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Tuesday 4 November 2014

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING, DAY 1 - 3

I guess there are not many people out there who would combine riding a motorcycle and trekking @ mountain climbing in one journey, but well...I'm one of the very few who did :)


DAY 1: 4th June 2014
Lukla (2795m) to Phakding (2610m)

6.4km (5hr Trek)
Sunrise Lodge


I woke up early morning, at 4am. After a quick shower, I gathered at the lobby with my other trekking mates; couples Carly (29) and Kieran (32) from UK, sisters Katie (30) and Mia (29) from Canada, and finally a military cum cop Nathan (36) from Australia. Our guide was Gzaldjian, aka John. We chatted while on our way to the airport. My heart sank when I found out that not only all my trekking mates were much younger than me, but they ran marathons as well. Gosh, definitely my fitness was of no match to them. I hope they wont get mad if I kept them waiting when doing the trek. While waiting for our flight, we had our breakfast and very soon, we made our way to the small aircraft which will fly us to Lukla. I had read lots of scary stories about the journey to Lukla, and how dangerous the airport was, as they claimed that their runaway was the shortest in the world. I ignored the negative thinking and tried to enjoy the beautiful Himalayan view from my window. It was indeed very beautiful. After 30minutes, the small 15 passengers aircraft made a pretty frightening landing at Lukla airport. It happened very fast and the next thing I knew, we were already exiting the aircraft.



World Most Dangerous Airport

It was a beautiful morning and the view at the airport was stunning. I wanna take pictures but the guards asked me to leave as there was another flight about to take off. 

All of us were so excited. We had tea at a cafe near our airport. A big thermos of tea cost Rs750 (RM30), bloody expensive, and this is only Lukla and we havent even start trekking yet. The cost will double or triple the higher we climb for the next days. We met PT, our second guide, and three porters who will carry our bags during the whole trip.


We started walking passing the small town of Lukla which lined shops, guest houses and a school. It was a fairly easy walk as there were more downs and only a few ups as Phakding, our destination for today lied at 2610m, where as Lukla at 2795m. Meaning that we were descending to a lower altitude, rather than going up. I cant help thinking how its going to be when I had to ascend this same way on our last day of trekking. We met many people from the opposite direction, all looked weary, and some were limping. I had no idea how my condition would be on the last day. I can only pray for the best.


Prayer inscription carved on the stone

The view was very green and the trek was shady as there were lots of trees along the way. We followed a lovely fast current green river which was surrounded by pine trees. It was so beautiful.



We stopped few times for toilet and lunch. I ordered rara noodle soup which I found out later was actually instant noodle.

Rs250 (RM10)

On the left is a school

We encountered two suspension bridges which were long and the guides had so much fun running and jumping on it to make the bridge swayed. I felt like a yoyo, bouncing on the bridge due to their ‘king kong’ act.


All along the way, I saw porters carrying all sorts of things in a big basket behind their backs. It was amazing to see their muscles due to their hard work for earning a living. Despite their muscular limbs, they were short in height, probably because of carrying heavy loads as early as 15 years old.


We reached Sunrise Lodge at Phakding at 1pm, after walking for 5 hours (inclusive of break). I took the opportunity to sleep and only woke up at 4pm. It felt really good. I exited my room to find my friends chatting at the lodge’s yard. It seemed that chatting will be our only entertainment during this trek as there is no internet and very seldom the lodge will switch on the TV.

Sunrise Lodge, Phakding
My dinner, Vege fried rice & potato, Rs400 (RM16)
DAY 2: 5th June 2014
Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazaar (3480m)
10.25km (7hrs) 
Tibet GH (2 nights)



I didnt get a quality sleep last nite. I woke up 4 times to go to the toilet as it was cold in the mountains especially after midnight. After packing up my things, I ate some bread in my room for breakfast. Outside food was actually not allowed, but things were crazily expensive up here, especially for my wallet. I can only afford to have tea at the dining room during breakfast. Then, it was time to trek again. 


