tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1210257325614452272024-03-05T00:11:42.440-08:00LIVIN MY DREAM - MY OVERLAND JOURNEY"Tempat jatuh lagi dikenang, inikan pula DREAM yang ku tunggang...."ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.comBlogger164125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-78366496899024187622019-06-02T10:41:00.000-07:002019-06-02T10:41:10.897-07:00AFRICAN RIDE: PART 6 - SOUTH AFRICA - LESOTHO - SOUTH AFRICA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">23<sup>rd</sup> Dec
2019: Johannesburg (Rest Day)</span></b><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">My flight from Dubai arrived
Johannesburg as scheduled. Roger was already at the airport waiting for me. He
brought me back to his nice thatched roof home. I was introduced to her sweet
wife, Jen. I didnt plan to stay the night here actually, but since I was very
tired and Roger insisted that I should stay for at least one or two nights, I
decided to accept his invitation. I slept the whole morning until afternoon. I
woke up to find the house empty as Roger and Jen went for their Christmas
shopping. They came back soon after. We talked about my journey and many other
things. My bike which was already serviced and washed (thank you!!!) was taken
back home by Roger. That night, Jen made a very delicious halal chicken and
pumpkin roast to be eaten with rice. She also showed me her crafts which she
made herself. She’s so talented.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">24<sup>th </sup>–
25<sup>th</sup> Dec 2019: Johannesburg – Potchefstroom (150 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Not a single soul failed to question me
why am I going to Potch? Its not listed in the travel attraction list at all.
Well, the reason is because Grant Johnson, the Horizons Unlimited pioneer whom
I met in Indonesia told me that one of HU member owned a game park here where
you can enjoy a game drive and see lots of wildlife, and from Grant’s
recommendation, I could pitch my tent at the premise for free. Since I had not
seen any zebra as yet, this place is my last chance before I made my way back
to Cape Town.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I said goodbye and many thanks to my
lovely hosts, Roger and Jen with a promise to visit (and cook biryani rice for
them) the next time I come. The ride from Joburg was accompanied by some head
and side wind which was disturbing. Two km before reaching the game park was
gravel corrugated road and slightly climbing. While riding the offroad, I saw
ostriches and a group of oryx which made me screamed with joy.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I didnt expect much when I arrived at
Elgro River Lodge. In my mind, its going to be free camping and thats it.
However to my surprise, Kobus, the owner (thru his staff, as he was away for
Christmas) gave me a very nice riverfront glass wall chalet. FOC. I repeat,
FOC. A dorm bed in RSA’s hostel will cost you USD20, so how much do you think a
nice riverfront glass wall chalet will cost you? I really cant believe my luck.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After resting and cooking, I checked
out the lodge. It had a small outdoor swimming pool and a bar. The surrounding
was well kept and beautiful. I enjoyed the sunset by the beautiful Vaal River
when my eyes caught someone fishing not very far away from me.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I decided to greet him. Pete Goosen is
a very nice and friendly guy. He’s Kobus’ friend and always came here for
fishing. He said that he once caught a 35kg catfish at this river. His farm was
about 4 km from Elgro Lodge. When I told him that I havent managed to see zebra
as yet, he offered me a game drive at his farm tomorrow. An offer which I
couldnt say no. We talked while viewing the beautiful sunset by the river for
about an hour before I had to excuse myself due to mossies.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The next day, Pete came to fetch me at
8 am. We drove to his farm. He showed me his amazing trophy room. Then he drove
me around his huge farm. We saw lots of animals - impalas, different types of
buffalos, different type of antelopes, giraffes and of course zebras. The
zebras were so damn cute. I was very excited and screamed like a little kid.
For the first time, I managed to get as near as 50 meters to giraffes. They
were beautiful creatures. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpJIYHwvG5O4WasaPpkj_0A6cl7Ty91VPhB6BaqwrNEN3f4z4PYaZQ22Bh1TQnycCa7YFUjVTkWS74i3inVBQwOI35gC5Ku6Q904cHSym5Y3X_9eZxQtGZo4znkjopOkCNc_EPqp1bMo/s1600/P1210245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpJIYHwvG5O4WasaPpkj_0A6cl7Ty91VPhB6BaqwrNEN3f4z4PYaZQ22Bh1TQnycCa7YFUjVTkWS74i3inVBQwOI35gC5Ku6Q904cHSym5Y3X_9eZxQtGZo4znkjopOkCNc_EPqp1bMo/s640/P1210245.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you count the giraffes?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Pete told me that there are leopards on
his farm and he was once attacked. Wow, thats scary. Then, Pete drove me to a
bridge which was his favourite bird watching spot. We managed to see some birds
here.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After that, we visited Pete’s friend
who had 4 beautiful dogs. Thanks Pete for making my day.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">LESOTHO<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">26<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Potchefstroom – Bethlehem – Maseru (R501 – R721 – R26 – 8 – A2, 454 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I made an early start this morning. The
20 km offroad on R501 was a combination of dirt and gravels. Certain part was
very corrugated. I almost dropped my bike once when having to ascend on this
kind of road. Luckily I managed to control my bike. I saw some wildlife and
again, I saw zebras which brightened up my day.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The first half of my ride today was
very nice as I got a tailwind. The road was deserted and the view after
Bethlehem was awesome with lots of mountains and green views. However, I got
a side wind after that and it was pretty stressful.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I arrived at Maseru Bridge border and
exited South Africa without any problem. </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then I entered the 6th country in my
African Ride, Lesotho. It was a very easy border. I only need to stamp my
passport and pay the road fund, R40 (approx RM10) and thats it. No need to do
customs declaration for my bike here.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I met a local biker at the border (but
he was driving at that time). We chatted for a while and he bought me water.
Then I rode to Maseru, the capital city of Lesotho. It was only a small town
actually. But the funny thing was, I saw Lim Kok Wing’s advertisement board
here.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I missed the turn to Maseru Backpackers
Hostel which was located just next to the beautiful Maseru Lake and had to turn
back. The entrance to the hostel was pretty steep gravel track but I made it
alright. I stayed one night here (R180). The afternoon was spent relaxing by
the lake and chatting with an advrider from Germany.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA FOR THE 3<sup>RD</sup> TIME<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">27<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Maseru – Bloemfontein – Beaufort West (A2 – N8 – N1, 700 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Summer is the windiest month in the
African region, especially in South Africa. Riding a bike as mine, its not
light enough for easy handling when riding on offroad, and its not heavy enough
to fight with the wind. Due to this, I faced a challenging ride as I made my
way south today. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I made an early start at 5.20am as
today’s distance was huge and since the wind will normally be more fierce
especially in the afternoon. Border crossing was very fast as there was no
other people except the officers. I got a tailwind for the first 400 km until
Colesberg.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHlZzuPqAcQ-i2TmCDotNcpKRvwX0H7wqIwwMSTEFd-HY1aqanXiqDqAtwdJsHcB1Cu951tEHg_ebuU4dq_xQJWzsNJ4Zg-7Gt-41trGIzGpTdIxvzrEFN_RSlskzWL-187SNAWEjhUc/s1600/IMG_20181226_104527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1494" data-original-width="1600" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHlZzuPqAcQ-i2TmCDotNcpKRvwX0H7wqIwwMSTEFd-HY1aqanXiqDqAtwdJsHcB1Cu951tEHg_ebuU4dq_xQJWzsNJ4Zg-7Gt-41trGIzGpTdIxvzrEFN_RSlskzWL-187SNAWEjhUc/s400/IMG_20181226_104527.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A funny landmark which captured my eyes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">However for the remaining 300 km, I had
to struggle with crazy head and side wind. At times, I felt as if the wheels of
my bike didnt touch the ground anymore. Its not the scariest wind that I had
encountered, but its disturbing and I hated it. I lost count how many times I
screamed when I felt that my bike was already out of control. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Up ahead, I saw a cloud of dust being
blown from the left to the right side of the road. I knew that a storm was
passing by. So I stopped at a petrol station near Hanover for shelter and
waited for the storm to pass.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After 1 hour, the wind lessened a
little bit and I continued. The wind picked up strength once again while I’m
riding, and God knew how I struggled to keep my bike upright. I can only ride
with the 3<sup>rd</sup> gear, and could only manage the speed of 60 – 70 kmh.
It was a very exhausting ride that I no longer could enjoy the orange and
yellow mountains of the Northern Cape, even though the view was stunning.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Finally, I made it to Beaufort West
after riding more than 11 hours, which 6 hours of it were spent fighting with
the wind. Then I rode to an accommodation which I had booked earlier. It was
quite difficult to find the house and I had to ask passers-by. When I found the
house, no one responded to the doorbell. The wind was blowing fine sands into
my eyes and it was very annoying. Especially because I’m dead tired and
desperately need to rest. I had to ask the neighbour for help. Luckily the
neighbour knew the owner and rang her. The owner came 10 minutes later. I felt
so relieved when I finally settled down in my comfy room with A/C.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">28<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Beaufort West – Gordons Bay (N1 – R43 – R45 – R321, 465 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Again, I made an early start to reduce
the wind impact on my ride today. The wind was still blowing fine sands which
were annoying. Todays ride was quite okay and the view was very beautiful. As a
matter of fact, among all the countries I rode in the South African region, to
me RSA is the most beautiful, followed by Namibia.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Here are some pics on the scenic N1
Highway, Hex River Pass & Theewaters Nature Reserve on R321. I really love
the vineyards, mountains and the blue waters. I stopped too many time for pics.
I just couldnt help it. Fortunately, the wind was not as disturbing as
yesterday.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I rode to Andy’s house (my agent) in
Gordon Bay. Andy was out riding, but his wife, Anne was at home. The wind was
blowing crazy again, but Anne said that this is normal at her place.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Anne took me out for sightseeing in her
car and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset at False Bay. </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">That night, Anne received a
message from Andy, saying that he fell off his bike when trying to avoid
colliding with a goat on the offroad. His bike was badly damaged. I felt so
sorry upon hearing this.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">29<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Gordons Bay – Cape Town (N2 – M7, 50 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">At 9 am, I said goodbye to Anne and
returned to Sam’s house in Cape Town. It was good to be back here again after riding
approximately 8000 km crossing 6 countries – RSA, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Zambia and Lesotho. Sam repeatedly told me how relieved he was that I had
returned, safe and sound.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">With that, the first phase of my
African Ride was completed.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Before I fly back to Msia on 31<sup>st</sup> Dec,
Sam and his family took me to a weekend flea market at Milnerton. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I managed to buy some souvenirs to take back
home. Thank you very much Sam and family for the kind hospitality.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">SUMMARY<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Below are some basic info about riding
in the 6 countries:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">REP OF SOUTH AFRICA:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Carnet required</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No entry fee for self and bike</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Vehicle insurance not compulsory</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Bikes also hv to pay tolls on certain
highways</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">- Currency is Rand which is widely
accepted in Namibia & Lesotho.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">REP OF NAMIBIA:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Carnet not required</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No entry fee for self</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Road fund for bike NAD188</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No need to do customs declaration for
bike</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">- Currency is Namibian Dollar<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">BOTSWANA:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Carnet not required</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No entry fee for self</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Road fund for bike P110 (per entry),
but I had an unpleasant experience and had to pay more.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Bike insurance P50</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">- Currency is Botswana Pula<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">ZIMBABWE:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Entry fee for bike & insurance
USD31</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">- USD is widely accepted<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">ZAMBIA:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Carnet required</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Payments for Zambia: Carbon Tax - 70
Kwacha, Road Fund - US$ 20, Toll - 20 Kwacha, Insurance - 103 Kwacha (minimum)</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">- Currency is Kwacha<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">LESOTHO:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Carnet not required</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No entry fee for self</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Road fund for bike R40</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- No need to do customs declaration for
bike</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- RSA Rand is widely accepted</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">RSA sells the priciest fuel, approx R15
– R17 per liter. The cheapest fuel was sold in Lesotho, R12. you can find lots
of petrol stations in RSA, but a lot lesser in other countries. So, always
check if theres any petrol station in your route, or bring spare fuel.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Accommodation is pricey. As a matter of
fact, everything is pricey at this part of the world, especially RSA. The more
popular the attraction is, the pricier it gets. Camping @ lodge fee is
about USD10 - USD15 per person. So if there are two of you, you must pay double
even though you shared the same tent. Dorm rate starts from USD15 per person.
Only for a pre-booked private room on Air BnB or booking.com, the price starts
from USD25 per room (not per person).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Border crossing in Africa depends on
your luck. If you meet a good officer, good for you, but if not, you need to
have patience and some humour to tackle them. Most of them are poorly paid so
they see tourists as a source to earn extra income. Same goes to the police.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">OTHER TIPS:</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- There are lots of speed camera in
RSA, so watch your speed.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Policemen in Botswana are very
strict.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Always stop at the STOP sign even
though you didnt see anyone there.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Potholes in certain road in Botswana.
Lots of animal crossing as well, so watch out!!!</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Drunk driving is common.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Lots of checkpoints especially when
you are entering town @ province.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">- Lots of unmarked speed bumps.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">OVERALL</span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Its a good experience riding in Africa even though there are slight
hiccups. So, am I done riding here? NO. My bike stays in Cape Town. I will
return later to continue exploring this unique continent.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">My utmost thanks to all my sponsors,
Sam & family and Roger Davidson and DMD for all the help, Uwe for the route
advice, Andy for my bike's shipping & clearance, Anwar Omar and Gavin in
Cape Town and Msian Embassies in Pretoria and Namibia for the support. Till we meet again :)</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<br /></div>
ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-42923798885029884192019-06-02T03:22:00.000-07:002019-06-02T03:22:26.242-07:00AFRICAN RIDE: PART 5 - EMIRATES TRAVELERS FESTIVAL 2018<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">19<sup>th</sup> –
22<sup>nd</sup> Dec 2019: Emirates Travelers Festival, Dubai</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Bookman Old Style", serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">This festival is my 5<sup>th</sup> international
event for 2018 after Overland Expo in the USA (May), Horizons Unlimited in
Indonesia (Sept), Givi 40<sup>th</sup> anniversary celebration and EICMA
Autoshow in Italy (Nov) and ZafigoX in Malaysia (Nov). I met many world
travelers from all around the globe, including Juvena, the Wandering Wasp whom
I host way back in 2015 when she first started her Singapore – Europe ride.
The uniqueness of this event was the mode of transportation used by the
travelers. Juvena and I represented adventure riders. Other speakers traveled
the world by bicycle, 4WDs, caravans, walking, hitchhiking, backpacking but the
most unique to me were Alvarro from Spain who traveled on his jet ski, Ahmad Al
Qashemi from Yemen who went around the world by riding his camel and Alessandro
from Italy who is a blind backpacker.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">During this event, we were taken for
culinary and cultural experience around Dubai. The local cuisine was very very
tasty. I just cant get enough of the lamb biryani. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I also managed to meet my
ex-student, Syafinaz who took me and Juve for a half day Dubai tour near
Dubai’s famous landmark, Burj Khalifa. There were lots of tourists here. She
also treated us lunch at a nice restaurant. Thank you Enaz for the treat.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">At the festival venue, each speaker had
their own corner where the visitors can come and talked to them about their
journey. I was met with not only local and international visitors but some
Malaysians who resided in Dubai as well. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I also need to entertain lots of local and international interviews. One of them was Las Vegas International Media. I was sooo tired but happy to introduce my country and to speak about Givi products as well.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I was given an hour for my presentation
which went very well. There were lots of emotion and ended with me in tears of
happiness. Why? Let it be a secret for the time being. If the organizer honour
their promises, its going to be my biggest wish fulfilled. After that, I was
surrounded by some of the audience, especially the local women, telling how
much they were inspired by my story.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">On my last day in Dubai, I managed to
meet my brother Wissam Al Jayousi. He was a RTW advrider and I met him twice
when he was in Msia. Wissam and his beautiful wife, Gorana, treated me and Juve
at a fancy Lebanese restaurant and later brought us back to his big beautiful
home. Thank you both of you for the hospitality.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I also wished to thank the Emirates
Travelers Festival committee for having me here, especially Mr. Awad, Madam
Najwa and Mr. Hasan.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-38293594291649082022019-06-01T23:24:00.000-07:002019-06-01T23:24:10.077-07:00AFRICAN RIDE: PART 4 - BACK INTO BOTSWANA & SOUTH AFRICA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">14<sup>th</sup> –
15<sup>th</sup> Dec 2019: Victoria Falls – Kasane - Francistown (Kazungula
Road – A33, 562 km)</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Its a looonggg ride today, hence I
started at 6.15am. I rode the same Kazungula Rd to the border. I saw some
giraffes and deers, but as usual, they were very fast. Within seconds, they disappeared
inside the forest. There was not many people at the border as its still early.
Border crossing for both sides was easy and I’m done in 20 mins. Then I rode 5 km
on offroad to Kasane. I refuel here first and after that, I shoot all the way
to Nata. It was crazily hot and I was soooo tired.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">After refueling at Nata, the road
deteriorates with lots of potholes on and off for about 20 km. There were some
road works here as well. I stopped for a quick lunch at a picnic area and
continued riding. I got tired pretty easily due to the heat but I cant rest too
often, else I couldnt make it to my destination.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">For the first time since my African
Ride, today I managed to see wild elephants. Not once but three times!!! The
first time, I spotted the elephant from about 150 meters away. The elephant was
enjoying the green leaves just by the roadside. I waited for 15 mins but theres
no sign that the elephant will leave the place. The road was as usual,
deserted. When I finally saw a car approaching, I hailed it and told the driver
that I need some kind of security by riding side by side with the car. The
driver agreed. This was my first experience riding on a road shared with an
elephant.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The second time, I saw the elephant
eating grass about 80 meters from the road. I stopped my bike, switched off the
engine and observed the animal for about 10 minutes. Elephants are territorial
animals. They wont attack you if you keep a safe distance from them.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I was caught off guard for the third
time. I didnt notice the elephant at all as the side of the road was filled
with tall bushes. It was only when I arrived, I saw it – only about 15 meters
from me. It was BIG, STRONG AND NOT FRIENDLY AT ALL!!! This is my first time to
encounter a wild elephant this close. I was hesitating, should I stop my bike
or not? Its an opportunity cum danger. When I saw the elephant started to shake
his head and ears, I knew very well that the elephant was ready to charge me.
So I pressed the throttle and rode as fast as my bike could take me.
Phewwww..... <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">After riding for about 10 hours, I
reached Francistown and rode straight to my host’s house. As most houses at a
medium level residence, this house was equipped with an electric fence to avoid
theft, which was a serious problem in African neighbourhood. Veronique was expecting
me. She had two lovely kids, a girl and a boy. I was so so tired and she let me
rest in the guest room.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I fall asleep soon after. I woke up to
find the house empty and it was already 7pm. Veronique, or her nickname, Nikki,
came back shortly. She bought a Nandos chicken sandwich for me and assured me
that all Nandos in the whole of Africa used halal chicken/meat. She knew
because she was a chicken and meat distributor in Francistown. We chatted while
eating. She’s a very friendly and nice host and baked delicious fruit cake for
weddings.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The next day, Nikki brought me to the
town center because my mobile phone was not functioning ever since I charged
the phone at the hostel in Victoria Falls. I suspected that the voltage at the
hostel was higher than what my phone could take, hence it was overheated and
couldnt be switched on. I was lucky that Nikki knew a place and I got it
repaired for 120 Pula only. After that, we went for grocery shopping as I had
promised to cook chicken curry for her family. Nikki showed me halal chicken at
the frozen section of the supermarket which clearly had a halal logo on the
packaging. Back home, I cooked for them and I’m glad that the whole family
loved my chicken curry :)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">16<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Francistown – Gaborone (A1, 434 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I made a move at 7.15am after saying
goodbye to Nikki and her son, Abbas. I rode south to the capital city of
Botswana. There were lots of cow carcass which I could see. I supposed its due
to the heat. At times, I need to ride on offroad when there was road work going
on. There were lots of roadblocks as well. At one time, I was scolded by the
police because I didnt stop at the exact STOP sign, but I followed the car in
front of me at a slow pace. The police said that I must stop at the STOP sign
and only move when he signaled me to move. Auwww....okay, sorry.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After being on the road for nearly 3
weeks now, I could say that riding in southern African countries is easy.
The main road or highway is generally paved, but the one branched out from the
main road is normally unpaved. It could be dirt, gravels or sands. Following
the speed limit is a must. Not only because it was controlled by radar, but
because animals also shared the road and there are lots of unmarked speed
bumps. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">As for driving attitude, RSA topped the
list as the most behaved drivers. The least behaved is Botswana as they loved
to overtake just a few inches apart from you.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Roadblocks are plenty. The culture here
is always to ask “how are you?” So before the police ask, make sure you ask him
/ her first. Its a sign of respect and they will feel appreciated. The frequently
asked questions from the police will be "where are u going today?", "where
are u coming from today?" After that, they will ask you where you are from
and surprised to know that you came as far as Msia, because to them, a 300 km
journey on a motorbike is impossible. HAHAHA...<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Good and bad police are everywhere on
earth. So, its up to your creativity to tackle them. A good policeman is very
proud of his uniform, so do not lie if he asked you as he will be very pissed
off if he caught you lying. The problem for us is how to determine a good or a
bad police?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I passed another Tropic of Capricorn
sign on my way to the capital city. This is the third TOC sign for me, after
Chile and Namibia.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">It took me 6 hours to reach Gaborone as
the speed limit reduced frequently which slowed me down by lots even though I
got a tailwind all the way today. My accommodation today is at a lady biker’s
place which I found in Air BnB. Her name is Tapiwa and she rode a Honda Shadow.
We had a very nice chat about riding. I also loved the room which she
discounted for me. However, it was blackout that night until past midnight.
Urghhhh!!! When I finally get an A/C room on a very hot day, it blackout. It
was so damn hot!!!</span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">BACK INTO SOUTH AFRICA<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">17<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Gaborone – Tlokweng/Kopfentein - Pretoria (R49 - 4, 380 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I said goodbye to Tapi and rode to the
border. It was the usual morning rushed hour so there were lots of traffic on
the road. It took me 1 hour to reach the border even though the distance was
only 33 km. Before crossing the border, I changed my remaining Pula to SA Rand
at a money changer. I also refueled here as fuel in RSA is more expensive. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then I walked to the border office.
There were 3 buses full of athletes already ahead of me and the cue was very
long. I waited patiently until one guy whom I assumed was one of the team’s
officer told me to jump the cue and went straight to the front. He said that
they were from Lesotho and just done with a sporting event and now returning
back to their country. I did as told and managed to save some time. Then I went
back to my bike and was greeted by Botswanan traffic policemen. They were
thrilled to know that I’m riding solo. We chatted for a while and had some pics
together.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Later, I rode to the South African
side. Some of the Lesotho athletes were already there, waiting at the door
which was blocked by a barrier. I waited together with them. While waiting,
more athletes arrived. A minute later, the immi officer let us in. The athletes
didnt give me any chance nor space to cue, even though they knew that I was
there before the barrier was lifted. Since none of their officers were there, I
had to double the line. Its unfair for me to go to the end of the looong line.
When I shoved my passport to the officer in charge, and the girl next to me
shoved hers as well, the officer asked who should be first? The girl accused
that I didnt line up. I defended myself. In the end, the girl and her friends
were scolded by the officer because they didnt show any respect to me who was
much older than them. Moreover, even though they stamped their passport, they
still need to wait until the whole team stamped theirs, then only the buses
could make a move. So whats their point of not letting me have my passport
stamped first?</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Since I’m entering RSA again, I need to
stamp my carnet at the customs. However, the customs officer at this border was
new to this, and he didnt know what to do. I had to teach him and this took
some time. In total, I wasted more than 1 hour for this border crossing.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I was already behind schedule. By
right, I should arrive Pretoria around 12 pm as the High Comm of Msia is
expecting me. There’re 355 km more to ride. I rode as fast as the speed limit
allowed me. I had to pay toll 3 times, summing up to R110 in total. I was very
tired as I didnt stop at all for rest. My fuel was getting low, but I didnt
want to stop as refueling will take more time. I whispered a silent prayer
hoping that the fuel could last until I reached Pretoria. By right, it could,
but I need to slow down. The bike was tested way back in 2016 when it managed
450 km when I was crossing the Atacama Desert in Chile.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Finally, I made it to the Ambassador’s
residence at 1.30pm with the fuel light blinking. H.E. Mohamad Nizan Mohamad,
his wife Madam Ros and all the Msian embassy, defense and MATRADE staff were
already there with their family. I was exhausted, but very thrilled. I didnt
expect to receive such a warm welcome. Doa was recited by Mr. Dzulazhar, then
the Ambassador gave his speech and followed by my own speech. After a photo session
filled with laughter, I was taken to the dining room where I was feasted with
delicious Msian food. All of them were so kind to me. The caring Ambassador
insisted that I stayed at the residence which I accepted happily.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After resting for a while, I went
downstairs as I had promised to show them my GDR video. All the people who were
here this afternoon were still here, so it was like watching a movie at the
cinema. After the show was done, all of them clapped and congratulated me. I
was so touched with the hospitality.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">18<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Pretoria – Johannesburg (N1, 60 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I felt so very lazy to get up from the
very comfy bed, but I had a flight to catch today. Why is that so? Because
today I am flying to Dubai. YEAYYY!!! Actually, while waiting for my bike to
arrive Cape Town about 3 weeks ago, I received an email from the secretariat of
the crown prince of Dubai, inviting me to be one of the speakers for Emirates
Travelers Festival, 2018. I was very thrilled. This was an offer not to be missed.
This was also the reason why I had to rush my ride and rode many kilometers
every day with only 3 rest days to enable me to attend this event.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The same big family had arrived at the
residence when I got down to the dining hall. Each of them brought something
from home for breakfast. Again, we had a delicious Malaysian style breakfast
with nasi lemak and delicacies. I really didnt know how to thank all these
lovely people for their kindness.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Ambassador Nizan then flagged me off
officially. Thank you very much Ambassador, Madam Ros, Mr. Dzulazhar and wifey
Madam Ila, Mr. Azhar, Col. Ishak, Sargeant, Mr. Hairi, Madam Yus, Madam Mas and
Madam Sal for all the effort and making my visit here so memorable.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I rode slowly to Johannesburg. While on
the way, I saw two ostriches ran inside a fenced field about 10 meters away
from me. It was fun watching them. I followed their pace, just to know whats
their running speed. Guess what? They ran at 60 kmh. Too bad I didnt turn on my
Gopro cam as I thought its just a short ride today, so I didnt manage to
capture ‘our race.’</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I arrived Yamaha Linex, as instructed
by Roger Davidson, Givi importer in South Africa. I first met Roger during Givi
40<sup>th</sup> anniversary celebration in Iseo, Italy. He asked me to
contact him after knowing that I’m going to ride in South Africa. Roger had
arrived before me, and I was introduced to his partner, Danny. My bike was left
here for oil change and service. Roger then drove me to the airport which was
40 km away. He promised to fetch me after I’m back from Dubai. That was very
kind of him.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I said thank you to Roger and checked
in for my flight with Emirates. The 8 hours flight was not so pleasant as I was
seated with noisy people. I didnt manage to get any sleep at all. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-14829402566167355882019-06-01T22:54:00.002-07:002019-06-01T22:54:31.158-07:00AFRICAN RIDE: PART 3 - BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE & ZAMBIA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">12<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Katima Mulilo – Ngoma Bridge – Kasane (B8 – A33, 130 km)</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I left the hostel at 8am. The security
and his friend were nowhere in sight. I rode to Ngoma Bridge border post. The
distance was 70 km. Exiting Namibia was very fast & easy. 10 mins and I'm
done. Entering Botswana didnt take long too, about 20mins as Ngoma Bridge is a
very quiet border. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">However, I was pissed off with the female customs officer
who charged me way too much to bring my bike into Botswana. From my reading, I
knew that I need to pay 110 Pula (Botswanan currency) + 50 Pula (insurance) for
a double entry, which equals to USD17. But to my surprise, I was charged way
too much by the officer. Since I knew how much is the correct fee, I argued
politely with her, but she told me that the cheaper fee is only for African
bikes, and not other country's bike. She sternly showed me the “take it or leave
it” attitude. I was very disappointed but I had no choice. This is Africa. Its
not uncommon of such a thing to happen in this part of the world.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">She insisted that I pay in Pula but I
only had USD with me at that time. She then gave me a very poor conversion
rate which ended up I had to pay USD71 in total. Can you believe that? From
USD17 to USD71!!!</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Haihhh....Here, you have to expect the
unexpected. What other choice do I have? The other nearest border is almost
1400km away. So, be patience and move on. The most important thing was I made
it into the 3<sup>rd</sup> country in my African ride.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I continued riding on a very deserted
road for another 60 km to Kasane. I checked in at Thebe Safari Lodge, 125 Pula
for tenting. FYI, the price in all the places where I stayed in Africa was
counted per head, not per tent or per camp spot or per room.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">After that, I rode to the town center
to find a bank to change money. I had to wait almost one hour before I got my
change. Then, I refueled my bike at a petrol station. I asked the pump attendant
where can I find a cheaper price for a boat tour and he advised me to go to
Chobe Safari Lodge. On my way to this place, I saw tour offices by the roadside
and decided to check it out. I was very lucky to get a tour for 260 Pula, and
it will start in 30 mins time. Just enough time for me to eat my packed lunch.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">People come to Kasane to experience its safari and the infamous cruise along Chobe River. This town is situated in Chobe National
Park and Kasane is the place where you can see water and land wildlife. The
boat tour which I took was amazing. I was the only Asian on board. There were
two other westerners, whilst the rest were local tourists. The boat was full by
the time I was picked up, so the shaded seat was already taken. I had no
choice but to sit at the frontest most seat without shade. It was a very hot
day. Since I forgot to bring drinking water, I felt almost dehydrated. However,
I managed to see some crocs, hippos, African water buffaloes, birds, baboons,
deers and lots of antelopes during the 3 hours tour. The closest the boat get
to a croc lazing on the grass was about 2 meters. It was really fun except that
I felt a bit frustrated as I didnt see any elephant. I was told that you can
see hundreds of elephants in this river, but I wonder where did the elephants
go on that day?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The sun was setting by the time I
reached my campsite. I hurriedly pitched my tent, prayed and had a really delicious
Sharifah Foods Gam Biryani for dinner. Two thumbs up for this brand of instant
food. No more Brahims for me from now on. This brand was sold at selected
supermarkets or you may contact my friend, @sfwithsuzaila on Instagram.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I slept very well in the comfort of my
Eiger air pillow and sleeping bag. I loved them so much.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></b>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">13<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Kasane – Victoria Falls (A33 – Kazungula Road, 85 km)</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I started a bit late as its going to be
a short ride today. I rode about 11 km to Kazungula which is a very small town
bordering Botswana with Zimbabwe and Zambia. Most overlanders will opt for the
ferry ride from this border into Zambia, but its costly and not worth it if you
only spend little time in the country. So I chose to enter ZIM instead. A
decision which many against and advised me not to, due to corrupt authorities.
Well, if you dont try, how would you know hows your luck going to be, right?</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The road to Kazungula border was under
construction, so it was potholes and sandy for approx 5 km.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Exiting Botswana was easy, so as
entering ZIM. The ZIM immi officer is a biker, so he was happy to see a female
advrider. I had to entertain his lots of questions until I became the center of
attraction that even the tourists at the border took pics with me. It was a
proud moment to tell all of them that I am from Malaysia :)</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">To bring my bike into ZIM, I had to pay
USD31 for road fund and insurance which was exactly as my internet research
said. (Zambia entry fee will be pricier). Carnet was not needed. Both borders
were done in about 30 minutes only. No hassle at all. It was a very
straightforward procedure which proved that all the nightmares crossing this
border might be a thing of the past.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then it was a quiet ride to Victoria
Falls town. Its just me, and the jungle dwellers. Again, I noticed some
giraffes, but only after the ‘trees’ moving. HAHAHA. The giraffes disguised
very well in the trees. They were very fast too and I didnt get the chance to
take any pic.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw288w5tl9fCyzvy1aQg7NpkDsJelgiesKdqfHew9_tVXsJXSAcnxMssFrKlOlc62oZXDEEyi8YcOOJMgT4oM9IV7B3Gyz5E32YDNM_tiubwFmPrscOloAe8zdYntdxwcan2NFZiT86uw/s1600/72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1590" data-original-width="1600" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw288w5tl9fCyzvy1aQg7NpkDsJelgiesKdqfHew9_tVXsJXSAcnxMssFrKlOlc62oZXDEEyi8YcOOJMgT4oM9IV7B3Gyz5E32YDNM_tiubwFmPrscOloAe8zdYntdxwcan2NFZiT86uw/s400/72.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Upon arriving Victoria Falls town, I
headed to Shoestring Backpackers which I had booked earlier. Its wise to book
your accommodation beforehand since Victoria Falls is a very popular
tourist spot. The fee for a 4 bedded dorm is USD15 p/p. At 3 pm, I rode to Zim
– Zambia border. I parked my bike at the parking lot and stamped out my
passport. Then I walked 2 km into Zambia. I stopped by at the famous Victoria
Falls bridge to witness the falls. Only a bit of it could be seen from here.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After stamping my passport at the
Zambia side, I went to the ticket office and purchased the ticket to enter the
world heritage site. I was surprised to learn that the ticket was only USD20,
not USD30 as my internet research had said. But very soon afterward, I knew why
was that so.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5iYdlPylK5JgkJqQCHR8OyDlsi51XyTHvVZaw-NpFnCZ-Maa3wlAfJ3kBre4TqWhYM5s1PdmU3gTaVjJDHWlFhyeyOGcDSa0j81cKsFDSH4lL1cd3wjafiZL-2f1zDyAh3rVsVuSvT0/s1600/74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5iYdlPylK5JgkJqQCHR8OyDlsi51XyTHvVZaw-NpFnCZ-Maa3wlAfJ3kBre4TqWhYM5s1PdmU3gTaVjJDHWlFhyeyOGcDSa0j81cKsFDSH4lL1cd3wjafiZL-2f1zDyAh3rVsVuSvT0/s400/74.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I walked into the park and saw only a tiny
fall. Where was the supposedly half a million-liter gushing water per minute?
Where was the mist and rainbow as it should be? Nothing. Then only I found out
that I came on the wrong season. Its dry season now. No wonder the entrance fee
was only USD20. Haihhh... </span></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">A mind note, the best time to come here is April –
June.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">After spending about an hour at the
park, I walked the same way back into ZIM, being careful of the many aggressive
big baboons scattered around the area. It was a very hot day, hence I felt very
exhausted by the time I reached my hostel.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-85354757063170501572019-06-01T10:18:00.001-07:002019-06-01T10:18:31.712-07:00AFRICAN RIDE: PART 2 - NAMIBIA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: x-large; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black;">1<sup>st</sup> Dec
2019: Springbok – Vioolsdrift/Noordoewer – Rosh Pinah – Aus (N7 – C13, 462 km)</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was pretty cold when I made my way
to the RSA – Namibian border via N7 in the wee hours. The sun was rising and
its shine cast long shadows of me and GD on the deserted road but with very
awesome barren mountain view. The beautiful and dramatically geology change at
the last few km as I approached the border blew my mind away. I loved this
feeling. A feeling which I had longed for since my last long ride in New
Zealand a year ago. Its just me, my bike, the quiet road, and the beautiful
view...and nothing else matters...<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClK_7Xh3Lk6dSnsAsC7V0vF64KLwzFnnG6Yy2yIw0aeMoCHdIVz4dYGXD5JrVYa5Qz3kdOD75cRp8EamPrhBV-5kCqB5BJbANFM-BFovHfNiGKfP7ZKpaFDs9_YrICjuPGR_jx3HnMTo/s1600/16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClK_7Xh3Lk6dSnsAsC7V0vF64KLwzFnnG6Yy2yIw0aeMoCHdIVz4dYGXD5JrVYa5Qz3kdOD75cRp8EamPrhBV-5kCqB5BJbANFM-BFovHfNiGKfP7ZKpaFDs9_YrICjuPGR_jx3HnMTo/s400/16.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I approached a yellow building upon
reaching the border. After parking GD at the parking lot, I went to counter 1
(immigration) to stamp my passport. Then I was ushered to counter 3 (police) to
write my details in a log book. Next was counter 2 (customs) to exit stamp my
carnet. I checked my carnet carefully to make sure that all details were
written correctly and signed. This is very important as any unsigned section
will result in a loss of $$ deposit. All the counters (1, 2 and 3) were in the
same building. 15 mins here and I’m done. Its very easy and the officers were
friendly.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWDVRvxmPyqj1SOsqBS3_gA-S0Yl9RivJE8osTImjl3mupjI3HQRP8mfFDg6aa9dMgnuZZBy7mIedZK3ezelxdr3_6fMnmk2KSh2JLPX3GDjHBXUQCAqhkycSPCB_riwP-rtV_UgeTks/s1600/17.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWDVRvxmPyqj1SOsqBS3_gA-S0Yl9RivJE8osTImjl3mupjI3HQRP8mfFDg6aa9dMgnuZZBy7mIedZK3ezelxdr3_6fMnmk2KSh2JLPX3GDjHBXUQCAqhkycSPCB_riwP-rtV_UgeTks/s400/17.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Then I get on my bike and crossed the
bridge. The view was beautiful and I couldnt help but to stop for pics.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjqRDgF8buhQc9ivX9JU4PI9V6_S0yQspDaqoFG4lAj0i5U4ObGdxcbt4ORnsqxlFgccI5g5L_h8F5qH5HI55AhIAZfPBsHiZsy7uFyZMzVifTj77gZ5ujZmnJuICvBM52PIikdoNA_A/s1600/18.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjqRDgF8buhQc9ivX9JU4PI9V6_S0yQspDaqoFG4lAj0i5U4ObGdxcbt4ORnsqxlFgccI5g5L_h8F5qH5HI55AhIAZfPBsHiZsy7uFyZMzVifTj77gZ5ujZmnJuICvBM52PIikdoNA_A/s400/18.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was fooled by the building right
after the bridge, thinking that it was the immigration and customs office, but
its not. The office was actually 800 m from the bridge. I saw the ‘Welcome to
Rep Of Namibia’ signboard and again stop for pics.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFDlAkSt8qTEESjoBELfamCcon_E1wYqdlQ60ndhEaU9bXmlKyu0bur5rB589n4nHpq_GLdIHRXH7it0hM7kmj8YbRdxOOYRCesdnzg4rHkHmoFOOg1kcx8aH2Epkxl0jzTiJSUW1qYI/s1600/19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1402" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFDlAkSt8qTEESjoBELfamCcon_E1wYqdlQ60ndhEaU9bXmlKyu0bur5rB589n4nHpq_GLdIHRXH7it0hM7kmj8YbRdxOOYRCesdnzg4rHkHmoFOOg1kcx8aH2Epkxl0jzTiJSUW1qYI/s400/19.jpg" width="350" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">There were quite many people at the Namibian
border post. As in RSA, the officers here were friendly too. I need to fill up
an arrival form, stamped my passport, then go to the counter to pay road fund.
The fee for motorbike is NAD188. I must fill up the road fund form first, then
pay the money, and thats it. I didnt have to do customs declaration for my
vehicle at all. Carnet was not needed as well. 30 mins here and I’m done.
However, I lingered a while as I was being interviewed by the many admirers
here (including the officers) who were amazed to see a woman riding solo.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I rode for another 2 km and reached
Engen fuel station. Fuel was sold at $14.55 (approximately USD1), slightly
cheaper than in RSA. I purchased a Namibian sim card for NAD10 + NAD40 (1 gig
data) for 1-week usage. English is Namibian official language besides Afrikaans
(same as RSA), so communication was easy.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As suggested by Uwe, I took C13 route
after the fuel station. The view of the barren mountains along the way to
Aussenker was very nice. At times, I felt as if I was in Chile. Despite the
barren land, there were green vineyard fields which I saw. Workers, loaded at
the back of a lorry were transported from their village to the field. Their
houses at the village were mainly made from zinc and sticks tied together, and
very small.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paved road finished very soon and
was replaced by dirt road along beautiful Orange (but blue) River. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was indeed a breathtaking ride on C13. 100 km on dirt (sometimes corrugated) and certain stretches on gravels which I can do 60 - 80kmh.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I just can't get enough of this dirt road. It was sooo beautiful. I took</span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> 2 hours to complete this stretch due to stopping too many time for pics.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was another hot day and I almost passed out by the time I reached Rosh Pinah. Hence, I took 45 minutes at a fuel station to rest. Then I continued for another 170 km on paved and had to fight the side wind. It was a very exhausting ride. Luckily I managed to see some big ostriches who put a smile on my face. Their running act was so funny. I also saw wild horses and oryx, but all were too shy to pose for my cam.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In total, I rode 462 km from Springbok
to Aus in 11 hours under the blazing heat and not so friendly wind. I was dead
tired by the time I reached my destination. I had no more energy to pitch my
tent so I had to opt for a single A/C room at Namib Garage, NAD350 (after
bargaining).<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">2<sup>nd</sup> Dec
2019: Aus – Keetmanshoop – Mariental – Windhoek (B1, 750km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I felt lazy to ride today, but I had to
force myself to get up from the bed. I hit the road at 8am and very soon, I
turned left on C13. The plan is to go to Sesriem. I rode slowly on the sandy
road while watching ostriches. After 3 km, the ride became tough as there were
lots of sand ridges. I didnt have the skill to ride on soft sands like this. When
the sands became thicker, I had to tiptoe to make sure that I didnt drop my
bike. After 1 hour of super slow riding, I only managed to cover 20km. It was
9am and the temperature was already 40’C!!!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I began to boil underneath my riding
gear. There was no shelter and all around me were sands. The road was so so
deserted. For the past hour, I didnt meet a single soul as yet. It is still a
looongg looongg way to Sesriem. The heat at 9 am was already killing me. I
wonder how hot it would be at noon? To make matters worse, there were lots of
annoying insects (flies?) buzzing around me. Urghhh!!!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAR9CJD6WTsy4vMoCIrAROXXHXuuMLPDtYCN4ppYZDQk_R36AAmdpGOVoNbzhDLu9BpR3fi4vyl3c1P3eKNOtgFG_kEOShBN_XrgID7Et9j8HSYqIIKg5jHmVCMWmWMh3dSpBnkoiVUCI/s1600/35.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAR9CJD6WTsy4vMoCIrAROXXHXuuMLPDtYCN4ppYZDQk_R36AAmdpGOVoNbzhDLu9BpR3fi4vyl3c1P3eKNOtgFG_kEOShBN_XrgID7Et9j8HSYqIIKg5jHmVCMWmWMh3dSpBnkoiVUCI/s640/35.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I stopped my bike and reconsider the
idea of going to Sesriem. Uwe had told me that the dirt road in Namibia could
be good or bad, depending on when the last time it was scrapped. Obviously, this
road had not been scrape for quite some time. The sun was getting hotter and I
was sweating profusely. I started to feel dizzy and short of breath. I knew
very well the meaning of these symptoms. The memory of getting hit by heat
stroke and fainted when I was riding in Tajikistan way back in 2013 was still fresh in
my mind. I need to make a fast decision now.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGCyKFU6oLnJa4TJkHwFSHHmPpPjC86SDiuuDiMYLXR1zp1tKM66RNRsLFP80Qgan75cUuva4T4CrcKgnY7deyxD8GuyoG9S1MO1XnQNS_j6WEo4AL9recX0VErBkyMnq1doiVZytez4/s1600/37.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGCyKFU6oLnJa4TJkHwFSHHmPpPjC86SDiuuDiMYLXR1zp1tKM66RNRsLFP80Qgan75cUuva4T4CrcKgnY7deyxD8GuyoG9S1MO1XnQNS_j6WEo4AL9recX0VErBkyMnq1doiVZytez4/s640/37.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Should I proceed? Or should I turn
back? Its not wise to take the risk under this heat in this deserted and
shelterless place. If the temperature is mild, I will surely brave the sands,
but with this temperature? Who is going to help me if I faint? I dont want to
dehydrate and die in this desert.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">In the end, I made up my mind and
turned back.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Another 20 km on the soft sands
resulted in 2 hours wasted since I started this morning. My new destination now
is Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. Its a long way to Windhoek, I wonder if
its doable? No choice, I had to try. Worst-case scenario, if I cant make it to
Windhoek, I’ll find a place to stay at one of the towns before it got dark.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paved road on B1 was in good
condition, but as usual, its very quiet. The view was filled with bushes, small
trees and beautiful sandy mountain. Some of the trees were very unique. So did
the boulders on a certain stretch of the road.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I refuel at Keetmanshop and continued
riding. The road quality dropped and theres no view to feast my eyes anymore.
