I stayed 4 nights at
Rashmi’s house in Seattle, hoping that the pain I’m suffering
will lessened. I also went to see a doctor, and was charged USD150
for consultation and some pain killers, which didn’t gv any effect
on my pain. Everything was pricey here and I’m worried if this pain
will get worse. I prayed hard, asking God to hv pity on
me. Yes, He pitied me, and after resting at Rashmi’s house for 4
days, I felt a lil better. Before leaving Seattle, Rashmi brought me
out in her car for some sightseeing in her beautiful city, Seattle.
Thank you Rashmi for yr hospitality.
The Space Needle |
The very first Starbucks |
Me and Rashmi at Lake Washington |
SEATTLE – PORTLAND –
REEDSPORT – EUREKA
On 1st
October, I said goodbye to Rashmi and head south to Portland via
I-5-S freeway. The freeway was filled with huge, long trucks up to 26 tires and they were crazily
racing the road. It was quite scary, especially when they passed me,
which I’m sure their speed was 75mph the least, and the turbulence
they caused swayed my small bike.
I had to stop at rest area at every
100kms to ease the pain on my back. My Givi helmet, even though its not heavy,
gv pressure to my paining neck, so I had to take the helmet off to
relief my tensed nerve. I continued riding and arrived Portland city
after riding for 4.30hrs, covering a distance of 296km. I checked
into Portland International Youth Hostel, which charged USD41 for a 8
beds dorm, and another USD2 for parking. This rate was ridiculously
expensive, but since this is the one and only hostel in Portland,
what choice do people like me have? I met another overlanders, from
Cape Town and Atlanta.
In the evening, I joined
the free tour given by the hostel for a sightseeing around Portland.
We were taken to some exhibitions at art galleries. It was a nice
evening.
The next day, I opt for a
coastal ride along Oregon Coast. So after checking out, I took I-5-S
again, before turning right to 99W – 18, riding along the
vineyards, and finally, the must do highway for bikers, Highway 101.
It was a cloudy and cold ride today, even though it didn’t rain. I
didn’t manage to see the blue Pacific Ocean due to this. The road
was good, but when riding in and out of the national or state parks
one after another along the coast, the speed limit was reduced to
only 25mph as the road was narrow and winding. This slowed me down as
I dared not go more than the speed limit.
It took me 6.30hrs to
ride 333km to Reedsport. I found a camp ground and pitched my tent
for the night. It was raining in the middle of the night and I’m
freezing. My pain worsened when I had to bear the cold like this.
I left the camp ground at
early morning and continued heading south via Pacific Coast Scenic
Byway . It was a lovely day today and the sun shone its light on
earth, making the Pacific Coast looks so very blue. I had to stop my
bike many times for pics. It was sooooo beautiful.
I entered California, and
from God knows where, suddenly the wind was very strong. It pushed my
bike to the right or to the left of the road. I was very scared
because I am no longer in control of the bike when this happened. Due
to this I had to slow down. Some drivers were mad at me for going
slow. It was a double lined road and vehicles were not allowed to
pass. I had to stop by the road side and let them passed me first,
before continue riding. The strong wind also caused the pain on my
neck worsened terribly. I had to tell myself time and again to keep
riding….eventually I will be there. It was a relief when after
riding 400kms in 8hrs (lots of stopping for pics), I finally took a
left turning to Eureka, where my host were waiting for me. It was not
difficulty to find the house. I was given a very warm welcome by the
French family – Marceau, Nicole and their daughter, Alaya. Marceau
was a biker, and I get to know him from the HUBB page in Facebook.
They had a very nice house, a bit hidden in the woods and according
to them, wild animals including black bears do pay them a visit
sometimes.
The sweet and kind French family |
The next day, Nicole
brought me to a few beaches about 30 mins drive from her house as I
told her that I really wanna touch the Pacific Ocean. It was a great
feeling when I finally managed to touch the waters. After that,
Nicole brought me to a supermarket. Knowing that I’m a Muslim and
could only eat halal food, she bought fish and scallops. We went back
to her house and I told them about my previous rides while they take a look on my blog. Marceau gv me some tips on my upcoming ride on the
best route to take.
Yoohoooo....I hv touched the Pacific Ocean |
Later, I helped Marceau
in the kitchen to prepare for dinner. Marceau made steamed salmon and
a French cuisine using tomatoes and I cooked turmeric scallop. Dinner
was fabulous and I’m glad that the couple liked the scallop which I
cooked.