We hv to wait for the convoy to pass
I cannot stress how deceiving day one was, because day two was almost nightmare! I can honestly say it was among the worst days I ever had for this trekking. Its just a mental and physical battle! The first 3 hours were moderate, with lots of ups and downs on the stinking trail filled with donkeys and yaks shit, and suspension bridges and general trails along Dush Koshi Valley and its amazing river. This first portion kept up with my general expectations of the trek, gradual ups with a few downs with moderate strenuation. The view was great with lots of greens, but the one amazed me most was the river and the porters!!!

Potato flowers
The 6 of us


There were lots of beautiful flowers along this trek too.





We had our lunch at one of the tea houses scattered along the trek. To save money, I ordered plain rice and vegetable soup, which was not in the menu, and drank my own water. Not only the soup was tasteless, but the cook was so stingy with the vege (when veges grew so well in the mountains!!). I only had a few of very thin slices of carrot, some leaves and cauliflower in the water + salt so-called soup. Then came the horror part. The meal costed me Rs600 (RM24). What a throat cutter!!!


Then came the second half. Through my internet reading, I had set my mind that its not going to be easy. That portion was 500 vertical meters up, and in my perspective it was all up, a very steep, never ending up at that! I get it, we’re going to Everest, but that was beyond what I had imagined, especially on the second day! I had not anticipated having a bad knee acting up already, anxiety and generally being overwhelmed, it all went very poorly. In hopes of reaching the end, every corner you turned, another dirt hill or steps would emerge. I had never realized how such a physical challenge can have such an emotional effect on a person. Thank god it was not in my personality to quit so fast. All my other friends were way in front of me. In the beginning, I tried to keep my pace with them, but later, I gave up. They were young and fast and my fitness was of no match. The good thing was, I wasnt too far behind them, only about 5 minutes, and for that I can smile.




Eventually, after about 7 hours of trekking, there it was, Namche Bazaar. We had to report at the check point police before proceeding to our lodge. I saw posters of missing trekkers @ climbers pasted on the walls.  



Too bad, there were even more stairs to get to our lodge. After climbing for another 20 minutes, I finally arrived at Tibet GH. What a relieved!!!


End of Day 2...sooo relieved to arrive the GH
After checking in, I straight away washed my dirty clothes. Shower will cost me Rs350 (RM16), so forget it. I used my baby wipes to clean myself. I had fried vege noodle for dinner. Thank god, this time it was good.

Rs345 (RM13.50)
DAY 3: 6th June 2014
Namche Bazaar (3480m) to View point (3860m)
4km up and down (3hrs)


I had a good night sleep as I made sure that I was wrapped warm enough. It was surprising to see how beautiful the view was when I looked from my window. When I arrived yesterday, the surrounding mountains were covered in thick clouds.

View from my room window
Its supposed to be our rest day today. However, after breakfast, we started our acclimatization trek to the view point. Its very important to climb up higher and then go down, as to acclimatize with the altitude so that yr body physiology system can adapt. The first half of the trek was a steep climb on steps. It was really steep that I was huffing and puffing heavily. It was cloudy and the wind was blowing strong. I felt very chilly.


I climbed slowly to get to the 2nd half of the trek. Finally we arrived at a flat ground. It was very beautiful and I was surrounded in clouds. I took a moment of myself, sitting further away from my friends and drank in the view.

Where is my Shah Rukh Khan?
We continued to the view point, but unfortunately we couldnt view Everest from here as it was covered in clouds. What a waste. Never mind, I’m going for it, anyway. so there will be other days. We rested here for a while and when all of us couldnt bear the strong wind and chill, we headed down.



The gurls....myself, Carly, Katie & Mia



How high u think u can jump on high altitude?
Overall trek for today was 4kms (400m ascend and descend), taking 3 hours to complete.
A football field in Namche
Isnt he amazing?
Once reached the GH, I tried to get some sleep, but couldnt. Same thing happen after lunch due to cold feet and bloating. My winter socks which costed me RM100 per pair were useless. Drinking cold water (as hot water was expensive) makes matters worse. In the end, I quit trying to sleep and took the opportunity to write my journal.

Vege fried rice, Rs345 (RM13.50)


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