It was a very boring ride. I only saw some wild horses on the sandy fields
once. Later in the afternoon, I started to feel some wind and decided to stop
for lunch at Mariental. I pulled over at a rest area. My butt was so sore and
my hands were numb after the long ride without taking a break at all. It was
difficult for me to get down and I almost dropped my bike due to exhaustion!!</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While enjoying my packed lunch of rice
and SF sambal, I saw a barefooted boy running towards me. He sat on the
opposite bench and looked at me with his sad eyes. I fully understood what he
meant, but I almost finished my food at that time. After a while, the boy
started to dig into the garbage bin. He found a bottle of unfinished Coke and
drank it. He continued digging and later found a milk box. He shook the almost
empty box and tore it to enable him to lick the remaining milk. I was
witnessing all this as if watching a drama shown on TV. How my heart fell for
this boy. Especially when he looked at me again and asked, “Mem, can you buy me
some food?”<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I really couldnt hold my tears anymore,
but I didnt want to cry in front of him. I hurriedly put on my helmet, opened
my top box, grabbed a packet of biscuit and some money and shoved it into the
boy’s hand. The boy ran quickly to another small kid, whom I believed his
brother. They shared the biscuit. I get on my bike, rode to the kids for a
quick photo and hurriedly left. Why did I leave so fast? Because this is
Africa. The good deed you did can put you in danger if bad people notice you
give money to the poor, as they will think that you are a rich person.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I continued riding with tears streaming
down my cheek recalling what I had just seen. I’m sure this wont be the first
and the last drama that I’m going to witness here in Africa.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was a struggle to reach Windhoek.
The wind, the long straight road, the heat...my lips were cracking all over and
felt very painful. However, I cant miss the opportunity to pose in front of
‘Tropic of Capricorn’ signboard which was situated approximately 110 km before
Windhoek. There are 10 TOC signs @ monuments in this world and this one is the
2<sup>nd</sup> TOC for me, after the first one in Antofagasta, Chile.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After that, it was a sprint to reach
Windhoek. The sun was coming down fast and I was racing like crazy on the hilly
road. Finally, I made it to Windhoek after 15 hours of riding. A new personal
record set. I was so so exhausted, only God knows. I rode straight to Chameleon
Backpackers which I had saved the location on my phone. Unfortunately, there
was no availability here. Not even a space to pitch my tent. I was so tired I felt
like crying. The owner suggested that I try my luck at Unite Backpackers, about
3 km away. It was already dark when I reached this hostel, but thank god, I
managed to get a bed here. NAD170 with breakfast, cheaper than camp fee at
Chameleon, and the best part, I didnt have to pitch my tent.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">3<sup>rd</sup> Dec
2019: Windhoek (Rest Day)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The moment I woke up, I straight away
recalled what had happened last night and hurriedly went out to check on my bike.
Last midnight, when I was about to retire to my room, I heard someone knocking
the kitchen’s window. There was this guy, claiming that he stayed at this
hostel but he couldnt enter as the front door was already locked. He asked me
to open the door for him so that he could enter. Hesitating, I asked him
for proof that he stayed here and he showed his room key. I opened the front
door and noticed that he had some friends (outsiders) with him, and the front
gate was wide open. As the guy was drunk, I reminded him to make sure he will
lock the front gate as my bike was parked at the porch. All of a sudden, the
guy was angry at me, cursing and accusing I only cared about my bike, and as if
he didnt care about other vehicles which were also parked there. Worried about
my safety, I retired to my room, but cant free my mind from thinking about my
bike. Fortunately, GD was still there this morning and untouched. What a
relief.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">While having my free complimentary
breakfast, I asked the guy whom I spoke to last night about the possibility to
visit Sesriem and Sossusvlei with him. Yesterday, he had been promoting his
service as a freelance driver and guide. He showed me pics in his phone of
travelers whom he had taken before. He also showed me reviews written by the
travelers about him. I was interested, but I didnt have enough money to pay
him. It was very expensive to get a private tour as such. The cheaper tour
organized by the local hostels in Windhoek didnt depart today. I was hoping
that someone will show up and can share the cost with me. The guy assured me
not to worry, someone will surely show up, he said.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After breakfast, I rode to the
Malaysian Embassy which was about 4 km from the hostel. I was greeted by Mr. Aki
whom I had notified earlier about my arrival. He ushered me to the Ambassador’s
room, HE Hishamuddin Ibrahim, who is a very friendly person. We talked for
about 30 minutes, then I had to excuse myself since I’m still hoping to go to
Sesriem today.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Returning to the hostel, the guy was
still there. No luck as yet, he said. I waited until 2 pm hoping that someone
will show up and share the tour cost with me. Suddenly the guy told me that he
got something else to do and couldnt take me, even if someone shows up. I was
like, WHATTT? I had been wasting my time waiting. I should have gone to the
tourist info center and checked my luck there. Haaihhhh...</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Its too late now. I contacted Mr. Aki
who later told me that the Ambassador invited me to stay at his residence. I
accepted the invitation happily and waited for Mr Aki to fetch me. I trailed
behind his car and was taken to the residence. I was greeted by the
Ambassador’s wife, Madam Ida Alina, a very sweet and kind lady. She was busy
cooking in the kitchen when I arrived. I was showed the guest room in the nice
big house. The room was big and very comfy. </span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We had a sumptuous dinner that night.
Mr. Aki and Ashraf, the Ambassador’s son joined us too. The menu was tempoyak daun kayu, asam pedas ikan, fried chicken and sambal belacan. Madam
Ida is a great cook. I went to bed with a full stomach. Thanks to my host.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">4 – 5<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Windhoek – Swakopmund – Windhoek (B1 – B2 – B1, 720 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">After a delicious breakfast of nasi
lemak and donut, I said a temporary goodbye to my wonderful hosts and made my
way to Swakopmund, a resort town at the west Namibian coast.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The distance from Windhoek to
Swakopmund is approximately 360 km on Highway B1 and B2. As usual, the road,
even its a highway, was always deserted. There were a few roadblocks along the
highway though.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Nearing Swakopmund, high rising dunes
came into view. I was like...wowww. It was impressive. I checked in at Salty
jackal Backpackers (NAD200) and after resting for a while, I took a stroll
along the beach. There were people swimming in the blue Atlantic Ocean. Arent
they cold?<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This small town had lots of cafes and
museums, a casino and some pastel coloured buildings.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">After that, I headed to Dune 7 via D route.
The road was partly under construction. I could see more dunes by taking this
road. It was amazing, especially with the sun going down which cast long
shadows of the dunes. I arrived at Dune 7 which was the highest dune in
Namibia, about 383 m in height. Some people climbed up the dune, but not me.
I’m too lazy. HAHAHA...</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I took B2 route via Walvis Bay to
return to Swakopmund. It was already sunset so I cant explore the bay which was
famed with its flamingoes.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I returned to Windhoek the next day
taking the same way back. Upon arriving at Windhoek, I was met by Mr. Aki at
the city outskirt. He took me to Levi’s boutique at Grove Mall as I wanted to
buy a new pair of jeans. I seldom do shopping when traveling, but due to an
invitation, this time I had to. Upon knowing that tomorrow is my birthday, Mr.
Aki paid for the jeans and treated me at Seattle Coffee. He’s so nice and very
gentleman.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Later we returned to the Ambassador’s
residence. Dinner was fabulous with chicken curry, fried mixed vege, sambal and
fruits on the menu. We chatted while eating. After washing my hand after
dinner, I was surprised to see a cake on the table. Madam Ida asked me to
sit down. I was confused until they sang me a Happy Birthday song. OMG!!! I
felt like crying. How did she know that tomorrow is my birthday? I was deeply
touched by this family’s kindness. TQVM Ambassador, Madam Ida, and Ashraf for
celebrating my 51st bday here at the residence.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyRubpJo_2iz7jTpv538NUmg6maqV8utTnyFnmnHe9R8q5aX2agAkIxFgg5TBWU5Ph6QnxLj35fvpeE2uBP2QT81nozUja-zXZ-TzHclytH2paUxzq19QX_jhgaf1w_aNEW5SEFqIF1I/s1600/47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyRubpJo_2iz7jTpv538NUmg6maqV8utTnyFnmnHe9R8q5aX2agAkIxFgg5TBWU5Ph6QnxLj35fvpeE2uBP2QT81nozUja-zXZ-TzHclytH2paUxzq19QX_jhgaf1w_aNEW5SEFqIF1I/s400/47.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madam Ida bake this cake</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">6<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Windhoek – Kamanjab (B1 – C40, 506 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Its my 51<sup>st</sup> birthday
today. As I was packing my things on the bike, Madam Ida noticed some oil on
the floor where GD was parked. She asked me what was it? Goshh, I had no idea
but definitely, it came from the bike. I was worried but thankful that the
leakage was noticed before I hit the road. I made a video call to Faiesal, my
mechanic and contacted Mr. Lee from HLYM to ask for Yamaha contact in Windhoek.
Faiesal suspected that the oil came from the gear shaft after I told him that I
dropped the bike the other day at the TOC sign due to strong wind.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ambassador, Madam Ida and the embassy
staff made a flag off ceremony at the residence. Then, Mr. Aki led me to Yamaha
Windhoek. The mechanics checked GD and confirmed that the oil seal at the gear
shaft was leaking the oil. Unfortunately, since Yamaha FZ150 was not sold in
Windhoek, they didnt have the spare part, so we had to make do with a band from
other Yamaha bike which matched the oil seal. Well, as long it did its job, its
fine with me. My signal light which was not functioning was also sorted out.
The repair fee was NAD117, and again, Mr. Aki insisted to pay. He gave me one
condition though. I must take him riding one fine day. HAHAHA. You’re so cute.
TQVM.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">It was already noon when I made my way
up north on B1 – C40. The road was good and deserted. The wind was tolerable
and the sky was blue with some scattered clouds. I started to see wildlife on
C40. Among that I managed to see (but not a chance to capture them in my cam)
were antelopes, wild boars (lots of them), and birds. I saw lots of anthills
too. Some were as tall as a single storey house. It was very fascinating.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Even though it was tiring as I need to
cover a huge distance with only 1 short break to refuel and ate my packed lunch
given by Madam Ida, it was indeed an enjoyable ride. I reached Kamanjab just
before sunset. After refueling at the small town, I searched for a place to
sleep. I found a campsite and so happened that since the owner is a biker, I
get to camp for free. Alhamdulillah. Not just that, I got a special visitor too
– two big ostriches :)<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">7<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Kamanjab – Opuwo (C35 – C41, 270 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I made a move at 9.40am. Its a leisure
ride as the distance was near. The road was as usual, deserted. I saw some
giraffes near Etosha National Park. It was hard to spot them in the beginning
because they looked just like the trees. I only noticed they were giraffes when
the ‘trees’ moved. HAHAHA...<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">While I was busying myself with the
cam, a car stopped by the roadside. The driver questioned why am I taking pics
there? He asked why I’m using a selfie stick? I didnt like the way he asked me
as if I’m doing something wrong. Then I remembered Sam’s advise to not stopping
by the roadside and never entertain strangers because you didnt know their
intention. I hurriedly leave the place.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">It was blazing hot as I continued
riding to Opuwo.</span><span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: black;">I can still bear the heat,</span><span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: black;">but the most dangerous to me was the spiral wind.
There were lots of spiral wind in Namibia as this country was covered by desert.
From far I could see the wind building up and spiraling the sands, so I would
normally wait for it to pass before I continue riding. Its so amazing to watch.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">However this time, as I’m riding along
the edge of the national park which had more vegetations, I didnt see any
spiral wind nor do I feel the wind. But all of a sudden, while riding,
swooooshhh and my bike made an 'S' which meant that I had accidentally entered
the twister. I almost lost control of the bike. That was scary.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It took me 4 hours to reach my
destination. There was a roadblock nearing the town and I made a mistake of not
stopping since I didnt see anyone there. I only slowed down and then continued
riding, only to hear a loud whistle and a shout asking me to turn back. Damn,
I’m finished!!! Thats what I thought to myself. I turned back and played my
charm as usual. I apologized to the officer in charge. He was pretty strict but
after I told him that I’m doing Africa on my bike, he softened. He advised me
to be careful next time and I must stop at every roadblock, even if theres no
one there. Then only I realized that most of the police were taking shelter
under the trees to avoid the heat and was a bit hidden from the road. Okay,
lesson learned.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I refueled at the one and only fuel
station in town and was swarmed by the local Himba women, offering their goods
which were mainly bead necklaces and bracelets. The women, some topless, some
wearing bras, and some carrying their babies in a sarong behind their back,
persuaded me to buy their stuff. I rejected politely.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">While waiting for my turn to refuel, I
scanned my surrounding and got pretty excited. This was the reason why I rode
all the way from south to the north of Namibia, almost reaching the Namibian –
Angola border. To see and meet the Himba, one of the African tribes who still
lived according to their ancestors' way of life.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">After that, I rode to Abba GH as shown
on google maps. However, the guesthouse was nowhere to be seen. It was super
hot and I was heated up inside my full face helmet, riding jacket, pants and my
boots. I asked a woman for direction and she told me that the actual location
was 1 km further up. As I’m trying to turn my bike back to the main road, the
engine died. I had difficulties to free the gear. It took me 2 minutes of
struggling before I can start the engine. I almost fainted due to the heat. I managed
to find Abba GH (NAD230) and was so relieved to escape from the scorching sun.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I waited until the heat lessened and
took a stroll along the same road where I came earlier. I bought some groceries
and fruits at a supermarket, and after that I just lazed at the bus stop,
watching the Himbas and the Hereros, another tribe residing in Namibia. Unlike
the Himbas who put on very minimal clothing, the Hereros were stylish. I loved
to see the women in their bright coloured gowns with matching hats, walking the
street with an umbrella in their hand.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As for the Himbas, there are about 50k
of them left in Namibia. The women are majority topless and they put red ochre
cream mixed with butter on their skin to protect them from the unforgiven heat,
hence they looked red. They indeed have beautiful skin. They plaited their hair
and covered it with clay?? (I'm not sure) but the hair felt very rough like the
tail of the horse. Its interesting to see the different hair plaits style
indicating different statuses in their community. Also the accessories they
wear, very unique. Some of them walked barefooted and some wearing their
traditional sandals made from animal skin.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Witnessing all this, I found the
significance of a quote from a friend. "You can find Asia in Europe. You
can find Europe in America. But you cant find Africa elsewhere...Africa can
only be found in Africa."</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">8<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Opuwo – Ondangwa (C41 – C46, 272km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While packing my things, the guest
house owner came to me for a little chat. She took a photo with me and said that
I was the first Malaysian who came by motorbike and stayed at her place. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I backtracked the same C41to the
junction and was stopped by another police at a roadblock. The police was very
friendly and he pointed me a detour as there was road work.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The view changes from pre-desert to
Savannah. I rode carefully on the pretty good road which was shared with
donkeys, goats and cows. The SES of the locals seemed to improve here by the better
quality of the houses. During previous days, I saw the locals lived in a square-</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">shaped roofless house made from mud. Here, the houses had roofs and were made
from straws. The fence was made from branches of trees tied together.</span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was a pleasant ride today as theres
no disturbing wind. I arrived Ondangwa and searched for accommodation. Theres
nothing here actually, but this is a bigger town to split the 800 km journey
from Opuwo to Rundu. I settled at Fantasia GH (NAD200 after discount). I only
rest and sleep today. I was very exhausted after 9 continuous days of riding
since I left Cape Town, with not even one rest day.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">9 – 10<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Ondangwa – Rundu (C45 – B10, 506 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I started at 7.15am. I had to pass a
roadblock and the lady officer asked to see my passport (apart from my driving
license). She was not friendly at all. There were lots of speed bumps in the
town area. I almost dropped my bike due to braking instantly when I only
managed to notice them when its really close. The bumps here were normally not
indicated and only god knows when they were last painted. Its very dangerous
and I kept reminding myself to take extra precaution.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The landscape for today’s ride changed
from barren desert to more greens. I can see lots of animals drinking water in
puddles on the grassy area. The houses were very unique. </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As for the locals,
most of them walked by the roadside, some even barefooted. It amazed me when
thinking about how hot the road was due to the high temperature. How did their
feet stand the heat? I also noticed that the kids wore torn clothes, and the
men lazed under the trees while their women did the hard work, such as carrying
firewood on their head and water buckets in their hand. How unfair. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I can feel some wind today but luckily
it was a tailwind. However, the long ride and the high temp made my destination
very exhausting to reach. As I’m riding along B10, I was actually very near to
Angola. A small river separated Namibia and Angola.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I pulled over at one of the many picnic
areas along the way to eat my packed lunch of fried rice which I cooked this
morning. While eating, I observed my surrounding as you never know if wildlife suddenly came out from the bushes.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was very exhausted by the time I
reached Rundu. I settled down at Ngandu Lodge. This is a very nice lodge near
Cubango River which overlooks Angola. There are a few accommodation options to
choose from according to one’s budget. There is also a campground for campers.
A small pool to cool off from the heat is also available here. Its a nice quiet
place to rest and recharge after a long journey. The staff is very friendly.
This place is a home, far away from home.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I stayed for 2 nights here. On the
first night, I opted for the cheapest option, an authentic hut, but I ended up
couldnt sleep as it was boiling inside until 2 am. The next day, I spoke to the
grumpy manager for an upgrade. He changed me to an A/C room for a small
addition of money. How relieved I was.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">11<sup>th</sup> Dec
2019: Rundu – Katima Mulilo (B8, 513 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">From Rundu, I rode 513 km along the
Caprivi Strip to Katima. It was a suspense ride as now I’m riding in Bwabwata
NP in the Zambezi region. Unlike other national parks in Namibia, this one was
not fenced, hence the wildlife can suddenly appear out from the bushes. There
were lots of elephants signage, reminding road users to be alert at all time.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The first 80 km of my ride today was
very very quiet. I didnt meet any human or vehicle at all. Not even a house or
village can be seen. To be honest, I’m scared. The fear feeling was exactly
like how I felt when riding in Alaska. The only difference was cold vs hot
here, and bears vs elephants.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I had left the desert far behind me. It
was green in this region. At times, the bushes were tall and at times, the bushes were
very near to the road. Imagine if all of a sudden, a wild elephant came out
from the bushes, what am I going to do? Hence, I ‘turned on’ my wide view mode
while riding, scanning the surrounding far ahead of me. My heart was throbbing
fast all along the way. </span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was only after riding 100 km that I
saw a small settlement of a poor tribe. Their houses were so small. My bathroom
back home is even bigger than their houses. I felt so sorry for their poverty.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtPh-BnTbJJeGqmPto10XnjjzJPaPrJflBAUgzh7Pq7n6zEzosBv3ZLGpUKRqXImCH-ehZE0WOhz9nChp50MOcXNiKVlljeq9aP6PBtnu0-S-_6HVsP8EWRtPk8LbkS8bEfAt9gKWqLY/s1600/63.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtPh-BnTbJJeGqmPto10XnjjzJPaPrJflBAUgzh7Pq7n6zEzosBv3ZLGpUKRqXImCH-ehZE0WOhz9nChp50MOcXNiKVlljeq9aP6PBtnu0-S-_6HVsP8EWRtPk8LbkS8bEfAt9gKWqLY/s640/63.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">About 5 km before I reached Kongola, I
was shocked by the presence of an animal running from the forest to the road
that I’m riding on. I slowed down my bike instantly to let the animal passed.
It looked exactly like a cat, brown in colour, but 4 times bigger than an ordinary
cat. The ‘cat’ stopped under a tree to watch me. We were both fascinated by the
presence of each other. I almost stopped my bike to record the moment, but then
I remembered...if theres a ‘baby’ here, the ‘mom’ is surely not that far away.
Hence I forgo the idea of taking any pic and pressed the throttle to leave the
place.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I reached Katima at 3pm. Theres not
many budget accommodation option here. I had to settle down at Caprivi Hostel,
which was actually a house converted to a hostel. The fee was NAD150 and I got
the dorm all to myself as I was the only guest. The receptionist was very nice
and friendly. However, something happened that night which scared the hell out
of me.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The receptionist went home at 7 pm. I
was left with the security who brought his friend to accompany him. The friend
was over friendly towards me which made me felt uncomfortable. I didnt want to
entertain him and I avoided any eye contact with him. While having dinner at
the kitchen, I can feel him eyeing me up and down and I felt nervous to think that
there were only 3 of us in this hostel, and no one else. I finished my food
quickly and retired to my room. Fortunately theres a latch inside my room which
can be locked from the inside. Luckily too, the room had an attached toilet, so
I didnt have to go out and bumped into them when nature called.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I was just about to doze off when I
heard someone knocking on my door. It was the security, asking me to bring my
bike inside the house. My bike was parked just next to the wall where my bed
was located, so if anyone tries to steal it, for sure I can hear. I told him
that I’m not taking the bike in, just leave it there. Not long after that, the
knocking started again. I was like, urghhhh pleaseeee!!! I was getting annoyed.
Now what? The guys asked me to come out and watched TV with them. I told them
that I’m not interested to watch TV. I wanted to rest and dont disturb me. After
20 minutes, they knocked on my door again, asking me to chit chat with them. By
this time, I was getting very pissed off already. I shouted at them to leave me
alone, I’m tired and I need to sleep!!!</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The guys laughed. Obviously, they were
drunk. I remembered seeing the friend brought with him a dozen cans of beer
when he arrived. The locals here loved to drink. During my ride, whenever I
passed towns, I noticed bars at every 100 m or 200 m apart. Thats to tell you
how successful is alcohol business at this part of the world.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The disturbance went on until midnight
and I ended sleeping with a knife in my hand, and a pepper spray under my
pillow. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-45636829706583056312019-05-31T02:40:00.002-07:002019-05-31T02:40:58.125-07:00AFRICAN RIDE PART 1 - SOUTH AFRICA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">AFRICA... </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Why Africa this time? What
makes me want to ride at this part of the world?</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The answer is very easy. My long
semester holidays are from Nov – Dec. Its going to be winter in the northern
hemisphere. It left me with only the southern hemisphere to venture. I had
ridden in 5 continents already, minus Africa and Antarctica. So now its time to
give Africa a go.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">You are not scared to ride in Africa,
Anita?</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">This is the most frequently asked
question which was thrown to me. Well, a little scared, I must confess.
However, I had seen other female adventure riders did it. Some rode with their
partner, some did it solo. And all of them survived. So why dont I try? If
others can do it, so can I :)</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I was very busy (as alwayssss) and
didn’t do much research for this ride. I contacted Uwe, a Namibian born
advrider, and asked his advice regarding the route and places to visit. My Msian
friend, Sam, who had resided in Cape Town for 20 years and had since long asked
me to come over, also helped me with getting contacts. For my bike shipment and
clearance, I settled with an agent, Andy Connell, as it will be a lot easier
and hassle-free, rather than to save a few bucks but ended up with lots of
headaches.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">For this ride, I decided to use my
trusty Yamaha FZ150 which I named GD. Its the same bike I used for my Global
Dream Ride. Why did I use this bike when I had other options such as my Honda
CB500X or my BMW F700GS? There are a few reasons and the biggest issue is the
carnet deposit. I must have a carnet to enable me to take the bike into South
Africa, and the more expensive the market value for the bike is, the more
expensive the carnet deposit will be. If I were to bring my GS into Africa,
carnet itself will cost me RM50k as the bike is still very new. Other reasons
which my Yamaha FZ150 top my list of preferences are, it is a fuel safe
motorbike, the maintenance cost is lower, spare parts will be easier to find,
its lighter compared to the other bikes I owned and due to the bad road
condition and riding solo, a lighter bike will be a much wiser choice.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I contacted Hong Leong Yamaha Motor to
ask for some support. They provided me with a full service and parts change for
my GD which then made the bike new again. Thank you Mr. Lee Chan Wee for all yr
help and all the techs at the HQ and the Ipoh branch who had worked on GD.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPBm0OmEpIb64p53Dt7pFqRQ_Wycb4EC-W6iMkpci-HGUvyL9ygz1lBmizQifhzcV0-Zi-_-M584-iFUz5iDm7qbABQ4p3zBpZfaDqkur7WMJednTNPs2wQw7tnxTtqjES33DZCCRzJY/s1600/YAMAHA+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="315" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPBm0OmEpIb64p53Dt7pFqRQ_Wycb4EC-W6iMkpci-HGUvyL9ygz1lBmizQifhzcV0-Zi-_-M584-iFUz5iDm7qbABQ4p3zBpZfaDqkur7WMJednTNPs2wQw7tnxTtqjES33DZCCRzJY/s400/YAMAHA+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Givi, the brand I’m representing,
equipped my bike and myself with all the things needed for this ride. Most of
the stuff came from Givi Italy, and a little bit from Givi Malaysia. GD got a
new pair of spotlights, a pair of jerrycans, an airflow adjustable windshield,
phone holder, GPS holder, base plate and pannier rack, stopper light, tool
case, tool bag, spider netting, tubeless tire repair kit and an exhaust pipe
protector. Meanwhile, for myself, I got Givi waterproof bags (80L, 40L and 30L),
pouch, thermos and locks. Beside those stuff, I also received items from Hevik
(Givi’s sister brand) such as a pair of Hevik riding suit, Hevik technical
layer, Hevik summer and winter gloves, and a neck warmer. TQVM Givi and Hevik
for the never-ending support.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyOAGmIbFXAYCEHTRaIdRYw9HXkALRWcnrZ_Iy9dKyP_RQLx2w9kGGD9qZ0PHbO3KgJwO9gaDG4ImrNpOOitvpyxNY6wKBSZupU0ImdYvEKx7dQNrHf61cRfjhykwsY_9XfhNPIbRIBo/s1600/GIVI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="560" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyOAGmIbFXAYCEHTRaIdRYw9HXkALRWcnrZ_Iy9dKyP_RQLx2w9kGGD9qZ0PHbO3KgJwO9gaDG4ImrNpOOitvpyxNY6wKBSZupU0ImdYvEKx7dQNrHf61cRfjhykwsY_9XfhNPIbRIBo/s640/GIVI.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Accessories installation and custom
add-ons for the bike were prepared by Jimmy from MyBikerz (013-2121900) and the
bike’s engine final touch was done by my mechanic, Faiesal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Other in-kind sponsorship was outdoor
gears given by Eiger Adventure (a very famous outdoor brand from Indonesia). I
got myself a subzero sleeping bag, an air mattress, a pair of trekking boots, a
pair of outdoor sandals, wool gloves, wool socks, two pieces of trekking pants,
a fleece windbreaker, sunglasses, two outdoor watches, a solar water bucket and
Tshirts.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Mr. Ti from Motul gave me Zeneous ZN33
offroad tires for my bike. Medications were given by sis Kam from True Meds
Pharmacy (I need malaria tablets this time, out of other normal items) and two
boxes of instant Sharifah’s Food were given by sis Suzaila. TQVM everyone for
the support.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">For my African Ride, I made a loop,
starting from Cape Town (South Africa), to Namibia – Botswana – Zimbabwe –
Zambia – back to Zimbabwe – back to Botswana – back to South Africa – Lesotho –
and back to South Africa for the third time. I finished my ride in Cape Town
and the bike was stored here until I return in Nov 2019 to continue exploring
this unique continent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">SOUTH AFRICA</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I arrived at Cape Town International
Airport on 22<sup>nd</sup> Nov 2018 after a total journey of 30 hours
since I left my house in Ipoh. The Ethiopian Airlines flight which I flew with
made a brief stop at Addis Ababa. I was pretty exhausted when I arrived CT and
was relieved that my dear friend, Sam, offered to fetch me at the airport. CT
airport is not big, but it took 1 hour for us to meet. HAHAHA, let that be our
story to cherish.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My 1st impression of this city
was....the winddddd. It was blowing hard. Sam said that its windier than normal
today, but this is not the strongest yet. Urghhh... I was worried to think of
how I'm going to manage riding my lil bike here. Sam took me to his house where
I met his wife Amina, daughter Nurmah and son, Ahmed. Amina is a great cook.
All her cookings were delicious. I felt very much welcomed by this family.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">The next day, my agent, Andy came and
took me to meet Bevan, the forwarding agent. My carnet and other details were
taken. I was told that the vessel which carried my bike will arrive later than
scheduled due to the strong wind. Auww...This is the risk that you have to take
when shipping your bike.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While waiting for my bike, Sam brought
me for sightseeing in and around Cape Town. Sam rode his Honda Shadow bike
whilst I rode his 1969 Royal Enfield. This is the first time I tried this
classic bike. It was heavy and sturdy, and not affected by the strong wind at
all even though I could feel the heavy wind slapping my chest. I managed to
visit the icon of Cape Town, Table Mountain. It indeed looked like a table with
its flat top. Theres a cable car going to the top (R290), but I didnt do
tourist things. Especially when its pricey. HAHAHA... So, I just enjoyed
the view of the Atlantic Ocean and the cape from the viewpoint. We also went to
Signal Hill where I could see many locals picnicking.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Our next stop was Bo Kaap, a nice
colourful Malay Quarter which had existed here since 300 years ago. I loved the
bright and pastel colours of the houses and buildings. Sam told me that some
elderly who lived here can still speak Malay. We chatted with a senior Malay Cape guy, unfortunately he couldnt speak our mother tongue.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Then Sam and I rode to Hout Bay via
Misty Cliff. We enjoyed a very delicious snoek fish n chips meal at Sam’s
favourite cafe while viewing the sunset.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next day, Sam brought me to Cape
Peninsula. It was approximately 60 km from Sam’s house which took us about 1
hour to ride due to some congestions at Simons Town. The entrance fee was R303.
Upon reaching Cape Point, I was surprised to learn that I need to pay again to
take a funicular to the lighthouse. Normally at any parts of the world, you
only paid once to enter any national parks. I found that attraction fees
anywhere in Cape Town were pretty expensive. However, the rock formation,
landscape, and the view of the blue South Atlantic Ocean crashing huge waves to
the cliff down below were a spectacular sight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Then we rode to the nearby Cape of Good
Hope. I saw three big antelopes up the hill while on the way, but couldnt
manage to take any pic as I need to trail behind Sam’s bike. Cape of Good Hope
(Tanjung Harapan) was first discovered by a Portuguese ship captain,
Bartholomew Dias in 1488. This place was in my bucket list since I was little,
but it was only now that I managed to be here. There were too many people as it
was Saturday, so I couldnt pose at the signboard with the bike. However, I met
a Malaysian guy who had been here for an outbound course. The guy was so
excited to meet me. HAHAHA...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After that, we rode to Muizenberg, not
taking the coastal way but Sam guided me through an inland route passing some
hills which offered beautiful bird's eye view of the area. We rested for a
while at Muizenberg beach and chatted with the friendly locals. The colourful
dress changing huts were the attraction here, besides the lovely beach.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">One thing which amazed me the most here
was the women. Almost all of them, young or old have big boobs and butt. How
did they get it so big and the butt is so round? Genetic? Cosmetic? Both?
Through my reading, I found out that it is the women’s pride as the bigger
their assets are, the more fertile they were. Interesting :)</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">During my stay here, I also managed to
meet a local advrider, Anwar Omar. He helped to bring me to ECU office to make
payment for my bike’s shipping. The total shipping fee plus all fees at Port
Klang, Cape Town port and the wooden crate for the bike were USD1758.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My bike had arrived Cape Town port, but
due to the strong wind, unloading the bike from the vessel to the jetty was
delayed. I’m getting very impatience. I was very lucky that I stayed at Sam’s
place, or else I would be cursing the delay as it jeopardized my travel
itinerary. To kill the time, Sam took me for a ride to Cape Town waterfront.
Our first stop was the Castle of Good Hope which </span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">was a bastion fort built in
the 17</span><sup style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> century. The castle was so-so but what impressed me
more was the view of the clouds which all of a sudden, came down from the sky.
The clouds were so low that it touched the roof of the castle. Then we went to
the waterfront to enjoy free acapella entertainment by the locals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Finally, Andy my agent told me that my
bike was ready to be cleared. Sam drove me to ICS – Intermodal Cargo Solutions.
We waited for Andy to arrive. After some documentation which took about 2
hours, I was taken to the warehouse where GD, my bike was kept inside its
crate. How relieved I was to reunite with my loving bike. I missed him so very
badly. The guys helped to uncrate the box and Sam helped to get me some fuel.
The battery then connected and I started the engine. Vroooommmm.....the engine
came alive. Yeaayyyy!!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: black;">30<sup>th</sup> Nov
2019: Cape Town – Springbok (N7, 590 km)</span></b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">I must do 590 km today</span><span style="color: #1d2129;"> to cover back
the lost days due to the vessel delay. At 8am, </span><span style="color: black;">I said goodbye and
thanks to my lovely hosts, Sam and Amina. Sam brought me to a petrol station
for me to fill up GD’s tank. He was so kind as to pay for the fuel and gave me
some pocket money. May Allah paid back his kindness to me.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">Sam then guided me to exit CT. However,
the road was so heavy with traffic as it was the morning rush hour. After 5 km
of a very slow ride trailing behind Sam’s car, I overtook him and signaled to
him that I will be fine. I knew that Sam was worried about my safety,
especially because I’m riding solo. He had been repeating his concern many
times since the first day I’m here. I was informed that prior to my arrival, a
local lady rider was robbed and shot to death by the roadside.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The road in South Africa is awesome.
The signboards are very clear and the driving attitude is to be praised. Very
disciplined drivers and I felt no harm at all riding here. The ride to exit CT
was slow for about 20 km. After that, the road became deserted and I had a
smooth ride. The first part of my ride offered dried grassland view which
reminded me of Iran. Then I passed some beautiful green vineyards.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">After that, I had to ride on rolling
hills. There were lots of ascends and descends and I encountered headwind for
the first 400 km. Hence my small powered bike took a longer time as it cant go
fast ascending and fighting headwind at the same time. GD consumed more fuel
due to this.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">It was a very hot day today and I
became sooo exhausted. I only stopped for a brief 20 mins after riding for 5
continuous hours, and thats because GD needed fuel.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;">The view of the remaining journey
changed to pre-desert with barren mountain which reminded me of Utah/Arizona in
the States.</span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I arrived Springbok after riding for 9
hours and rode straight to the Caravan Park. I was too tired to pitch my tent,
so I opted for a rondavel accommodation which cost me R200. The place was quite
nice with a clean shared ablution. The sunset view here was pretty awesome too.