EUREKA – MENDOCINO –
LAKE TAHOE – BISHOP
After two days, I
continued riding south and this time my destination was Mendocino,
which were 300kms away from Eureka. I took the route which Marceau
suggested, ‘Avenue of The Giants’. Yes, the redwood trees were
like giants covering the area making it looked dark and a bit scary.
I stopped many times here too, admiring the big trees. The redwood
trees were said as the biggest in the world, but I think I had seen
bigger trees in tropical forest in the National Park back in my
country.
I spotted a sign, saying
“Ride In A Tree”, so I checked out the place. It was actually an
opportunity to ride in a tree, as the tree was so big, it enabled a
road to be built inside it.
After that, it was a
winding ride all the way to Leggett and after that along the coast to
Mendocino. It was getting dark and I was worried if I couldn’t
reach my host place, which was located at Little River, 3km south of
Mendocino before the sun went out. It was another 8kms to
reach the house which was in the middle of the redwood forest. Dave,
my host was down with bad flu, so he suggested that I sleep in a
trailer behind his house. It was kinda fun for me to experience two
nights in the trailer, even though it did felt eerie as the place was
too quiet at night.
Before I left, Dave, who
was also a biker, suggested me to forgo the freeway, but took Highway
12 instead to my next destination. He was very right. Even though this route was longer,
winding, narrow at certain parts and I had to stop many times due to
road construction, the scenic view made this choice of route
unregretful. I felt as if I’m in another world. The view of the
surrounding mountains was very beautiful. I had to stop many times
for pics.
As I’m nearing a town
named Williams, I could see lots of peach garden alongside of the
road. There were stalls selling peach too but I didn’t stop as I
was in a hurry. I reached Lake Tahoe around sunset, but the camp
ground listed in my GPS was of non-existence. I had to ride another
50kms to south of Lake Tahoe for another camp ground. I was actually
very tired already, but I cant afford to opt for a cheap motel here,
as its not cheap for my money. While riding to the southern part of
Lake Tahoe, I saw a sign saying ‘Emerald Bay’. It was late but I
must check out this place. It was beautiful, but could be even more
beautiful if there was sunshine.
I hurried back to my bike
after taking some pics at Emerald Bay. It was almost dark by then and
I didn’t even know where to stay for the night. I had to waste
another 15mins waiting at a construction site as only 1 road opened
for traffic. Finally, after riding 527kms, I reached the camp ground
and had to pitch my tent in the first pit which I found. God knows
how exhausted I was.
I woke up late this
morning as I didn’t get a good sleep last night. I wonder why…but
every time I camped, it will definitely rain in the middle of the
night. I found a note on my bike from the rangers, asking me to
register at the office. After packing up my stuff, I went to the
office, and was charged USD35 for camping at a RV site. I told the
ranger that it was very dark, the camp ground was not lit, and I was
very exhausted when I reached the camp ground last night. I didn’t
even use the full hook-up service (water and electric city) at the
site. The ranger refused to listen to me and demanded that I paid the
full amount. I was very pissed off but I had no choice. This must had
been the most expensive camp site in my whole life. Imagine, had to
pay USD35 (RM157) only for pitching my tent at the site.
Nevertheless, the ride
today was a very spectacular one along Highway 395. I’m supposed to
visit Yosemite National Park today, unfortunately the road to the
park at Tioga Pass was closed due to snow.
It get even more
beautiful when I took Highway 120 (on the opposite side) to reach
Bishop. I stopped every 10 minutes for pics. It was sooooo lovely. At
times, I felt as if I’m in Tajikistan. I saw red grass fields and
snow capped mountain. I also saw orange, brown and yellow coloured
bushes. There were also awesome rock formations along the way. I was
so glad that I took this route, which was not only beautiful, but
very deserted, that I could count how many times I met other
vehicles.
BISHOP – DEATH
VALLEY NATIONAL PARK
I said goodbye to my
lovely host, Matthew and Bethany for hosting me at their nice home at
Bishop. The view of White Mountain and Sierra Nevada dominated my
view as I exit the town. Matthew had suggested that I took Highway
395 to Big Pine, and later Highway 168 as the view was more
beautiful. It seemed that I will never follow my earlier planned
route (as suggested by Google Map), whenever I stayed with the local,
as they knew which route is the most scenic. Matthew had warned me
that the temperature will rise along my way to Death Valley (hence
the name, as nothing can grow there), so I opted for Givi summer
gloves and I kept my inner Hevik jacket inside my box. Yes, it sure
get warmer and warmer, and there was no rest area at all along the
way!!! However, the view was really amazing as I made my way along
the winding road with lots of dips that I felt as if I’m riding a
roller coaster. At other times, the road was looong and straight for
many many kilometres.