However, I didnt sleep well because it was very hot. Well, this is Africa, what
do you expect, Anita?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-15117813033836424592018-09-04T00:47:00.001-07:002018-09-04T02:22:00.039-07:00NEW ZEALAND PART 4: NORTH ISLAND (WELLINGTON - WHANGANUI - TAUPO - ROTORUA - AUCKLAND)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>27<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017: WELLINGTON - WHANGANUI</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As soon as I entered highway 1, the road was jammed packed with vehicles. Everyone is going on vacation. Bill had warned me about this. It was a hot day today and after no movement after 15 minutes, I started to feel tense. However, I had no choice as this is the rule here. Even motorbikes had to queue just like other vehicles, but at least they had a roof above their head and air-conditioned to cool them. Unlike bikers, we had nothing to protect us from the sun.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The vehicles finally moved but at a very slow pace. This continued for the first 3 hours. I didnt even cover half of my journey for today yet. I became very restless, so did other bikers. When one started to ride on shoulder lane, I saw the others did the same, so I followed them as well. I managed to ride faster. The traffic lessened at Levin and I sped as fast as I could. Luckily theres no traffic police or else I might get a ticket for speeding. It took me 5 hours from Wellington to reach my destination, Whanganui even though the distance was only 190kms.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The small charming town on Whanganui was quiet. Only a few traffic on the road. Perhaps because today is Boxing Day. I met a guy who wanted to host me. His name was Damon. I was introduced to her Maori wife, Wendy. Damon was a policeman and they lived in a house on a hill overlooking the nice view of Whanganui River. Damon worked night shift so only Wendy was at home and she accompanied me during dinner. She was so sweet and friendly and we talked mostly about Maori culture. Wendy told me that its a good option not to stay at a marae as I had planned earlier because it had lots of ancestor spirits which can easily enter a human body. Euwww... thank god I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> opt for marae stay.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wendy, Damon and I</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>28<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017: WHANGANUI - TONGARIRO NP - TAUPO</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I only had a chance to talk to Damon this morning. He gave me route advises as there were few options to Taupo, my destination for today. Wendy gave me some fruits for lunch. After thanking the sweet young couple, </span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I rode on route 4 which was very scenic and much quieter compared to the national highway. However, there were lots of roads washed out due to landslides and I need to ride with caution on the narrow winding road. It was raining on and off and I felt very cold. So I had to put on my heated gloves and I felt much better after that.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding on quiet road always gv me a piece of mind</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The funny lil tree caught my eyes</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">The wind was pretty strong when I crossed Tongariro National Park on route 47 but </span>fortunately<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> it was from behind me, so I got a tailwind instead. These few days, the country experienced strong wind due to the southern wind blowing. I stopped for fuel at Turangi and met some local lady bikers. Then I proceeded to Taupo, stopping for a while at Taupo Lake (the biggest lake in NZ) to enjoy the breeze. Since this is a volcanic lake, the beach sand was greyish black in </span>colour<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I checked in at Taupo Rainbow Lodge. I will be staying here for 2 nights (NZD26 per night). This was a very popular place and was fully booked when I was there. I made friends with three solo travelers, Tonya (Russian), Luca (Italian) and Fahad (Arabian) and we agreed to go sightseeing together tomorrow.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">29<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017: TAUPO</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We hopped in Fahad’s car around 10am and drove to Huka Falls. The falls were as beautiful as 15 years ago. We spent some time here watching the jet boaters. Later we trekked for 1:30hrs along the river. There were too many tourists as it was still holiday time for the locals.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After that, we drove to Crater of the Moon volcanic area. The entrance fee was NZD8 which well worth the price. We trekked for 1 hour in this area watching the mud pools and the steams coming out from the ground. It was impressive but very smelly.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trek at Crater of the Moon</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see steams everywhere</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My treeking mates, Tonya, Luca and Fahad</td></tr>
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Finally<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> we drove back to Taupo and just lazed by the lake to watch black ducks and swans swimming. It was fun to watch them. We chatted and exchanged travel stories among us.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Later in the evening, I went to Countdown supermarket to buy chocolates to take home. To my delight, there were mussels sold here!!! I was very happy. I bought some and feasted myself with sweet n sour mussels for dinner. Mmmmm...</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>30<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017: TAUPO - ROTORUA</b></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was a short ride today to Rotorua via route 1. There were still lots of cars on the road but not as bad as the other day. The weather was fine, the road was good and no disturbing wind today. I was hosted by Tiana, a former lady biker and also John’s ex. Her house was near Lake Rotorua. After resting for a while, she and her boyfriend, Martyn brought me sightseeing.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I told them that I had always wanted to see a marae but never got a chance. The marae in Whanganui was closed when I stopped to visit a few days ago. What is a marae? Marae is the focal point of Maori communities thru-out NZ. Its the meeting ground in a complex of carved buildings which belongs to a tribe (iwi), subtribe (hapu) and family (whanau). Last time, travelers can walk in and stay at a marae but these days its only for big gatherings such as weddings and funerals. Its interesting to see the beautiful decoration of the marae. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martyh standing in front of a marae</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The couple also took me to a burial ground at an evangelical church. Whats interesting here was the body of the dead was above the ground, not underground. Why was that so? Because Rotorua was a thermal land and the underground was very hot and burning. You can see steams coming out from the ground at many places here.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evangelical church and the burial ground</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After </span>that<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> the couple took me for early dinner at a Turkish restaurant in the town of Rotorua. Martyn’s daughter, Bronwen joined us. I had a rice meal with mixed chicken and lamb grill. It was delicious. We had baklava for dessert. When was the last time I ate baklava? At one of Fida’s AMAC party in </span>Ankara<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I guess.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Generous Malaysians putting their Ringgits on the board :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you happen to see my note in this restaurant, plz take a picture and send it to me :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronwen, Martyn, Tiana and I</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">We then went to Government Garden. I had been here before too but the building looks so</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">beautiful today since the sun was shining brightly and the sky was so blue.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our last destination was Kuirau Park to see the boiling pools and mud. The smell of sulfur dominated the area.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boiling mud pool</td></tr>
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Thanks<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Tiana and Martyn for being my bestest tour guides. Not only I managed to see the attractions here but also I get to know the history as well. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>31<sup>st</sup> Dec 2017: ROTORUA - HAMILTON - AUCKLAND</b></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before leaving this morning, Martyn gave me a drawing book which he published as a souvenir. That was so sweet of him. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I said goodbye to both of them and rode on route 5 – 1 to Hamilton. Its not difficult to find </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/melayunz?source=feed_text&story_id=10156306564592345"><span style="background: white; color: #4267b2;">#</span><span style="background: white; color: #365899;">MelayuNZ</span></a></span><span style="background: white; color: #365899; font-family: inherit , serif;">’s </span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">house, owned by Hj Ruslan. He was the brother of my Georgian friend, Rose Aini. This was the one and only Malay house which I visited during my entire NZ ride. Even though I didnt know them, I was so happy to meet a Malay family and talked in my native language again. Mdm Azizah made delicious noodles in a special soup. We talked about lots of things. This family also made their house as an accommodation for Malaysian people who visited NZ.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dap...dap...dapppppp</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hj Ruslan on the far right and his wife, Mdm Azizah is the one next tome wearing white hijab</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">After spending about 1:30 hours, I had to make a move. I said thanks to them and rode to Auckland. There were more cars on the road but still tolerable. I crossed the long bridge which had a fascinating view of yachts. It was easy to find my brother and sister’s house. John and Heather had been waiting for my arrival. I hugged them. It was like going back home. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its good to be 'home'</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">I had promised them that I will cook for dinner, so after sorting out my things from the bike, I went to work inside the newly painted bright red kitchen. Heather had bought halal lamb meat. As promised, I made lamb briyani with lamb curry and chicken in tomato sauce. We had a good time chatting and eating as I told them my NZ riding stories.</span><br />
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<b style="color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">1<sup>st</sup> Jan 2018: AUCKLAND</b></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was raining on and off on my last day in Auckland which was also the New Year 2018.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather feeding the birds</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> However, my lovely hosts, John and Heather brought me sightseeing around the city of sails in their bright red FUN and GO sports car. We went to the wharf to see fancy yachts which docked there. I was told the price of the yachts started from NZD25k to millions. I also managed to see a steamship and a float plane.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I rode on this bridge the other day</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sky Tower in the background</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Later we went to One Tree Hill to see a monument. View of Auckland city can be seen from above the hill. We also visited a park nearby.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you happen to spot the "FUN N GO" red sports car, thats my brother and sister :)</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Then, it was time to say goodbye. The couple sent me to the airport. It was hard to part with them. I hugged Heather a </span>looongg<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> time. Both of them were like my brother and sister. Same goes to Bill and Cornish in Nelson, Ray </span>and<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> Joan in Kaikoura, Tiana and Martyn in Rotorua and Mary and Alex in Mosgiel. I felt so sad to leave. Heather assured me that the next time if I come again, I will have a home in Auckland.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thank you very much to all for the warmth, love, hospitality, and kindness during my ride in NZ. God willing, we shall meet again.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Goodbye NZ. Goodbye, all. The ride had ended but the memory remained will be cherished forever...</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From cape to cape</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From bay to bay</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From northernmost to southernmost<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From blue oceans to desert drive to snow peak mountains</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Four major passes (Arthur Pass, Lewis Pass, Haast Pass and Lindys Pass)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">7500kms done<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Until the next ride.....</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-75420078380520396202018-09-03T07:49:00.001-07:002018-09-04T00:42:54.020-07:00NEW ZEALAND PART 3: SOUTH ISLAND (TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN - WANAKA - ALBERT TOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - LAKE MAHINAPUA - LEWIS PASS - KAIKOURA - NELSON<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PART 3: SOUTH ISLAND the western route</td></tr>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">16<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, WINTON - TE ANAU</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I slept like a baby last night. I woke up upon the sounds of animals outside my window. The room I slept had a farm view which owned by my hosts. I could see some sheep and chickens scattered about. It was a wonderful stay at their big comfy house and Jan asked me to stay for another night. However, I had a schedule to follow so I had to leave. After saying thanks and goodbye to them, I rode north via a secondary road. Upon reaching Mossburn, I turned left to route 94 heading to Te Anau. Very soon after, I felt very strong wind coming from the front. I had to lean down to fight the wind. Again, it was a tiring and annoying situation. Fortunately my ride today was only for 120kms so it wasnt so stressful.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very neat and colourful mailbox</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I checked in at Te Anau Lakefront Hostel. The fee for a dorm bed was NZD34 per night, the most expensive dorm fee for me in NZ. I had to opt for a hostel because I need to wake up very early tomorrow. If I camped, I will need 1:30 hours to shower, breakfast, packed my tent and camping items and strapped them on the bike. So, camping wasnt an option for me for today. I didnt do nothing much except sitting on a bench opposite the lake and watching sunset.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">17<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I started my day very early at 5am. I rode from Te Anau to Milford Sound via route 94. It was raining and very foggy, hence the early start, especially because I didnt want to miss the 8.55am Milford Sound cruise. The mists surrounded the mountains hence only once in a while when it cleared, I managed to see a glimpse of it which was beautiful. I had to ride in and out a few tunnels. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I arrived MS and went straight to Jucy counter to purchase my ticket. The fare was NZD45, the cheapest compared to other cruises. The cruise departed on time. A piece of cake and a free flow of hot drinks available on board FOC. There were not many people because its still early and not the best time to see MS. I was not as lucky as the weather was shitty. I had been on MS cruise twice and at both times, the weather was not on my side. No luck.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many waterfalls at Milford Sound</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">After the cruise, I rode back the same way to Te Anau. There was a very thick fog especially nearing the tunnel. Visibility was only 30m, worse than the time when I came this morning. It was pretty scary because the road was wet, steep and winding. I need to focus 200%. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">I stopped at the famous Mirror Lake which I had spotted this morning. The lake was crystal clear hence the reflection was like a mirror to the lake.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">I refuel at Te Anau and continued riding. Again I had to fight fierce crosswind upon approaching Mossburn. Then only I knew that Mossburn was a high wind area all year long. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">It rained all the way till Queenstown. Overall I did 11 hours on the road today, covering 420kms. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I had to find my host’s shop at a food court inside O’Connell Mall. It was Sunday and I had difficulty to find parking outside the mall. I finally found one, am not sure if its safe or not, but I had no choice. I went inside the mall and found my host. Mr Chakra, who owned a Himalayan Nepalese food business (with halal certificate) here. He was linked to me by my cousin, Linda. He asked me to wait for his wife to arrive and she will lead me to their house. I waited and waited but his wife never appears. I almost gave up after waiting for 2 hours. I was cold, wet, hungry, miserable and very tired. I couldnt stay in hostels here because theres no private parking and Queenstown was not as safe as it used to be. I cant stay in hotels either because its too expensive for my wallet.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Finally, Mr Chakra gave me his house address and asked me to go there straight away because his wife ain’t coming. I was like...ok, be patient Anita. Its you who want to stay at people’s home, so bear with it. I rode for another 7kms which took me nearly 30 minutes as the road was narrow and winding and it was quite tricky to find their house. I found the house in the end, 14 hours after I left Te Anau this morning. God knows how tired I was.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">18<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, QUEENSTOWN</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Today is my rest day. I felt much better this morning. I was so hungry because I only had instant noodles last night. While having breakfast, I chatted with Lalitha, Chakra’s wife. They had lived more than 10 years in NZ and their food business was doing well. They were planning to open another branch soon. Good for them. I followed Lalitha to Queenstown Central and she dropped me at the tourist info center. I grabbed a map and checked the walking route. It was quite hot today but I walked along the Esplanade to YHA Lakefront which I stayed in 2002. There’re lots of new hotels along the road, not like last time. However, the view of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains remained unchanged. Still beautiful. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Then I walked back to the central and watched buskers for a while. I did my souvenir shopping at DS souvenir shop and walked to a nearby park just to laze. I didnt do any activities such as jet boating or bungy because I had done all that way back in 2002. </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Around 5pm I went back to the mall. Lalitha made me rice with lamb curry. It was yummy. She was a great cook.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My host, Lalitha & Chakra</td></tr>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">19<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, QUEENSTOWN - WANAKA - ALBERT TOWN</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">In the morning, I bid farewell to my hosts. The plan was to ride to Glenorchy and </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">maybe</span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"> all the way to Kinloch. However, when I reached Mt Creighton, the wind was blowing really hard and followed by drizzles. Gone was the beautiful view of Lake Wakatipu. I hesitated for a while – to go or not to go? I checked the weather forecast and it said that </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">its</span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"> going to rain today. Haihhh. No luck again. I made up my mind to continue riding to my actual destination.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">I stopped at Kawarau Gorge to witness kayakers paddling on the beautiful turquoise blue Kawarau River and to see people doing bungy jumping. I spent 1 hour here. It was fun to watch and to recall my very own adrenaline rush moment when doing </span>bungy<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> in 2002.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Then I continued, stopping again at the same fish n chips cafe in Cromwell for lunch.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">I then rode to Lake Wanaka via Puzzling World, only stopping for pics. Sorry, I'm not a tourist, I dont do tourist things :)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Wanaka</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">After that I rode straight to my host’s house in Albert Town. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Andi was at home when I arrived. He was an </span>advrider<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> and I found him in Advrider website. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Andi invited me to go to his new house in Wanaka which was under renovation. I met his wife Ellen who was busy sewing curtains. On the walls of the house, I could see framed photographs from the couple’s past travels. The photos were taken by Ellen. She was very talented and her photos put “</span>wowww<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">” on my lips.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">The couple was in a rush to rent the house for Christmas holidays. I helped them to fix the curtain and the bedspread. By late afternoon, we went back to their house in Albert Town.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">20<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, ALBERT TOWN</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I rest another day here. My hosts went out to Queenstown to do some shopping for the new house. They invited me to come along but I rejected politely as I need to study my upcoming route. I promised them that I will cook for dinner today. We had dinner of nasi lemak with chicken rendang and anchovies sambal. They loved it. It was a simple yet lovely dinner at the couple’s patio. We exchanged stories about our rides. Andi and Ellen rode North and South America for 3 and a half years. Amazing, isnt it? After dinner, Andi helped me with my bike maintenance :)</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">21<sup>st</sup> Dec 2017, ALBERT TOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - HOKITIKA - LAKE MAHINAPUA</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I said thanks to my hosts and left in the morning. I had a long way to go today and a few sightseeing stops to do. Not long after leaving Albert Town, I felt strong wind again especially at Lake Hawea. Black clouds started to accumulate in the sky and very soon, droplets of rainfall from above.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Hawea</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I rode on Haast Pass Highway (route 6) heading north. My first stop was Fantail Falls (23m), located in Mt Aspiring National Park, but just next to the roadside. Even though its not so high, its much prettier than Purakaunui Falls which I’d seen the other day. I continued for another 6 kms and stopped again. I need to do a short walk to reach Thundercreek Falls (96m). It was beautiful and impressive to see the water flow from the cliff high above. The good thing about NZ was, even though its a pricey country, but the national parks are free so you can visit all the natural attractions (which had good facility and toilet) without having to pay a single cent.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fantail Falls</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thundercreek Falls</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;">It rained continuously for the whole day. I stopped again at Franz Josef for a hot chocolate and waited about 30 minutes for the rain to lessen. I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;"> trek to the glaciers as I had seen it before. Besides, what can you view in this bad weather? </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;">I continued riding and passed lots of blue rivers. I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;"> stop for pics because it was raining and all I had in mind was to reach my destination ASAP. After riding for 400kms, I reached Lake Mahinapua campground. All in all, I rode 8 hours in rain today, but Givi raincoat, top bag and soft cases on the bike </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;"> leak a drop. Excellent gears. </span><br />
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">22 Dec 2017, LAKE MAHINAPUA - GREYMOUTH - LEWIS PASS - KAIKOURA</span></b></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Another 400kms ride from Lake Mahinapua to Kaikoura via Lewis Pass today. The weather was lovely after the wet wet ride yesterday and the wind was tolerable. After Greymouth, I turned right to route 7 and started riding on Lewis Pass. Yes, for my NZ ride, I was zigzagging the country to get the best as much as I can. Lewis Pass was not as steep as most high mountain passes in other countries. As at Arthurs Pass the other day, this pass also offered a very unique and beautiful view. Its pretty barren and dry but I loved this kind of view.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">I noticed that petrol was much more expensive in the South Island and the priciest I paid was at Lewis Pass, NZD2.35 p/l (RM7.05). After descending from the pass, I took the inland route 70 which was the epicenter of the Nov 2016 earthquake and was badly damaged. At the time of riding, this road opened only for temporary from Fri - Sun and shall be closed again after the holidays. While riding and witnessing traces of the quake, I tried to imagine how does a magnitude 7.8 quake felt like.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Didnt expect I'm going to see llamas here. The last time I saw one was in Argentina</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Kaikoura was my last minute destination. The reason why I came here was to see whales. Arriving at the small town, I headed straight to the center to refuel. However, my jaw dropped and I was so much at awe when looking at the sea in front of me. I had seen so many blue sea, oceans, rivers, lakes, but nothing...I repeat, nothing was as blue as this. It was so blue that I had no word to describe how beautiful it was. The tiredness of riding for 400kms gone in a snap of the fingers when looking at this kind of view. I drink in the sea view for a while before refueling, and then I headed straight to my host’s house which was a stone throw away from the waters.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Joan and Ray were friends of Heather and John. They were very nice and kind to me. They had a nice big and comfortable house. They took me to a pre-Christmas party at their friend’s place where I got to meet some bikers. Ray was a biker too during his younger days. After spending about 2 hours there, we went back home. We chatted over dinner. They told me that a shake of 4 something at Richter scale just happened a day before I arrived. Euwwww</span>....</div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">23 Dec 2017, KAIKOURA</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">As the malay saying goes, “Manusia merancang, Dia menentukan...” (“Human plan but God determines”)</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I came from far with high hopes to see whales but it was not materialized because one must pre-book way in advance for a whale-watching tour. I thought that I </span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">didnt<span style="background: white;"></span> need to book because the road to Kaikoura was only recently opened. Due to this, and since Christmas is approaching, my host suggested that I go for a dolphin tour instead. Since I’m already here, I agreed half-heartedly.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p>But my oh my...I have had a blast!! I had seen dolphins before but never as up close and as many as this time. There were not less than 50 wild dolphins showing off their acrobatic skills flip-flapping in the South Pacific waters. It was very entertaining. I didnt know where to look as they were around the vessel, either racing together or doing somersaults. This indeed was the highlight of my ride in NZ. </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVLSeWi_HzrP7_3IRTP7zsw4S9dPj4O74P_HRu6TGWh3pGutnrLWxsZGcEYZhtKWNO9oJ-9PEXCHh5onufnG8FE4vJjkCAM9GctTTr40Ycp2zvIUVGFrhUBhnyde0GHjrJ_PwhF4Lr6w/s1600/P1180046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1245" data-original-width="1600" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVLSeWi_HzrP7_3IRTP7zsw4S9dPj4O74P_HRu6TGWh3pGutnrLWxsZGcEYZhtKWNO9oJ-9PEXCHh5onufnG8FE4vJjkCAM9GctTTr40Ycp2zvIUVGFrhUBhnyde0GHjrJ_PwhF4Lr6w/s400/P1180046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My best shot</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">And the thing which put tears in my eyes was when the supposed NZD100 tour was FOC for me because Joan worked at the tour company's cafe and Ray used to be the company's mechanic. I got a special treatment from the crew when I was allowed to sit on the upper level, next to the driver. My many thanks to Joan and Ray for the experience which I will never forget in my whole life.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joan and Ray</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">I was smiling from ear to ear when I walked back to my host’s house after the </span>tour,<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> and telling them what I had seen. I was like a very excited kid...HAHAHA. Joan gave me a fresh crayfish </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">(lobster) which she caught using a special trap. She told me that the locals were allowed to catch this fish but up to a limited number daily (I forgot the exact number). I still had my coconut milk powder so I decided to cook amasak lemak cili api </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">for it. It was difficult to shed the shells and one could cut their fingers if they were not careful enough as the shell was sharp.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crayfish in hot spicy coconut gravy</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Around 5pm. my hosts took me for a drive to a </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">viewpoint</span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> up the hill. It was so windy that I felt almost being blown away. The view of Kaikoura can be seen from up here.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p>Then they took me to the beach. They waited in the car and asked me to walk on the beach to find seals. I headed to the place where I saw many tourists around. I found the seals. It was good to watch them in their natural habitat. Unlike the seal colony in Cape Foulwind which can only be seen from a lookout deck, the seals here scattered everywhere on the beach. I can touch them if I want to, but of course I didnt do it as there were signs saying not to disturb them.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">There were lots of seagulls here too. I found them cute, but Joan told me that they were a pest nowadays because the number increased by lots and were uncontrollable.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">And as I had mentioned earlier, the water itself was sooo beautiful. At a certain time, the water has three different tones of blue. I must say that apart from the secluded beaches which I had seen which need some trekking to reach, Kaikoura beach was among the most beautiful in NZ, and you dont need to trek to enjoy its beauty. Do include this place in your list if you are visiting NZ.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">I was being carried away with the beauty of this place that I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> realize the high tide was coming very fast. I was quite far from the road where Ray and Joan were waiting in the car. I had to walk quickly in order not to be trapped in the waters. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Before going home, my host showed me some ruined buildings due to the earthquake.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forgot the name of this trees but it was in full bloom when I was there</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">We returned home and watch a beautiful </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">sunset from the window of their living room. Imagine having this view every single day? But they have a scary experience too. The 2016 earthquake. Listening to their stories sends shivers down my spine...</span></div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">24<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, KAIKOURA - NELSON</span></b><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">I felt sad to leave my wonderful hosts. I could see the same in Ray’s eyes as well. However, the journey must continue. I parted farewell with thanks to both of them.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Posing at Joan's beautiful garden</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Then I made my way north via route 1 to Blenheim. The road which was opened recently was still under heavy supervision. The speed limit for the first 40kms outside Kaikoura was 30 – 40kmh only. </span><span style="background: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">This enabled me to sink in the view and witnessed how much the earthquake impact on the area, especially the seabed which was raised by up to 2 meters.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">The view along the way to Blenheim was beautiful. A bit dry but nice. The wind was disturbing me again. Haihh...</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">From Blenheim, I took route 6 to Havelock and all the way back to Bill’s house in Nelson. Bill had asked me to stay at his place for Christmas as accommodations will be full and pricey everywhere. I accepted the invitation and was very happy to meet him and Cornish again.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">By now, I had completed my ride in the South Island. I will spend a few days at Bill’s nice home before hitting North via the west coast.</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"> <span style="background: white;">I told Bill that I'm craving for mussels. We managed to find some at the supermarket and I cooked the mussels in chili and oyster sauce.</span></span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musesls in chili and oyster sauce </td></tr>
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<b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">25<sup>th</sup> – 26<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, NELSON</span></b><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">Its not uncommon that I'm abroad every Christmas. However, I had never experienced Christmas celebration in a home of those who celebrated it. I'm very lucky that this time, I stayed with Bill and Cornish in Nelson, so I get to experience Christmas celebration their style. On Christmas Eve last night, Bill brought me to the Cathedral Park where I get to see the locals and tourists singing Christmas carols, backed up by the Cathedral's orchestra.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">On Christmas day itself, we went to Bill's sister's house for brunch. Jane made a delicious waffle which we ate with berries and Hokey Pokey ice cream. Mmmm....yummyyy. Then we had a croissant with butter and jam, served with coffee. At Jane's house, I also get to meet her beautiful adorable ragdoll cat, Beppe. How I missed my Cici so much (</span>cryyyy<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">Later in the evening, Jane joined us for dinner at Bill's house where Bill made a mouth-watering Greek style halal lamb roast served with potatoes, vege</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> salad made by Cornish, rice, bread, and summer pudding for dessert. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It might looks scary but the taste? Mmmmm yummyyy</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cornish, Bill and Jane</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;">Thank you very much Bill, Cornish and Jane for my very first Christmas experience celebrating at a local’s home. I think I am putting on weight now :</span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-size: 10.5pt; text-align: justify;">D</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooking briyani for my host</td></tr>
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<b style="color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">27<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017: Nelson - Picton</b></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;">After saying goodbye to Bill and Cornish, I made my way to Picton. I took the same Queen Charlotte scenic drive. The view was magnificent. I loved riding on this road even though its narrow and winding.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I arrived the pier early. Its easy to do the check in to board the Inter Islander ferry. The ferry departed on time. I enjoyed the view until theres no more isles to see when the ferry entered Cook Strait. The crew announced that the swell will be 3 meters at minimum. Its true and I started to feel a bit dizzy. So I decided to take a nap. By the time I woke up, the sea already calmed as the ferry was nearing Wellington. I get down to my bike and get ready to leave the ferry.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-68409515856136701772018-09-03T04:27:00.002-07:002018-09-03T04:27:34.550-07:00NEW ZEALAND PART 2: SOUTH ISLAND (PICTON - NELSON - FAREWELL SPIT - WHARARIKI BEACH - MOTUEKA VALLEY - WESTPORT - KARAMEA - SCOTTS BEACH - OPARARA - PUNAKAIKI - CHRISTCHURCH - LAKE TEKAPO - MT COOK NP - CROMWELL - DUNEDIN - INVERCARGILL - BLUFF - TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - LAKE MAHINAPUA - KAIKOURA - NELSON)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part 2 - The eastern route</td></tr>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>3<sup>rd</sup> Dec 2017, WELLINGTON - PICTON - NELSON</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After saying goodbye to my wonderful hosts, Bill and I made our way to Wellington which was about 30kms away. We stopped for a while at the beachfront to enjoy the view and took some pics. Then I trailed behind Bill to the jetty. Bill had purchased my ferry ticket online. FYI, the ticket price varied from time to time. It was ridiculously expensive before, during and after a festive occasion. My ticket to the south island today is NZD84, but for my return journey on 27<sup>th</sup> Dec, the price for the same journey but heading north is NZD148. Its also very important to check-in as early as possible at the booth near the jetty because sometimes, the ferry departed earlier than the scheduled time.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew and Edith, my host in Wellington</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bill and I</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I chatted with Bill in the ferry for a while but had to excuse myself when I felt a slight dizziness. I managed to doze off and awakened just in time when the ferry entered the passage of small isles of the South Island. Bill was outside and I joined him. The view was so so beautiful and I’m so glad that I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> miss it. I can see luxury yachts, speed boats and people playing jet ski. The sea was very blue and the mountains on the scattered small islands were so green. Bill told me that the overgrown of the natural plants on the small islands were a problem for the country.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vehicles inside the ferry</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The natural plants which was a problem for the country</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After 3:15 hours sailing, the ferry finally docked in Picton. We rushed to our bikes to get ready to leave the ferry. Bill had told me earlier to take the 35kms scenic but very narrow with lots of tight switchbacks Queen Charlotte Drive road and meet him at a restaurant in Havelock. He was a very </span>skilful<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> rider. Within 10 minutes, he was out of my sight. I rode alone slowly while enjoying the view. It was indeed a very scenic ride. The view was </span>soooo<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> beautiful.</span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found the restaurant, and Bill was surprised that it didnt take too long for me to arrive, only about 10 minutes behind him. His biker friend was with him. The seafood pizza which we had for lunch was so yummy. It was my first time tasting NZ prawns and mussels. The mussels were big and juicy. The taste was not the same as Msian mussels which were drier. I preferred NZ mussels much more.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">After lunch, we rode back to Bill’s home in Nelson. Again, I lost him after a while. The road to Nelson was in good condition but there were two big hills for me to tackle. I was getting worried because my bike was low on fuel. I found a petrol station but again, only credit card was accepted. There were some bikers here but unfortunately none wanna help me. Okay, so the brotherhood spirit were not as everywhere as I had thought earlier. HAHAHA. I had to ride very slowly and all the while whispering a silent prayer hoping that my bike can last until I found a petrol station in Nelson. Yes, it did, but only until Nelson, not the petrol pump which was </span></span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">2 kms away. I stopped a car asking for help. The nice guy asked me to wait while he drove back to his house nearby. He came back with a jerry can and poured some fuel for me. I thanked him for his help and rode straight to the petrol station to fill up my tank.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank you for helping me :)</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found Bill’s house without difficulty. Bill lived on a hill. His house was big and beautiful. He was </span>worrying<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> about my delay and I told him what had happened. I was introduced to her kind wife, Cornish. We chatted for a while at the balcony while enjoying the beautiful green view down the valley. How I wished I can have a house like this. Later in the evening, the couple treated me at a Malaysia restaurant. Bill ordered laksa, Cornish had fried noodles and I ordered chicken rendang which tasted more like curry, but delicious nevertheless.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>4<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, NELSON</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Today is my rest day at Bill’s house. I managed to wash the bike which was so dirty due to the rainy ride in North Island previously. I was so amazed to see Bill’s garage. He was a collector. He got approximately 40 bikes of different brands (mostly Ducatis and Bimotas) inside the garage and there were some which he had to put elsewhere because his garage was already full. He also had complete tools and machines to work on his bikes. Amazing.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of Bill's collection</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While in Nelson, the couple took me </span>for<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> sightseeing inside the town and we also went to see the port and sunset at a </span>view point<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As a token of appreciation, I offered to cook for them. Bill brought me to Countdown supermarket and we asked the butcher about halal meat. We were informed that all </span>sheeps<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and cows in NZ were slaughtered by </span>muslim<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> butchers so </span>its<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> halal. The only issue was the cutting table where the supermarket staff sliced the meat into smaller portions as it was shared for all kinds of meat including pork. We asked for a new meat (straight from the box and not yet processed). We headed home and I busied myself at the kitchen, cooking lamb </span>briyani<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> rice with lamb curry and stir fry mixed </span>vege<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. I am </span>sooo<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> glad that my hosts loved my cooking.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also took the time to study my upcoming route and answered to lots of messages in my inbox. Among the commonly asked was why was my bike stranded by the road side due to dried tank? The answers are:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1. The bike I’m using didnt have a fuel indicator, so I had no idea how much fuel left in the tank.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2. Not just that, when the fuel had reached reserved, the warning light didnt turn on automatically. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3. Seriously lack of petrol stations especially in the remote area in NZ...and I’m not riding at popular destinations only, I covered the road less travelled as well.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">4. Not all petrol stations here accept cash. Some only accept credit card. I’m reluctant to use my Malaysian credit card due to the ridiculous charges.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">5. The roads in NZ are not always flat but with lots of ascends and descends. There are times that I had to fight with the wind coming from front or sides. This makes it difficult for me to predict how much fuel had been used. On flat road and non-windy days, the full tank can last for 250kms, but there are times that the tank dried in less than 200kms covered because of using low gears and fighting head wind.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Conclusion, taking spare fuel is essential!!! </span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>5<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, NELSON - COLLINGWOOD</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I left Bill’s house after lunch. I stopped by at Pak n Save in Richmond (my favourite supermarket as things sold here were the cheapest compared to other outlets) to buy some groceries. My destination for today is Collingwood. I had to climb up Takaka Hill on route 60. As usual, the road was winding but the view of the valley was awesome<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had some difficulties finding my host’s house. My GPS (which I only used to find certain places) directed me to another house which I need to cross a small stream. The owner told me that my host’s house was next to him but I need to take another path. So I had to cross the stream once again. Fortunately I didnt drop the bike as the base was very rocky. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span> <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found the house and waited for my host, Joe Hambrook, to return home from work. Joe is an advrider whom I met during Horizons Unlimited event in Sumbawa last May. Joe finished his 6 years RTW ride few months back and now settled back in his homeland. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joe's cute house</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Joe arrived about an hour later. It was so nice meeting him again. Unfortunately, Joe had to work outstation for the next days, but he let me stay at his home. That night, as it was the eve of my birthday, Joe treated me dinner at a cafe. I had mussels soup eaten with gingerbread. Thanks </span>Joe<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">.</span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">6</span><sup style="color: #1d2129; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Dec 2017, WHARARIKI BEACH</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Happy 50<sup>th</sup> birthday to meeeeee. My bday was spent with a beautiful ride to Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach. This was the good things when you stayed with locals as they will advise you the bestest places at remote areas which normal tourists had no clue. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue water on the left, green on the right. Amazing.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To get here, I had to ride till the end of the paved road at Puponga village, followed by 6kms on gravels and finally, a nice 1km hike on rolling hills to the beach. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First sight of Wharariki Beach</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was a bit hard to walk on the thick soft sands for the last 300m but it worth all the effort. It took me 30 minutes to hike because of lots of stopping for pics. The viewwww...soooo lovely. What better way for an </span>advrider<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> to spend a bday than being on a secluded beautiful beach with a nice bar of dark choc given by Bill?</span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #1d2129;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I enjoyed the beach and sea view from a small hill for about 2 hours. The beach was deserted. Less than 10 people on a beautiful white sandy beach with the very blue waters. What more can I ask on a bday? Almost every year since the past 7 years, I celebrated my bday alone outside Msia, but I never regret it at all. In fact, I’m enjoying every moment of it. TQ Allah for another year of life, the good health, the rezeki, and all the nikmat and travel opportunities that You gave me. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the bushes</td></tr>
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<b style="background-color: transparent; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">7<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, COLLINGWOOD - MOTUEKA VALLEY - WESTPORT - KARAMEA</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I couldnt sleep last night. I had no idea why. Maybe because of the quietness of Joe’s house which was surrounded with lots of trees and a bit inside from the main road. Its too quiet that if I drop a pin on the floor, I can hear it. I managed to doze off for 2 hours or so. Around 8am, I packed my things and leave. I should ride to Abel Tasman NP as the view was said to be very beautiful. However, its a long ride today and its going to take 2 hours return trip to get there as the road to Abel Tasman was narrow and winding, so I had to give it a miss. I took the same route 60 passing by Takaka Hill. Then I turned right at Motueka and took <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">Motueka Valley Road and route 6 along greenish Buller River. The road was very quiet but beautiful. Only once in a while, I saw other vehicles. Gone were the green grasses which I had witnessed since the past 2 weeks and was replaced by orange and yellow views. The wind was pretty wild but still tolerable. I had been riding almost 8hrs but only managed to cover 300kms due to stopping frequently for pics. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I saw this unique tree at Motueka Valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Buller River</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stopped at Westport for a short break and to use internet as I’m not sure if the place I’m heading today has data coverage or not. After that I continued for another 100kms more along the coast on route 67 to reach Karamea. The Karamea Highway was very deserted, narrow, winding and climbing. There were few stretches where the road was broken due to landslides. I was so tired by the time I reached my destination. I went straight to Karamea Holiday Park campground but the fees were expensive. I searched for another place and settled at Karamea Domain campground which also had dorm beds. I paid NZD28 (for 2 nights at the dorm). I made friends with Dominic, Tom and Nadia and we agreed to go sightseeing together the next day.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>8<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, KARAMEA</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After breakfast, we hopped into Dominic’s car and drove to the end of the road at Kohaihai Shelter. This place was in Kahurangi National Park. Then we trekked for 3kms to Scotts Beach. This was the reason why I rode so far to Karamea, to see this beach. It took us 2 hours return trip by foot. It was pretty exhausting for me as the track was on rolling hills. This same track was also part of the 4 days 82kms Heaphy Track (one of the nine great NZ walks). I was amazed to see some veterans carrying their heavy backpacks doing this track whilst I was huffing and puffing after only 3kms of trekking. However, as the saying goes, “no pain, no gain.” The super awesome secluded Scotts Beach was sooo clean and soooo beautiful, I dont wanna leave. I was sooo grateful to my NZ friends for telling me about this remote beach as I wouldnt know of its existence if they didnt tell me. There were only us and two other people here. It was amazing to watch the huge waves crashing the beach. How nice if I can pitch my tent here, but as at Wharariki Beach, theres no campground on the beach here and wild camping are strictly prohibited.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sway bridge at the beginning of the track</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first sight of Scotts Beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally...</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After we get back to the car park, we went to for another hike. It was 32kms (return) on rough gravels to reach the site but its well worth the effort. We hiked for another 3 hours more, making a loop, ascending and descending the Oparara Track to see the Oparara Arch, Moira Gate and the Mirror Lake. The view of the lime caves was stunning, but by now my legs are screaming. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My trekking buddies</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>9<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, KARAMEA - CAPE FOULWIND - PUNAKAIKI PANCAKE ROCKS - ARTHURS PASS - CASTLE HILL - CHRISTCHURCH</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Its a looonggg journey of 450kms today. I started from Karamea in the morning taking the same way back to Westport. <span class="textexposedshow">My 1st stop was Cape Foulwind and the Seal Colony at Tauranga Bay. Its a 16kms detour from Westport to reach here. I need to hike a little bit to reach the viewpoint. I'm lucky to be able to see some seals. Can u see them in the pics? They disguised really well. It was amazing to see them hopping on the rocks and swam in the sea like a pro, and struggled to get back to shore as the waves were huge and they got slammed on the rocks. As my destination was still far, I could only watch them for 30mins even though I felt that I can spend all day watching them. Do u know that seals can swim at 30kmh speed?</span><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I saw a deer farm while riding on Wilsons Lead Road to get back to the highway. I couldnt help but to stop by the roadside to admire them. The deers came running to the fence upon hearing my bike’s engine sound. The sight of their ears perked and their big curious eyes looking at me was the 2<sup>nd</sup> cutest sight that I had seen in my life (the 1<sup>st</sup> will be the marmot’s act in Kyrgyzstan mountains). How I laughed upon watching them.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">Then I continued riding south via route 6. The weather was sometimes very cloudy and at other times, theres little sunlight. However the wind was blowing like real crazy and I was worried of my ride along the coast.</span></span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"> Few times the wind gusts shoved me, but I can still control my bike. My next stop was Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. I had been here during my NZ first visit in 2002 but I revisit to see what had changed in 15 years. Indeed there were some changes on the limestone rock erosions. Also the walkway was longer now compared to before. Last time you could only view the flat part from a distance away (which a Msian gymnast, forgot her name, did somersaults for MILO commercial), but now the improved walkway enabled me to see the pancake layers really up close. I<span class="textexposedshow">ts an amazing sight of how wind, temperature and salt managed to give effect on such rocks. Subhanallah for His creations.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="textexposedshow" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">I stopped for fuel at Greymouth. I remembered my horror experience staying at a haunted YHA Hostel here, way back in 2002 (not knowing that I will experience the same for tonight). I continued riding and upon reaching Kumara Junction, I took the left turning via route 73. </span></span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">It was raining as I ascended the narrow road to Arthurs Pass so I had to ride really carefully. </span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span> <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">It was cold and I was freezing. Fortunately the rain stopped after the pass and I was blessed with a very breathtaking view which amazed me so much. The most beautiful scenic road in NZ, I must say. The view seemed like Kyrgyzstan + Mongolia + Utah combined together. I’m sure it would have been lovelier if theres enough sunshine. Unfortunately the sun was too shy and the wind was crazy. I was shoved few times, but not as bad as the other day at Rimutaka Hill. Besides, there were very few vehicles on this road so its not that stressful.</span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My next stop was Castle Hill. I was already tired and cold by this time, so I didnt feel like walking anymore.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">Finally, I reached Christchurch after riding 450kms in 10 hours (inclusive of refuel and sightseeing stops). In Malaysia, I can do 450kms in 4 hours (or less), but not here in NZ. Especially when </span></span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">the road was winding, wet and slippery. Dont be overconfident to speed when it rained. There were plenty of warning signs showing ‘slippery when wet’ road. You may have the greatest riding skill, but the road might not compromise with you.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I checked in at an Air BnB house which owned by a Chinese family. I was surprised to know that I was the only occupant in the whole house which was newly renovated. </span>Theres<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> no facility in the house except a kitchen cabinet, a fridge, a kettle and a bed and a small table in my room. I was told that the owner just bought this house and I am his first tenant. I was happy to get one whole house for the price of a room. I’m sure I will get a decent sleep tonight. Not like sleeping in dorms where lots of concerts being played throughout the night. But how wrong I was.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After showered, prayed and rested a little bit, My Malaysian biker friend, Fendi Lokman arrived. He and his friends from OBAMA Bikers were done riding in NZ and they were having a BBQ party that night. I followed them to their rented apartment and met the whole group and their families. Delicious BBQ lamb, chicken, mutton and other variety of foods were served. I loved the lasagne made by one of them, so yummy. I chatted with Dato Faizal, Nazli and the others while eating. To my surprise, they also celebrated my birthday. <span class="textexposedshow">Never did I celebrate own bday abroad with a bday cake. This was the very 1st time. </span>I was almost into tears for their thoughts. Thank you very much<span class="textexposedshow"> Fendi and the whole group for making this year a special one for me.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fendi sends me back to my apartment at 11am. Around 12.30am, while I was about to doze off, I heard funny noises from the room next door. What was that? Suddenly, I heard a loud door slam sound which made my heart throbbed like a machine gun vomiting bullets from its mouth. I sat on my bed and tried to focus. I remembered checking all the other rooms this afternoon, and obviously, the only room with furniture was in my room. But how come I heard the sound of rusty hinge of a cupboard door being opened and closed? How come theres a squeaking sound of someone changing position on a rusty wooden bed? <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was very scared. I dared not move from my bed. My eyes fixed on the door, ready to jump if someone/something enters my room. There were times that the sound was so loud, I felt like my heart was being ripped off. I put up a post on FB telling what had happened and received lots of replies. Some insensitive so-called friends regard my post as funny. Yeah, its very funny. Wait until you experience it yourself, all alone in a foreign place, and tell me how do you feel...and thats if you dont die of a heart attack. Dont worry, I promise not to laugh.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>10<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, CHRISTCHURCH</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I survived the whole night without sleeping a wink. Imagine...after a very exhaustive ride from Karamea to ChCh, and returning to my room with a very full stomach from the BBQ party, I ended with no sleep at all. The scary sounds finally stopped nearing sunrise. I was so sleepy by then but all I wanted was to get out of this house ASAP. I’m supposed to stay here for 2 nights (and had already paid). However, after what had happened, I contacted the owner and asked for a refund for the 2<sup>nd</sup> night. Fortunately he understood. I checked in at another Air BnB, and this time I got a room in a family’s home. It was expensive for my budget, NZD50 per night, but I was tired and sleepy. So I slept the whole day and night to make sure the money I paid really worth it. HAHAHA...<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>11<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, CHRISTCHURCH - LAKE TEKAPO</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I should visit Akaroa yesterday but I had to forgo it due to sleeping the whole day to recharge. Never mind, perhaps some other time. My destination for today is Lake Tekapo. The weather was so-so, but the ride was so <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">scenic via route 79 – 8. Lupines were blooming everywhere. It was soooo colourful. Being a flower lover, I had to stop now and then for pics. I even brought my bike into the flower beds. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Arriving Tekapo, I stopped at </span>Church<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> of Good Shepherd for more pics. This place is a must visit in Tekapo and perhaps the most photographed in NZ. </span>Its<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> a very small one, more like a chapel. The view of Lake Tekapo was beautiful as well. I met an </span>advrider<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> from </span>UK<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> here and we chatted for a while.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I rode to Lake Tekapo Holiday Park. I pitched my tent </span>at<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> the best spot I can find. The fee is the most expensive throughout the entire campsites which I camped in NZ (NZD22 per night) but the security and facility were superb. I went for a stroll in the afternoon. </span>Theres<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> a hot steam bath center nearby but the entrance fee was not in my budget. During the night, I spent the time on the beach chair looking up the sky. Tekapo was said as the best place to stargaze in NZ. Indeed it was. Millions of stars twinkling and milky way appeared soon after. I was in awe looking at it. Subhanallah...</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>12<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, LAKE TEKAPO - MT COOK NP</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I continued my ride from Lake Tekapo to Mt Cook via Lake Pukaki. Its only 103km in distance. The weather is unpredictable but the views were magnificent. Blue lakes with the background of snow peak mountain and the blooming lupines....Its very picturesque. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span> <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stopped at Lavender Farm. To my surprise, a group of Malaysian tourists was there and one of them was my follower. She recognized me straight away and called her friends for a selfie with me. It took about 10 minutes to entertain them. I should have charged NZD10 per pic taken with me and I can use the money for my fuel, dont you think so? HAHAHA...I’m just kidding.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A souvenir shop at the farm</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I continued riding to Mt Cook National Park. As I’m nearing the end of route 80, the view of the gigantic Mt Cook came into view. It was magnificent. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Pukaki</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found White Horse Hill campground and searched for a place to pitch my tent. It was a weekday, but there were too many people at this campground. After taking a short nap, I trekked the fame Hooker Valley Track. The 10kms trekking took 3 hours (return). The view of Mueller Lake and the bushes along the way were charming in its own way. I had to cross 3 bridges (including a swing bridge) to reach the edge of Hooker Lake. It was quite a walk. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The reason why I trekked is to witness glaciers and icebergs on the lake. I had never seen an iceberg before. It was an incredible sight. The rivers and lakes were greyish in </span>colour<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, perhaps due to the sediments from the glaciers. I can only spend 10mins at this viewpoint as I was freezing. The wind was blowing like crazy and the sun was hiding behind thick clouds. Brrrrrrr...</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On my way back, again I bumped into a Msian family who also recognized who I was. After a quick conversation and photos, I hurried back to my campsite before it gets dark. The temperature dropped as night fallen. I cooked macaroni for dinner and then retire for the night. I woke up in the middle of the night in need </span>for<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> the toilet and was in awe looking at the brightly lit sky above my head. It got colder after midnight being the lowest at 8’C, but I was comfortable in my tent. Why? Because I was ready this time with a better sleeping bag and a fleece blanket to keep me warm.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>13<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, MT COOK NP - CROMWELL - MOSGIEL</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was chilly in the morning as it was cloudy. However, it was not so bad until the rain fall as I was heading to Twizel. I was lazy to stop but it was very cold due to the rain and wind, so I had no choice but to stop by the roadside and put on my Givi raincoat, Hevik buff and balaclava and the heated gloves from USA which my friend Deborah bought for me. The heated gloves were heaven and I felt warm instantly. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lindys Pass</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stopped at Cromwell which was a must in NZ. Cromwell was famed for its orchards and fruit ice cream. I took the opportunity to taste the ice cream. Mmmm...sweet and yummy. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I continued riding via route 8 – 85 – 87 (passing by Cromwell Gorge – Clyde – Middlemarch) as suggested by Bill. Indeed it was a very scenic ride. The view of </span>Clutha<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> River was beautiful and the moment I rode on route 87, I felt as if I’m not on earth. The view was yellowish and very barren. It was like I’m </span>on<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> a different planet.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was enjoying the ride until suddenly the rainfall again. I thought it was only for a short while as the sky far ahead looked bright so I didnt stop to put on my rain gadget. However, I was wrong. The rain became heavier and I was totally soaked to the bones. I was shivering in and out. My mistake.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYdpNtFIRmNJIa66Ix7x8vTDDTkntFtZPerawLNRqPMUreKrxH2TbFWi381j3sT6s4NdG51hiKHMEi63ULLJaGM3XhKms0ahP6dVRJEKAttX4x3EnRPS4rlM_zSVNGOMzcIf_h0MPAYo/s1600/P1170718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYdpNtFIRmNJIa66Ix7x8vTDDTkntFtZPerawLNRqPMUreKrxH2TbFWi381j3sT6s4NdG51hiKHMEi63ULLJaGM3XhKms0ahP6dVRJEKAttX4x3EnRPS4rlM_zSVNGOMzcIf_h0MPAYo/s400/P1170718.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A traditional water spray</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhhh noooooo!!!!</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ride became more stressful when the vision was dropped to 10 meters only due to thick fog. I was very tired, cold and hungry, but I still had 65kms more to reach my host’s house.</span></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The narrow winding road didnt give me any excitement anymore. I was struggling to finish the ride. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span> <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally, I arrived Mosgiel during sundown and was welcomed warmly by my hosts, Alex and Mary Cockburn. I was showed to my room to change and Mary made me a hot dinner and coffee. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>14<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, DUNEDIN</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Today is my rest day. Alex who was a retiree took me out for sightseeing in his Mercedes. We drove to Orokonui Ecosanctuary. This place was a wildlife refugee center. We chatted at the observatory cafe and witnessed the green surrounding us from the glass while having coffee. Alex and all my other hosts were bikers and were linked to me by either Bill or Heather. Alex told me his riding adventures and it was fun to listen.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After that we drove down to Port Chalmers and view the port from a hill. The view was nice. I really loved the blue sea. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We also drove inside Dunedin and I asked Alex to drive me to Otago University. This was my lecturer’s university (Prof Dr Md Amin). I had been here in 2002. It was nice to stroll around and see the architecture of the buildings which strongly had British influence.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We then headed back home. Too bad I </span>cant<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> see the albatross as now is not the season. Upon reaching home, Mary took me out to the supermarket to buy groceries as I had promised to cook for dinner. The menu was sweet n sour fish and stir-fry broccoli with carrots.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After </span>dinner<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> we chatted </span>at<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> the living room while sipping coffee. I enjoyed listening to Mary. She was a great storyteller. She talked about her kids, </span>daughter-in-laws<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and her grandkid. Her eyes twinkled while talking to show how much she was proud of her boys. I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> realize the clock ticking when listening to her. The next thing I knew, it was already 11pm.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>15<sup>th</sup> Dec 2017, MOSGIEL - INVERCARGILL - BLUFF - WINTON</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I said goodbye to my kind hosts and rode south via Route 1. According to Alex’s suggestion, I should visit Nugget Point Lighthouse and then follow the Southern Scenic Route. It was a bit difficult to find Nugget Point as I’m not using any navigator, but I found it anyway. I had to trek for about 20 minutes to reach the lighthouse and along the way, I could hear the seals howling a sad cry. The view was not so great because it was cloudy.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The track to the lighthouse</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My next stop was Purakaunui Falls. I had to ride on gravels for about 5kms and then walked 1km to reach the falls. I met Malaysian people again but I just smiled at them. The falls were not as beautiful as in internet pics.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I continued riding via Southern Scenic Route. There were lots of trees here. As I was bypassing Catlins Conservation Park, I started to feel the crosswind. It gets stronger and stronger and was really blowing when I reached Invercargill. Dato Siti Nurhaliza’s husband had a serious fall here while riding his rented motorbike a few years ago, due to the wind. I assumed the wind speed was 50kmh, enough to blow my light bike if I didnt ride with a suitable speed. It was scary, but my previous hosts had thought me how to deal with the situation. I should ride with accordingly speed, not fast and not slow. It was quite a tough ride but I had to hang on for another 30kms to reach Bluff, the southernmost of the south island, NZ.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">However, the tiredness released upon finally rolling my wheels at the end of the road at Sterling Point. I parked my bike in front of the famous sign and posed for pics. There were some tourists from Singapore and a busload with European tourists. They gave me a loud applause when they find out that I'm riding solo in NZ and finally reached the southern tip after a journey of 5000km. Girls power, they said. It was a proud moment for me :)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The end of the road</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I rode the same way back to Invercargill. I was supposed to visit Bill Richardson Transport World, a huge museum displaying all kinds of land transport, but I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> have enough time. I only posed outside the museum.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I sped as fast as I can to Winton. As I rode further away from Bluff, the wind lessened and I finally reached my host’s house around 5pm. </span><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">My hosts, Jan and Phil had been waiting for me. They used to live in Msia for few years. Their daughter Sarah was babysitted by my bff </span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Deborah <span style="color: #1d2129;">sometimes then. Deb was the one linking me with them. They had a nice big house which was not actually built on this spot. Phil showed me pics and videos of how the house which was built at another place but transported to the current location. It was an amazing technology.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had promised to cook curry for them so I busied myself at the kitchen. Jan had purchased halal beef from the supermarket. We chatted while cooking. I couldnt help laughing when I saw Jan’s pestle and mortar. She admitted that it was brought from Msia. She had a cabinet fool of herbs and spices to cook Asian food. It made my cooking a lot easier. Sarah and her husband Greg arrived before dinner with their kids and we had dinner together. Thank god they loved my cooking. As a matter of fact, they loved Msian food so nasi lemak, roti canai, roti telur, rendang etc were mentioned in our conversation. Phil also asked me about the political situation in Msia as he knew a little bit of whats going on in my country.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-47298208879936530622018-09-02T05:11:00.000-07:002018-09-02T21:49:33.048-07:00NEW ZEALAND PART 1: NORTH ISLAND (AUCKLAND - KAITAIA - CAPE REINGA - KAWAKAWA - COROMANDEL - OPOTIKI - TOLAGA BAY - LAKE TUTIRA - WELLINGTON)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Very sorry for the long delay. Better late than never, right? So I was doubting, where must I ride for my year-end holidays? Given that its year-end, the northern hemisphere will be chilly as its going to be mid autumn changing to winter, so its not appropriate to ride in the north at this time of the year. It left me with options, either South America (again?), Africa, Australia and New Zealand (apart from South East Asia which I had done many times before and dont feel like repeating). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finally chose NZ to ride. Approx three months prior, I was contacted by Matthew, a rider from the States whom I met at Sumbawa during Horizons Unlimited event, asking to meet me in Ipoh. During our conversation, I told Matthew about my intention to ride in NZ, and Matthew who rode in NZ prior to Australia, Indonesia and Malaysia, linked me with his NZ friend, Bill Irwin. The latter happened to be one of the kindest soul I had met in my entire life. We started emailing each other and Bill promised to help me find a bike when I decided not to bring my own as air freight and carnet fees will be pricey. I was surprised when Bill told me later that he had actually BOUGHT a second hand bike for me to use, a Suzuki GN250. I was thrilled. No one has done that to me before (and I never expect anyone would). He was such an angel. Not just that, he also helped to plot my route in South Island, and linked me with his friends, John and Heather in Auckland. The bike was stored at the latter’s home in Auckland, waiting for me to arrive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While Bill is the owner of the newly purchased bike, John is a mechanic. Under Bill’s request, he helped to prepare the bike for me such as changing the tires, engine oil, chain and fixing a usb charger on the bike. Both Bill and John didnt charge me a single cent for everything that had been done on the bike. I was so lucky and grateful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>DAY 1 & 2: 22<sup>nd</sup> – 23<sup>rd</sup> Nov 2017, KUL - GOLD COAST - AKL</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I boarded Airasia flight from KUL to Auckland via Gold Coast. It was a long 12 hours flight and I was pretty exhausted. I a<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">rrived Auckland International Airport at 5.40pm local time. I had to spend more than 1 hour for customs declaration and had to go through a very strict inspection. Fortunately I did my research and I knew that I must prepare a list of all food that I had with me, and make sure that its commercially packed (canned, packaged, bottled). Strictly no fresh produce from plants, animals and dairy products. Declare every single thing. Ask if you are unsure of anything. Give the list to the officer in charge to smoothen the inspection. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">Walla, my entire food ration passed the inspection. The officer inspected my tent as well to make sure no soil was taken into the country. (Yes, its very strict.) If you wanna avoid hassles, bring a new (never used) tent.</span><span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"> <span style="background: white;">Once done, I exited the arrival hall and was welcomed warmly by John and Heather who kindly offered to fetch me at the airport. I was taken <span class="textexposedshow">to their nice home at the northern part of Auckland. The road was quite heavy with traffic as it was peak hour. I took the opportunity to check on the locals driving attitude and to my relief, New Zealanders driving attitude were good. We had a lovely dinner later, accompanied by Haakan and Georgia, (friends of my hosts), who owned a two wheels tour company in AKL. Spinach fritata, potatoes in curry, fruit salad and bread were served for dinner. Heather is a great cook and I really had a feast. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From left: Myself, Heather, John, Haakan and Georgia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yummyyy....fresh fruits with ice cream</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white;"><span class="textexposedshow">While having dinner, we discussed about my route and John and Haakan gave me lots of tips for my upcoming ride in this Kiwi country.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NZ PART 1 is the blue route</td></tr>
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Day 3: 24<sup>th</sup> Nov 2017, AUCKLAND - KAITAIA </b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: white;">After breakfast, I went down to the garage to see the bike which is going to be mine for my ride in the 5</span><sup>th</sup><span style="background-color: white;"> continent (Oceania) for me, New Zealand (thank you </span>Bill<span style="background-color: white;">). The 2006 Suzuki GN250 is12 years old, but who cares, as long it works fine and takes me where ever I want to go, its good enough for me. Before setting off, Heather took me to a nearby mall for me to purchase NZ </span>simcard<span style="background-color: white;">. It was quite pricey, NZD35 for 28 days usage. Back home, I packed my things into Givi soft cases which were given to me by Givi SRL Italy. The cases fit on the bike nicely. Later, I said goodbye to Heather while John </span>leads<span style="background-color: white;"> me for about 40kms out of the city, and after </span>that<span style="background-color: white;"> I’m on my own.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There's actually a straight Motorway 1 heading north but I chose to ride the back road via route 16 - 12, passing two nice forest parks. The road was very quiet, winding with rolling hills and it was pretty chilly bcos it was drizzling on and off. The road was slippery when wet and theres a lot of signs warning vehicles to be careful. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the trees here</td></tr>
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<span class="textexposedshow" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The road continued to wind and I started to climb up a mountain which was quite steep and when I reached the highest point, something really funny happened.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">FYI, this bike had a 10L fuel tank and it didnt has a fuel indicator. I had no idea how far it can go (nor did Bill and John, as they never tried the bike). The first time I refill petrol earlier, I had ridden 135kms and only half of the tank was used. So my mind calculated that full tank will be approximately 270kms. I had done 230kms when I reached the highest point of the mountain road when suddenly the engine died. Theres no petrol station I could find after the ferry ride. When the engine died, I knew that the tank must have been dried up already. This is the first time ever that I ran out of petrol during my entire advriding history. Luckily I already reached the peak of the mountain road, so I let gravity pulled me and the bike for another 5kms or so, descending slowly until the bike finally stopped. I checked my GPS, the nearest petrol station is in Kaitaia, 20kms away. Its almost dark by that time and the road was very quiet. I had to wait quite a while before a car passed. I waved, and the nice Maori driver stopped. However, he was in a hurry and couldnt take me to the petrol station. He drove me to the nearest house (1km from where I left the bike) for me to try my luck. New Zealanders, especially in the remote area, normally kept some petrol at home for their own use. I was so fortunate that the house owner had some fuel in his red jerry can, well not much actually, only about 1L, but it managed to get me into town. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finally reached my host's house at 8.30pm after riding 400kms today. Si, my host is a very nice guy. He was originally from Cook Island (one very tiny island in the middle of South Pacific Ocean). He made dinner for me and showed me a video of his home island. It was so lovely, but not cheap to go. We talked for a while and made a plan for tomorrow before I retire to bed. It was a long day for me.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Si made rice with tuna and veges for me. Thx Si :)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129;">Day 4: 25</span><sup style="color: #1d2129;">th</sup><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129;"> Nov 2017, KAITAIA - CAPE REINGA </span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;">The good thing when you stayed with a local host is you get to see what normal tourist couldnt see. But the not so good thing is when the host is not a motorcyclist, they might not give you accurate advice on the road condition.</span><span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"> <span style="background: white;">My host brought me up to a 'secret' cliff to get a birds-eye view of 90 Mile Beach. He said that the last part of the road is not accessible by car but easy for a motorbike. I followed his car to the place where he finally stopped and parked his car. He pointed me the direction while he walked and I continued riding. It was 3kms of steep climb on multi-terrain - soft sands, some sunken 4WD’s track which sunk up to my knees, some gravel parts and some puddles. Yes, I did see some dirt bike riders up here, but the GN250 with street tires I’m riding was not made for this kind of track. HAHAHA...it was quite challenging but I survived. It was actually quite fun too. </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Which way now?</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white;">Sadly it was a cloudy day. So the view of the ocean from the cliff of 90 Mile Beach was not as blue. It was said that during low tide, one could ride or drive on this beach all the way to Cape Reinga, the northernmost of NZ (thats how this place got its name), but it was not advisable to do it. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view of 90 Mile Beach from the viewpoint up the cliff</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After some photo sessions, we went back to Si’s house. I only took what I need for my ride and rode 100kms on a nice hilly twisties but I was freezing due to some drizzles. The road, as usual, was quiet. Lots of green grasslands and wildflowers could be seen. Once in a while, I bumped into tourists motorhomes or campervans, all heading or coming from the northernmost of NZ, Cape Reinga. I refuel at the last station which was about 20kms from the Cape and stopped few times for pics enroute. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I loveeee deserted road</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finally reached the visitor center, parked my bike and walked about 800m to the famous lighthouse. The view of the Tasman Sea crashing over the rocks down below made me so much in awe looking at how beautiful is God’s creation.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I spent about 1 hour here, just lazing and enjoying the waves and the view. Then I get back to my bike and ride to search for a campsite. The apps which I used to find campsites in NZ was Rankers Camping NZ. It was a very useful app and I used it for the entire trip in NZ. However, this app need internet to function. Not a problem for me because I already have my NZ sim card installed on my hp. The cheapest campground was normally the one operated by the Department of Conservation (DOC), offering basic facilities, while the best facility campsite is the holiday parks, but much more expensive. Please bear in mind that freedom camping is strictly not allowed in NZ except for self-contained motorhomes only. If you are caught, the fine is hefty.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found Camp Tapotupotu on the apps and rode on gravels for about 3kms to reach the place. The view was incredible as I made my descent to the campground. I chose my spot, a lovely beachfront site, away from other people. There was no DOC’s officer in charge here, but one must pay the fee (NZD8) in a box. I cooked a simple dinner and retired early for the night. I didnt get a good night sleep as I didnt feel comfortable. My mistake of being lazy not to use my air mattress because I thought the soft grass was enough but it wasnt. Well, age factor...sigh...<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Camp Tapotupoyu</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Day 5<sup>th</sup>: 26 Nov 2017, CAPE REINGA - PAIHIA - KAWAKAWA<o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I took my time lazing and enjoying the beach view, and also practiced my Spanish with some tourists from Argentina before packing my things back on the bike. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gd morning world</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I made my way south, stopping first at the famous Giant Sand Dunes. It was a 4kms offroad ride to reach this place. This is the biggest sand dunes in NZ. You can play sand boarding here and the board rental fee is NZD8 – 10. I only prefer to watch but not to play. Riding solo, I need to be more careful with my outdoor activities. Should anything bad happen to me, who is going to look after me?</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Giant Sand Dunes</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span> <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From the sand dunes, I rode to Paihia via route 10 and 11. Paihia is a nice beach resort town on the north island. I waited for a friend to fetch me at a petrol station which faced the beautiful sea. Roger came soon after and I followed him to his house at a very secluded hill in Kawakawa. It was a steep offroad ride to reach his house and I was quite worried if I cant handle the bike. Fortunately, I managed it. Roger had some friends coming for dinner and we spent the time chatting about my plan in NZ.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roger, my host @ Kawakawa</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Day 6<sup>th</sup>: 27 Nov 2017, KAWAKAWA - COROMANDEL </b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are lots of offroad opportunities in NZ, especially in the north island which was pretty neglected by the government. Throughout my ride, I noticed that only the main road is paved, while the one which branches out from the main road is not. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was raining in the morning when I want to leave Roger’s house. The gravels w</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">re wet and I </span>didnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> have the confidence to ride the bike down the 800m steep path from his house to the main road, afraid if I dropped the bike and damaged it. I am always extra careful when the bike I’m riding </span>wasnt<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> mine. Roger helped to ride the bike down while I trailed behind. I said thanks and waved goodbye to him and made my way south via Motorway 1. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The highway became busier when I’m nearing Auckland. For information, there are several stretches in the north island of NZ has tolls (which motorbikes are not exempted), and you must register online to use the road. There is no toll booth for you to take your ticket or to pay your toll at the end of the stretch. Since Heather had helped to register my bike on the online toll payment website, I happily took the toll road. </span>Its<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> not expensive for motorbikes, only about NZD2 – NZD3, but certainly significant in making your journey a lot faster than taking the secondary road.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After bypassing Auckland, I continued on route 1 – 2 – 25. I need to reach Thames ASAP bcos a Malaysian traveler wanna meet me. I arrived at the small town earlier than him and started to look around for a place to relax and have a chat. I found a Chinese restaurant and while I’m parking my bike, a car stopped abruptly next to me which made me jumped. Before I can curse the driver, a head poked out from the window and greeted me. It was him, Jeroong Wia or his real name is Wan. He bought me lunch and we had a nice 2 hours conversation at the restaurant. We also went to PakNSave, a big hypermarket similar to Tesco to buy groceries. Wan showed me a sausage brand Tegel which is halal to eat. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and Wan @ Jeerong Wia</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We then parted and I followed the coast of Coromandel to my designated campground at Tapu. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ride was lovely. Even though the road was pretty narrow, the fine weather and the blue sea made the ride so enjoyable. I found the campground (NZD17) and searched for a nice place to pitch my tent. I settled at a spot next to a renovated 4WD. The owner was not around so I took a moment to admire his vehicle. If only I can own one like this. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I then pitched my tent and enjoyed a very beautiful sunset. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The 4WD owner returned with his kayak (yes, he got a kayak with him) with his catch. His name is Lawrence. He’s a Zimbabwean Chinese but had resided in NZ for more than 10 years. He invited me to have dinner with him. He grilled the freshly caught fish. It tasted so good. We chatted while eating and he told me that he sold his computer business and had been traveling around NZ for a year and a half. He also designed his 4WD compartments and did all the electrical things himself. When asked if he encountered any danger while kayaking to fish, he told me about his encounters with sharks and the danger of big waves which almost crashed his kayak.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>28<sup>th</sup> Nov 2017:, COROMANDEL - HAHEI - CATHEDRAL COVE - TAURANGA - OPOTIKI</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was a looonggg ride today. I started with a ride around the Coromandel Peninsular, following route 25. The road was narrow with lots of twisties. I cant ride fast but I didnt mind because the view took my breath away. If only I have a drone which can capture my act from above. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stopped at Hahei Beach, but I couldnt hike to the famous Cathedral Cove because its going to take me 1:30 hrs so the only opportunity was to take a boat. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral Cove</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hahei Beach</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After some time spent there, I continued to Hot Water Beach, but theres an entrance fee, so I forgo the idea. As I was getting late, I raced south and the road got wider when I rode on route 2. There was a massive traffic jam as I approached Tauranga as it was 5.30pm and there were roadworks. I tried to be patient in the beginning, queuing as the other vehicles, but there was no movement at all. I am not going to reach my destination before sundown if this continues so I rode on the shoulder. After a while, I heard someone shouting at me, “Damn you mother fucker!!” I knew it was meant for me because I cut the queue, but I just ignored it. FYI, in NZ, motorbikes must queue just like other vehicles, at the traffic light, roundabout or traffic jam. Its not like in Malaysia where motorbikes can lane split and move straight to the front. I rode carefully while scanning the area, ready to get back in lane if there are traffic policemen around. Normally, I followed the road rules especially in a foreign country, however, I’m glad that I didnt this time because the jam was 10kms long!!! Once the road was clear, I sped as fast as I can but I still couldnt reach my destination on time. As the sun was setting, I made up my mind to stop at Opotiki instead. I checked the apps on my phone and headed to Island Bay View Holiday Park. Finally, after riding for 10 hours today, I settled at a nice 4 bedded dorm (but only myself occupying it). Since I was very tired and the place was beautiful, I decided to stay here for 2 nights to recharge. The fees were NZD25 per night but it was worth it.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>29<sup>th</sup> Nov 2017, OPOTIKI</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Today is my rest day. So I didnt do anything much but sleeping, eating and just chillaxing by the beach while viewing the South Pacific Ocean. The last time I viewed an open sea like this was when I camped at Alexandroupoli in Greece. The nice feelings gave me the mood to write. As I’m just about to continue writing for the 2<sup>nd</sup> serial of GDR, I saw a couple walking nude on the beach. Ouchhh. There goes my idea in the sea. HAHAHA...<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>30<sup>th</sup> Nov 2017:, OPOTIKI - WAIHAU BAY - TOLAGA BAY</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I felt energized after taking a break yesterday and ready to continue. It was a beautiful ride along route 35 which followed the coast most of the times. I found that I paid more attention on the sea rather than the road. At times, I passed a beautiful countryside with green grassland, and lots of sheep and cow fields. At other times, there were lots of twisties and tight switchbacks. I'm always alone on the quiet narrow road except when passing small villages. The weather was very funny here. At one time its bright and sunny, the next minute its cloudy and rainfall soon after. However, the view was nice. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDSG17truRZ3neoxc0tg-L3vcxukwdV2VmYbZa1pjv48r_900BRTIpCP9atlV-MCFOFkFJFGqdKxXVc4vMq_VENOQTLkjL2fukX99U9qnb-BcPLpcQnx4DNWp9SDrhkOJqG-GXJ3c13c/s1600/P1170082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDSG17truRZ3neoxc0tg-L3vcxukwdV2VmYbZa1pjv48r_900BRTIpCP9atlV-MCFOFkFJFGqdKxXVc4vMq_VENOQTLkjL2fukX99U9qnb-BcPLpcQnx4DNWp9SDrhkOJqG-GXJ3c13c/s640/P1170082.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love the tree fence</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubMb3qo2xV4dQQhDIva_wYpwYWbFf5zjTHvmtbZvpLIhg2AFwySMbyJmC2HpPIGE4zUcBScLagrznaP06Cm9ghcXONR11xhWX4QQE8_yOL1Y132xKXtBXi-6ry8lJ-KiBybmcTZMALH8/s1600/P1170083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubMb3qo2xV4dQQhDIva_wYpwYWbFf5zjTHvmtbZvpLIhg2AFwySMbyJmC2HpPIGE4zUcBScLagrznaP06Cm9ghcXONR11xhWX4QQE8_yOL1Y132xKXtBXi-6ry8lJ-KiBybmcTZMALH8/s640/P1170083.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and the tree tunnel</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My bike almost ran out of fuel after passing Waihau Bay. Fuel stations are scarce here, and the lack of fuel meter on the bike plus the constant ascends and descends made matters worse. I stopped to check for the nearest station on Google map. There were two stations at Te Araroa which was about 50kms away. I rode slowly to save fuel.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I reached the place, only one was opened and it only accepted credit card. I didnt want to use my Malaysian credit card, afraid of the high charges as happened before during my world ride. Fortunately, there were some bikers going for their weekend ride and I asked if they could help. One of them said yes, and co-incidentally when he rode in Malaysia previously, he was well welcomed by Malaysian bikers. Not only he let me refuel using his card, he refused to accept NZD12 of cash which I gave him. Biker brotherhood everywhere. Thank you bro :)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finally reached my destination and as usual, I will check the apps for a place to pitch my tent. Please bear in mind that campsites were often fully booked at popular destinations during summer or public holidays, so its wise to book ahead. As for me, now is the end of spring so I do not need to book in advance. I choose to camp at Tolaga Bay Holiday Park (NZD17) as suggested by Haakan the other day. The oldest wharf in NZ was located here. It was a very beautiful and quiet spot and I had the beach all to myself for a few hours to enjoy. I walked on the wharf till the end and just lazed around enjoying the moment.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>1<sup>st</sup> Dec 2017, TOLAGA BAY - LAKE TUTIRA</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After packing my things, I headed south bypassing Gisborne. <span style="background: white;">I really love riding in NZ. Its super easy to navigate and the signs were very clear everywhere. I didnt need my GPS at all. Most of the time, I only memorized the town names and the route number and I was never lost. However, internet was another story. Only at towns u can get connection, not at remote areas. My SPARK simcard didnt work at Tolaga Bay which I camped yesterday and campgrounds normally have additional charges if you want to use their wifi. So whenever I passed towns, I will stop for a while to check or send messages from my phone. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The view to Lake Tutira was very beautiful. Winding road all the way along the coast and I passed some scenic reserved on route 2. There’re lots of scenic reserves in NZ and it was awesome to see the different type of trees. I was blessed to have a good weather and a very enjoyable ride today.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">However, it was not the case at Lake Tutira campground. The lake itself was so blue and beautiful, but the campground was not managed and there were lots of animal poops everywhere. I had to settle with it and closed one eye. I told myself that I will be here only for one night, so just ignore it. After all, its organic and its FOC. HAHAHA... <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>2<sup>nd</sup> Dec 2017, LAKE TUTIRA - WELLINGTON</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Its been a while that I didnt scream inside my helmet due to the wind. If memory served me well, the last time the wind scared the hell out of me was in Iran, approximately 17 months back. However, here in the north island of NZ today, the northern wind decided to say "hello" to me.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the beginning, the ride was calm. I bypassed Napier and Hastings and had my lunch of fish n chips at Palmerston North (the cheapest I found, only NZD4.80). After lunch, out of nowhere, I started to feel the presence of wind. I knew that Wellington is a very windy city and I had been warned about how harsh wind in NZ can be. However, I am still far, about 150kms from the city. Since I started riding 8 days ago, there were some winds, but none was disturbing. <span class="textexposedshow">It got harder and harder when I was ascending Rimutaka Hills. Gosh...I cant move forward even when using 2nd gear. It was a tough climb on the narrow, winding and steep road, and when I finally reached the peak and started to descend, the wind got worst that I was shoved to the opposite lane for 3 times. God knows how scary that was and how I struggled to get back to my lane. Unlike Ruta 40 in Argentina which was deserted, this road was quite busy and there was one time that there was a vehicle coming from the opposite direction while I’m still unable to bring my bike back into my lane. Phewww, that was really close.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thank god Kiwi drivers were very patient. They trailed behind me until I reached a bay to pull over and let them passed. Not once was I honked by those drivers. After pulling over, I was surprised to see very long lines of traffic behind me. When the road was deserted again, I continued riding. I was sooo relieved when I finally reached the foothill. The wind was still strong but not as bad as when I’m on top of the hill. I was exhausted by the time I reached my host’s house at Upper Hutt.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="textexposedshow"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Andy and Edith Rackstraw welcomed me to their beautiful and cozy home. The owner of the bike and also the couple’s friend, Bill Irwin was also there. Bill had just returned from his Taiwan ride and now riding back to his home in Nelson. I am going to follow him back tomorrow, and the couple was so kind to let me overnight at their house. We had a nice conversation over dinner. Edith made a delicious vegetable kurma, to be eaten with rice. I told them about my scary wind experience, only to be told that Rimutaka Hill was famed for its crazy strong wind. No wonder I did see a warning sign for motorcycles before I ascend the hill. I thought the warning was meant for motorcycles racing on the winding road. Little that I knew the sign was meant that the wind can endanger motorcyclists.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-81334381409674403782018-04-06T04:06:00.003-07:002018-08-01T22:51:31.617-07:00BREAKING THE SILENCE<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Its been a looong looong time that I had not updated my blog. Its more than a year and my blog had gone rusty. I'm truly sorry. I had been extremely busy from the day I’m back to Malaysia after I’m done with my world ride, and believe it or not, I am still busy to this day!!! Life has changed a lot since then, but no worries, I am still the same Anita :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">So what had I been doing after I’m back? Well, lets do a little throwback. I had attended lots n lots of media interviews (I lost count the number already); giving motivational talks at schools, colleges, universities and events; and I also made several appearances at bike events either organized by local organizers or the brand I’m representing, Givi. I was also invited to be a personality for quite a number of TV programs such as Jurnal Bes, Santai Rider, Positif, Kalori and Yang Pertama, to name a few. To watch them, you can type my name on youtube and the list will be displayed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">As I had mentioned before, Givi had always supported my ride since my very first overland journey in 2012. Givi was also the title sponsor for Global Dream Ride. Hence, with my success in completing the ride, Givi offered me to be their world brand ambassador, which I gladly accepted. The contract was signed on 29<sup>th</sup> Oct 2016 at MotoGP event, witnessed by Givi Vice President, Miss Hendrika Visenzi, Givi Overseas Operational Manager, Mr Joseph Perucca, Givi Msia Manager, Mr On Hai Swee, and LCR Honda team manager, Mr Lucio Cecchinello. It was a very memorable event for me. It never crossed my mind that I am going to represent an international brand. It felt like I'm in a dream, but its not. By now, I had been Givi ambassador for nearly two years. Thank you Givi. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From left: Givi girl, Mr On, Miss Hendrika, myself, Mr Joseph, Mr Lucio, Givi girl</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I would like to share some beautiful moments and recognitions which I got from organizations and important ppl in and outside Msia after I’m back from GDR. Among them were the invitation by the King and Queen of Johor, DYMM Sultan Ibrahim and DYMM Raja Zarith Sofiah. The meet up was held at the royalties official residence, Bukit Serene Palace. I was not aware that the very friendly Queen followed my GDR journey, until she posted on her FB congratulating me for my feat. During the meet up, I managed to have a private chat with the queen for more than an hour, before Prince Tunku Idris joined us, and later, the king himself. I was truly blessed and honoured to get this opportunity which I reckoned as a once in a lifetime chance. Thank you Your Majesty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2-zDIyIHb4KIQtjFn6rnw5Npht0wONoEAPAVdtIvsJf6ucXoIJ2SFtpS3KSwIlZN0pLExP3rBVZeLY9je7aCT8TpI4vklc2AO_tf2e3UleWu1EQtKrxvgvNlxEIiCckWbOYmsrxZ3bbQ/s1600/MRR_3554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2-zDIyIHb4KIQtjFn6rnw5Npht0wONoEAPAVdtIvsJf6ucXoIJ2SFtpS3KSwIlZN0pLExP3rBVZeLY9je7aCT8TpI4vklc2AO_tf2e3UleWu1EQtKrxvgvNlxEIiCckWbOYmsrxZ3bbQ/s640/MRR_3554.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the King and Queen of Johor Darul Takzim</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">My GDR was also recognized by the Malaysia Book of Records. The title was ‘First Solo Motorbike Ride Around The World’. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">This is my 2nd record with MBOR after the first one is 2013. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The event which was sponsored by generous Dato Seri Raja Firdaus, and wife Datin Seri Lisa, was held at the elegant </span><span style="font-size: large;">dine</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> house, Flora Terrace. VIP for the day was Dato Seri Mirza Tayyab, the DG of Tourism Msia. Lots of media people, reps from Givi and Hong Leong Yamaha Motor, close friends such as Zana, Sue, Yongsuzi, Lee Panjang, rep fr Lanun Bikerz & LBM and my loyal supporters attended the event. Not forgetting my mom, sister and HE Dato Anne, the ambassadress at Msian Embassy in Tashkent, who hosted me when I reached her town during my GDR. Thank you very much to all.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cert was presented by Miss Shikin, MBOR rep </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE7wH_YC-CSRAhyphenhyphenXixYXZnHgogwaY-ZsKV4IhXRdPgtyIGsjUDuTX1op5N0AIstouP0IH51sGH7EpNiNyTrB17MrOBs3G_0NDcmVfPU6UDLlaVoaWLD3OcEbT1iTLH_LbC-d6X0ZCClg/s1600/IMG-20161003-WA0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="1040" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE7wH_YC-CSRAhyphenhyphenXixYXZnHgogwaY-ZsKV4IhXRdPgtyIGsjUDuTX1op5N0AIstouP0IH51sGH7EpNiNyTrB17MrOBs3G_0NDcmVfPU6UDLlaVoaWLD3OcEbT1iTLH_LbC-d6X0ZCClg/s640/IMG-20161003-WA0007.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From left: Datin Seri Lisa, Dato Seri Raja Firdaus, Dato Seri Mirza, myself, my mom, HE Dato Anne and my sister</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Besides MBOR, my ride was also recognized by Asia Book of Records. The title given was ‘Longest Bike Solo Ride Across The World (Female)’. I was the very first Malaysian who get a title in ABR :) Givi HQ at Bukit Beruntung organized the certificate presentation and a PC with the media.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbmJvhc-AXR44l47jTrYOxjTU_hHpt3nL6WZ6JCPwwDf6hicNuH_UzL0X9kXNs6ZjXxEYIo_wy6mEHGMwQC8au1lvmotwtEm94KXGMj8FtLibWkvDHYzwFk4ZdT5bbZwkpBp72gxwqQ8/s1600/IMG_20170224_185748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="1187" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbmJvhc-AXR44l47jTrYOxjTU_hHpt3nL6WZ6JCPwwDf6hicNuH_UzL0X9kXNs6ZjXxEYIo_wy6mEHGMwQC8au1lvmotwtEm94KXGMj8FtLibWkvDHYzwFk4ZdT5bbZwkpBp72gxwqQ8/s640/IMG_20170224_185748.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Other recognitions were given by Red Garage, ‘Ridiculous Mileage 65369km’ during KL Bike Fest 2016; and NVOG, ‘Tokoh Biker Madani’ during Islamic Bike Fest 2017. Thank you :)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In April 2017, I was invited to join 'Ride For Jalil' convoy, a ride to raise fund for Tunku Laksamana Johor Cancer Foundation. The organizer managed to collect more than 300 superbikes from all over the country to join this ride. Whats so memorable about this ride was I'm being selected to be one of the 30 riders in the royal entourage, riding together with Tunku Abdul Rahman and Tunku Abu Bakar :)</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With Tunku Abdul Rahman. He;s riding the late Tunku Jalil's bike</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQCA45x46fN_h_UaqVv-qv9Hn_-xzV1VXiDxC7r0IlbgwQl58b_gu7lnL47qO0vnksP9lmdylGv8JPXZIm_IZ-jJQc9KdQIhZ7-9nWcYo6vivQyi8rvzJe2TDI_nuloZ4Ix6q0M-CXCA/s1600/IMG_20170429_205828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="871" data-original-width="810" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQCA45x46fN_h_UaqVv-qv9Hn_-xzV1VXiDxC7r0IlbgwQl58b_gu7lnL47qO0vnksP9lmdylGv8JPXZIm_IZ-jJQc9KdQIhZ7-9nWcYo6vivQyi8rvzJe2TDI_nuloZ4Ix6q0M-CXCA/s640/IMG_20170429_205828.jpg" width="594" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In May 2017, I was invited to give a talk at Horizons Unlimited Annual Meeting which was held at Sumbawa Island, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. The event was organized by Indonesian top adventure rider, Jeffrey Polnaja who rode solo around the world for 9 years, collecting 400k + </span><span class="" style="font-size: large;">kms</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> on his belt. Horizons Unlimited was one of my main platforms to ask for information during my ride. The VIP for the event was Ted Simons (Jupiters Travel), </span><span style="font-size: large;">legend</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> of the legends, the father of adventure riders. Again, I felt honoured to be at this international event as a speaker, together with other big names such as Mike & Shannon Mills, Norman & Maggie Magowan, Nicole Espinosa and others. I was honoured (and nervous) too bcos my Givi boss, Mr Joseph Perucca flew all the way to watch my presentation despite his busy schedule. Thank you boss & HUI2017.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With my boss, Mr Joseph Perucca</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Me and the legendary Ted Simon</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From left, 'the man', Jeffrey Polnaja, Maggie, myself & Norman Magowan</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Two very big surprises followed suit. I was chosen as one of the Negaraku icons by the Prime Minister Dept and Tokoh Alumni UPSI by the university itself. I was almost into tears, especially for the latter. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Its</span><span style="font-size: large;"> not that easy for a university to give a recognition to someone, especially when the achievement was not academic related. The certificate was given by the minister of higher education, YB Dato's Seri Idris Jusoh. Thank you very much.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Negaraku icons, Dato Soh Chin Aun, myself, Dr Arshil (scientist), Dato Ziana Zain & Dato Rosyam Noor</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">In Oct 2017, I successfully published my long-awaited </span><span style="font-size: large;">book, Global Dream Ride – Andai Ini Takdir Yang Kupilih (If This Is My Chosen Destiny) (Series 1). I put my heart n soul in the writing of this book. Hence many admitted that they cried reading it and they felt as if I'm sitting next to them telling them the story and challenges that I faced before and during the journey. This malay-written book was sold at RM29.90 (Peninsular Msia) and RM35 (Sabah & Srwk). Send me a message at my FB Messenger </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/anita.yusof.5" style="font-size: x-large;">https://www.facebook.com/anita.yusof.5</a><span style="font-size: large;"> if you are interested to purchase one. While stock lasts :)</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I closed the year 2017 with an amazing ride to 2<sup>nd</sup> most beautiful country on earth, New Zealand. The story? I am still struggling to find the time to write. Same goes for the sequel of my book.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In March 2018, I went for a short ride to Kashmir Valley. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In May 2018, again I was invited to give a talk at an international event, Overland Expo West, which was held at Flagstaff, Arizona, USA. I was involved in 3 sessions, my very own GDR talk, and as panellists for two forums, sharing the stage with the legendary Elspeth Beard (first British woman who rode solo around the world), Tiffany Coates who was also my idol (the most travelled woman in motorcycling) and Caroline Stevenson (certified BMW Motorrad & ADVWomen Rally offroad instructor). It was a very proud moment for me, especially that I am the one and only presenter representing Asia continent in this expo.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In June, while everyone else was celebrating Raya, I went for a short ride to North Vietnam up to the China border. Three days of Raya were more than enough for me...HAHAHA</span></span><br />