Ikut suka mak bapak aku la kan nak buat apa pun :) |
The moment I entered
Death Valley National Park via Scottys Junction, again, I felt as if
I am in a different world. The mountain look so barren and weird. Am
I in Mars, I wondered? As I’m getting dehydrated and exhausted, I didnt take many pics. I
rode fast to the camp ground. Unbelievably, there were too many
people at the camp ground, and there was no more shaded site for non
RVs. A very nice lady, Cheryl, offered me to pitch my tent next to
hers and she refused any money from me. She was very kind. I
hurriedly pitched my tent, and only took a rest once everything was
done. I felt like fainting due to the 40’C heat and the exhaustion
after only manage to take a rest 6 hours since I left Bishop this morning, and
covering a distance of 334km.
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL
PARK – ZION NATIONAL PARK
I started early this
morning to avoid the heat. The road, as yesterday, was long and
straight. It was amazing when I checked my odometer that the straight
road went for 20kms, before making a slight bend and then another
looonggg straight road again. I met another over lander, Andrew, who
was traversing US from west to east with his retro Triumph bike.
Since we both heading to the same destination, we rode together for a
while. I lost him when I bypassed Las Vegas at I-15.
Like any other
inter-state freeways in US, the cars and trucks were moving way too
fast, much more than what the speed limit allowed. I was glad when I
had left Las Vegas behind me and the traffic started to lessen. The
view when the highway cut into the high mountain was very spectacular
but there was no opportunity for pics as there was no suitable place
for me to stop my bike.
Finally, after riding for
500kms, I reached Zion National Park, By this time, I had re joined
with Andrew. There were so many people at this small town and the
camp grounds were fully booked. We went to a private camp ground, and
was told that it was full too. Gosh, where am I going to sleep
tonight? I told Andrew to try asking from the people if they would
let us pitch our tents on their sites, and we could share the fees.
On the first attempt, Andrew failed to get their sympathy. I tried my
luck, and thankfully, a nice young couple from Germany let us pitched
our tents beside their RV.
I hurriedly go for a
sightseeing tour at Zion National Park. To enter this park, I must
take a sightseeing bus which will bring tourist along the spectacular
sights inside the park. The rock formations were indeed a spectacular
sight. I was very glad that I listened to my friend, Andrea, who had
advised me to visit this place.
ZION NATIONAL PARK –
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK
After saying good bye to
Andrew and the Germany couple, I made my way to Grand Canyon National
Park via Highway 9 – 89A – 64. I had to enter few tunnels which
was cut into the mountains which offered really awesome view.
There were two ways to
get to the South Rim of Grand Canyon. I wanted to take route 89, but
my GPS kept directing me to route 89A, which cuts along Kaibab
National Forest. The road was quite narrow and winding. I met some
motorcyclists along the way. The view was nice and I saw lots of
deers. However, by taking this route, I missed Page (which was along
route 89). By the time I entered Highway 64, Page was about 40kms
behind, and I don’t want to return. I do regret this because I
really want to visit Antelope Canyon and the tour starts at Page.
Well, perhaps a good reason to return some other time, huh?
After riding for 434kms,
I arrived Grand Canyon National Park. Again, there were lots of
people here. I was told that it was a long weekend for the locals as
Colombus Day fall on Monday. No wonder la.
I checked in at a camp
ground, and was disappointed to see the camp site. It was not well
kept and the ground was uneven. I pitched my tent and just rest after
a long tiring ride. It was very cold in the night when temperature
fall to 2’C. I couldn’t sleep at all, and had to seek shelter at
the toilet which was heated. I slept on the bench inside the toilet.
The next day, I took the
opportunity to explore the national park. Indeed, even though there
were lots of canyons in US, Grand Canyon was the grandest among them
all. Let the pics do the talking lah...
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL
PARK – LAS VEGAS
In the morning, I said
good bye to Martha, my ‘neighbour’ at the camp site who lend me
her down sleeping bag last night. To my surprise, Martha gave me the
sleeping bag, and wished that I will have warmer camping nights
through out my journey. I was so touched with her kindness.