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-91293689827026012102017-03-10T01:42:00.000-08:002017-03-10T06:53:11.878-08:00PART 19: BACK TO HOME LAND, MALAYSIA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">My flight from UB transit in Hong Kong for few hours before the connecting flight with Cathay Pacific Airlines, and I finally arrived Bangkok at 8pm. I took a taxi to a hostel nearby the airport. After all the challenges in GDR, reaching here felt sooo blissful. Everything was easy when almost everyone spoke at least a lil English. Its easy to find my way around, easy to find a suitable place to eat, and easy to find a place to stay. Thailand‘s like my second home and its sooo good to be ‘home’.</span></div>
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I had few days to chillax in Thailand before my bike arrived, so I decided to go to Pattaya for 2 nights. There’re lots of things and sights to see here, but this is not my first time in this sex city so I only enjoyed the halal food (at last) and walked to the walking street at night which was filled with bars, sex businesses and sexy girls dancing at the poles. Well, not my kind of thing actually, so most of the time I prefer to just laze on the beach and watched people. </div>
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I returned to Bangkok by public bus and took the metro to Malaysian Embassy. One of the staff, Miss Aishah, who was linked to me by Madam Nurliza's friend, was kind enough to let me stay at her house even though she was away for vacation. It was the eve of Eid Qurban when I arrived, and I was lucky again that the person who gave me her house key also gave me some Eid delicacies to eat. Mmmmm…..soooo yummy…</div>
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Meanwhile, I had been in contact with Thai Yamaha Motor in Bangkok who was linked to me by Mr Lee CW from Hong Leong Yamaha Malaysia. They were very thrilled to know that I had arrived and they offered to help. I was informed that the bosses also want to meet me. Since my bike had arrived, the offer to help was like winning a lottery which I couldn’t resist but accept happily. The next morning, Mr Nikhom and Miss Yi came to pick me up. They drove me to the airport to do the bike clearance. </div>
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It wasn’t easy to unite with my baby. Even with Mr Nikhom and Miss Yi to assist me and to be my interpreter, its still not easy, as both of them had zero experience on doing bike clearance. The clearance procedure was disrupted by the greedy staff's attitude at the entrance to the cargo complex which pissed me off. The staff insisted that I take the agent’s service which I declined. He (and the agent) said that its going to take a long time to do the clearance and the process is VERY difficult. I politely rejected the offer especially when the agent asked for THB3000 for his service (excluding the compulsory fees). They kinda forcing me by saying repeatedly its very difficult and refused to give me the FZ pass to enter the cargo complex. I’m beginning to lose my patience. They have no right to force me. I knew the staff will get some kind of commission from the agent if I fall for his 'threats'. Luckily I saw an officer and seek for help. Reluctantly the staff gave me the pass, but 1 hour already wasted for that.</div>
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The clearance procedure might not be very straight forward but its not so dead difficult either, only lots of to and fros from one building to another. As usual, the first place to go is the cargo office (Thai Cargo), to get the AWB copy and locate the respective warehouse where GD was kept. Then I had to go to the customs for declaration. Then back to Thai Cargo for documents signing and fees (THB1330 only), then go downstairs at the warehouse for more signatures, locate the crate, inspection, signatures again and walla...I finally got my baby back. </div>
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Since its already late by the time we’re done clearing GD, and its going to take quite some time to assemble the parts which were dismantled from the bike (to make the crate smaller in size), Mr Nikhom suggested that GD being brought back to the HQ on the company’s pickup truck. We were all very tired by then so I agreed to the suggestion. Mr Nikhom then sent me back to Msian Embassy. The next morning, both of them came again to pick me up and brought me to their HQ. Upon arrival, I was surprised to see that GD was done assembled and even the oil had been changed. Woww, that was so nice of them. Remember what I wrote in my previous post? There will surely be someone who will help, so do not worry too much that you're lack of the technical knowledge. All you need to do is to pray that everything will be smooth, and help will find its way to reach you :)</div>
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Then it was time for me to meet the bosses. I was given a warm welcome by the management, including Mr Atsumi who recently transferred here from Japan. Mr Atsumi was one of the important YMC Japan person whom Mr Lee CW from Yamaha Malaysia will contact to handle the support that I need during my GDR.</div>
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After that Mr Nikhom brought me for a sumptuous Thai cuisine lunch. The tomyam was to die for.</div>
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I left early the next day to escape the morning traffic. While riding my bike, I cant help smiling when recalling my first time riding in and out of Bangkok in 2012. The road was sooo heavy with traffic and being a newbie at that time, it was sooo stressful for me. Ever since then, I never want to enter Bangkok anymore. I rather make a big loop every time I want to ride to the east part of Thailand. Now, after all the challenges in GDR, after all the difficulties reading signboards which only have Cyrillic alphabets in Russia, after having to use my own survival skill to navigate my way when my GPS is of no help due to the frozen screen, after riding on scary big highways to enter or exit huge cities such as Seattle, Vegas, San Diego, Lima, BsAs, Ldn, Madrid, Rome, Tehran etc, Bangkok didnt seem so hard or scary anymore. Same goes to their long lorries which scared me most last time. Now, I'm not scared anymore. Its because I had experienced riding (and overtook) by much bigger trucks on I-5 (N & S) in California, which ran at 130kmh the least. Thats to tell how much I had gone through during this one year...</div>
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I exited Bangkok without difficulty and head south. It was a breeze when riding on the familiar Highway 4. I experienced baby wind along Prap Khiri Khan to Chumphon and theres lots of road works along this stretch, so one side of the road had to be shared with both. I checked in at a guest house in Chumphon just before a very heavy rain hit the area. </div>
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I didn’t sleep well last night. Perhaps I only managed sleep for one hour. Again, the reason was hate comments thrown to me by readers in the latest article about the success of GDR. It was very sickening to read what they wrote. Even though sleepy, I had 500kms to Dannok to do today. Dannok is a small town at the Thailand – Malaysian border. I cant wait to meet my friends who came all the way from KL to welcome me here, especially my best friend, Zana. I found Paramount Hotel, the hotel where we had agreed that all will stay here for the night. I met some bikers from Lanun Bikerz club, and the President, Jai (who is also Zana’s husband) at the lobby. It was a very hot day today and I felt like fainting, so Jai helped with my checking in and asked me to take a rest in my room. As I made my way to my room, I bumped into my close friends, Sue Rahman, Rosmawati and my bff Zana. It was a teary moment as we all hugged and kissed each other. It was like a dream to meet all my dearies again. I hugged Zana for a very long time. For a minute or so, nothing came from my lips except sobs and cries. We were hugging like a couple deeply in love, but please do not get us wrong. We were the bestest of friends. How I had missed her so much. </div>
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When I finally gained control of my tears and emotion, then only I noticed a figure in the background holding a video cam, capturing every moment of the scene. I heard her calling my name. Her voice sounded very familiar. Who was that? It looks and sounds like Deborah, my host when I was in Temecula. Is that really her? OMG, it was indeed her!!! I could see her hb, Mark standing by the door. OMG, OMG, OMG!!! I was screaming and crying and being emotional again, all at once as I hugged Deb tightly, while Deb just laughed and patted my back and said, “See, you made it. I know you can do it.” All these emotions drained me out very quickly. I just couldn’t believe it was really her. She and Mark flew all the way from USA to Malaysia just to welcome me home. It was unbelievable. I had to pinch myself few times to be sure that all this were real thing and I’m not dreaming. I can never imagine someone would do such thing for me. </div>
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After we’re done with crying, hugging and kissing, it was teasing and laughing again while sitting on the floor of the alley. Ohhh I loved my friends sooo much. </div>
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I met more friends after that, Yongsuzi and her hb, Lee Panjang (who helped to change my expired spark plug...HAHAHA), sis Mira Yaacob, and friends from Lanun Bikerz convoy. It was so nice of them to come more than 500kms from KL to meet me here. We had a nice chat over dinner and I was also interviewed by Thai TV.</div>
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<b>FINALLY....MALAYSIA (16 SEPT 2016)</b></div>
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Again as the previous day, I only managed 1 hour sleep last night. No matter how tired I was, I just couldn’t put my eyes to sleep. Too many things distracted my mind. I woke up feeling dizzy, but its my big day today so I forced myself to stay focus. At 9.30am, all of us gathered outside the hotel with our machines and we make a move to the border. I stamped my passport at the Thailand’s immigration new building and surrendered the customs form. Then it was the Malaysian side and I was grinning from ear to ear to see the familiar Bukit Kayu Hitam border post. The customs officers had the privilege to interview me first as I need to get my carnet stamped at their office (as a proof that I had taken my bike back into Malaysia). The custom officers, including the immigrations congratulated me and took pics with me. </div>
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It was still early before call time, so all of us stopped for a while next to the immigration building. More bikers from Lanun and northern Yamaha FZ joined us. Jai gave instructions that 20 bikes will escort me while the rest will enter the venue first and wait for our arrival. Some of my fans and followers had been waiting for me since morning so they took the opportunity to take pics with me too. I felt like a superstar. HAHAHA sesekali, jangan marah yaa :)</div>
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At 11am, those who escorted me marched into the police station with our bikes (the place where Givi put up tents for my home coming event), with me taking the lead. While riding GD, my heart throbbed so fast and my eyes watered to see how grand was the welcome given by Givi Malaysia and my supporters who lined alongside of the road. Camera flashes blinded my eyes as the reporters (lots of them) tried to get the best shots. I was greeted by the State Assemblyman and Givi Malaysia Managing Director, Mr On Hai Swee. Too bad that Mr Joseph Perucca, Givi Overseas Operational Director, the one among very few who believed in me since the very beginning and never had any doubt of my ability, and also Edwin, Givi staff who put lots of effort for the home coming preparation, couldn’t be here during this special moment. Friends and biker friends from Lady Bikers Malaysia came to hug me, including my dear friend Mastura who came with her hb Ajax and their kids. I noticed not less than 60 big bikes parked at the venue and approximately 100 people gathered in and outside the tent. It all happened too fast and again I felt as if I’m in a dream.</div>
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After a series of speeches (which was interrupted by the arrival of my kids and the emotional hugging and tears scene again), media interviews, live TV phone call, and photo session with fans, friends and Givi team who worked very hard to organize the event, I made a move to my home town Ipoh, which was 300kms away.<br />
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Again, I was taking the lead with 10 bikers from Lanun trailing behind. They accompanied me to my mom’s house. My mom was not feeling well, so she couldn’t be at the border for the home coming event. Surprisingly, there were also reporters waiting at my mom’s house. It seemed that my GDR has sparked a phenomenon in the country.</div>
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I remembered the day when I left my country one year back. Not a single media write about me. What more to have any journalist send me off at KLIA. It was a very quiet and simple send off among friends. Sadly one year later, there were even some of them who sent me off last time didnt seem keen to be my friend any longer for only they-know-what reason. And not just that, there were also lady biker friends whom I used to be so close with them before the ride, now they are drifting apart. I wonder why? I wonder why? What had I done wrong?</div>
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Tiredness, the lack of sleep and repeatedly emotional moments are taking its toll on me. By the time I hugged my mom and my sister, I can only shed tears of happiness. I thanked God for keeping me safe during my journey and allowed me to come home safely. After all the challenges in GDR when there were countless of times that I thought I am not going to meet my family again, its hard to believe that today, I am back into the arms of my loved ones. </div>
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With that, my GDR has now come to an end. Million thanks to Givi Malaysia for organizing a wonderful home coming event for me. A very memorable event for me to cherish forever in my life. Thanks to all individuals who has given a hand and came to celebrate my victory day, especially Deb and Mark who came all the way from USA. My special thanks also go to my sponsors, Givi Msia, Givi SRL Italy, Hevik, and Hong Leong Yamaha Motor. Also many thanks to my family, Lanun Bikerz, LBM, Dato Raja and Datin Yan, all my hosts, donors, friends, fans and followers for the support and prayers throughout my ride. May Allah pays all of you for your help and kindness. </div>
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All memories of blood, sweat, pain and tears in GDR is now a history not only to me, but to my country as well, for me being the first Muslim woman who rode solo around the world. GDR is not just a ride to enjoy seeing the world, but it’s a spiritual journey to correct negative perspective about Islam. And the road is my best teacher from where I learned a lot about life and people. I came back now a different person. Again, a much better person….for my people, my beloved country and my religion…..</div>
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A journey of 1001 stories…..</div>
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THE END OF RIDE</div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-69197215983862226172017-03-08T08:14:00.003-08:002017-03-08T08:14:49.641-08:00PART 18: MONGOLIA, THE LAND OF BLUE SKIES<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I woke up feeling dizzy as I only managed two hours sleep last night due to lots of things playing in my mind. After checking out of the guesthouse, I exited Ulan Ude. I need to cover 600kms to reach Ulan Bataar. I was feeling so down this morning so I’m not focusing on the road, thus I made lots of navigating mistakes. Besides, for god-knows-what reason, my GPS was directing me to go north instead of south. It was a waste of time having to turn back. After going in circles for approx 30mins, I managed to get back on track. The road heading to the border was quiet and this let my disturbed mind to wander. Too many thoughts, sadness and frustrations. What had I done to deserve all this from my own people, especially from my own race and same religion? I don’t have the answer. Thank god that fifty kms after Ulan Ude, the view started to get better, a lil bit like Kyrgyzstan. This shifted my troubled mind and I stopped for pics at Lake Gusinoye.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I continued via A340 to the border town, Khyagt - Altanbulag. It was a very small border but the procedure took so long time. I spent almost 3 hours for both border crossings. At both borders, I need to show my passport and GD’s registration papers for 4 times. I was a bit worried as I only registered myself (as a foreigner in Russia) twice, within my almost 1 month stay in Russia. Luckily the officer didn’t say anything. At the Mongolian side, getting insurance is mandatory. I purchased one for MNT18, 250. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was already 4pm by the time I leave the border and head south to Ulan Bataar. The road was so-so and some were quite bad, narrow and single lane only. I must hurry or else I wont be able to reach UB before it gets dark. However, there were lots of vehicles at certain stretches, and I must also be careful due to the livestock eating grasses very close to the road. It was quite a stressful ride for me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I arrived UB when the sun already set. Fortunately, I didn’t face any difficulty to find Kelvin’s house. Kelvin is my host in UB and he’s a successful Malaysian living in UB for already 20 years. He had a very nice beautiful house and both he and his Mongolian wife, Ochgi welcomed me with a nice smell of nasi lemak coming from the kitchen. What a relief after a looonggg 13 hours otr without any rest nor food. We chatted over dinner and the nasi lemak tasted soooo good. Thanks to both of you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next morning I followed the couple to their office. Kelvin is the sole distributor for Gano Coffee. Besides that, this couple also ran few other businesses including doing customized tour and two wheels tour around Mongolia. Kelvin also owned a ger stay at Golkhi Terej National Park which I’m going to visit later. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I told Kelvin that I want to pose in front of Ulan Bataar sign and he brought me to the sign. While posing with a Malaysian flag at the sign, I heard someone greeted me. Guess who is it? Auwww, she was Siti Noridah Et, a Malaysian famous solo backpacker who just started her silk road trip. We had been FB friends for couple years but never met before. It was a nice surprise to meet her here in UB. (Psssttt Et & Kelvin, shhhhhh :D )</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">It was Merdeka Day when we pose with Msian flag at this sign</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I asked Et about her plans in Mongolia and co-incidentally, both of us wanted to visit Khovsgol Lake. A fast plan was made and I decided to be a backpacker this time. Kelvin sent us to the bus terminal and we purchased our bus ticket for tomorrow’s journey. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next morning, Mr Tserendug, my air freight agent came to meet me at Kelvin’s house. He measured GD and gave me a quotation. It was very expensive, more than USD2000. Mongolian air freight system obliged all cargos to be crated, hence the high price. Unlike my previous experience where my bike was fixed to a wood pallet only, this time, GD has to be put in a crate. In order to reduce the price, Mr Tserendug suggested that I dismantle both tires and the top box bracket or be prepared to pay the high price. I had to agree to his suggestion, but in my mind, I was worried about fixing it back later. Ahhh, worry about that later, I told myself. Lack of knowledge in the technical aspect is not a big issue. There will definitely someone who could help. So for the time being, lets enjoy Mongolia and what it has to offer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Before departing to the bus terminal, I busied myself finding cheap </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">flight to fly to Bangkok (after I’m done with my Mongolian sightseeing). I found some cheap flights but I need to transit and change terminal in China airports. This worried me as I didn’t have a Chinese visa. I didn’t want to face problems so I had to buy a more expensive ticket and flying via Hong Kong instead. After making the online purchase, Kelvin sent Et and me to the bus terminal. It was quite a search to find the bus as the terminal was very unorganized. There was no platform and there were lots of buses which destination was written solely in Cyrillic alphabet. After asking around, we managed to find the bus. It didn’t depart on time, not a surprise for me. The driver played very loud music inside the bus. We took the same route from the way I rode from the other day before reaching UB. The bus made a left turning at Baruunkharaa. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Mongolia is sooo beautiful. It has similar weave rolling hills like in Kyrgyzstan but its more yellow here. Perhaps due to the upcoming autumn. I could see more animals here too and they are not afraid of humans and vehicles at all. Some horses even feast themselves with grasses just next to a busy road, something which is difficult to see in other nomadic countries. Yaks too, and they are in large numbers here. The sky is sooo blue and people are friendly and always smiling. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, we arrived Murun after a not so comfortable longgg 15 hours drive. It was 6am and very cold. A local girl approached us and offered transportation to Khovsgol Lake, but we need to rest at her guest house first while she searched for two more people to fill up the car. We agreed and was taken to the guest house to rest while waiting. We were served hot tea which was very nice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Around 9am, the girl knocked on our door. She managed to find two more people to share the car. We drove via A1101 road to Khovsgol Lake which was very scenic. The road was long, winding and very deserted. We stopped few times for pics and to enjoy beautiful Egiin River flowing peacefully down the valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The other two passengers get down at Mankhan while Et and I continued to the lake. The paved road disappeared and was replaced by offroad for about 30kms. There were some inclines and declines and I kinda regretting not taking GD with me. After about 1 hour of slow drive, the blue Khosgol Lake emerged from the horizon. It was very beautiful. The driver drove us around to find accommodation but since it was off season, very few options were left for us. After bargaining, we settled down at one which offered MNT35000 per cabin with breakfast. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was a good choice and we stayed here for 3 nights, just chillaxing and enjoying the blue serene lake. Indeed a very good place to find inspiration to write :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">However, the weather was not very good on the 3rd day. It was very cold and raining at times. Thus we couldn’t laze by the lake and boredom started to take over as theres no entertainment here at all. Theres no TV and wifi signal from the simcard which Kelvin lent to me was very slow. Electricity for lights came from the solar panel and we had to burn woods traditionally in the oven to heat up our cabin. Against all odds, both of us still managed to go for a walk in the woods after the rain stopped, but not for long as its freezing cold.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I said goodbye to Et as I’m going back to UB and she will stay for a while in Murun to find transportation to venture deeper into Mongolia and later to Kazakhstan. It was a very boring 15 hours journey on the bus as the person who sat next to me (and same to everyone else in the bus) couldn’t speak a word of English. Kelvin fetched me at the bus terminal and we returned to his home. The next day, I send my bike to Mr Tserendug’s garage near the airport. Kelvin lead the way so I had no difficulty to find the place. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">My actual plan is to fly GD from Vladivostok, but through my research, I found out that its not possible because Vladivostok's airport is small. So GD has to be flown out from UB instead. Since theres no cargo flights from UB, GD will be flying with a commercial flight, which means that the cost will be higher. In order to reduce the air freight fees, I had to dismantle almost everything so that the package size is smaller and wont cost me a bomb. During my previous freighting experience, GD had only very minor dismantling. However this time, I watched Kelvin and Mr Tserendug worked on the bike, and get involved until everything was done, including drying the fuel tank. I learned a lot in the process. The final costing for air freighting GD (in a crate) from UB to Bkk is USD1700. Imagine how high is the price if I didnt make the package smaller. GD will fly on the 9th and myself on the 8th of Sept. See u in approx a week time, baby. I’m going to miss you :’(</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I spent my last days in Mongolia visiting Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, which is a must visit place in Mongolia. It is not very far from Ulan Bataar, only about 70kms. This place is famed for its beautiful and unique rock formations, amazing views and definitely its spectacular milky way up in the heavenly sky. Since I no longer have GD with me (already left it under Mr Tserendug’s care), Kelvin was kind enough to drive me to the place. We stopped for pics at Genghis Khan Statue Complex (Tsonjin Boldog) and by the roadside to admire the pride of Mongolia, the eagles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then we continued to the National Park. I stayed two nights at Magic Rock Camp inside the park, which was owned by Kelvin. I really loved this place as it was very quiet. It was located at the end of the road, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">so one can enjoy the serenity without any disturbance. During my stay here, I could also see wild squirrels and marmots. The ger (Mongolian tent) here was very comfy and the toilet (they have western type toilets) were the cleanest in the whole of Mongolia. Seriously spotless, something which was difficult to find in this country. The concept at this camp was traditional but with high western standards. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The small hill near Magic Camp which you can climb </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The food served here was very delicious. Since Kelvin is a Malaysian, he understood the need for halal food for Muslims and he could arrange that too. I feasted myself with delicious BBQ lamb which he made himself. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">At night, the spectacular milky way will definitely blow your mind away. This place was indeed a million stars heaven and strongly recommended.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Kelvin also took me for sightseeing around the park. I saw lots of beautiful rock formations around the area. The yellow grassland, the blue skies and the animals scattered around made this place seemed like heaven to me. Soooo beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">To those who want to experience staying at Magic Camp, you can contact Kelvin at his Facebook, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">On my last day in UB, I visited the famous square, Genghis Khan Square. Since it was a beautiful day, there were lots of people around. I took some time to just laze here and tried to imagine Genghis Khan and his troops during the former golden days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, it was time for me to say goodbye to my wonderful hosts, Kelvin and Ochgi.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> I hugged Ochgi</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> in the wee hour of the morning before Kelvin send me to the airport and we parted goodbye. I have had a very memorable stay in Mongolia and GD’s air freight task had been done smoothly and successfully – all with their kind help. Thank you both of you</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> for the hospitality which I will remember forever.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">As the Mongolian Airlines aircraft took off from the runaway, I whisper silently in my heart. Bye2 Mongolia. Bye2 Uncle Genghis. I'm going to miss you. I know that you are going to haunt my dreams after I'm back home. And the more frightening to me is to realize that GDR is going to end very soon. Yes, very soon. Can I cope? Can I adapt to being back to normal routine after been living a life on the road for a year? I’m afraid to even to think of it…..</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-3825609508330696942017-03-05T20:58:00.002-08:002017-03-06T08:11:03.889-08:00PART 17: RUSSIA<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I checked out in the morning and made my way to the Russian border via A322. As soon as I exited Semey, the road passed through pine forest reserve area. The road was so-so, bumpy at times but with very few traffic. The quietness around me made my mind wandered as I rode. I have heard quite a number of not so nice stories about Russia. It was seen as a difficult country, corrupt police, cold people, and no English was spoken. Honestly I do feel worried, but I want to see and experience this country for real. How would my experience be? I have no idea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I reached the border after riding for 130kms. First, I stopped at a military checkpoint. The officer gave me a slip. Then I rode to the customs building for the customs to check my bike. The officer was very friendly, perhaps he felt funny to hear me speaking Russian. He only took 5 seconds look in my top box. Then I went to the immigration to stamp my passport. The immigration officer spoke good English.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then I continued few hundred meters on no-mans-land to the Russian side. I was nervous yet excited. Finally, I saw the sign post. Yuuuhuuu…I’m about to enter the world’s biggest country on day 324 of my GDR. Welcome to Russia.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">At the Russian side, everything was being done at the same counter (for passport and bike registration). The lady officer couldnt speak English. I cant help laughing as she took 15 minutes to check my passport very thoroughly. Not that she's amazed by all the stampings and visa stickers in my passport, but she's checking for any hidden objects in the passport pages, and in the middle part of the passport. She used a magnifying glass with lights to check every single page. Thank god she's not the one inspecting GD, or else she's going to take forever to finish checking everything. Luckily for me, the customs checking was fast and simple. Before leaving the border, I purchased Russian insurance at a small shop for RUB751 (for one month). I also met a trio who rode all the way from UK, heading to Ulan Batar, Mongolia. They amazed me with their old classic rusty bikes. Who said that only BMWs and KTMs can do long rides? Its not the bike, brother…it’s the rider :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Surprisingly, the main road in Russia was good. A lot better than in Kazakhstan. However, theres no more roman alphabet signboards to be seen. All the signboards were in Cyrillic alphabet. I had prepared myself for this situation, so I faced no problem to navigate my way even though for the umpteenth time, my GPS didn’t give me proper driving instructions. Unfortunately, I took a wrong turn somewhere in Rubtsovsk town and ended up riding about 10kms on a secondary road which was pretty bad. I managed to get back to A322. As for the view, I had to agree with former travellers who had passed this road. It was sooooo boring. Only some sunflower, wheat and white wildflower fields cheered me a bit. I reached Barnaul after riding 460kms in 10 hours. I was pretty tired.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The M52 road to Novosibirsk, my next destination, was not as good as yesterdays. There were lots of road works and the wind was quite strong even though I could see the presence of Taiga forest by the roadside. The view on the long straight road was boring as yesterday, except for some lakes and locals selling mushrooms and potatoes by the roadside. I reached Novosibirsk after riding 260kms. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Novosibirsk is the third largest city in Russia. I spent 30 minutes to enter the city as traffic were pretty bad and went straight to Panavto, a Yamaha dealer here. It was already 6000+kms </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">after the last thorough checking on GD at Tehran and the last oil change in Osh, Kyrgyzstan. I met Mr </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Kiriu who spoke reasonable English. I was linked to him via </span>Mr<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Lee from Hong Leong Yamaha Motor who monitored my ride. GD was serviced (the odometer read 57k km), new battery replaced, new air filter installed and all the checking done to make sure that this final part of GDR will be smooth. I wished to thank Hong Leong Yamaha Motor (especially Mr </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Lee CW for taking all the troubles to courier everything that I need), YMC Japan, Yamaha Russia and Panavto manager (Mr K</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">iriu) for all the help and support. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I would like to suggest to other advriders to try to get support from your motorbike brand’s company during your ride, especially when the bike you are using for the ride is not commonly used for long rides such as RTW. Not only this will help you to save some money, but also a win-win situation for yourself and the bike's brand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">My next destination is Kemerovo which was 280kms from Novosibirsk. It got cooler as I rode further north on M53 in the Siberia region. Sometimes I shivered when the wind was strong. All along my way, Taiga forest dominated the view. I used to teach Geography in school and natural plants of the world were among the topics that I taught. Now I'm seeing this Siberian natural trees for real. The trees were not as tall as Malaysian Tropical Rain Forest but it was so compact and dark inside it. Euwww...I wonder whats inside it?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Its interesting to recall soo many things which I used to teach my students, now I'm seeing them during my GDR. Steppes, savannah, pampas...not to mention the natural rock face caused by water, salt, heat or wind erosion. I saw lots n lots of them, especially in the South America.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, I rode to Krasnoyarsk via M53. The distance was 576kms and I met some bikers along the way. They were heading to Baikal Lake Bike Festival. We managed some conversation and they asked me to go to the festival which I’m not so keen on going. There were lots of road works going on so only one lane was opened for vehicles. There were lots of lorries plying this route too. There were some beautiful golden wheat field views which saved my boredom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It took me eight hours to reach Krasnoyarsk which was quite a big city with more than 1 million population. I rode on the Kommunalnyi Bridge over Yenisey River to enter the city and went straight to my AirBnB host’s apartment. Unfortunately, she was not at home and I had no idea when she will be back. I was lucky to meet Vladimir, a nice guy who helped me even though he didn’t speak a word of English. With my limited Russian, and later another girl, Paulina who could speak little English, we managed to call my host. Yuria, my host, arrived 45 minutes later.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Coincidently, Yuria’s husband was a biker and he was excited to meet me. Unfortunately, he didn’t speak English at all. He posted in his FB bike group about me and asked if theres any biker who could speak English. A lady biker responded and she came to the apartment to meet us. Her name is Darya and she just picked up riding this year. She rode a BMW CS650. Darya told me to park my bike at a paid parking nearby as the apartment area was unsafe. The next morning, Darya came again with Misha, who rode ZZR1000, and they took me to a Givi dealer in Krasnoyarsk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Since my top box rack was bent due to the bad road in Turkmenistan, I couldnt ride fast on the uneven road anymore. I always had to go slow because I'm worried about the rack. I only had a temporary solution with help from Swiss advriders Michael and Sarah whom I met in Bukhara. Theres no Givi branch or dealer at all in the Central Asia countries. Finally here in Krasnoyarsk, I managed to get help from a Givi dealer, Konstantin, to solve the problem. Konstantin was linked to me by Givi’s overseas operational director, Mr Joseph Perucca. He repaired the rack and customized two metal pieces on both sides of the rack to raise the base plate. Now my top box was back to the actual level. Konstantin assured me that even if I fly with my bike and land roughly on the ground, the rack wont bend again. HAHAHA…..</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Many thanks to Konstantin for the help, Givi Italy and Givi Asia for the awesome network and support.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">While waiting for my top box rack to be repaired, Darya and Misha brought me for a little sightseeing. We went for a ride for about 30kms outside Krasnoyarsk to a view point over Yenisey River. This viewpoint is very famous with picnickers and weddings and the river is the natural habitat for sturgeon fish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">After that, I was taken to Karaulnaya Gora (the watch hill) which is famous with Paraskeva Pyatnitsa Chapel which lies on top of the hill. The picture of this chapel is a symbol of the city depicted on the RUB10 bank note.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I rode approx 1200kms in two days to reach Irkutsk. I was quite tired as its a loonggg ride. There were lots of road works which delayed me as only one lane opened for vehicles. There were quite some stretches of off road too. Ever since I entered Russia a week ago, the view along Moskovskyy Traktt (Moscow Way) had been the same. Taiga forests, golden wheat fields, long straight or slightly winding road and some rolling hills. Only today I saw beautiful pink wildflowers. But all in all, everything is okey. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Irkutsk is the 6th largest city in Siberia, due to its proximity to Lake Baikal. Angara River flows into the city and towards the famous lake. Irkutsk was founded in 1661 as a settlement for trading gold and furs. It was nicknamed the "Paris of Siberia" due to its wide streets and ornate, and continental architecture, but travellers today will find a little resemblance with Paris. I spend two nights here and managed to do a little city tour. I liked to see the architecture of the cathedrals and churches, but the one that I loved most was the fountain and gardens at Kirov Square. It was so beautiful. I also had a nice stroll by the river and enjoyed a beautiful sunset.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I continued my journey east towards Ulan Ude via M53 and M55. The road was 90% good. I rode 500kms on nice twisties and soon the view of Lake Baikal emerged into view. Taiga forests soon disappeared and were </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">replaced by steppes view again. I saw people selling blueberries </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">in pails and I also saw smoked omlu</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> fish by the roadside</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">. I was told to try this fish as you can only find it in Lake Baikal. However the price was expensive for my wallet, so I had to miss it. I noticed that the further east I go, the pricier the fuel get, but the performance of the fuel dropped and full</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> tank of GD could take me 350kms only. I reached Ulan Ude and didn’t face any difficulty to find the guest house which I had booked earlier. I normally booked my accommodation in Russia via Booking.com. I'm now only about 300kms from Russian - Mongolian border.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">After resting 2 days in Ulan Ude, I continued my journey. However, I must say that today is another most challenging day for me in GDR. It had been raining continously since yesterday and also today. So when I exited Ulan Ude in the morning, it was flooding everywhere. The temp was 10'C. My destination was Chita, 700kms away. Theres no town in between these two towns, only a few small villages, thats why I had to ride the huge distance. By right, the road was not so bad (I had seen worse), with certain parts similar to Kazakhstan, but the continous rain (since yesterday) really made the difference. There were lots of road works on and off for the first 500kms and I had to play with mud (due to the rain). The first 150kms took me 4.5hrs!! It was very hard and stressful. I only stopped for 20 minutes rest once because GD needed gas, and that was after riding 7.5 hours straight. Then only I realized how tired, thirsty and hungry I was. My bad habit, whenever the ride became stressful, I didnt wanna stop. I'll keep on pushing myself to the max, as my mind always said, "God knows whats awaiting in front."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Hour by hour passed, I get more and more exhausted. I motivated myself by saying, “Hey, cmon, you can do this. You had experienced far worse than this. This is peanut only.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">But I cant lie to my mind. My mind knew this is not peanut.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The pics below (the only pics I took for today) were taken in the beginning of my ride when exiting Ulan Ude. The worst condition, sorry, no pic. The mud was thick and I was freezing colddd</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">. How my teeth rattled!! Thank god I didnt</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> drop the bike even though many times it was out of control already, and many times too I almost fell when I couldnt escape</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> the pot holes</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> which were filled with rain water and I had no idea that the holes were deep. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, I reached Chita after almost 13 hours on the road riding 700kms. Fortunately, after all the challenges, I checked in to a nice hostel and Dima, the receptionist happened to be a biker, so he put me in an unoccupied room so that I could rest without disturbance. How kind of him. We chatted over dinner and Dima linked me with another biker in Mogocha, my destination for tomorrow. I felt a bit relief as accommodation for my onwards journey is tough.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was raining again when I checked out the next day. As early as in the morning, my patience was tested when my GPS directed me to a secondary road which was not only muddy but steep incline. I know that I will surely drop my bike if I were to take that road so I turned and tried to find the primary way. I asked locals but communication breakdown found me going in circles for 1 hour and 30kms wasted until I finally managed to exit the town. The rain poured for 2.5 hours but this time I was prepared with my Givi rain coat so I stayed dry. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The road from Chita to Khabarovsk (Amur Oblast Federal Road), is known for its remoteness. This stretch of 2100kms is tough for me. Why? Because the distance between small towns which provides accommodation are huge. You need to ride approx 800kms per day if you want to stay in motels. With my small bike, this is not possible. Wild camping is not recommended as this stretch is famed for its tigers and bears. Amur (in Russian) means tiger. Theres no accommodation which you can pre-book in the internet except for Khabarovsk. So, where am I supposed to stay when riding along this stretch? This somehow worries me, but for today I already have a place in Mogocha. Many thanks to Dima. As for tomorrow’s and day after’s accommodation, worry about it later. Today’s ride is not as stressful as the previous day and I enjoyed the rolling hills, green mountain view, steppes and pink flowers. There were some green and yellowish taigas which looked familiar like the trees I saw in Tierra Del Fuego. It was a very scenic ride.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Unlike yesterday, the road for today is in a much better shape. There are three construction sites that I need to ride on but it was not muddy, only gravels. After riding for 660kms on P297, I arrived Mogocha and took the left turning to the village. Then I texted Alexei who owned a bike post here. Alexei is the founder of Iron Angels Motorcycle Club. He couldn’t speak English at all so we had to communicate using hand signals and a lil Russian that I knew. Alexei brought me to the bike post. It is actually a double storey house made of wood. The ground floor is a workshop to work on your bike and the upper floor is the living room @ sleeping place. Theres no indoor toilet so you need to walk about 50 meters to use the public toilet outside. So, this is the place I’m going to sleep for tonight, which is way better than having to camp in the cold and the fear of tiger or bear threats.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">My journey for the next four days was tensed. It rained every single day. All my things were wet. I didn’t have any more dry socks to wear. Imagine having to start the chilly morning with wet socks, wet boots, wet gloves, wet, wet, all wet. It really turned one’s mood down. Not only everything was wet, I had to brave the cold, strong wind and some road works which delayed me. Some parts of the road were ok and some with lots of pot holes. To find a decent place to put the night was tough too. I had to stay at a workers hostel for one night where I am the only female in a crowd of males who eyed me as if they wanna eat me alive. I was so scared. Another night I had to wild camp as theres no place to stay. Only for one night, I was ‘lucky’ to sleep at a highway motel but the cheapest room meant a very tiny room with barely enough space to move and theres no door latch from inside. Twice, drunken men opened my door in the middle of the night and I had to shout to prevent them from entering my room. I had a very poor sleep due to this. Sigh…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fuel was scarce and pricier as well. There were few times that GD almost ran out of fuel and I had to go really slow. The view was nothing special, perhaps some autumn colours here and there. However, the thing which really depressed me was the lack of internet connection. It had been days since I’m last connected to the outside world. My family and close friends must be as worried as hell because they didn’t hear from me for days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">To be honest, I don’t have the heart to do this last part to Vladivostok because I knew that its going to be tough and I already knew that I couldn’t fly my bike to Bangkok as Vladivostok airport is small and only small air crafts fly in and out from here. When I was in Ulan Ude, I was doubting whether or not I should ride all the way for 3500kms to Vladivostok, and later turned back another 3500kms the same way back to Ulan Ude before going to Ulan Bataar, the place where I will finally fly GD to Bangkok. Ulan Ude to Ulan Bataar is only 600kms. But if I don’t touch Vladivostok, my RTW ride will be questioned and argued. So I had to force myself to just finish what I had plan from the beginning. However, by doing that, I had to face all these challenges w</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">hen by right, I can choose to ride straight to Ulan Bataar (from Ulan Ude) and save myself from all this unpleasantness, time and money wasted. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">There were times when riding along this road that I felt so scared as it was toooo quiet. I hardly met anyone for hours. The trees and tall bushes by the road side made the ride even more tensed as my mind tried to imagine whats going to happen if all of a sudden, a tiger or bear jump out in front of me. What am I going to do then? Theres no house or village in sight at all. I cant even see the locals selling their agricultural products anymore. This is to show how dangerous this stretch of road that even the locals are scared to hang around here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally I arrived Khabarovsk, feeling so exhausted after the long continuous ride without a break. The first thing I did after checking in at the hostel was to contact Alexander, a biker from Iron Tiger Motorcycle Club to help me with GD’s loosening chain. Alexander sent Vladimir who was a member of the same club (Khabarovsk chapter) to help me. While waiting for Vlad to arrive, I read messages from concern family and friends who had been worried for my days of silence. Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to reply to their messages, nor to update my FB status when the electricity suddenly went out. I thought it will recover after a while, but it didn’t for the whole of my two days stay in this city. Can you imagine my frustration?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The following day, I rode 375kms via M60 to Dalnerechensk and camped at a village. Actually theres a hotel here but its too pricey for me. I camped near a stream and accidentally dropped my phone in the water. The phone died instantly. Damn!!! How I curse myself for my carelessness. The phone can be switched on but I couldnt see anything on the screen. I tried to dry it but the lack of sunshine didnt help much. I am now even more tensed and all I want is to reach Vladivostok ASAP. Oh my godddd, this ride is surely driving me CRAZYYYY!!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">As I exited Dalnerechensk the next morning, I met a local biker. His name is Gosha and he could speak English. He’s a very nice guy and happened to be a member of Iron Tiger Motorcycle Club too. This club is the most famous motorcycle club in Russia. Gosha wanted to talk to me and offered to buy me breakfast. I told him about my phone problem and how I had not updated my whereabouts for already 7 days. Gosha let me use his phone to get connected. I was so thrilled to read concern messages from my family, close friends and my silent reader followers...but the most touching was from Wissam Al-Jayoussi, an advrider from Dubai whom I had met only twice when he reached Malaysia during his RTW ride. To read his concern about getting a wide search done for me put me into tears.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I spend about 1.5 hours with Gosha and later moved on to Vladivostok via M60. The road was so-so and it rained a bit, so I cant g</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">o fast. After riding for 400kms, I reached the bridge across Amur Bay which is also the gateway to Vladivostok. How I screamed with joy upon seeing this bridge as in a short while, I am going to reach the eastern most point of my GDR. I just cant </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">believe myself. I cried my heart out and screamed my loudest voice while riding on the 4kms long bridge until I reached the signpost which read VLADIVOSTOK. Only tears of joy can justify.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, on day #342 of GDR, Friday 19th August 2016, 4.32pm local time, I created HISTORY. From Seattle (USA) to Alaska to Ushuaia to BsAs to London to Lisbon to Italy to Balkans to Central Asia to Russia... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">After 60000kms, I now reached the easternmost point for GDR, Vladivostok. Meaning to say that I had successfully circumnavigated the globe from west to east. It had been a looonggg ride. A looonggg, looonggg ride. What had I been through? Only me and Allah knew. The pain, the struggle, the fight, the survival...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I'm not an olympian. I didnt win any olympic medal. I didnt win any race. I didnt win any game...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">But I won a BATTLE which only few men in this world dare to fight...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Let alone women...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">"FIRST MUSLIM WOMAN TO RIDE SOLO AROUND THE WORLD ON A MOTORBIKE"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I still had so much of adrenaline when I left the sign post and continued riding to the city center to my host’s house. To my horror, Vladivostok is just like Ankara, very hilly with narrow road and sharp inclines. I had to ride very carefully. Once in a while, I took a quick glance at the sea down below while riding along Golden Horn Bay. It was beautiful. To find my host’s house was quite a challenge. I had to go in circles few times before I managed to find the apartment building, but I was very lucky that Milana my host, was already waiting for me downstairs. Milana couldn’t speak English at all but this petite beautiful lady is so friendly. It was funny how she tried to explain to me that I couldn’t park GD at the apartment as its unsafe, but I must park the bike at a paid parking nearby. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Milana and her husband, Sergei were both bikers and they were also from Iron Tiger Motorcycle Club. They were linked to me by Darya, the lady biker whom I met in Krasnoyarsk. I stayed 4 days at their house to rest and recharge before returning via the same road back to Ulan Ude. This couple not only hosted me but a few more people as they had spare rooms at their house. I also managed to meet Svetlana, a very tall Russian girl (1.98m) at the house. Svetlana spoke good English and we talked about Islam. She had lots of curiosity and I tried my very best to explain to her and to correct her wrong perspective. I was glad that at the end of the day, she now had a better understanding of my religion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">While in Vladivostok, Milana and Sergei brought me and Svetlana for sightseeing at the attractions. We went to the view point to view Golden Horn Bridge which is the famous landmark of Vladivostok.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then we took a funicular down and went for a stroll at the waterfront while watching people passing by.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">We also went to Spotivnaya Harbour to view the ships from all over the world which docked here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">And a visit to Vladivostok is not complete without visiting the Central Square. This is a good place to relax and watch the locals at leisure. A pair of massive statues served as the Memorial to the Fighters for the Soviet Power in the Far East, in honour of those who brought this remote corner of Russia under Bolshevik control.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">On the way to the bus stop to take a bus back home, we stopped by at Vladivostok Train Station which was old but beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I said goodbye to my wonderful friends, and took the same way back to Ulan Ude. For 5 days and 3500kms and without an internet connection, it was as boring as hell. Fortunately the weather improved by lots and theres no rain at all. I arrived Ulan Ude without any issue. I checked in at the same guest house in Ulan Ude. I was shocked to find out that my FB post of reaching Vladivostok few days ago had gone viral. Some congratulated me but some don’t. In fact, ugly words were thrown at me by keyboard warriors. To be honest, even though sad, I pity them actually. I understand that they were bored because they lead a very dull and boring life, hence they couldn’t hide their jealousy when seeing people who dared to step out of the comfort zone and live life to the fullest. Well, as the saying goes, “what didn’t kill you makes you stronger”, which is very true in my case.....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I took some time to see Ulan Ude city which was quite nice also. The biggest Lenin’s head statue can be found here.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-7183751955281341862017-03-03T07:52:00.002-08:002017-03-03T07:52:35.665-08:00PART 16: KYRGYZSTAN - TAJIKISTAN - KAZAKHSTAN<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>KYRGYZSTAN (11th – 28th JULY 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was already tired by the time I’m done with the border crossing. The sun was setting and I need to reach my host’s house ASAP. However, my GPS decided to play games with me and took me for a ride inside Osh Bazaar!!! I was </span>sooo<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> angry with my GPS. Imagine I had to ride inside the narrow alleys with people walking in and out. I was stopped by 2 policemen. Well, not surprising to me since its forbidden for motorbikes to enter the bazaar. As usual, the police asked for my documents and tried to find my fault. I was getting tired and restless and the sun was getting down, but I had to keep my charm and smile and asked them to let me go. I only managed to reach my host’s house at 9.00pm after riding 455kms. I was </span>sooo<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> exhausted. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My host, Firuza couldn’t speak English. She was linked to me by her daughter, Nura, who was linked to me by Madam Nurliza who hosted me in Almaty. Nura’s son, Iskander stayed with her grandmother and he could speak reasonable English. I was served plenty of food for dinner which consisted of fruits, </span>variety<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> of nuts, dates, soup and plov (traditional rice). The plov was very tasty. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day was quite taxing for me too. I intend to ride into Tajikistan, but I didn’t have a Tajik visa. In my mind, I will just try my luck. I had rode in Tajikistan before, all along the Pamir Highway of M41 until Dushanbe. This time, with the lack of visa, if I manage to repeat the road and ride until Ak Baital Pass, that’s very good for me already. I started early and rode on M41 Pamir Highway via Gulcha. The road was 70% okey and 30% so-so. Despite that, the view was sooooo beautiful and took my breath away. Ohhh….I am sooo loving Kyrgyzstan. I had been to more than 80 countries, had seen the beauty of Patagonia, Argentina, had breathed in the spectacular New Zealand scenery, had viewed Turkish landscape, but I still say that Kyrgyzstan is the most beautiful country in the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It got cloudy as I climbed up two mountain passes, Cigircik Pass (2389m) and Taldyk Pass (3615m). The road climbing up the passes which was built in 2013 had started to deteriorate and was broken </span>at<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> many parts due to landslides. I had to ride with extra care until I reached the small town of Sary Tash.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To reach the border, I need to ride on badly broken asphalt + some off road for approx 23kms. The view of the green grassland, snow cap Pamir mountain, horses, goats and yurts gave me joy even though its getting colder.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the border, I had to wait for approximately an hour before I managed to exit Kyrgyz. This would be the second time for me to ride on the road heading to Tajikistan. Not many people get the chance to ride on this road, whats more to ride twice on it. I was veryyyyy excited. However, the 20kms crazy road via Kyzyl Art Pass (4280m) to Tajikistan was more difficult now compared to 2013. There were three water crossings and the wind was super strong. The ride was tough as I didn’t have off road tires on my GD. I nearly dropped my bike few times, but thank God I didn’t fall. Too bad I couldnt have any pics of mine on the bike as I didnt hv a riding buddy to capture my act. The view of the mountains changed to orangish brown, which meant that I am nearing the border. It was sooo beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I couldn’t hide my joy when I saw the Marco Polo sheep structure which marked the Kyrgyz-Tajik border. I was soooo happy. Heyyy, I had been here twice lah :) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I didn’t spend much time here as the clouds didn’t look promising. After few pics, I hurriedly rode another 5kms more to the immigration and customs office. The post still looked the same as three years back. I greeted the officers and as usual, played my charm. But to my frustration, this time I failed due to the lack of visa and permit. I begged, I pleaded, I did everything I could to charm them. It always worked in the past, but it didn’t this time. I was denied entry by the guards even though I had sweet talked them and even tried to give some bribes. It felt weird why they didn’t want to take my money when money is king at this part of the world. I suspect something might had happened recently thus security seemed to be very tight. After wasting my time for half an hour without any luck, I had to turn back. I only managed to ride 10kms (return) on Tajik’s land this time. My target to repeat Ak Baital Pass failed. I was a bit sad, but its ok. I had already prepared my mind mentally and psychologically for the consequences and denial. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turning back was more challenging as it started to drizzle and the dirt road turned to slight mud in a very short time. As I’m going downhill, many times GD’s tires skid and I almost fell to the ground. Fortunately I managed to get back to Bor Dobo safely. Then only the rain got really heavy and I had to take shelter at the border post for a while. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When the rain lessened, I continued riding and decided to push to Osh. I was surprised to see the paved road which I just did in the morning was broken at four parts due to overflow of the fast current Gulcha River (due to the heavy rain). It was very muddy and big gravels scattered on the road. I didn’t take any pic as I was very tired. Again, it was only at 9pm when I reached Osh feeling sooo drained out after 13 hours on the road covering almost 500kms. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before leaving Osh, my host Firuza and her friend Lilia brought me to Sulaiman-Too sacred mountain. A visit to Osh is not complete without visiting this UNESCO heritage site. I should have visited this place in 2013 but I didnt have the time then. It was quite a hike up and pretty exhausting as it was 42'C. Osh city can be viewed from up here. There were some ancient worship sites and I also visited a very interesting cave museum which displayed exhibitions about Zoroastrians which was practised here before Islam’s presence. Previously, I thought only the ancient Iranians practised Zoroastrians. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As it was getting late I hurriedly left Osh to Arslanbob which was 150kms away. Arslanbob was famed for its walnut forest nature reserve. I rode on M41 under the heat of summer and a very boring view, until I turned to an unnumbered road which was paved on and off for approx 50kms to my destination. The view was quite interesting but I had to ride on an off road at certain stretches along Karaunkur River. The last part to reach the village was a bit steep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning, I hiked few kilometres to see the walnut forest. It was interesting in the beginning but boring after a while, so I turned back.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I make a move to Karakol via M41. It was 275kms ride on a bumpy road but the view was sooo awesome. It was very green and there were lots of gorges and grey coloured mountains. The fast current Naryn River flowed alongside the road. I also saw countless waterfalls along the way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the beginning I planned to wild camp near Toktogul Lake @ Reservoir. However, most of the time, the road was higher above the lake. I found an off road trek leading to the shore but the trek got more and more challenging for my off road skills and GD's non off road tires. Besides, the lake might seem near from the road, but it wasnt so. Theres also another off road trek which I found, but it went straight to the local's front gate, so I had to turn back and forgo the camping idea. I found a cheap motel facing the lake and opted to stay here. How lucky I was as 1 hour after settling down, heavy rain and storm hit the area, and the rain continued through out the night. I cant imagine how stressful it would be if I choose to camp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On my way to Bishkek the next day, I rode on two mountain passes, Ala Bell (3184m) and Too Ashu Pass (3180m). The view along the way was soooo beautiful. I stopped too many time for pics. The climb on Ala Bell Pass was easy as the road was good and the incline was gradual. However, it rained when I climbed up this pass and it was soooo cold. The temp was -5'C. I stopped the bike to capture some pics and took video of the beautiful surroundings. Suddenly, I felt droplets of 'sands' fallen from above. Goshh, it was iced rain!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The moment I finished doing my stuff, cold burn already burnt my fingers and I couldnt even curl them anymore. My fingers were frozen. It was sooo painful when I had to force them on the throttle. I hurriedly descend the pass to beautiful Suusamyr Valley which was a bit warmer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the other hand, the climb on Too Ashu Pass, literally a "camel pass" was more challenging. This pass was a part of the Kyrgyz Alatau range of the Tien Shan mountains. It was about to rain when I was riding on this pass. There were many broken parts and pot holes. The worst was at the hairpin bends where there were lots of dried mud, rocks and debris which were carried away by the running water as a result from yesterdays continous rain. Here in Kyrgyzstan, heavy rain would cause landslides and overflow of rivers and closing of road were not uncommon. I was lucky that it didnt rain when I did this pass as there were times that the lorries stopped completely at the bends when only one lane was decent enough to drive on. I had to ride very carefully. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Bishkek, I was hosted by Nura. She's the daughter to Firuza, my host in Osh. Nura asked me about my plan in Kyrgyzstan, and surprisingly she offered herself to come along as she had not seen some of the places I intend to see @ trek @ climb. The first place we went to was Ala Archa National Park which was about 30kms to the south of Bishkek. This park was popular with locals and the view of wild flowers and the pine trees were very pretty.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also managed to go to Karkara Valley, which I had wanted to see since 2013. At that time, the plan was to ride from Almaty and enter Kyrgyzstan via this valley. However, the border was still closed then (this border only opened few months in a year), so I had to forgo the idea. I’m glad that I managed to see it this time. Yes, its beautiful and very green. Its off road with bee houses and people selling pure honey along the way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had planned to do some trekking to see Ala-Kul, a rock-dammed lake in the Terskey Alatau mountain range. I fall in love with this lake after seeing a pic of it posted by my idol, Zahariz. This lake lies at an altitude of approximately 3560 meters. To get there, I must first get to Ak-Suu village, and after that to Altyn Arashan. The distance from Ak Suu village to Altyn Arashan is 14kms. One can take a jeep (a very rough ride) or horse or walk the whole distance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nura and me chose to walk. We passed amazingly beautiful river and some pine forest. The walk was easy in the beginning with some rolling hills, but later the dirt track changed to rocky. We did a good time of 2.5hrs covering almost 9kms. Then it started to rain heavily. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The already muddy track (due to continous rain for few days earlier) made it very difficult to walk. Our shoes were coated with mud, and its not easy to walk while carrying our backpacks in this condition. We were lucky (or may be not so for me), that a couple with horses passed by and they offered one of their horse to us for a small fee. Unfortunately, Nura and I had to share one horse and I had to ride on the back of the stallion without a saddle. It was very torturing and painful because not only I’m not used riding a horse, I had to sit right on the horse’s back bone without any padding or cushion!!! And it was a very bumpy and steep climb. I almost cried due to the pain on my thigh and butt. How I wished the ride will end soon, but we only reached Altyn Arashan 1 hour later. I fell from the horse while trying to get down as my legs were so sore and I’m unable to even stand up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was veryyyyy cold in Altyn Arashan but we had to start early as today we are going to trek to see the lake. Weather forecast said that its going to rain again in the afternoon and I had no idea if we will be able to see the lake or not. Being on the bike for too long (approx. 10 months now), I didnt do any fitness training and as a matter of fact, I didnt even jog since I started GDR. The longest walk I did was 10kms from Station Hidroelectrica to Agua Calientes (Machu Picchu town), last January. Apparently, the lack of fitness, age factor and pain which caused from previous day horse riding made the climb a very hard one for me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a beautiful day when we started walking. The track to Ala Kol Lake was not so </span>nice<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> though. It was very muddy at certain parts and steep loose gravels on the other parts. But there </span>were<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> also nice rolling hills grassland too. The view was soo beautiful with pine trees, horses, </span>sheeps<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and cows. The track here was not marked at all and many times it disappeared just like that. </span>Its<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> very easy to get lost in this area. We were lucky to meet a couple who had a guide with them so we just trailed behind. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The guide led us via a short cut which we need to cross one particular river for 3 times. Two crossings were done via a fallen tree trunk (definitely not for gephyrophobics), and one time we had to cross the freezing fast current river on foot which the water reached up to our knees. The moment I dipped my feet in the water, I felt numbness as it was very very cold. It was very challenging. Not long after the third river crossing, the fine weather turned bad. Thick clouds covered the sky and we had iced rain thru out our climb.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a very hard 6.30 hours constant climbing in iced rain, we reached the altitude of 3700m. Theres only 100m more very steep track to climb up which will take about 1 hour, and we'll reach the iced mountain pass to enable us to view the gem hidden below the mountain pass, the Ala-Kol Lake. Unfortunately the weather turned from bad to worse with not just iced rain but very thick fog and blizzard. Within few seconds, I couldnt feel my fingers anymore. It was freezing cold. Dont ask for shelter, theres nothing up there except mountains, rocks and ice. A fast decision had to be made as we were not equipped with proper gears for such harsh weather condition. We had to get back down ASAP before we get frost bite. We had come this far...but what to do...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Indeed everything happened for a reason. The couple and the guide which we had been following from the beginning were no longer in sight. Both Nura and I had to survive on our own now. We followed the same track that we had taken earlier. The moment we reached the lower level, the sun came out again. Its always like that, isn’t it? When blood started to flow back into my fingers, the tips felt so painful and ballooning as if its going to burst any moment. I was dead tired but I had no choice but walked back to Arashan. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We tried to find the short cut which the guide had led us previously but we couldnt find it. We walked and walked and walked, and the next thing we knew, we were lost!! All around us were pine forest and everything looked the same everywhere now. We knew that theres river crossings to do but where were the tree bridges? We spent too long time walking by the river bank, to find the safest way to cross. The fallen tree bridges that we found (not the same which we took earlier) were too risky and dangerous and its scary to think of whats going to happen if we fell into the river. We had walked too far and we were tired. Theres no inhabitants nearby. After following the river for quite some time, we met a boy and he showed us a 'safe' bridge to cross. I was a bit shaky when crossing it but thank god, both of us made it safely to the other side. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then it were few kms more to walk on the disgusting muddier track (due to more rain) to the yurta. God knows how I had to drag my painful legs and tired body. I had to motivate myself and said, “just walk, eventually you’ll be there.” We managed to get back to the yurta just before sundown. In total, we walked 20kms in 12hours today (and its a steep climb). In our case, the quote ‘no pain no gain’ is insignificant because it is a ‘lots of pain and no gain’ (except for the beautiful view) for us today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Below is the pic of Ala-Kul Lake that we didn’t manage to see. (Pic from Zahariz’s collection).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its frustrating for not being able to see the lake after all our efforts, but there is a blessing in disguise. Imagine if we managed to see the lake, we will spend longer time than we should, and definitely we wont be able to reach Arashan when we were lost in the forest. I'm scared to think how we're going to survive a night in the cold mountain without tent and proper clothing if we couldnt manage to reach the yurta before it get dark. We might die of hypothermia. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I woke up the next morning with lots of pain and muscle soreness. Nura and I made our way back down to Ak-Suu where her cousin, Damir picked us up with his car. We drove along the southern road of </span>Issyk Kul<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Lake and camped by the lake shore for the night. There was a storm that night and the tent was almost toppled by the strong wind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day, we continued our way to Kyzyl Oi, a remote village far in the Suusamyr-Too Range. The reason why I want to go to this remote village is because I was told that there is going to be a traditional festival here. We drove via A367, passing Kyz-Art Pass (2664m). The road was partly bad asphalt and partly off road. The view along the way was sooo breath taking. The fast current green Kyz-Art river really amazed me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kyzyl Oi village was indeed very calm and serene. It was surrounded by orangish rolling mountains and coated with green velvet like grasses. It was so peaceful to be here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The festival consists of few traditional routines and games. But the one that I really want to see is Ulak Tartysh game, a nomad goat polo game where a dead goat weighing about 25kgs were passed from one to another till it reached the opponent’s goal to score a point. It was very exciting to be able to watch this game live, right in front of my eyes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After watching the game, we made our way to Song Kul Lake, an alpine lake in northern Naryn Province which lies at an altitude of 3016m. The road to this lake is very rough but very beautiful. We arrived after sundown and put the night at a yurta. Its too cold to camp up here. The night sky was filled with millions of stars. What a sight to see.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The following day was spent at Tash Rabat, a well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai in At Bashy district. The distance was 275kms and we had to drive on Dolon Pass (3035m). In 2013, the road from Sary Bulak to Kochkor was still under construction, but now its already paved. The view was sooo beautiful. Tash Rabat had more visitors this time compared to my first time here, and the view was a bit spoilt due to the rubbish thrown by irresponsible people. We camped by the small stream and enjoyed another night of milky way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before leaving for Bishkek the next morning, I took some time to find Elizet, my yurta stay host here in 2013. She still remembers me. It was nice to meet her again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Even though this is my 2nd visit, this country still sits on the top rank as the most beautiful that I had seen. I’m glad that this time, I managed to venture more into the remote areas, explored new places and I also repeated some places which I had been before. It was nice to recall places which I had seen and I screamed with joy whenever I saw landmarks which I had posed with my DREAM in 2013. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In terms of landscape, nothing much had changed since 2013. Its still very green, pure and beautiful. In terms of road, there are lots of differences. The paved road which I rode on in 2013, now had broken. The one under constructions in 2013, now already completed, but there are some parts which are still unfinished. Some parts which were totally off road last time, are now under progress to be paved. Still there were some parts which had not changed at all, still off road. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The best time to visit this country is from end May to </span>mid Sept.<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Weather plays a big role. If you are lucky with the sunshine and </span>less<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> clouds, you'll get to see blue lakes, green rivers, and milky way (at night). If you are not so lucky, you will get torrential rain which will cause road destruction due to landslide and flood. Believe me, I had witnessed all that, how in a very short duration, heavy rain caused mountain river to flow mud and stones on to the road. Too bad the government </span>didnt<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> have enough money to build landslide barriers nor to monitor the steep slopes to prevent landslides as Kyrgyzstan is a very mountainous country.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After being back in Bishkek, I managed to meet </span>Zahariz<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, the person who was to be blamed for inspiring me to become an </span>advrider<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. Five years ago, he was the one giving me the idea to travel on a motorbike, and the rest of my life after that is history. </span>Zahariz<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> was married to </span>Merim<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a Kyrgyz woman. He managed to do some filming </span>on<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> me for a short video clip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>KAZAKHSTAN (28th JULY – 1st AUG 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the morning of 28th July, I said goodbye to Nura. Similar to my farewell bid with my previous hosts, it was hard to leave her too after spending unforgettable memories and adventure for two weeks together. Thank you Nura for the hospitality and for being my sister. I’m leaving you for now, but our family tie binds forever. I left Bishkek and crossed into Kazakhstan at Korday border via M39. Border crossing was very easy and smooth (five minutes on the Kyrgyz side and 25 minutes on Kazakh side). Theres nothing to pay on both sides. The road to Almaty was good. I was happy to see the same landmarks which I posed with DREAM in 2013.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Since now is the middle of summer season, the steppes were not as green as last time, and theres no wildflowers carpeting the grassland as I had seen before. The view was replaced with lots of locals selling apricots and strawberries by the roadside. I didn’t buy any because I had enough of fruit tasting in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. The road after Almaty was good too, but there were some constructions nearing Taldykorgan. I reached the town after riding for 532kms. I rode slowly in search for a place to stay and I bumped into a biker who coincidently just came back after a month students exchange program in Malaysia. He helped me to find a cheap apartment, but I had to park GD at a paid parking about 200m away.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day I rode to Ayagoz via A3. The distance was 552kms. It was a very bumpy ride with lots of pot holes. There were off road too and the rain worsened its condition. The road to enter Ayagoz was very muddy. This time, I wasn’t so lucky. GD kissed the muddy road, for the 8th time since GDR. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The road to Qalbatau was as bad as yesterday. However, the view improved by lots. The steppes and the wheat fields here were golden in colour. The wind was sometimes strong as I crossed the vast steppes. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I finally reached Semey after riding for 380kms the next day. It had been three days of </span>looongg<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> rides, and I am very exhausted. Semey is a city approx 100kms to the Russian border. </span>Its<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> easy to find Semey Hotel which I want to stay and I decided to stay here for two nights.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While in Semey, I managed to visit Nuclear Victims Monument which was built to commemorate victims of the nuclear tests. The tests were conducted nearby this area by the Soviet government to see the effects of it on humans. It was reported that 456 tests had been done around Semey from 1949 – 1989. Few years later, cases of leukemia, cancer, and deformed babies rocketed significantly. It was estimated that 6000 Kazakhs died because of the tests. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">War or anything related to it never do good for ordinary people. Only very few shall benefit from it. It was sad for me to think of the victims and the torture they had to live with until they let go their final breath…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We </span>cant<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> change history, but we can prevent it from happening again</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We cant change people’s attitude, but we can change our own for the better</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Every cruelty in this world started from sickness in the mind</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We can treat this sickness if we truly want to become a better person in life</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Believe me, we are able to change it if we really want to…</span>.. </div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-12047780596717470542017-02-07T08:14:00.001-08:002017-02-07T08:14:47.096-08:00PART 15: CENTRAL ASIA (again....yuuuhuuuu) TURKMENISTAN & UZBEKISTAN<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>TURKMENISTAN (24 – 26th JUNE 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Today is tough. Today is really really tough. Its one of the toughest day for me in GDR. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I started riding as early as </span>5am<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> and rode 200kms on route 22 to Sarakhs, the Iran - Turkmen border. In the beginning, it was a very fun ride as the view was amazingly incredible. I almost skid few times due to focusing more on the view, rather than the narrow, winding, and hilly road. There were lots of amazing gorges </span>up<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> the hill which formed a cliff (when looking from lower view). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">My GPS only showed me the magenta </span>colour<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> driving guidance approximately 35kms to the border, after being malfunction since Tehran. This proved my theory that the government blocked the satellite, so, </span>certain<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> type of navigator gadgets will be influenced and disturbed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Unlike when entering Iran the other day, exiting this country took a while as there are lots of checking and paperwork to be done. Two officers (one after another) asked to check all my boxes (I really dont understand why it must be two times checking instead of one. Its really a waste of time. Then I had to wait inside the building before I got my exit stamp, which was a blessing as it was a very hot day and I’m fasting. After that, one more last report at another office near the gate and I was led out. In total, I spent 1 hour to settle everything, and many thanks to a kind guy who helped me. It would be longer if he didn’t help. Khoda Hafez Iran. I have had a nice time here, and had a 'family' and good friends here. I wont hesitate one second to come and visit this country again for the 3rd time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then I rode towards Turkmenistan. A military officer checked my passport at the bridge and later pointed me the direction to the immigration. Then it was about 1km off road ride to the immigration and customs building. Unlike the negative remarks about this country which I had read and heard previously, my experience was totally different. A military staff welcomed me with a broad smile and asked me to sit down first as it was lunch time. I waited 30 minutes and after that, an officer called me for registration. Then he told me (in his language) to do some stuff which I understood only a little. With my limited Russian, I asked him to help which he agreed. I was ushered from one room to another. Lots of registration to do, but it </span>were<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> very fast and smooth as </span>theres<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> always someone (the staff) who happily assisted me. I had to pay USD14 for registration, and USD63 for insurance. Then I had to submit my declaration form to the customs officer, went to another building for another registration at another custom’s officer and finally a simple checking on my boxes which were done by a group of officers. It was laughter all the way. All the staffs and officers were very friendly, always said "welcome to Turkmenistan" and not just that, they’re very handsome too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In total, I spent 1 hour to settle everything at the Turkmen side (minus the lunch hour waiting time). I must say that this is a very fast Turkmen entry, as I always heard of delays for hours from previous overlander friends. In my opinion, besides my 'luck', I think it has got to do with how I brought up myself when dealing with the officers. My methods are very simple. Firstly, SMILE your sweetest smile when dealing with the officers. Doesnt matter how tired or how stressful you are, smile is the first attempt to melt people's heart. Second, take the initiative to learn some simple phrases. This is another way to tackle the officers. Doesnt matter if you pronounced it wrongly, it could be hilarious to them, and once you made them laugh, you already win their hearts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was all fun and smooth before I exited the gate, but very soon the 'hell ride' on AH75 begins. From my reading, I knew that this stretch of AH75 was bad, but I had </span>rode<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> on too many bad roads since GDR, so what could be worse? Well, this one was one of the worst. It started with </span>badly<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> sunken road to gravel to dirt with lots of pot holes, </span>sooo<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> big and deep, it could easily fit a family of elephants to have their morning breakfast together. There were countless of times that I </span>didnt<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> know which trail to ride on as the whole road was filled with holes, one after another. At times, I could only move at 13kmh. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After a while, I started to get very tensed with the situation. I rode faster and GD went 'flying' through the potholes many times. GD landed roughly on the ground and the landing’s hard impact caused the top box monorack to bend. Honestly, I felt like giving the handsome Mr Presidents head a hard knock for his lack of concern in giving his people a better road, when the country is so rich with oil and gas. He could build his giant statue made from pure gold in Ashgabat (the capital city), but he couldnt be bothered to give a better facility to the country!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The most tortured part for me was the soft sands which go for kms. I didn’t check how far it was as I was sooo dehydrated due to fasting. I felt like fainted anytime. Theres some wind though but it didnt give any fresh feelings as it only blew hot dusty air into my face and I felt so pain on my cracking lips. I was sooo dehydrated that I didnt have anymore saliva to recycle to at least wet my drying throat. Theres no shelter at all. It was a hell ride for me. Can u imagine what I had to go through? Riding under the blazing heat of summer, crossing the desert with temperature at 50'C? Well, this is Garagum Desert, what do you expect, Anita?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I had to stop many times to check on my top box which already hung too </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">low. Every time</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">, I will give it a push but after a while, it will bend low again. I was worried if the top box fell down so I kept on looking back </span>from<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> my shoulder while riding to make sure that the box was still there. It took me 4 hours to cover the 118km stretch before I met M37 paved road again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I managed to ride faster on M37 bypassing the beautiful city of Mary. I should stop for pics but I was very exhausted and what I had in mind at that time was to reach my host’s house as soon as I can. Finally, after riding 440kms in 13 hours, I reached my host’s place which was located in between of Bayramaly and Merv. I noticed the old city walls but was too tired for any pic. I felt like dying already. Begench, my kind host welcomed me and asked me to take a shower first to cool myself. After that, I had my iftar of Turkmen’s dishes, made by Begench’s mom after fasting for 17 hours. Phewwwww…. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Before leaving my host’s house the next day, </span>Begench<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> helped me to fix the bend </span>monorack<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> of the top box. Both of us gave the rack a hard push but the really tough Givi metal bracket didn’t move at all. This made me wonder </span>of <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">how hard was the impact during </span>yesterdays<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> landing when GD went flying, that it could bend the tough Givi bracket. We tried to lift up the top plate instead and succeeded with few </span>milimeters<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> uplift only. I had to satisfy with that and continued riding to Turkmenabat which was 260kms away. I made a mistake by not </span>refuelling<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> since I still had half tank of fuel. I didn’t know that </span>theres<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> no fuel station at all until almost Turkmenabat. It was desert all the way. I had to ride very slowly and was </span>sooo<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> relieved to be able to reach the city. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>UZBEKISTAN (26TH JUNE – 11TH JULY 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Even though I got a five days transit visa, I didn’t intend to stay long in this country as everything is very </span>pricey<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. I made my way to the border on the third day. </span>Its<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> not difficult to navigate my way except at one point where I was lost because the road closed due to construction. After going in circles and asked some locals, I managed to find the correct way. I had to cross a bridge over Amu Darya River and was charged USD18 for the bridge crossing and the highway toll (I didn’t see any highway except a so-so paved road). Exiting Turkmen was very easy and took me 30 minutes only. However, entering Uzbekistan took much longer time. The lady officer who spoke reasonable English demanded that I brought ALL my stuff into the customs building, rather than an officer made the checking on my motorbike. It was hot and I’m fasting but I had to drag all my stuff to and fro for few times for the checking and scanning. It took approximately 1.15 hours and after </span>that<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> I’m good to go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I rode on M37 to the old city of Bukhara. I was smiling from ear to ear when recalling the familiar road to reach Rustam & Zuhra Guesthouse, the same place where I stayed during my Stans ride in 2013. It was a very hot day so I didn’t go anywhere. I had seen the attractions here before so I chose to just rest until iftar time. The guesthouse owners still remember me and they asked me to join them for sahur early next morning free of charge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Before going to bed, Michael and Sarah, advriders from Switzerland whom I met at the border earlier today helped to fix my bend monorack. The bracket was wayyy too hard and strong to be pushed up using hand strength. After some discussions, we agreed to make some modifications. We replaced the screws which connected the plate to the bracket with a long type screws, and we slid in some metal pieces underneath the plate to raise the top box. It didnt reach the actual level, but at least, it worked for the time being. Thank you very much Michael and Sarah for the help. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next morning, I made my way to Samarkand. By right, I should take the shorter distance M37 all the way, but my GPS directed me to take the long way via A380 to Qarshi, and later M39 via Shahrisabz. I asked a local about the road condition and the guy said the road was good. Well, it was good only for few kms and after that it was so-so. I couldn’t speed on this road as theres lots of goats and sheeps. However, the view after Qarshi was quite interesting with some beautiful hills to enjoy. Again, it was a very hot day and I was exhausted for taking the long 430kms road. I actually planned to visit Imam Bukhari’s Mausoleum which I missed to visit in 2013, but I was too tired due to fasting. I rode straight to Bahodir Guesthouse which I stayed in 2013. The owner still remembered me and my Stans Solo Ride calendar was still hanging at the memento board. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I stopped by at the famous Registan for pics the next morning before making my way to the capital city, Tashkent. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The road via M39 was </span>okey<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> except some broken parts when I climbed up the small mountain at Jizzakh. There were some interesting views and I saw lots of people selling big watermelons and apples by the </span>road side<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. Again, my GPS lost its driving guidance 200kms before I reached Tashkent. Well, this had happened in 2013 so I’m not surprised when it happened again. There was some wind along the way but unlike my fear of the wind in 2013, this time I only smile. I had faced </span>much<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> stronger wind, </span>so t<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">his wind is nothing to me already. I arrived Tashkent by noon and tried to find my friend Dilshod’s office who owned a travel agency in Tashkent. The location he shared with me was not very accurate. I had to ask a beautiful receptionist at a hotel to phone him and he came to fetch me. Besides running Uzbek tour business, Dilshod also ran motorbike tour in Uzbek and he helped foreigners to obtain visas. He had helped me in 2013 when I faced </span>difficulty<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> to get Uzbek visa by giving me a Letter of Invitation (LOI). I didn’t get a chance to meet him then. This time he helped me again to get </span>Russian<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> visa. He readied all the needed documents such as LOI and Russian travel voucher. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Dilshod's office Asia Tours: FB - https://www.facebook.com/hdilshod?fref=ts</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Once everything </span>done<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">, I left Dilshod’s office and rode to Malaysian Embassy. They had moved to a new location. It was difficult to reach the embassy as the road leading to it was not allowed for motorcycles. I was going in circles and tried to take alternative road but all the road seemed to be forbidden for motorcycles. In the end, I just rode through and it didn’t take long for a policeman to blow his whistle loud and asked me to pull over. With my limited Russian, I explained to him that I want to go to my embassy and all the road seemed to be forbidden for motorcycles. After checking my documents, he let me go without any ticket. Pheewww. I found the embassy without any difficulties. The embassy's new building was sooo grand and beautiful. I felt like walking into JW Mariott Hotel instead of an embassy. It was </span>sooo<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> nice to see familiar faces again such as </span>Mr<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Farhod, </span>Mr<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Mahmud, Giulia, </span>Naseeba<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> and </span>Kamola<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. The ambassadress, H.E. Dato Nor'Aini Abd. Hamid was on leave so I didn’t manage to meet her. </span>Mr<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Farhod helped me to fill up Russian visa application form and promised to take me to the Russian Embassy the next day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, I reported to the ambassadress, who was also known as Dato Anne. What a sweet, caring and kind person she was. She invited me to stay at her residence while I settled my visa matters here. Dato used to be a biker too. She rode Harley Davidson Sportster 883 when she was in the States, so she was very interested and supportive </span>to<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> what I am doing now. When talking to her, I could feel that we had a lot in common, hence I felt the chemistry within a very short time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Later, the driver, Mr Mahmud, drove me and Mr Farhod to the Russian Embassy. Security checking was strict here. I kept my fingers crossed as I’m not sure if the visa can be done here in Tashkent or not. I had asked to do it in other countries previously but was told that its not possible, and I must go back to my country to get it. With Farhod to help me, and the support letter from Msian Embassy, I was soooo relieved when the lady told me that I can apply for the visa and it will be ready in two days. After that, Mr Mahmud drove me to the hostel which I stayed last night to pick up all my things and then he led me to Dato Anne’s beautiful house. I will be staying here for few days until Eid. I just cant believe my luck. Alhamdulillah.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After two days, I went to Russian Embassy to collect my visa. I was given 30 days single entry for USD100 (inclusive of LOI). I felt like a heavy stone had been lifted up from my shoulder. Thank God. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">By now, it was already the end of Ramadan, and Dato Anne insisted that I stayed on and celebrate Eid with her. Since my Uzbek visa is expiring, Dato Anne worked her way to get me an extension. However I must exit Uzbek first and get a new visa in Almaty (Kazakhstan) instead. Dato Anne made all the arrangements for my visa extension and she paid for my return flight ticket to Almaty. She also gave me some money to pay for my visa renewal. I really don’t know how to thank this very kind hearted lady. Not just that, she linked me with Madam Norliza, the director of Tourism Malaysia in Almaty. I stayed at Madam Norliza’s house for 3 nights. Madam Norliza brought me to Medeu Stadium (the place where I didn’t get the chance to visit, way back in 2013) and Arbak Street Handicraft Center. In Almaty, I get to taste Kentucky Fried Chicken for the first time in almost a year. It was so good :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Uzbek visa extension was not as easy to get as I thought, even though Dato Anne herself went to Uzbek MFA in Tashkent and talked directly to the officer in charge asking for assistance. I was told to collect the visa at Uzbek Embassy in Almaty on a specific date. I went there at 10am, and had to cue up for hours before I was let in. The consular said that my visa application was not in their system. I was asked to come again at 2pm. When I returned, the same thing happened again. After cueing up for 2 hours, I was told that my application was still not in their system. I informed Dato Anne and upon receiving my message, Dato Anne went straight away to Uzbek MFA once again. She managed to get another officer to sort out this problem (the officer whom she dealt with the other day was on leave). After receiving the officer’s call from Tashkent, the consular in Almaty asked me to go to the bank to pay for an express visa (USD75) before the bank close for the day. I returned to the embassy, but still couldnt get my visa, as its still not in their system. I was tensed. By hook or by crook, I must get the visa on that day itself because my return flight to Tashkent is scheduled tomorrow, and tomorrow is Eid Day for Kazakhstan (they celebrate Eid a day earlier than most Muslim countries). I was getting so restless and impatience. I had been waiting since 10am!!! Finally, the consular called me in, and only at 8.15pm I got my visa. I don’t know if I should cry or I should be angry. Seriously, its not easy dealing with CIS countries. Again, I owed Dato Anne, the staff of Malaysian Embassy in Tashkent, Madam Norliza, her staffs Aziza and Aibek for all the help.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After the ‘nightmare’, Madam Norliza and I did some marketing to prepare food for Eid Day. Another two Malaysians, Chef </span>Ina<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> and Chef Yat joined us. We cooked Malaysian delicacies such as beef rendang, tomato chicken, compressed rice, peanut gravy and others. We cooked until past midnight. We were all tired but happy. The Eid mood was surely in the air as Madam Norliza played Eid songs from her </span>hand phone<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. The next morning, we celebrated Eid. Even though there are only four of us, we felt like family. I had to say goodbye to them in the afternoon to take my flight back to Tashkent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Unlike Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan celebrates Eid on the same day as in Malaysia. This meant that instead of having a zero celebration (I thought I’m not going to celebrate Eid this year as I’m away from home), I was blessed to get a double celebration instead. At Dato Anne’s residence, we busied ourselves cooking lots of delicious food. It was served on the morning of Eid and I get to celebrate (again) with Dato Anne’s family and the staff of Malaysian Embassy in Tashkent. It was indeed a joyous celebration, especially for me. I remembered how I shed tears on </span>Qurban<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Day when being all alone in the cold of Alaska with so much pain due to the pinched nerve, but here, I’m surrounded </span>with<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> my own people. Of </span>course<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> I missed my kids back home but </span>in<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> the same time, I cried silently in my heart for all the kindness that I received here. I wonder how would I survive on this day if I didn’t meet Dato Anne? Can I tolerate the loneliness on this special day somewhere in the mountains, perhaps with some wild horses or goats to accompany me? I have no idea. I really have no idea…..</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I spent few more days in Tashkent and Dato Anne and her family were kind enough to take me out for sightseeing in and outside Tashkent. I was taken to the War Memorial, Earthquake Memorial, Independence Square and Monument, Amir Temur Monument, Kukeldash Medressa, Broadway and surroundings. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, Dato Anne and her busband, Mr Hasdi took me to Chirchik and Chimgan. The view along the way was very beautiful. It was a very hot day but we managed to do a short trekking, climbing, and horseback riding. Dato Anne is a very active person despite her age. After long last, I think I had found a good travel mate, but unfortunately she’s a very busy ambassadress. LOL… We also went to Beldersay and took the chairlift up to the mountain peak. The view from above was superb. I enjoyed myself very much. Thanks to both Dato Anne and Mr Hasdi for a day well spent. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, after spending 10 days (in total) at Dato Anne’s residence, its time for me to continue with my journey. Its not easy for me to leave this sweet, caring and kind soul. Dato Anne had been so nice to me. She treated me like her very own sister. She showered me with love. How I cried my heart out before the flag off at the embassy!!! However, the journey must go on. I still have 15000kms more to achieve my goal. Dato Anne’s last words to me were, “you must be strong. I know you are strong. Show to the world that you can do this. I want you to finish this ride.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Thank you Dato Anne, Mr Hasdi and all. Thanks for everything. I will never forget my beautiful days with all of you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">With a lump in my heart, I pressed GD’s throttle and moved on. I rode towards Dostyk - Osh border on route A373 bypassing Angren, </span>Fergana<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> and Andijan. The </span>view in the beginning<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> was filled with orchards. There were many people selling honey by the </span>road side<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> too. Fuel was a bit hard to get as most stations had finished their supply. GD almost ran out of fuel!! After Angren, the view gets more interesting when the road ran parallel with Akhangaran Reservoir. There were beautiful gorges as well. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">There were four times that I need to get down from my bike at the checkpoints along the way to register at the counter. Border crossing on the Uzbek side was unbelievably fast, only 20 minutes. The customs didn’t even check my bike – and that’s because I showed the officer the support letter from Malaysian Embassy. However, entering Kyrgyz took almost 1 hour (in 2013, I took less than 15 minutes to enter the country), and its no longer free as last time. I had to pay approx USD10 for eco fees.