I made my way via Highway
64, and later I-S-40. Unlike the other inter-state freeways, I-S-40
was not as chaotic. I felt at ease riding on this highway. Then, I
turned right to Highway 93, heading to Las Vegas. I arrived my hosts
house after riding 500kms from Grand Canyon National Park. My host,
sis Joyah Vegas, was a Malaysian. She was a well known Malaysian here
and this kind hearted lady always host Malaysian people who came to
Vegas. She had a nice big house with swimming pool. That night, she
cooked curry chicken for dinner, and I couldn’t help tears because
it was soooo delicious, and especially that I had not taste chicken
curry for 1 month since I left Malaysia.
Sis Joyah and her beautiful daughter |
I stayed 3 nights at her
house and while I’m there, another 2 Malaysian guys came to stay
here too. We took the opportunity to visit Vegas most famous casinos
at “The Strip”.
LAS VEGAS – TEMECULA
– OCEANSIDE – SAN DIEGO
It was hard to say
goodbye to my nice host, sis Joyah Vegas who had look after me well
and cooked delicious food everyday during my stay at her place. But
its time to continue my journey. My destination today is Temecula,
600kms away, which will be the longest in distance since I started my
ride. It was getting warmer and warmer during daytime, so my ride was
comfortable with Givi outfit. I didn’t hv to use the winter or rain
gloves anymore.
I rode on Highway 95, and
later turned to Highway 62. I had been depending too much on my GPS
that I was careless not to check on my paper map. I was not aware
that my route today will be crossing Mojave Desert. The result was my
bike nearly went out of fuel and the only gas station was located at
Desert Centre. I had to slow down to save on fuel consumption, and
was shocked to see the fuel price at Desert Center rocketed to double than
normal price.
A unique sign post in the middle of the desert |
The road along the desert
was in good condition, only a bit narrow. Sometimes, its winding and
sometimes it was long and straight with lots of dips. The cross wind
was strong here as there was no hill or building to slow the wind
down. When the wind came from my right, I was hoping that the
upcoming road will turned to the left (and vice versa), so that
instead of getting a cross wind, I will get a tail wind. The wind
worsened when I entered I-S-10 freeway. I had to hold my bike’s
handle firmly to avoid getting being swept away. It was a relief when
I exit I-S-10 to Highway 371 and later 74 which offered scenic
mountain views.
I arrived my host's house,
feeling exhausted after the long ride. My host, Deborah Chang was a
Malaysian. She lived in Temecula with her kids and her fiancée, Mark
Baker, an American. They were very nice to me. That night, again I
felt like crying when Deborah served halal lamb satay with kuah
kacang for dinner. This must had been the most delicious lamb satay
that I had tasted.
I stayed 3 nights at
Deborah’s place. During my stay, she took me for the long awaited
and needed massage for my pain. She also stocked me up with food and
all the things that I need for my ride, including a chain spray, skin
creams and she also bought for me engine oil for my bike’s second
service. She refused any money from me. Her son, Patrick, helped me
with the oil change and checked on my bike.
While my stay at
Deborah’s house, we received a visit from Malaysian friends living
in San Francisco - Joe, Evonne and their son Axel. It was a lovely
Malaysian gathering and we talked about lots of things from economy
to politics and other things. I received an angpow from them too.
Thank you very much
My long time rock n roll internet friend, Spence also paid me a visit. I knew him thru Scorpions Fans Club and we chatted regularly way back in 2003. Its unbelievable that I managed to meet him here.
Before I left Temecula,
again I received the hard-to-forget hospitality from Deborah and
Mark. They escorted me to a gas station nearby and paid for my gas. I
was speechless. Not only they lend me their roof, they feed me with
good food everyday, care for my necessities, and now this. Thank you
very much Deb & Mark. I will never forget your kindness till the
day I die. The occasion left me with tears rolling all the way to
Oceanside. I was sooo touched by their care and love.
At Oceanside, I received
hospitality from another Malaysian, Faizal Ali. He lived in a nice
big house in a private area. I felt so proud to see Malaysians doing
so well in the US. Faizal ran his own Vololight business and had been
living in US since he’s a teenager. The ointment for my neck pain from Ayuni and my replacement visor which Givi
send to his address had arrived. He helped me to fix the new
visor.
The next day, Faizal and
me rode to the beach front at Oceanside and later to San Diego via
I-5-S freeway, which was 80kms away. I found Andrea’s house (a lady
biker friend) without difficulty. It was very nice to finally meet
her in person. Andrea had been helping me with route planning and
what to see in the US, Central and South America. She was very
generous in giving tips and advises. That night we had dinner with
some other friends at a Moroccan Restaurant.