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-6277890236865754352016-12-27T10:26:00.002-08:002016-12-27T10:31:45.628-08:00PART 14: WEST ASIA - TURKEY & IRAN<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>TURKEY (21st MAY – 16th JUNE 2016)</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In the morning, I made my way to Greece - Turkish border at Kipoi. Nearing the border, I saw lots of lorries lining up by the road side and the line was like a km or so. In my mind, oh god, why is such a long line? At the car/motorbike lane, there was a long line too and it took me 30mins to get my exit stamp. Then I rode to the next counter which was the Duane (customs). But the window was closed. There were 2 cars ahead of me and they were stuck there too as the gate was closed. I saw the driver of the first car talking to an officer, (in a soft manner first, then arguing), but I didnt understand what was going on. After 15mins, the line became longer and all restless drivers started to gather. Then only I knew that the Greek customs were on strike and they didnt want to work on that day. Ouchhh!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I waited patiently. What else can I do? Fortunately the customs opened the gate after an hour but the officer didnt record my bike's exit (bcos they didnt want to work on that day!!), even after I had asked. Surely GD will be blacklist as never exit the country. I crossed the river which separated the two countries. In the Turkish side, first I need to register at a police check point. He asked for the bike docs. Then I had to ride to the immigration for an entry stamp. The third was the customs. They asked to see Turkish insurance which I didnt have. I had to go to the duty free shop nearby to purchase one, and it cost me EUR78 for a month. Thats the minimum rate. Then I made my way to the 4th counter which was a police check point again. In total, it was about 40mins at the Turkish side.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After that I rode all the way to Istanbul via E84. It was a very windy day and pretty stressful as I got side and headwind all the way and there were lots of rolling hills. My poor GD had a tough time to beat the headwind while climbing up the hills. For the first 100kms, the road was not good as there were lots of road works and many trucks plying the route. After that it was a good dual lane road but 40kms to Istanbul, I was caught in a very heavy traffic. It was a snail ride to zip in, in between of the vehicles. The drivers here didnt have any respect for motorcyclists, so they didnt give a damn to give way for me to zip in. It was very tiring. About 300m to reach my hosts house, the road was closed as there will be a United Nation meet at Grand Hyatt Hotel (which was next to my host's hse). The meeting is next Monday but they closed the road since last Thursday. I really wonder why. I had to go in circles to find another way but it all ended up closed. My last solution was to ask the police to help me and finally, I managed to reach my hosts house.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In Istanbul I was hosted by a lovely couple, Avram & Fanny. Avram was a successful Turkish businessman who lived in Singapore and Msia in the 70s. Fanny was an Indonesian/Sporean Chinese. They invited me to stay at their daughter's apartment since their daughter was away for vacation. I just couldnt believe that after a series of uncomfortable nights at dorms with mossies and raining during midnite while camping, I walked into an elegant apartment with marble floor and wall, beautiful chandelier, glittering 5 stars hotel kinda toilet and shower, a fully equipped kitchen and Fanny stocked the kitchen with food during my stay here. Not just that, she invited me for meals everyday and took me out to an expensive restaurant for lunch. I was very lucky indeed. I felt fully charged after spending 4 nights in Istanbul.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">While in Istanbul, I managed to meet another kind Malaysian souls, PK and her husband. They were friends of Avram and Fanny. They came to meet me once they found out that I had arrived Istanbul. Both of them had been residing here for more than 20 years. They were proud of what I'm doing. PK took me out for sightseeing, and even gave me souvenirs for remembrance. Since this was also my 2nd time in Istanbul, we only visited the free attractions and had a drink at a restaurant in the Graand Bazaar. Thank you to all of you for the nice hospitality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Words about me and my solo ride spread fast. I was contacted by TRT World TV saying that they were interested to interview me for a slot in the national news. I agreed and we spent about 3 hours for the shooting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">While in Turkey, I managed to do some touristy things such as visiting the travertine of Pamukkale. Its been quite some time I wanna see this place. Unfortunately, at the time of my visit, some of the basins already dried up. Only a little bit were left to feast my eyes. However, its still a remarkable view. The whitish things of the travertine were hardened calcium carbonate. You need to walk bare footed on the travertine in order to conserve it. Entry fee to visit this place was YTL35. There were also some ruins nearby to explore.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">My next destination in Turkey is Ankara. Its Friday and Fanny had warned me that the weather gonna be shitty and she advised me to stay few more days but unfortunately I had a schedule to follow. Fanny was right. It rained continously for 4 hours and I was soaked bcos I didnt put on my Givi rain coat. Hahh, served me well!! However, the view along the way was very beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I reached Ankara after riding 500kms in 8 hours. The good thing was theres no traffic jam when I entered the capital city of Turkey, unlike when entering Istanbul the other day. But the not so good thing was before reaching my hosts house, I had to ride on very very very steep and narrow switchbacks. Not one or two, but lots of switchbacks along the 4kms to reach her apartment. Few times when taking the crazy sharp inclines, I almost dropped GD bcos the corners were too tight and the road was too narrow. GD couldnt afford to climb up even with first gear. The impatience Turkish drivers didnt help at all. They were angry at me. Luckily I found my hosts house but I was so exhausted by then. Fortunately I am going to stay here for quite a while bcos I need to sort out Turkmen and Uzbek visas here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">During my GDR, I was very blessed to have very kind hosts during my journey. In Ankara, I was hosted by Colonel Zakaria (Msian Defense Attaché in Turkey) and her wife, Fida. They were truly kind to me. They took me everywhere they go, including to the agro market in Ulus doing their weekly marketing. What caught my eyes at the market were sheeps feet which sold here. I asked Fida if it taste good, but she hadnt try as yet. Mushrooms were cheap too, only TL5 per kg. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After that, we wanted to visit Ankara Castle, a medieval citadel up the hill which was built more than a millennium ago. Unfortunately the road to the castle was closed. Then we visited Haci Bayram open mosque. Haci Bayram was a pious man who lived in the 14th century and his tomb was located nearby the mosque.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">There were many visitors at this place and I took the opportunity to talk to some of them. It was a nice experience. In my opinion, Turks were friendly people and they didnt mind to be photographed (unlike the people in some countries), but some requested me not to put their pics on FB, which I fully respected. After Ulus, I was taken to a shopping mall to enjoy the weekend. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I loved Ankara. Despite being very hilly, its a very clean and organized city with not so bad traffic, and never looked congested, unlike other world’s capital cities. Before we went home, we stopped at a place where Col Zakaria feed some stray cats everyday. It was fascinating to see how the cats came running upon seeing Col's car as if they knew that its eating time. The strays here were beautiful and I wished I could take one with me for GDR, but of course I couldnt do that.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">On Monday, my hosts took me to report to the Ambassador at Msian Embassy in Ankara. I chatted with the Ambassador for a while and had to excuse myself bcos I need to sort out my visas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Getting visa is one of the trickiest part in any travel. Different country has different procedures and sometimes the procedures can change overnight. For my GDR, I need visas for US, Canada, Bolivia, Iran (VOA), Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Russia. I have had difficulties when applying the first 3 visas, and I had set my mind that it will be tough for the remaining.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fida and I went to Turkmen Embassy to apply for the visa. Knowing that its always difficult to deal with the Turkmens, I brought along a support letter from Msian Embassy in Ankara. To my surprise, the handsome young officer told me that processing will take 5 working days (instead of 2 weeks when asked by phone). I'm applying for a transit visa and the rule is you must already had both country visas in your passport (before and after Turkmen), then only you can apply for Turkmen transit visa. May be its bcos of the officers confusion to see sooo many stamps and previous visas in my passport, and bcos of the support letter that I brought along, he didnt demand to see Iran and Uzbek visas (before and after Turkmen, which I had not get as yet). He didnt even want to take the USD10 visa processing fee (visa fee was USD35). He didnt asked for hotel booking whatsoever, and the application form is a very simple one. As for Uzbek visa, the embassy only entertain visa application on Wednesday, so I had to wait two more days before applying for it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">While waiting for my visa to be processed, Fida took me to her many events. Being a wife to a Defense Attaché, Fida's schedule is always packed with her formal and informal activities with AMAC Ladies (an organization for the wives of foreign Defense Attaché based in Ankara). I was brought to a Ramadan Coffee Morning event, hosted by Mrs Mayada, spouse of Egypt Defence Attaché. This event gave me the opportunity to join and mixed with classy ladies from all over the world. The wife of Sudanese Ambassador was there too. Some of the guests were very beautiful. I also get to taste Egyptian and Turkish delicacies served during the event. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It impressed me to see how well Fida brought herself and its even more amazing to see how highly she was respected by the AMAC ladies. She was the source of advises and approval whenever they discussed about their programs. She represented herself (and Malaysia) very well and I am so proud of her.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Everyday in Ankara was busy days for Fida, and me too, LOL. In a way, it made the waiting for the visa less stressful. Fida brought me to a potluck picnic party at Lozan Park organized by herself. Some of her AMAC Ladies friends were there. We had a really great time. Eating, playing games, chatting and laughing. Besides us, there were many other locals having their picnic here too. The park was very lively. Each of us brought food from own countries. I get to taste variety of food and they were all delicious.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fida also took me for a vist to Anitkabir, a must visit grand museum dedicated to Mustafa Kamal Ataturk in Ankara. The museum not only housed the Turkish first President's belongings, but his tomb was here too. There were lots of exhibitions about his life history including his involvement in military and his contributions to the country. It was very obvious how Turkish people loved him. Here, his body was preserved and kept in a coffin. The coffin was not buried but was placed in an underground chamber in the museum.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">On the last day before Ramadan, my hosts took me to AMAC picnic party which was held at a military recreation centre. It was a nice event, meeting lots of people from all around the globe. Some of them were bikers too and we had a very interesting conversation. The food was really good and I really had a feast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">One the first day of Ramadan, my hosts took me to an Iftar event, hosted by the Mayor. It was a Turkish style iftar. The starter were bread with lentil soup. The second course were rice and meat. The best was the dissert, which were baklava with goat milk ice cream. It was very delicious and indeed to die for.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">On the 3rd day of Ramadan, my hosts organized iftar for Msian students who studied in Ankara. About 20 students turned up and lots of menus were served. Fida was a great cook. Whatever she cook surely tasted good. I had been putting on weight since I stayed here and I knew that I am going to miss her cooking very much.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It had been 15 days that I'm in Ankara. I already got my Uzbek visa, but Turkmens one seemed to be taking a while. They had promised that processing time are 5 days but I still didnt get the invitation letter. I'm already behind schedule. On day 17, I couldnt wait no more. I make a move after Turkmen Embassy ensured me that once I got the invitation letter which will be emailed to me, I can collect the visa from their embassy in Tehran. It was really hard to say goodbye to Fida after staying more than 2 weeks at her house. We had already been the best of friends and Fida actually asked me to stay longer, but the ride must continue. I felt really heart broken when I bided her good bye and viewed the last glimpse of her thru my side mirror. Without realizing, tears started to roll on my cheeks. Thank you very much Fida and Col Zek for the wonderful hospitality during my stay in Ankara. I will cherish this until my last breath.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The wind was a bit strong as I made my way to Goreme via D260 – D765. The weather was fine and the view was spectacular with golden and greenish wheat fields and rocky mountains. The road was sometimes good and sometimes so-so. It took me 4.15 hours and 302kms to reach the small town of Goreme. The rugged barren rocky view was a clear sign that I had reached this place which was famed for its cave houses and hot air balloon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Its not difficult to find Red River Tours office, the meeting point for me to meet my Air BnB host, Cave. He brought me to the hostel cave and I got my first experience staying in a cave house. It was cold inside my cave room. Before iftar, Cave brought me to Love Valley for sightseeing and sunset viewing. This place was name as such due to the many male genital like rock structure around this area. It were very unique.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next morning, I woke up early for the hot air balloon experience. I had always wanted to experience this and I got a good price from Cave since I'm staying at his place. The experience and excitement were hard to describe. It was sooo beautiful viewing the rock formations and cave houses from above. It made me felt so small compared to God's power. The sunrise added colours to the magical view below me and I felt as if I'm in a fairy land. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Once done with the tour, I checked out and make a move towards Erzincan. It was a long 545kms ride which I did in 7.15hrs, with no break except for quick stop for pics. The ride for the first half was ok with good road condition, but the 2nd half was quite taxing as the road after Sivas was bad, sunken and very bumpy. I had to fight side wind as well. My lips were peeling due to the dryness and the wind. Anyway the view was spectacular. I love Turkey's landscape, its so beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">My last destination in Turkey is Dogubeyazit, a town not far from Turkish – Iranian border. I took D100/E80 route passing by Erzurum and Agri. The weather was good and less wind today. I must say that Erzincan to Agri was one of my bestest route in GDR. Even though I rode 500km in 7.30 hrs while fasting, but the amazing 'carpet' view of wild flowers of red, pink, white, purple and yellow made me forget the thirst and hunger.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>IRAN (16th – 24th JUNE 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Before leaving for the border, I stopped at a place which I since long wanted to see, which is 'The Landing of Noah's Ark'. It was a 5kms offroad and some badly broken asphalt with 4kms steep climb on the narrow winding road to reach the visitors centre of this attraction. The stoned ark was located on top of the hill (up left in the pic below). I had to walk up to reach the ark to get a closer look. Theres no one here except me and a village boy guarding after his goats.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I didnt spend long time here bcos it started to drizzle. The steep loose gravels road would be slippery when it get wet so I hurriedly left the place. Thank god I managed to get down safely. I left Dogubeyazit and rode to the border. There were too many people at the Turkish immigration. People were shouting and a police was trying to control the situation. I didnt know whats going on. Some touts approached me but I told them its ok, and I can managed myself. I cued up at the long line. A nice guy asked me to follow him if I didnt want to wait 4 hrs to get my exit stamp. He assured me he's not a tout. He brought me straight to the counter and spoke something to the officer. I was lucky that the officer entertained me straight away. The officer said something in Turkish which the guy translated to me, asking about Iranian visa. I told them that Malaysians can get a VOA for Iran. The guy asked if I'm sure about it, I said thats what Iranian Embassy in Ankara told me. He said ok then, but if theres trouble, he asked me to find him there. I thanked him and registered GD’s exit at the customs. It was very easy. Thirty mins and I'm done on the Turkish side.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then I rode to the Iranian side. I had to wait 10mins for the guard to open the gate. And after that, Iranian hospitality begins. The guard brought me straight to the immigration office. The officer asked about visa and I told him the same thing. The officer made a call and 2mins later he stamped my passport. Then the guard brought me to the customs. My Carnet was stamped for the 1st time. Later, another officer inspected GD and then he said I'm good to go. Woweee...so quick!!! Its only 30mins and I'm done. I cant believe it. I had mentally prepared that its going to be 2 - 3hrs, bcos thats what I always heard from my overlander friends. Theres no fees or insurance to pay. Ohhh I'm sooo loving Iran :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">However, the not so good thing abot Iranians was their reckless driving attitude. They drove like maniacs, switching lanes as they liked and they didnt follow the road rules. I had to show my middle finger (excuse me) to a car who almost ran into me. To make matters worse, rain started to fall as soon as I entered this country. A storm and heavy wind came soon after when I'm crossing the desert. It was a very torturing ride. However there were some very unique landscapes which I managed to see while otw. Finally, I arrived chaotic Tabriz after riding approximately 350kms in 8.30hrs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, I rode to Zanjan via route 32. It was raining a bit in the morning and the road was quiet. After a while, I realized that its Friday, a rest day for Iranians. No wonder the road was deserted. The road was sometimes 2 lanes and sometimes 3 lanes but the surface was not very smooth. Theres presence of strong wind but the view of the sandy and rocky hills were so so spectacular. I made it to Zanjan in 5 hours.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFKCBJTHmt1oGeaO63AJ8z6ZtlsgvxWQiothhb0-CWQukpDSlA_lORZ-TldHlUExSU_-nIcgDkNRUaqqHEx_zMSKJmXUJB4vu2gydhtxKJh1Lpt5Ggmisa2tCybCEzY7vYhydHx6u9V70/s1600/PIC+46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFKCBJTHmt1oGeaO63AJ8z6ZtlsgvxWQiothhb0-CWQukpDSlA_lORZ-TldHlUExSU_-nIcgDkNRUaqqHEx_zMSKJmXUJB4vu2gydhtxKJh1Lpt5Ggmisa2tCybCEzY7vYhydHx6u9V70/s640/PIC+46.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After being back otr for the past 6 days, riding approximately 2300kms from Ankara, to be honest, I'm exhausted. Riding, fasting and fighting the wind took so much of my energy. The ride into the capital city, Tehran which has13 million population was quite hectic. Again there was strong wind all the way from Zanjan to Qazvin, and the presence of wind turbines were the indicator. Theres nothing to view except the empty desert.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">One funny yet pissing me off thing was the too friendly attitude of the Iranians. They waved at me, took my pic and even tried to have a conversation with me on the busy road from their moving vehicle!!! I didnt mind that actually, but I do mind when I was struggling to keep my bike upright and keeping to my lane when being pushed by the side wind, and yet, those drivers drove side by side and very close to me, exactly to the direction where the wind was pushing me, just to ask me where I'm from, where I'm going and welcome to Iran. Crazy. I knew they were not aware that they could endanger me by doing that. I hope if theres any Iranians reading this note, please, tell your people, dont do that. I know you are the friendliest people on earth but this attitude is very dangerous.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I made my way to Sarah's house. Sarah was a dear friend whom I knew since 2008. We had been lost in contact since Iranian government banned FB, but I managed to find her in internet few months before I arrived Tehran. It was soooo good to meet her again. She was only 18 when I met her the first time, and she's sooo pretty now. We hugged very long time but I couldnt stay long as I need to send my bike for servicing. I had contacted Mr Vaziri who once worked for Yamaha Iran (but the business had stopped since 10 years back due to some problems). Mr Vaziri arrived and I followed him to TVS Motor. GD had his EO and oil filter changed, brake pad changed, air filter and spark plug cleaned, chain tightened and lubed, radiator and battery power checked, all screws tightened, air tires filled, coolant topped up, and side mirror fixed. The mechanics even washed the bike. When I asked Mr Vaziri how much was the total cost, he said, "Its very expensive. You had to rob a bank to make the payment." I'm puzzled. With a pat on my back he continued, "Its our complimentary. You are our guest." OMG. Iranian hospitality. TQVM sir...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I stayed 3 nights at Sarah's house in Tehran and I managed to get my Turkmenistan visa (finally). It cost me USD55 and about 1.30hrs of waiting at the embassy. After that Sarah drove me to Malaysian Embassy in Tehran and I reported to H.E. Raja Nurshirwan Zainal Abidin.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmeqcb1Mh_T3gKOP4Y4ndi1uUCc2Gf88OblAahS0gUgw7X8X332w4dnTmHn9ORTx50MbOoTQ9HqpbEq8Z1Q9Z9ZcHImheVzA78_W9v9LvTI4rJ6iIakAmnDiM_ZuHpbRK7oDouDW8ZnA/s1600/PIC+49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmeqcb1Mh_T3gKOP4Y4ndi1uUCc2Gf88OblAahS0gUgw7X8X332w4dnTmHn9ORTx50MbOoTQ9HqpbEq8Z1Q9Z9ZcHImheVzA78_W9v9LvTI4rJ6iIakAmnDiM_ZuHpbRK7oDouDW8ZnA/s400/PIC+49.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I was also being interviewed for Jamejam newspaper and CHAMEDAN magazine on my last day in Tehran. I didnt do any sightseeing in Tehran as it was fasting month and very hot during day time. Besides I had visited Tehran before and had seen all the attractions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After 3 days, I left Tehran with a sad feeling. Sarah and her parents were like family to me. Its hard to let go our hugging, however the journey must go on. For 2 days, I rode 1000kms on E44 Imam Reza Expressway and reached Mashhad, the holy city for the shi'ite. The ride had been quite taxing with temperature of 40'C, especially when crossing Dasht-e-Kavir, a sand stone and salty desert plateau, which was said that in the heat of summer, was one of the hottest places on the planet. The wind was strong as well, as the vast desert enabled the wind to blow without any disturbance. From a distance, I saw sandstorms and twister of sands spiralling in the air. I had to fight side and head wind again which at times, I could only move at 50kmh. My arms and neck were so sore but I still keep my fast. Theres nothingness at the desert except sands. I also noticed GD consumed more gas due to this. Normally, a full 12 liter tank can last 400kms, but these 2 days, it didnt even cover 300kms per tank. Luckily gas here was sold at IRR10000 (USD0.35) per liter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I stayed two nights in Mashhad and managed to visit the holy shrine of Imam Reza. It was very impressive and beautiful.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-42833469063350023252016-10-10T02:16:00.002-07:002016-10-10T02:16:30.531-07:00PART 13: BALKAN COUNTRIES<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Macedonia was actually not in my route. It was a last minute decision to enter this country bcos I wanted to see Lake Ohrid from the Macedonian side. Upon declaring my bike at the customs at Kjafasan border, the officer insisted to see my GC. He wouldnt let me in until I showed him one. The price for GC were EUR50 for 15 days (thats the minimum). It was very expensive. I felt like going back into Albania, but I was so tired and cold after the stressful ride and my hosts house was just 26kms away fr the border. I didnt have any choice but to purchase it. This is the most expensive GC among all 28 countries in GDR so far, considering that I will be in the country for 3 days only.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally, I reached Labunishta village after riding 400kms in 10hrs. It was a very tiring and cold ride indeed. The challenge didnt last there as I had to ride on a very narrow and steep road, or I could say alley, to reach my host's house which was located almost on highest most part of the village. It was indeed a scary ride as my small powered bike with heavy loads at the back seemed almost unable to climb up the steep ascend. The last right turn to reach my host's house was so sharp and steep. Past experience had taught me that with my lack of skill and the lack of power on GD's side, taking the turn right away will cause disaster. I had to continue riding straight onto a flatter ground, than only slowly made the turn. Thank god I didnt drop my bike, but God knows how fast my heart beat at that time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bertha, her husband, Cani and their grand daughters were already waiting for me. Bertha was an Indonesian who married to Cani, a successful jewelery businessman (specialized in pearls) in Macedonia. She was introduced to me by Adeeb, a famous Malaysian cyclist who rode all the way from UK back to Msia. Bertha served me hot soup right away when she saw me shivering. How shouldnt I be? I had been riding under the rain in the mountain for 10 hours!!! After taking a hot shower, Bertha served me delicious dinner of steamy white rice and ayam penyet with sambal (smashed fried chicken with hot chilly paste), a very famous Indonesian cuisine. It was sooooo delicious. This must had been the best ayam penyet rice that I had tasted in my whole life. Thanks Bertha.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I spent three nights in Labunishta. Bertha and Cani treated me like their very own sister. I felt very touched by their kindness. The same goes to all my previous kind hosts. Bertha told me lots of things, mainly about her past and her experience living in Macedonia for the past few years. I was very amazed by the strong will of this lady. She may seemed small in size, but the way she fought her life battle was undescribable, something which I'm sure many of us will surrender if we were to be in her shoes. Despite being a full time housewife currently and a housemaid previously when she worked in Hong Kong, she was rich in knowledge as she spent most of her time reading academic books. If only her fate turned out differently, I wont be surprised if this lady became a successful woman holding an important post as she's a very smart person. She impressed me with her thoughts and opinions and I must say that I really admired her. She also talked about the charity and Islamic foundation which she raised while in Hong Kong, how she put her efforts (without being paid) in teaching Islamic knowledge to Mualaf and whoever needed one. How many of us could do that? On the other hand, her husband, Cani was a very generous man when it came to Islamic charity. His family and himself had built few mosques in and around Labunishta. Every few months, Cani will allocate a certain amount of his money to buy groceries such as rice grains, flour, sugars etc and he donated them to the poor villagers. Whoever in need will come to him asking for help. Mashaa Allah. My salute to both of them and may Allah grant them jannah for their good deeds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I managed to visit Sturga, the Lake Ohrid city, during my stay in Macedonia. Bertha showed me around the beautiful old city. We strolled along the charming little shops and houses with beautiful flowers dangling from the balconies. We also visited an old mosque and a church and spent some time drinking the view of beautiful Lake Ohrid.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bertha also brought me to an Old Fort near Sturga which I could see birds eye view of the whole city and Lake Ohrid from above.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Its time to say goodbye to my wonderful hosts. Both Bertha and Cani tried to persuade me to stay longer, at least 1 week more, unfortunately I couldnt do that. Bertha gave me lots of food for my upcoming trip that I didnt have the space to put them in my box and panniers. I also got some souvenirs from her. How kind hearted person she and her husband were. It was hard to leave them. I hope we will meet again someday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The ride from Labunishta to Macedonia – Greece border was interesting. I passed lots of wheat fields. Some were still green, some were golden, waiting to be harvested. Wild flower fields of white, yellow and red dominated the view. At one point, my GPS directed me to take an offroad. I thought that was the correct road so I followed it. It get more and more difficult later with big gravels, whilst in the same time I saw paved road ran alongside with the offroad. Then only it crossed my mind that the road I'm riding now must had been the old road. I found a path which linked to the new road but it was quite a steep climb. I managed to do it but I wasted half and hour riding on the offroad. Later, again my GPS played trick on me when it directed me to a secondary road inside the villages. I followed the road for about 20kms and the whole time I was doubting if it was the correct way. My instinct proved that it was the wrong way as the paved road ended just like that, but my GPS showed as if theres still road ahead. I turned back 5kms and managed to find another road which was connected to the correct one. Again, I loose some precious time here. I hated it when my GPS decided to play games with me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I arrived the border and exited Macedonia without any hassle. To enter Greece, I need to show the officer my GC. Thats the first thing the officer asked. Greece was listed under EU countries, unfortunately my GC for the EU's expired just 2 days ago. Previously, I purchased a 2 months GC but failure to follow my own itinerary resulted in failure to enter Greece, the last European country for me before the GC expired. I had to pay an expensive lesson for that. It was EUR100 for 1 month GC, too pricey for me considering that I will only be in Greece for a period of 1 week only. Okey, lesson learnt. Next time make sure to follow what you had planned, or if you're unsure, its better to purchase a longer period GC which will be cheaper than purchasing a new individual one.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The road in Greece was better than in Macedonia. My destination for the day was Trikala. The view was interesting as well. I really loved the wild flowers, so beautiful. Before reaching Trikala, I enjoyed the rock formation Meteora views which was very famous here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, I rode to the capital city of Greece, Athens. The distance were 360kms, via E65 and E75. I had to pay toll for 4 times. It was a very windy day and my small bike was swept by the wind few times. It was quite scary, but the view from the mountain road (which I'm not sure the name) was awesome. There were lots of vehicles upon entering this big city, but that was not a big issue. The big issue for me was how steep the road in Athens were!!! Everywhere in the city, you had to ascend and descend steep road and it was narrow. My host's house was also situated on the steep road. However, to my amusement, Panos who was also a biker and a tall guy, had some trouble to help bring GD inside his yard. He said its unbelievable that GD which looked small in size but was actually quite heavy. LOL...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I stayed 3 nights in Athens and managed to meet Krista, a beautiful and friendly lady biker. She was linked to me by Tiffany Coates (my idol) and Rashmi (the founder of Global Women Who Ride). The three of us were featured in GWWR. We met at a famous bikers meeting place and I met some other men and women riders. They were all very nice. They were amazed to know that I had almost done ¾ of the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In Athens, I also managed to visit the first modern olympic games stadium. It was a fascinating feeling to be here, not because of the structure or the architecture of the stadium, but for the glory and history which once created at this place. This was the stadium which witnessed the modern olympic games came alive after being banned for hundreds of years. I stared at the track for a long time, trying to imagine the glory here way back in 1896.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Visiting Acropolis is a must when you're in Athens. I was lucky because it was Museums Day today, so the entrance was free. I had to climb up a hill to reach the site. There were too many people since it was a free entrance day to visit all historical sites, anywhere in the world. In a way, I could save money, but it also meant that I had to 'fight' with other visitors to get the best picture. Acropolis was impressive, but when I was there, restoration works were ongoing and there were many parts which was covered by scaffolding. It was quite frustrating, especially after seeing a documentary showed in the Acropolis Museum of how beautiful this ancient site was (without the scaffolding). Anyway, in my personal opinion, Lebanon offered much more interesting ancient sites compared to here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After 3 nights in Athens, I made my way to Thessaloniki. Since today's ride was long (530km), I decided to take the motorway. Through my experience riding in France, Italy and Balkans, you can only do 50kms per hour if you took the back road, due to the low speed limit, lots of roundabouts, traffic lights etc. If you stop frequently for pics, the time spent on the road will be much longer. The motorway here in Greece was nice and less traffic, but the number of tolls were unbelievable. I had to pay tolls for 12 times which cost me more than EUR20. Theres one part that the road suddenly shrink to a single lane, narrow and winding for 19kms, and I had to pay approx EUR2 toll for that part too. It took me 7.30hrs to reach Thessaloniki (with stopping). I took some time to enjoy the seafront view of this city.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">On my last day in Greece, I rode to Alexandrapouli, a famous beach town facing Agean Sea. The ride was okey and fortunately, no toll. At one time, as I want to get down from my bike, I felt something holding my Givi pouch and it was stuck. I pulled my pouch with some force and it was freed. However, I noticed that the buckle strap was broken. I felt very angry with myself. The waterproof pouch had served me well and never fail to keep my important belongings stay dry inside it during heavy rain, no matter how long it rained. I had been wearing it on my waist everyday and theres not a single tear on the pouch even though the ride was rough. But now the buckle strap was broken due to my own carelessness. Sigh...</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-30680101516095458472016-10-10T01:57:00.002-07:002016-10-10T01:57:16.341-07:00PART 12: BALKAN COUNTRIES <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>CROATIA, BOSNIA, MONTENEGRO & ALBANIA (10TH – 15TH MAY 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The 12 hours Jadrolinija ferry ride from Ancona (Italy) to Split (Croatia) was okey. Adriatic Sea was calm so the ride was smooth. The ferry arrived Split Harbour at 8am. I got on my bike and rode to the immigration. Border crossing was smooth and easy. The customs asked for Croatia's Green Card which I didnt have any. The one that I have didnt cover Balkan countries. I lied to him saying that the GC was in the bag which I strapped on the pillion seat and it would be troublesome to take it out (a method taught by advrider friends to me....LOL). Looking at the long lines of vehicles behind me, the officer waved me off. Yeayyy, it worked :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Split city was exactly like I saw it in 2010. Nothing had changed. I rode along the coast to the south of the country. Too bad that it was a cloudy day, so I couldnt enjoy the blue Adriatic Sea. The road was quite narrow and winding which went up down up down along the way. On my left was the mountain and on my right was the sea. Most of the time the road I was riding on was higher and the sea was down below the cliff. It would have been very beautiful if the sun didnt hide itself behind the clouds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">As this was my 2nd time in Croatia and I had covered most of the country before, I didnt intend to spend any night here but rode straight to Bosnia. I crossed the border at Metkovic. It was a very small border and the border post was a toll plaza kinda office. I didnt have to get down from my bike at all. Everything was settled at the window. I need to hand over my passport and GD's registration document to the officer and it was done in less than 10 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bosnia too was a second time visit for me. Bosnia was a small country in the Balkans which was once ruled by the Ottoman empire from 1463 – 1878. My actual plan was to ride straight, crossing the smallest part of this country and after that cross into Montenegro. However, I changed my mind due to a request from a Malaysian traveler who asked to meet me in Mostar. The ride into Mostar was okey. The road was so-so. I had to ride in few unlit tunnels. It was very dark but fortunately the tunnels were short in length. Nearing Mostar, the view of the green Neretva River came into sight. It wasnt difficult for me to find the hostel which I booked via Airbnb.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">About 1 hour later, Menk Mahawangsa, the Msian traveler, came to meet me. Menk was a famous backpacker icon in Msia. At such young age, he had traveled solo to many countries and its always a long term traveling. His epic solo travel was overland from Msia to UK, to the place where he once lived when he was a little boy. He managed to find the same house. It was interesting to hear his story. We had lunch together and after that we walked to the Old Bridge, Stari Most. There were too many tourists and it was very crowded everywhere.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I noticed lots of differences in Mostar now compared to 6 years back. It was December 2010, winter, when I first came here. The old city was very deserted. Perhaps it was off season, so there were very few tourists at that time. It was very cold then, and stalactites of ice could be seen dangling from the tree branches. Part of the Neretva River surface was frozen and theres not many souvenir shops, only some along Kujundziluk. At that time, I really felt the effects of a postwar city by the stillness and the quietness around me, and I drowned myself in the emotions while walking from tomb stone to another tomb stone in the many cemeteries, feeling sad on how young the Mostarians lost their lives during the war. But now, the old city was so lively and full of people. Lots of cafes, bars, shops, loud music and everything. Its good for the economy, but I somehow felt that it had lost its charm as a postwar city. The war museum and mosques which were free to enter last time were now not free anymore. Everything had its price. The only thing remained the same was the green green Neretva River.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">During my time here, both Menk and I managed to visit some old mosques and we climbed up a minaret to enjoy the view of the old city. From above, we could see that the right side of the old city belonged to the Christian Croat community and the left side belonged to the Muslim Bosnian community. They had a long complicated history with each other but now they lived in peace. They learnt well from the unpleasant bitter past.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">We also walked from cemeteries to cemeteries. Graveyards were norms here. Effects of war could be seen everywhere. Mostarians preserved the war proof as they didnt want to forget what had happened here in 1993, and during the previous wars. Bosnia went through three major wars for the past hundred years. The First World War in the early 1900's, Second World War in the mid 1900's and Bosnian War in 1993.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">After 5 hours walking and chatting, its time for Menk to go back to Sarajevo. We were not aware of the time as we had so much fun talking to each other as if we had been friends for a long time. I felt at ease with this young man who was a funny guy, yet matured and wise despite of his young age. I guessed traveling had made him into such, as how traveling had moulded me in becoming who I am today. Goodbye Menk. Good luck in all your future business + travel plans you had in mind. I hope to meet you again someday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day, I left Mostar and rode to the Bosnia – Montenegro border. It was a fun ride with lovely views, green Neretva River, sheeps, some twisties and some straights.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Montenegro was a very beautiful country. Green mountains, lovely twisties and nearing to the capital city, Kotor, the beautiful bay welcomed you with amazing views. It was so hard for me to focus on the road as I kept looking at the bay down below.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It wasnt hard to locate my hostel which was situated right next to the bay. I could enjoy the beautiful view from my room window.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I'm supposed to meet Msian advrider friends but it was only before sunset that they arrived my hostel. It was soooo nice to meet Faizal Sukree again, after the last time I met him in Madrid. This time, he came with Musa and Musa's wife. They were doing Europe and Balkan ride together. We walked to the old city and had dinner together. We exchanged route infos as I had came from Croatia (north) and they had came from Albania (south). Thanks guys for meeting me and buying me dinner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next day was a very wet day as I made my way out of Kotor Bay. The road was very slippery and many times I felt GD's tires skidded. I had to ride with lots of caution. I did two crossings today. The first border was at Sukobin to enter Albania. This border was located in the mountain. I didnt hv to pay to bring GD in. Faizal Sukree had warned me that theres plenty of road blocks when he rode in Albania. I didnt want to get into trouble if the police stopped me so I purchased Albanian insurance for EUR13.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The ride became more stressful due to heavy rain all day since early morning. The narrow mountain road was so slippery. About 30kms to Tirana the road was quite bad with pot holes and the driving attitude was crazy. I felt as if I'm entering El Alto, Bolivia. After I exited Tirana, it was again narrow, winding and slippery all the way to the Macedonian border (again in the mountain) with thick fog blocking the view.</span><br />
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-84732526515315475392016-07-31T05:41:00.002-07:002016-07-31T05:41:19.862-07:00PART 11: WESTERN EUROPE (ITALY)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ITALY (26 APRIL – 9 MAY 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I entered Italy without any difficulties. I rode along the coast via SS1 from San Remo to Genoa. It was a very beautiful hilly ride with beautiful warm weather but a bit stressful as the road was narrow, winding, lots of vehicles, traffic lights and round abouts. The speed limit was 50kmh only. It took me almost 4 hours to reach Genoa which was only 200kms away. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Since my destination was Milano, I decided to take the A7 highway. I passed lots of tunnels. When I need to put gas, I was surprised that the prica for RON95 gas was EUR1.60, the most expensive for me so far. I reached Milano within 2 hours after that. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Milano is the most important city in Italy. After the 2nd world war, the city had rebuilt itself into a thriving cosmopolitan business capital. What made Milano interesting compared to other places was that the city was truly more about the lifestyle of enjoying worldly pleasures, a paradise for shopping, football, opera, and nightlife. Milano remained the market place for Italian fashion. In Milano, I took a free tour and was taken to the gothic cathedral Duomo, Plaza Del Duomo, the stock exchange building and Castello Sforzesco. I also visited the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, an ancient and glamorous arcaded shopping gallery, which I could only feast my eyes, but couldnt afford to buy anything there. I also managed to drop by at San Siro Stadium, the AC Milan and Inter Milan football stadium.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My next destination in Italy was Brescia. I never include this industrial town in my route in the beginning, but after I found out that Brescia was where the headquarter of Givi was located, I made a detour. Its a must and very important for me to drop by and visit Givi as they were my title sponsor for Global Dream Ride. It was an easy 110kms ride via the back road which filled with beautiful poppy flowers and I reached Givi HQ in less than 2 hours. Simona Montini and Miriam Martinazzoli, reps from Givi HQ greeted me and took me out for lunch. We talked about my ride and how Givi products which had given to me had performed. I told them everything was good and I was very happy and satisfied with Givi products. They also briefed me about the agenda for tomorrow's event, where I would be doing a presentation in front of the media people. I felt goosebumps upon hearing that because its not the same when doing a presentation in front of ordinary people, and in front of the press. After that, we went back to Givi HQ where both of them let me try new outfits to replace the old ones. I was also given some gifts such as a casual sweater, Tshirts, and gloves. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was introduced to the mechanic, Alessandro, and he helped to fix and replaced some items which had worn out due to the extreme ride. Well, actually all Givi items which I had were still in good condition (to proof how good quality Givi products were). Only the colours had faded because being under the sun and rain for more than 7 months already, but Alessandro insisted to replace them. He also offered to check my bike and changed the engine oil which I gladly accepted. After that, Miriam send me to the hotel (complimentary from Givi), and that night, Cristina Lodrina, Givi's vice president, took me out for dinner. We had a nice conversation while eating.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The date 29th April will definitely be the most memorable day in my entire life. To be honest. I didnt sleep very well last night due to the thrill and excitement of whats awaiting me on this special day. GD and I made our entrance at Givi HQ at 11am, and was given a big applause by all the staff and the journalists. Mr and Mrs Visenzi, and their daughter Hendrika were there to welcome me too. I was soooo thrilled. After that, I was taken to the conference room. I gave a one hour presentation and Giampaolo Deambrogi acted as my translator. I also showed the audience a piece of my video clip which showed my success to reach Ushuaia, “the end of the world.” I had no idea that the video moved some of them to tears. After I'm done with the presentation, Mr Visenzi handed me a bouquette of flowers. That was so sweet. After that, it was my turn to be interviewed personally by the journalists. I tried my very best to answer all the questions. I was very relieved when Cristina told me later that the presentation that I just did was very successful and all the journalists were very impressed. Thank god :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Later, Cristina told me that Mr Visenzi agreed to donate EUR1000 for my ride. I was sooooo speechless and couldnt help tears. I hugged Mr Visenzi, whom I already felt as my father. What a kind man he was. I was so touched and I thanked him for his generousity. He patted my shoulder and just smiled while wishing me all the best for my remaining journey. I would never ever forget his kindness to me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After that, Miriam and Marco showed me around. I was taken to the production site and watched how things were assembled. I was introduced to some of the staff and also watched a safety test for helmet. It was very impressive and now, I am more confident than ever to wear a Givi helmet. It was indeed the best and the safest helmet which you could really rely on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then, Miriam and Marco brought me for a ride into Brescia old city for a photography session. We were escorted by two traffic policemen. I posed in front of the Capitolium, Piaza Loggia – Town Hall, the old and new cathedral, and we also rode up to the castle. The view of Brescia from the castle was very nice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Summary of the event at Givi HQ Brescia can be watched here...</span></div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jPMn6yfvyA0/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jPMn6yfvyA0?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Before going back to my hotel, I said goodbye to Simona and the office staff, and later Miriam took me back to the hotel. That night, two Miriams accompanied me for dinner. The other Miriam was an advrider too. Her name was Miriam Orlandi. We had a very interesting chat with lots of laughter. Miriam Orlandi happened to be a chiropractic and she gave me two free massages for my paining hands, on that night, (and the next morning). She also gave me a bottle of cream to ease the pain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I went back to my hotel with lots of sweet memories. Even though tired, I was very happy and I felt a sense of fulfillness. Thank you very much Givi for not only supporting my ride with your awesome products, giving me some cash for my upcoming journey, but also giving me the chance to share my experience and to speak of my satisfactory on the the items which had been given to me. Thank you. Thank you very much.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I left memorable Brescia and head to Venice. It was not in my plan to visit Venice, but since this city was just 212kms away, and many people had been telling me not to miss Venice since it was very near already, I made up my mind to visit it. I passed beautiful lake Garda and took some pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I arrived my hosts house just outside Venice after riding for 6 hours (with stoppings for pics). I was hosted by Ridza and Diah, a Malaysian couple who had been living here for few years. Their sister, Yaya was there too for vacation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the evening, Ridza and Yaya took me to Venice by bus and we walked to Piazza San Marco. Its a very lively place with beautifully lighted souvenir shops and surroundings. The next day, I went there again to get a day view of the place. I spent few hours strolling slowly and checking out the shops. Souvenir from Murano glass were something which caught my eyes but I couldnt buy any because the risk of breaking it since I'm on my motorbike. However I did purchase a medium size Venetian mask to be taken home. I loved to watch the gondola cruising by the canals, but the fare was EUR80. Too pricey for my wallet, so I didnt try it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After 2 nights in Venice, I said goodbye to my kind hosts and rode to Florence or Firenze, via SS309 – S65. It was a chilly wet ride almost all the way. I felt some wind which came from Adriatic Sea while riding along the coast. The road got narrower and winding when I crossed National Park Foreste Casentinesi. The view was very green and beautiful. I climbed up a mountain pass and had two very close calls. Both hapened at the very tight and steep hairpin bends and both times with buses from the opposite direction which took half of my lane. OMG, only few inches spared between me and the bus!!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I managed to find the hotel which was a complimentary from Givi. It was a very nice and luxury room for me. I was soooo tired that I slept from late afternoon and only woke up at midnight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next day was spent on sightseeing in Florence. This city was the capital for Tuscany region and was considered a cultural, artistic and architectural gem. It was a beautiful city, but too touristy for me. Too many tourist everywhere. I wonder how pack this city would be during weekend? Anyway all the attractions were close to each other. I managed to climb the hill up to Piazzale Michelangelo to hv a full view of the city.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also visited the old city, few churches and Duomo cathedral, and walked on the famous bridge, Ponte Vecchio and its Palazzo. It was very beautiful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I continued my ride to Bolsena. The challenge started with my gps directed me to take a steep narrow pebble stone road to exit Florence. I hate it when my gps did this to me. I cant check the gps choice of route as the screen will freeze when I slide my finger on it. So I will have to just follow its choices and later worried if my small power fully loaded bike couldnt afford to climb the steep road. Luckily I exited to SR2 safely. It was a very fun ride with beautiful view and warm weather.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Suddenly my ride was interrupted. The road was closed. Theres no one for me to ask for alternative road. I took an offroad nearby hoping that it will rejoin with SR2 but it came to a dead end. I rode back the same way I had taken, and managed to find someone, but he couldnt speak English and I cant speak Italian. He told me bla bla bla which I only understood 25%. I continued riding as what I understood and had to climb a narrow winding and steep road (but offered beautiful view of the valley down below) to Abbadia San Salvatore. Worried now as GD was low on fuel. I asked a guy who could speak some English, and managed to find my way back to SR2 via Piancastagnaio - Casa Del Corto. I lost 1 hour due to this, but the good thing was the very beautiful wild flowers scenery that I managed to capture with my cam.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Finally I arrived beautiful Lake Bolsena after riding 212kms in 5 hours. I stayed at Hotel Eden, also complimentary from Givi. This hotel was situated by the lake side. Its very beautiful and serene. Thank you very much Givi for sponsoring me the room and my dinner for that night, and thanks to Simona for choosing this 'little heaven on earth' for me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next day, I rode to the capital city, Roma via SR2. The distance was 140km only, There were lots of traffic upon entering Roma, but it was not so difficult to find the Malaysian Embassy there. I reported to the Ambassador, H. E. Dato Abdul Samad Othman. He was a very friendly person and invited me to stay at his residence. The staff, Miss Zebine, Mrs Norli and Mrs Sukinah took me out for lamb briyani lunch. The next day, I gave a presentation at the embassy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">During my 4 nights stay in Roma, I also managed to report to H. E. Tan Sri Bernard Dompok, the Malaysian Ambassador for Vatican City. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also did a short sightseeing trip at this world's smallest country. Its only 0.44sq km in size. This country was surrounded entirely by the city of Rome. Vatican was the center for Roman Catholic and the Pope lived there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Visiting Roma will not be completed without seeing the Colloseum and surroundings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I said goodbye to Dato Samad, her kind wife, Datin Zaiton and their son, Adam, who had treated me like their own family. I felt very sad to leave them, but today I must continue my ride. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I rode a fun 310kms ride from Roma to Ancona. The weather was very nice, not too hot and not too cold. There were some twisties, some greens and its easy to find the ferry ticket office and the pier. The fare for myself and GD was EUR60. It was a 12 hours ferry ride from Ancona to Split, Croatia. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">At 7.45pm I said goodbye to Italy. I have had a wonderful 15 days here with lots of sweet memories. Again, I'm thanking GIVI, and my hosts in Venice (Ridza & Diah), and in Roma (the Ambassador, Dato Abdul Samad Othman & Datin Zaiton) for the hospitality. My memories in Italy will be cherished in my heart forever n ever.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wonder whats awaiting for me in the Balkans.....</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-18938128298225619102016-07-31T04:54:00.006-07:002018-09-04T23:03:11.436-07:00PART 10: WESTERN EUROPE (BACK TO SPAIN, BACK TO FRANCE & MONACO)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>BACK TO SPAIN (17 – 23 APRIL 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It was pretty chilly even though the sun was shining when I exited Lisbon via Vasco Da Gama bridge. I took N4 – A5 road and was sooo thrilled with the beautiful white, yellow and purple wild flowers along the way. It was an easy 275km ride to Merida. My Air BnB host was a Muslim. She's a very nice person and she served me lunch and dinner even though its not included in the rental.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next day, I rode 476kms to Madrid. It took me longer as my gps directed me to take a tertier road, which was narrow and winding. However, the view was very nice and it was a peaceful ride as I seldom met other vehicles on the road. I spent too much time stopping for pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Realizing that I'm already late, I sped fast towards Madrid on A5. There were some hassles and tense moments for me when the 2 lanes highway expands to 8 lanes with fast speeding vehicles racing the road. I also had to ride inside a 3km long tunnel. My gps lost its signal and I didnt know which exit to take while inside the tunnel. I took the wrong exit and had to go round and round to find the correct way. I found the building which my embassy should be located but I couldnt see the embassy's office because it was actually inside a shopping mall. I had to park GD a bit far and walked to the address. I managed to find it and reported the Ambassador, H. E Kennedy Jawan. One of the staff, sis Zarina invited me to stay with her which I gladly accepted.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next day, sis Zarina and I fetched another Msian advrider, Faizal Sukree who happened to ber her relative. I already knew that some Msian riders will be in Madrid for their ride in Spain but I had no idea that Faizal will be leading them. I received a call from the Ambassador's secretary telling me that the Amb invited me to his residence for dinner, so I told her about the presence of the other riders. The Ambassador was so nice to invite all of us to come over. So on that night, we had a nice gathering at H.E. Kennedy Jawan's residence. His wife, Madam Josephine and the staff made Laksa Sarawak, a popular traditional cuisine originated from the Ambassador's home town.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Before saying goodbye to my kind host and all the riders, I managed to visit the famous Real Madrid stadium.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then, I rode 346kms to Zaragoza via A2, and the next day, another 410kms via N11 – A2 – C25 to Girona. It was a pretty chilly ride as its cloudy with on and off showers, but enjoyful with beautiful view & twisties.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also met my friend, Jorge Saeta in Girona. We first met in Laos in 2007 and later in Malaysia in 2008. It was very nice to meet him again after so long.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>BACK TO FRANCE (23 – 25 APRIL 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My ride from Girona to Marseille was a very stressful one. It started with a very lovely weather and temperature. But as soon as I entered France, things changed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">While riding along the French Riveira, I had to fight strong side wind again. I was being swept by the wind for 5 times. I had already lost control of my bike. It was very very scary, scarier than at Ruta 40 in Argentina. Scarier than in Spain. God knows I almost wet my pants. When being swept by the ferocious wind, GD's wheels was no longer touching the road. At times like this, I envied those riding big bikes. They didnt seem to be affected by the wind at all. Only smaller bikes like myself had to struggle. I had to fight the strong wind for 9 continous hours!!! Even though the view was sooooo beautifful, but I couldnt enjoy it. I was very tired but sooo relieved when I finally reached my hosts place at Aix de Provence. I did some research to check on the wind. No wonder the wind was crazy. My route today was along Languedoc-Roussillon region, which was the windiest place in France, caused by the wind named Mistral. No wonder I could see wind turbine everywhere.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I stayed 2 nights here and took the chance to visit Marseille. The wind was even more stronger here. I can hardly walk as the wind kept pushing me backwards. I had to force myself to brave the wind and visit the super famous Port Vieux, and the surroundings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>MONACO (25 – 26 APRIL 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The wind was still strong when I left Aix and headed east. However, it was a very nice and beautiful ride along French Riveira via DN7, passing towns such as Cannes and Nice. I stopped too many time for pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The ride to Monaco was even more beautiful, but the road was smaller. It was really a stunning ride along the narrow, winding and hilly coast. Blue skies, blue ocean, big and small boats, yachts, the ordinary ones, the luxury ones, good weather and some wind, but not as bad as the other day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Entering the capital city, Monte Carlo, there were lots of road works going on with very bad traffic. I couldnt zip in between the vehicles as the road was small, so I was stucked between Ferrari, Maseratti, Lamborghini, Porsche...u name it :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Accommodation was very pricey, so I decided to pitch my tent near Menton Beach.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-79380798784050262392016-07-31T04:39:00.002-07:002016-07-31T04:39:11.292-07:00PART 9: WESTERN EUROPE (FRANCE, ANDORRA, SPAIN & PORTUGAL)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>FRANCE (30 MARCH – 4 APRIL 2016)</b></span></div>
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I said goodbye to Sue and rode to Newhaven pier via A27. I was early and had to wait for a while. The ferry check in was very straight forward. It departed at 10am and the crossing took me 6 hours. I arrived Dieppe, France and it took me only 10 mins to stamp my passport. It started to rain soon after and the back road (D2915) which I took was very slippery. It was a very chilly and exhausting ride due to the rain and because the back road was narrow with lots of traffic lights and roundabouts. Maximum speed limit was 70kmh only. I arrived Paris during peak hour and it took me ages to reach my hosts house at Mozart Avenue. My hosts, Mejar Zakhir Asni and his wife, Zirah welcomed me to their home. Mejar was an Assistant Defense Attache for Msian Embassy in Paris and they had been living in Paris for about 3 years. </div>
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This was my 2nd time in Paris. During my 1st time here, I didnt manage to visit Louvre Museum, so I took the opportunity to visit it this time. I did some research and I found out that the best time to visit this museum were on Wednesdays and Fridays late afternoon, as on these days, the museum opened until 8pm. I managed to view the famous Mona Lisa painting by Leornado da Vinci without having to haggle as there were not many visitors. </div>
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I also reported at Msian Embassy in Paris to H.E. Dato Ibrahim. After that I shared my riding story with all the staffs and families.</div>
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On my last day in Paris, my hosts took me for a sightseeing around the city. It was a very wet day, but nevertheless, I still enjoyed the sightseeing as Paris was a very historical city. All the buildings were carefully preserved for the tourist and the next generation to enjoy.</div>
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After 4 nights in Paris, I had to say good bye to my lovely and kind hosts and proceed with my journey. Mejar Zakhir guided me to exit Paris as I didnt want to be stuck anywhere since Paris Marathon Day was held on that morning and lots of roads will be closed. After that, I continued riding on my own, but taking the back road to avoid paying expensive tolls. As the other day, it was a very slow ride as I couldnt ride fast on this kind of road. The view was nice though.</div>
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After riding 350kms, I decided to take the toll road, or else I will only arrived my destination after it gets dark. It seemed that some of the roads on the highway were FOC, and some, you had to pay tolls. Whenever I approached a toll plaza, a camera will detect me and the screen will show the amount that I have to pay. This was different than the system in Malaysia. Finally, I reached Toulouse after riding for 724kms via N20 – D2020 – N20 in 10.30 hours. I was soooo exhausted. I went to my hosts place straight away. My host, Mejar Nurul, studied Nautical Engineering at a university in this town. She and her husband brought me out for a little sightseeing in this canal town. It was very windy and chilly, so we didnt stay long and went back to her place.</div>
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<b>ANDORRA (4 APRIL 2016 – 5 APRIL 2016)</b></div>
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Todays ride started with a very beautiful weather. I left Toulouse and head to the border. There were lots of yellow canolla fields. I really enjoyed the beautiful view. There were side winds too that I need to be careful.</div>
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Not far from the border, the road get narrower and more trucks. The view was soooo beautiful with rivers and green fields, that I wished I could stay there for one night to enjoy the view.</div>
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The sun hid behind the clouds as I entered Andorra, the 20th country for GDR. Soon after, ice rain started to fall and followed with snowfall when I was climbing up El Pass De La Casa. It was sooooo cold with strong winddd. The road became slippery. I was soooo scared as I was still on the mountain, riding on the winding road. I had to stop for shelter at a gas station and it took me 20 minutes to rub my hand to feel the warmth again.</div>
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After waiting and there was no sign that the weather will improve, I decided to continue riding. Descending on the wet, slippery and steep curve road was scarier than ever. I was reciting prayers all the time. Thank god I didnt fall even though few times the tires skided when I couldnt avoid snow which started to accumulate on the road. I cancelled my intention to play with snow at the ski resort due to the bad weather. I rode past the capital city, Andorra La Veila, and had to climb on a steep winding road for another 5kms to reach my hostel. The reason why I had to stay outside the capital city was because accommodation was very expensive here. I was shivering and soaked wet because I didnt wear my Givi rain coat. My mistake. Anyway, I was very lucky to get a single heated private room at the hostel for EUR20. It rained the whole day and night, so I just stayed in my room.</div>
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<b>SPAIN (5 APRIL – 15 APRIL 2016)</b></div>
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It still rained in the morning of 5th April. My heart sank. The temp is 5'C but I must continue riding. I rode carefully down the steep winding and slippery road. There were many times that I felt that my tires skided and I wondered if its because my tires were very new. Because of that, I had to be even more careful. It was a verryyy colddd ride and I was shivering all the way. I entered Spain with no hassle. It was a relief when the sign boards're familiar as I could understand the meaning. It should be a nice beautiful ride with twisties and I saw a very green river, greener than Neretva River in Mostar, but it was so cold so I didnt stop for pics. Its not fun riding in cold and wet especially when yr bike didnt has a heated grip.</div>
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I had to pay tolls 4 times to enter Barcelona via the tunnels. I should had taken another road, but it was cold and I want to arrive ASAP. The total amount was almost EUR20 for a distance of 170km (Spain part). After riding for 206kms, I reached Barcelona and had some difficulties to find my host's house. I had to ask a local to help me to call her. I stayed only 2 nights here as I had been to BCN before. I managed to do some sightseeing at Sagrada Familia, Plaza Catalunya, Sant Pau and Ramblas during my stay. Sagrada Familia was soooo impressive that I couldnt help staring at it for a long time, wondering how did Antonio Gaudi made this amazing cathedral. The only thing spoiling the view was the skylift and scaffolding which surrounded it.</div>
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My worst nightmare happened on the day I left BCN. In the morning, I couldnt start my bike. There was no sound at all after I had pressed the starter. I asked my host to push the bike from behind and the engine managed to come alive. I rode from BCN heading south. The wind was unbelievably strong after I passed Tarragona. It was similar to the wind at Ruta 40. It was sooo stressful because unlike the quiteness at Ruta 40, there were lots of vehicles on the road here. It was worse because there were too many high flyovers I had to ride on. It was scary when my small bike being pushed to the other side of the road. Then when I off the engine to put gas, the same thing happened. I couldnt start my bike, and I had to ask someone to push it from behind. Fortunately, the engine can be started. I was getting worried and wondering what was the problem, but I told myself to relax and I will find a mechanic once I arrived my destination. </div>
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My GPS also wanted to test my patience today. After I had repaired it in Lima, today, the screen froze again after it instructed me to enter Valencia. I wasted 1 hour trying to find the way to exit the city. However, I do managed to see some beautiful castle and historical buildings here. I passed lots of orange fields too.</div>
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Since todays ride was long, I had to put gas again for the 2nd time. This time, I was not lucky anymore. The bike couldnt be started even after being pushed, and the gas station was the one and only building at the highway. GD had never failed me before, and I was wondering what could be the cause. I was getting worried as failure to start the bike, meaning that I had to find a transportation to send it to the nearest workshop, and the cost wouldnt be cheap. The girl at the gas station counter didnt want to help me, but I was fortunate that there was a Bulgarian guy (who was also a biker, but on his car), was there at that time. He helped to take me to his mechanic at a very small village near L'Olleria, about 5kms from there. However, I had to wait for 1.30 hours for the mechanic to settle his job before he could check my bike which I left at the gas station, It was getting dark, and I'm dead tired and sooo hungry. Finally, the mechanic was able to follow us to my awaiting bike. After checking, he managed to sort out the problem. There were some wiring shorts at the starter, which was most probably due to rain, snow and cold ride few days ago. The problem was settled within few minutes. I was soooo relieved. I thanked Cristoph and the kind mechanic who didnt want to take any money from me.</div>
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It was already dark by then, and I continued riding even though I had bad eyesight at night. There were some winds on the way and it was freezinggg as temp dropped significantly. It was sooo cold. At times like this, how I wished my bike had a heated grip. The road was winding up and down. It felt forever to ride the last 100km. Finally, after 12.30 hours since I left BCN and riding approximately 600km, I arrived safely at Alicante and only managed to settle at my host's hse (after sending the bike to a secured garage) at 11pm. Its a loooongggg dayyy, but I'm glad that everything was ok in the end.</div>
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It had been 7 months I'm on the road by now. In terms of people, I'm truly blessed that I met sooo many lovely people and made many new friends. But in terms of riding, to be frank, I cant recall even one day that everything was super easy. Honestly, everytime I hit the road, there will be challenges. Its just a matter of huge or little challenges. Sometimes, I was tested at the beginning, sometimes in the middle, sometimes at the end of the day and sometimes, through out the journey. Sometimes, when I get good weather, the road was bad. When the road was good, the traffic was bad. When the view was nice, the wind was crazy. When everythg else was ok, my gps was not. Or my maps.me couldnt detect my location, or I couldnt find my accommodation, or I was lost...bla bla bla...To sum it all, everytime, there will definitely be challenges. Nothing was 100% easy peasy.</div>
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I thought that after I'm done with South America, Europe will be a bliss. How wrong I was. It was stormy when I left London. It was raining all the way when I entered France. It was snowing and very cold in Andorra. And in Spain? Its strong wind again. The temp was 8'C as I rolled my wheels to exit Alicante. It was raining and sooo cold. The wind was strong. It was so stressful as the side wind pushed my bike on the wet slippery road. I felt as if the tires had no traction at all as it skid every time being pushed. I had to face this for 4 scary hours!! After that, even though the sun came out, I had a strong head wind which froze me in and out for the remaining journey. My neck and hands were so painful. However, the view was very beautiful as soon as I entered Andalucia province. Beautiful Sierra Nevada greeted me from far away. It reminded me of Patagonia in Argentina. </div>
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I was very cold and exhausted by the time I reached Granada after riding 400kms via A7 – A92. As I'm getting tired and stress riding on the pebble stone very narrow alleys in the old city of Granada, searching for a place to stay which suited my budget, a nice guy appeared out of nowhere to help me. Lucas brought me to the tourist info office and later guided me to a cosy hostel which I got a private room for EUR15. I stayed for 2 nights here and managed to visit the historical city and La Alhambra. </div>
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La Alhambra was indeed a must visit while in Granada. I was lucky that my host in BCN told me to purchase La Alhambra ticket online beforehand as I didnt know that the daily number of visitors to this palace were limited. The ticket cost me EUR15.40. I collected my ticket at a bookstore in the city and walked to the very impressive place. The Alhambra is Granada’s and Europe’s love letter to Moorish culture, a place where fountains trickle, leaves rustle, and ancient spirits seemed to mysteriously linger. Part palace, part fort, part World Heritage site, part lesson in medieval architecture, the Alhambra will definitely blow your mind away.</div>
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My next destination in Spain was Cordoba. I took N432 and the ride along the winding rolling hills was awesome. I do feel some side and headwind along the way. At times, I was being surprised by wind gust which blew from the wind tunnels which was created by the range of hills and valleys. It was cloudy and cold ride again, but I was entertained by beautiful red poppy flowers and olive fields view.</div>
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I stayed 2 nights in Cordoba and visited many historical places such as the old city, Templo Romano, Mezquita, the cathedral, Torre Callahora, Puente Romano, Alcazar, and others.</div>
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I continued towards Seville via A92. Its only 144kms but took me 2.15 hours to reach due to rain, storm, strong wind and chill. In Sevilla, I stayed with an advrider, Mahsa Homayounfar. I was very lucky that Festival de Avril was being held when I was there. Mahsa took me to the festival and I managed to watch the colourful feria. This annual fair was held for a week in the month of April. During this fair, the locals from all walks of life made themselves looked the best. The women dressed up beautifully with flowers in the hair, and the men looked smart and handsome with their coat and tie. They gathered and dance in the street. There were horse carriages too. </div>
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I also managed to visit the old city, the famous cathedral and beautiful Plaza de Espanya.</div>
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<b>PORTUGAL (15 – 17 APRIL 2016)</b></div>
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It was a very misty morning when I made my way to Aracena via N433. At times, my vision was limited to 50m only, but well, I had experienced worse, so its ok. Then it was raining on and off the whole way. Brrrrrrrr. The back road in Portugal was not as good as in Spain. Its narrower and uneven at parts, but theres not much traffic, so its okey. As for the wind? Similar like at Ruta 40 (may be this time a bit less), the wind caused the velcro on my plastic map slot on my tank bag ripped open. No matter how many times I sealed it, the velcro seal will open, and the velcro on my Givi Italy tank bag was of a very good quality. Huhh...to show how fierce the wind here was. It took me almost 7hrs to ride 451km to reach Lisbon. The sun only came out for 20 minutes for the whole journey. It was a colddd wettt ride. Nevertheless, the wild flowers were in full bloom. I felt like riding in Kazakhstan. Wild flowers of yellow, red, pink, purple, white...It was soooo beautiful.</div>
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I stayed 2 nights in Lisbon and managed to visit the European western most point, Cabo Da Roca. This place was 40kms through a narrow winding road from the capital city. Entrance was free. This place reminds me of Lands End due to its rock cliffs, the sea down below and the surroundings. </div>
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I also visited down town Baixa, Belem and relaxed by the sea front watching the waves and sea gulls.</div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-92188988069364209782016-07-31T04:15:00.005-07:002016-07-31T04:15:57.823-07:00PART 8: WESTERN EUROPE (UK)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>UNITED KINGDOM (11 – 30 MARCH 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After a looonnggg 30 hours journey with two transits from BsAs - Atlanta - New York, I finally reached Heathrow International Airport, London at 6.45am. I was sooo tired and sleepy due to the lack of sleep, but am happy to reunite with my ex student Eleanor, after 22 years. She had not changed one bit. She fetched me at the airport and we drove to Terminal 3 to fetch my darling son, Emiershah. It had been 6 months that I didnt see him, the longest ever, so I was into tears. I was a bit sad because my eldest son couldnt meet me in London due to job commitment. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">We went back to Eleanor's house at Rickmansworth and after resting a while, I started to wonder why I didnt get any message from my agent in BsAs regarding my bike. GD had been flown into London earlier than me, so by right it should already reached Ldn by now. After a series of nightmare calling here and there to locate GD's whereabout, but fail to locate the bike, I decided to ask a lady biker friend, Lillian Hobbs for help. Having air freighted her bike many times during her previous rides, she knew how and where to locate GD. We finally get the info that the bike was now at British Airways Cargo warehouse. Lillian advised me to go straight to British Airways Cargo Center to talk to the personnel after I told her of my frustration to get any info regarding bike clearance prosedure from UK Customs staff as they passed my call from one person to another, but I ended up getting nothing. Eleanor drove me to British Airways Cargo Center and I was very lucky to get efficient and kind help from Mr Frankie and Mr Bryan. They went out of their way to help me. Within couple of hours, GD was cleared and I hit UK road in the cold winter night. I was very tired by then because I hadnt sleep for 60 hours!!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next few days were spent on doing major service on GD, as by now it had already completed half way of my total journey. My new set of tires which were sent by Hong Leong Yamaha Motor had also arrived. Thanks HLYM for the help and support, and thanks too to Eleanor for helping to drive me here and there to settle my matters. It would have been difficult for me if she's not around.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had a remarkable 3 weeks in UK filled with lots of activities. First was the Ace Cafe Adventure Day event. I met sooo many people there including two muslimah lady biker (Noorah and Jan), and some from Women International Motorcycle Association (Sheonagh, Pat, Janet and Barbara). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also met my idol lady advrider at the event, Tiffany Coates. This amazing woman had been zig zagging the world on her trusted GS for years. We had been on FB for quite a while and she had been giving me lots of tips and advises. It was so nice to finally met her in person, and an honour when she invited me to go to her place at Lands End, the western most point of UK about 500kms from London, which I accepted.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In Lands End, Tiff brought me to the western most point of UK. The view was soooo beautiful but it was a very windy day. We spent some time admiring the beautiful panoramic view and later, we rode to her parents hse about 50kms away. I met Charlie & Margaret who lived in Msia fr 1969 - 1972. It was so nice when they recalled those days when they're in Msia and asked me if this or that still exists. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Back to Ldn, I was invited to gv a talk to the Perwakilan Ladies of the Msian High Commission at the Ambassador's residence. I was given a very warm welcome by H.E. Dato Ahmad Rasidi and his wife, Datin Rosilawati, together with approximately 50 other Msian students who came as far as Brighton. Some of my followers who came from Windsor were there to meet me. Not just that, Asa Okhvist, the secretary of WIMA WORLD, and representatives from Msian TV3 and RTM, sis Haliza and sis Zaharah Othman were there to interview me too. After the event finished, sis Zaharah as Jan's pillion, filmed me riding around London.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">During my last days in Ldn which I stayed with sis Zaharah, she took me for some sightseeing. We visited Portobello Market, British Museum, National Portrait Gallery and Trafalgar Square. She also filmed me riding around the city. Jan and Noorah accompanied us too. Thank you very much everyone for the nice hospitality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The day came and I finally said goodbye to Ldn. Noorah came to meet me. She accompanied me for few kms, then I rode to Brighton via M23, approx 108km away, to meet another lady rider friend, Sue Barnes. UK road was fantastic but I had to be careful not to ride on the wrong side of the road. It had been 6 months that I'm riding on the right, so I was very awkward. LOL!!! It was a very windy day due to the storm which hit southern UK since the past few days. Sue waited for me at a rest area before Brighton and took me back to her house. She had advised me to take the ferry from Newhaven (near her place) to cross into France as its much easier compared to taking the ferry from Dover. I spent 2 nights at Sue's place and she took me for sightseeing near Brighton Pier. Sue also helped me to purchase my ferry ticket (GBP48), and advised me on the must have and riding rules in France which I'm not aware of, such as reflective stickers on helmet, wearing yellow + reflective vest, 2 breathalizers and a spare bulb. Failure to have all these can result in one getting a ticket if being stopped by the police. I didnt have all that (except the spare bulb), and I was very thankful to Sue for giving hers to me.</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-64456701014357275152016-05-29T16:05:00.002-07:002018-09-04T02:20:50.579-07:00PART 7: SOUTH AMERICA (I CRY FOR U ARGENTINAAAA)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ARGENTINA (5 FEB - 9TH MARCH 2016)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My last day in Santiago, Chile was a hard one. It wasn't hard due to riding, but to leave the kind family of Dato Rameez and his wife. They had treated me like their very own family. I would never ever forget their kindness to me. Anyhow, the journey must go on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I left Malaysia House with tears flowing down my cheek, all the way until I reached Paso De Los Libertadores, a mountain pass with 30 very tight switchbacks. I need to focus while ascending the hairpin bends, so I must stop the tears. It was a bit scary to see the ravine down below from the corner of my eyes, but once in a while, I did enjoyed the beauty of Mount Aconcagua which can be seen from the pass. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had to pay tolls 4 times though from Santiago to the border which was located at the peak of the pass. My ride was interrupted twice due to landslides. The border was a toll-plaza-kinda building where both countries had their booths side by side. It took me about 1hr to settle everything as there was a long line today. The funny thing was I was not given a permisso from the Argentinian side, even after I had asked for it. I was worried if I had missed something, until I met another overlander and he told me he didnt get any permisso copy too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then I rode via route 7. Argentina was sooooo beautiful. Blue lakes, beautiful gorges, but the highway was not as nice as in Chile. Its quite windy at certain stretches too. After riding 385kms in 8.30hrs from Santiago, I reached Mendoza. I found a hostal and later went to the cambio to change some money. There were about 70 people lining up at the money changer, from inside to the outside. I had to cue for 1 hour to get some money changed...sigh... </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I exit Mendoza via Ruta 40 which was the longest route in Argentina and one of the longest in the world. It stretched from the Bolivian border in the north to Rio Gallegos in the south, running parallel to the Andes mountains. The southern part of the route, a largely unpaved road through sparsely populated territory, had became a well-known adventure ride journey. My ride on the epic Ruta 40 started from Mendoza all the way down to El Calafate. It was indeed a tough journey. Especially when doing it all alone on a small bike. I had to face great challenges such as very cold weather, unbelievable strong wind, rain, storm, and offroad (thick and loose gravels which rattled my teeth and bones, and soft sands too). I passed towns such as Malargue, Chos Malal, San Martin de Los Andes, San Carlos de Bariloche, Esquel, Perito Moreno, Gobernador Gregores, and El Calafate. The total distance for my route in Ruta 40 were 3400kms which took about 10 days. Everyday, I had to start early in the morning as the wind will start to blow fiercely after 9.30am and get even more stronger by midday. I was told that the reason behind this was the wind came from the Pacific Ocean and when it reached the Andes mountains, it crashed. When the road surface heated up by the sunlight, the pressure increased and this resulted in crazy wind around this area. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Carrying extra gas was essential here as distance between towns were huge and there were always cases of gas stations ran out of gas. There were many occasions that I had to cue and wait for at least 30mins whenever I need to refuel. Even though the ride on Ruta 40 was hard, the view was so breathtaking. Green pampas, beautiful gorges, green Rio Grande river, canyon, blue Lago Nueva on the way to Chos Malal. Some pics here to enjoy...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The famous 'Seven Lakes' via Villa La Angostura and all the way to San Carlos de Bariloche. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pine trees and some desert like views to Esquel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">While at El Calafate, I managed to visit Perito Moreno Glaciers. This glacier was number 4 for me after Franz Josef (NZ), Khumbu Glacier (Mt Everest) and Bear Glacier (Canada-Alaska). The entrance fee was AP260, and the tour AP600. I took a tour as I'm having fever at that time and I didnt feel like riding 160kms (return) to this place. A decision which I'm so glad to take when seeing the wind condition that even the bus I rode on was shaking!!! This glacier was indeed the most beautiful and the biggest glacier that I had seen. I was sooo stunned at its beauty that I cant figure out the most suitable word to describe it. The glacier changed colours according to the amount of sunlight it received. When I was there, it was raining and shining on and off. Every now and then I heard loud 'thunder' sounds of the glacier cracking and fell into the lake. It was really awesome.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I exited El Calafate and made my way to Rio Gallegos and after that I head south via Ruta 3. My first real big problem started here when I was denied exit by the Argentinian officers due to failure to show them my bike permisso copy, which I didnt get any when crossing into Argentina to Mendoza the other day. The officer accused me for taking GD into the country illegally and he threatened to confiscate my bike. I tried to explain my situation and fortunately he referred me to his chief, but I need to go to another customs building about 1km away. I met the lady and again had to explain to her. She told me to wait while she checked her computer. Later she told me that theres no information about my bike in the custom's system. She said that this was against the law and she will take my bike away. I was panicking but I controlled my charm and cool. I knew very well how in this situation, I'm at her MERCY and she could make matters worse for me. I told her there must be some mistakes, as I knew the procedures to bring my bike into a country, and I had registered at the customs. I'm not new to this, and this border is the 17th for GDR. After listening to my rationals, she couldnt decide and told me to wait while she brought the matter to the HQ. She made some calls and emails. I had no choice but to wait. I waited from mins to hours and started to get very restless. Whenever I asked her, she told me to wait. I couldnt bothered her too much or else she will be pissed off. But I'm in a hurry and had wasted too much time here. So my last solution was to beg her and of course I had to act and shed some tears to get her sympathy. Thank god it worked. Finally, after wasting 3.30hrs, she let me passed without a fine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I hurriedly left and registered my bike on the Chilean side which took only 20mins. Then, I sped to the ferry terminal and crossed to Tierra del Fuego. Not long after that, I had to ride on offroad for 110kms. It was a bone rattling ride, but this time, I cant pampered GD anymore as the sun was going down. I had to go as fast as my offroad riding skill allowed me to. After that, I did the 2nd border crossing. The Chilean side first, then 12kms on no-mans-land, then the Argentina side. Luckily I got tail wind after that and I arrived Rio Grande after riding approx 400kms. I had to spend some time to find a room which suited my budget and only get to check in at 9.30pm. I was dead tired.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">On 18th February, I reached Ushuaia, Fin Del Mundo...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">158 days...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Approx 32000kms...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2 continents...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">15 countries...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Countless sleepless nights due to worries...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Countless scary moments...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Countless good ppl I met on the road...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Countless wonderful memories...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All the crazy & wild wind along the way...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All the hunger, thirst, exhaustion, pain, heat, cold, frozen fingers & lips...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Not forgetting the tortured butt...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Without any top ppl as patron...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Without big fund to support my ride...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am finally here...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The end of the road...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">At the end of the world...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Only God knows what I had been thru...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1 world</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1 small bike</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1 solo rider</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1 woman</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1 huge dream</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">*IMPOSSIBLE IS NOTHING* </span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/qy4ZPoVHkmY/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qy4ZPoVHkmY?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Excuse my very emotional moment in the video :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After the first big objective that was to reach the end of the world had been accomplished, my next target was to ride to Buenos Aires, some 3100kms away via Ruta 3 to prepare my bike for shipping to London. I rode the same 230kms way back to Rio Grande. The road was wet due to melting frost. The wind was strong...among the strongest I felt so far. I had to fight the head and side wind for the last 100kms. To make matters worse, the wind forecast said that the wind gusts is going to reach 101kmh for the next days. It was true. The wind was insane. The sound of the howling wind was like a ghost trying to swallow everything which it passed through. Its too dangerous for me to ride. If theres no more offroad to ride, I might still try to brave the wind. Unfortunately theres 110km of offroad awaiting. I was stranded in Rio Grande for 3 nights. However, I accepted my fate. Things happened for a reason... </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Finally, the wind lessened a bit and I hurriedly left the town. It was a brrrrrr ride, braving the chill since theres no sunshine but a thick cloud hovering above my head. It was so cold and all my fingers froze. But I still need to continue or else the wind will get stronger. The tip of my fingers were soo froze that it were sooo painful. Honestly I cried. That being said, most people thought its easy to ride a small bike which didnt have a heated grip for this kind of ride? I rode on the same 110kms gravels. Its tougher this time due to the wind and bcos there were fresh soil being put on the road under construction. I made it to Rio Gallegos after riding 400kms in 10 hours, with 2 border crossings. I was so tired.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next days werent easy for me either. As at Ruta 40, the wind at the southern part of Ruta 3 was very strong too. I had pains on my upper limbs due to fighting the wind for many hours everyday for many many days. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It rained very heavily when I reached Puerto San Julian. The road to my host's house got very muddy and slippery. It was really hard for me to control GD when the mud already coated the tires and as I'm nearing my host's house, I fell in the mud puddle. My host came running but it was difficult for us, two ladies to put the bike to stand. My host then asked her neighbour to help and we had to push GD to her house which was nearby. The wind was very strong and the rain continued pouring for the whole night. It was hard for me to sleep as I was very tensed. I had only a very little sleep and when I woke up in the morning, the rain had stopped but GD was lying on the ground. The wind might had pushed it down and the surrounding had turned into paddy fields. My heart sank. I cant believe I had to face this after being stranded in Rio Grande due to wind the other day. I prayed very hard for the sun to come out and for the earth to suck the water. The sun only came out at 12pm and miraculously the water drained very quickly. However, what remained after that was a very muddy based ground for about 400m. It was really tough to get out from the muddy part, but I was lucky not to drop the bike again. It took me half n hour to get out, and another half hour to clean the mud on GD. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then, I raced towards Comodoro Rivadavia. It was a very cold ride as it was raining on and off and the wind was still strong. I thought there wont be any more challenge after the mud, but I was wrong. I had to ride on offroad, ascend a pretty steep dirt hill and descended a slope with thick gravels for about 5kms to reach my host's house. Hadoiiiii :(</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next days were to reach Buenos Aires as soon as I can. I made a stop at Puerto Madryn, Viedma, Bahia Blanca and Azul via Ruta 3. As I went further up north, the wind lessened significantly and its not as chilly as the previous days. In Azul, I stayed at a cool place, La Posta, which was dedicated for bikers. Finally, on 2nd March 2016, I arrived Buenos Aires and rode straight to the Malaysian Embassy. The Ambassador, Dato Ashri Muda and all the staff gave me a very warm welcome. The medias were there too. Dato even invited me to stay at Malaysia House until the day I departed to London. I was soo touched by the nice hospitality. I met Datin Rohayahti at the residence and she treated me like her very own sister. I stayed 8 days at their place and they brought me sightseeing in Buenos Aires. I also managed to sort out my bike to be flown to London, using the service of Dakar Motos. I had to pay USD1850 for the fees. All the while, Dato helped me a lot by letting his staff to asist me. Till the final day, Dato and Datin send me to the airport. It was really hard to say goodbye to these nice people. May Allah pay back all their kindness. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">END OF MY RIDE IN THE AMERICAS.....</span></div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-121025732561445227.post-66387722243170047702016-05-29T14:48:00.000-07:002016-05-29T14:48:09.523-07:00PART 6: SOUTH AMERICA (BOLIVIA, CHILE)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="font-size: x-large; text-align: justify;">BOLIVIA (18 JAN – 23 JAN 2016)</b><br />
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After saying goodbye to the nice lady at the hostal in Puno who gave me a very nice room with discounted price and even invited me for breakfast, I started riding south to the border. Hardly 15mins, it started to rain again. It was cold and Lake Titicaca was not as blue. Arriving Desaguadero, there was a looong line of people at the Immigration. The line was about 40m outside the office. It took me 1 hour to line up and only 1min to get the exit stamp. Cancelling my permisso took just 5 mins. Then I crossed the bridge and entered Bolivia. To my surprise, the line at the Immigration here was longer, about 70m!!! It took me 2 hours to line up and just 1 min to get the entry stamp. Its not difficult to get my permisso at the aduana to bring GD into Bolivia. Perhaps I'm already used to how the system worked here in the Latin American countries. Overall, it took me 3.40 hours to cross both borders, the longest time for all 13 countries so far.</div>
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Once done, I had to ride on gravels for 1km with 3 dogs chasing me before I hit the paved road. The weather did improved, so I managed to enjoy beautiful blue Lake Titicaca. The road to La Paz was so-so, with some badly sunken road and pot holes in places. There were lots of stray dogs and I wonder why, Bolivian dogs seemed not to like me very much. They always chased me!!!</div>
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Arriving here, the traffic were quite crazy but not as bad as in Lima. Its not very easy to find accommodation with secure parking here, unless at the more expensive hotels. In the first place, if you are searching for hostal or hospedaje (spanish word for 'lodge'), u will end up frustrated bcos in Bolivia, the term used was 'alojamiento'. I did found a good place anyway, Hostal Internacional, which charged unbelievable B50 (RM25) for a really comfy room. </div>
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The road in El Alto, La Paz was sooo bad with pot holes, puddles, construction and piles of construction sands or gravels in the middle of the road, making it difficult for me to exit to the highway. Pedestrians here were crazy too. They crossed the road as they liked without looking left and right. I saw a dead man lying on the road with pools of blood. Euwwww...I tried not to look more than I should. I kept reminding myself to go slow and be extra careful. I put up at Oruro for 1 night and continued towards Uyuni. The weather was fine. There were good and bad roads. The houses here were made from mud bricks, meaning the SES was lower. The view was sooo different here. As a matter of fact, the landscape between all SA countries - Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia differed even though they were neighbours. I saw lots of llamas and amazing sand twisters spiralling into the sky...which also meant that I had to fight strong side wind for 2 hours today. After riding for 600kms from El Alto, La Paz, I reached Uyuni, the heart of salar – the famous salt flats.</div>
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I took a one day tour to the Salar. It was amazing. I had no word to describe the beauty, so I will let the pics do the talking.</div>
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<b>CHILE (23 JAN – 5 FEB 2016)</b></div>
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Previously, I was doubting whether or not I can afford to do the famous route 701 from Uyuni to the Bolivian – Chilean border as it was a looonggg offroad but offered spectacular views along the way. However, after thinking deeply, I decided that I will give it a try. I left Uyuni at 7.40am. The view was indeed amazing and the offroad was not as crazy as I thought it would be. Well, the harder part was yet to come. It took me 4 hours to reach Avaroa, the border town.The border was in the middle of nowhere. It was 12pm then and the officers were gone. I had to wait to get my exit stamp and cancelled my permisso. Then, I rode approx 3kms in no mans land into Ollague, Chile. I stamped my passport and get my permisso. No fees or mandatory insurance required to bring in my bike into this country. However, there was an inspection done on GD as animals @ plant products were not permitted to be taken in. But the nice officer just took 2 secs check on my top box. Overall, it took me about 2 hours to clear both borders.</div>
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I then continued my ride to Calama via route 21, passing amazing salt lake and beautiful volcanic mountains. It was unbelievable that all SA countries that I had been to were sooo contrast in views and landscapes. All were unique and beautiful. However, the road was not. It was worse than route 701 in Bolivia. There were many stretches of soft sands and loose gravels which I need to ascend and descend. The wind was stronger here too. I almost fell not less than 10 times, but luckily I managed to handle GD even though I was already off balance. I'm sure my mom back home can hear me screaming for her. It was a big relief when I finally met paved road again. Ohhh...I loved paved road, and who ever made them. In total, I rode 450kms today on ripio - dirt, gravels and soft sands. Only less than a quarter of the distance I rode today were paved. The most km of offroad in a day that I had ever done!!!</div>
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My next destination in Chile was San Pedro de Atacama, which was only 110km via route 23 from Calama. The road was good, but it was a bit windy bcos I was crossing a vast desert. Tourist from all over the world came to San Pedro de Atacama not for the sake of the town. Theres nothing in the rustic town except dust. However the surroundings were soooo spectacular. There were lots to see, the desert, geysers, lagunas, salt flats etc. Due to my tight budget, I could only managed to visit Valle de la Luna, or Moon Valley. Its not far from the town. The view was incredible. All this while, when talking about desert, what we had in mind will be sands, dunes and perhaps one or two barren mountain. However here, you can see a mountain range, Cordilerra de la Sal, which was made from salt, and the amazing rock formation was formed by wind erosion. Another god's creation which left me speechless... </div>
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Northern Chile was dominated by the Atacama Desert, so it was very dry and windy. My skin and lips were peeling by now due to the dryness. Even my lip balm didnt help. Anyway, after 2 days, I left San Pedro de Atacama, heading back to Calama and then south via route 25. I started early as to avoid strong wind in the desert which normally will blow hard at 12pm onwards. I made a good time to Antofagasta within 4 hours (had to brave the morning chill though). Upon reaching Antofagasta, I started to look for a cheap place to stay. From my research, I knew theres nothing cheap in this city, but I just tried. Normally there're cheaper places which were not listed in the internet. Unfortunately, after wasting 2 hours going around the city, and the cheapest room I could find was USD35, which was waayy too much for my wallet, I decided to continue riding to the next town, in hope that my luck will change. However, it was 2pm by then and the wind was blowing like SUPER CRAZY!!! I never face such strong wind before, not even in Peru. From a distance, I saw HUGEEE cloud of sands being blown away. It was really scary and my poor GD was zig-zagging helplessly. Theres one time that the wind gust shoved me to the opposite direction in a mere 2 seconds and theres a lorry approaching from the opposite direction!!! Luckily I managed to get back on my lane. I was sooo stressed out and its very unsafe to continue riding in this condition. However, where must I go? Where must I go? WHERE??? The next town was few hundred kms away and all around me was nothingness but desert and sands. I was praying real hard in my heart while riding slowly and gripping the handle firmly. Thank god I saw a Shell station next to the highway. I pulled over and begged the owner to let me camp behind the station. He was reluctant in the beginning, but agreed when he saw tears started to pool in my eyes...</div>
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The next day was not easy for me either. Ever since I entered Chile 6 days ago, almost everyday I will get surprises. The offroad, the crazy wind, the high price on everything...and now, another surprise. A country which was said amongst the most developed and expensive in SA, but the gas stations were very far apart. Its hundreds of kms before you found one!!! I made a big mistake which I learnt well and will never repeat. I didn't refuel at the gas station which I camped last night because they no longer have the cheaper gas. Since I still had half tank of gas, I asked the attendant, wheres the next station? He was talking so fast and I thought he said "dos" "tres". So using fingers, I pointed two and three and he nodded. I thought its 23kms away, so I proceeded. After 50kms, theres no gas station in sight. I checked my GPS, it said theres one 150kms away. I started to get worried as GD didn't have much gas left. I asked the locals but everyone was giving me different answers. And what scared me most was, yesterday, the gas station listed in my GPS was of non existence. How if the one which my GPS said was 150km away didn't exist too? Only god knows how I felt. I had to ride very slowly, about 50 - 60kmh only. And all the while praying hard that GD could make it.</div>
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Finally, after almost 3 hours of really slow ride of 160kms, there it is...the gas station. And GD almost reached blinking level, but not yet blinking. Approx 450km was done since its last refuel. A new record set. Phewwwww...</div>
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Anyway, even though the experience of almost running out of gas was scary, I achieved a remarkable victory today when I reached Mano Del Desierto, or 'Hand of the Desert'. This sculpture was in my wish list ever since I got into adv riding, and it was only today that I rolled my wheels here. I also managed to locate the landmark for Tropic of Capricorn.</div>
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The next few days, I continued riding further south via route 5, passing towns such as Chanaral, La Serena and Valparaiso. Chile's landscape was very unique. There were times that I'm surrounded with reddish mountain, at other times, brownish or yellowish. I felt like in a different planet. The wind was still strong at certain stretches, but the beautiful blue Pacific Ocean view down the cliff compensate the unpleasantness of having to fight the wind. As I rode further south in Chile, I could see more colours and more cactus & bushes in the pampas, compared to sands, dunes and barren mountains in northern Chile. </div>
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The houses in the bigger towns in Chile were similar to in Msia. Road was good, but motorbikes had to pay tolls :( Along my way to Valparaiso, I could see locals waving and flagging white flags to attract people to buy cheese which they sold by the road side. View got greener later on. I stayed 2 nights in Valparaiso and explored the historical city which was also a sister city to Malacca.</div>
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My last destination in Chile was Santiago. I rode straight to Malaysian Embassy and was given a very warm welcome by Dato Dr Rameez, the ambassador, and all the staff. Lots of delicious food being served such as nasi lemak with chicken rendang, rojak and Malay delicacies. Dato Rameez even invited me to stay at Malaysia House. I felt so honoured and happy. I spent 3 nights and managed to send my bike for maintenance service at a Yamaha HQ here and attended a tea meet with the Perwakilan Ladies. I wished to thank Dato Rameez, lovely Datin Noor Zulaikha , Malaysian Embassy in Santiago and Yamamotor Santiago for the hospitality.</div>
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ANITA YUSOFhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08858660921926181122noreply@blogger.com0