AFRICAN RIDE: PART 3 - BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE & ZAMBIA

12^th Dec 2019: Katima Mulilo – Ngoma Bridge – Kasane (B8 – A33, 130 km)

I left the hostel at 8am. The security and his friend were nowhere in sight. I rode to Ngoma Bridge border post. The distance was 70 km. Exiting Namibia was very fast & easy. 10 mins and I'm done. Entering Botswana didnt take long too, about 20mins as Ngoma Bridge is a very quiet border. 

However, I was pissed off with the female customs officer who charged me way too much to bring my bike into Botswana. From my reading, I knew that I need to pay 110 Pula (Botswanan currency) + 50 Pula (insurance) for a double entry, which equals to USD17. But to my surprise, I was charged way too much by the officer. Since I knew how much is the correct fee, I argued politely with her, but she told me that the cheaper fee is only for African bikes, and not other country's bike. She sternly showed me the “take it or leave it” attitude. I was very disappointed but I had no choice. This is Africa. Its not uncommon of such a thing to happen in this part of the world.

She insisted that I pay in Pula but I only had USD with me at that time. She then gave me a very poor conversion rate which ended up I had to pay USD71 in total. Can you believe that? From USD17 to USD71!!!

Haihhh....Here, you have to expect the unexpected. What other choice do I have? The other nearest border is almost 1400km away. So, be patience and move on. The most important thing was I made it into the 3^rd country in my African ride.

I continued riding on a very deserted road for another 60 km to Kasane. I checked in at Thebe Safari Lodge, 125 Pula for tenting. FYI, the price in all the places where I stayed in Africa was counted per head, not per tent or per camp spot or per room.

After that, I rode to the town center to find a bank to change money. I had to wait almost one hour before I got my change. Then, I refueled my bike at a petrol station. I asked the pump attendant where can I find a cheaper price for a boat tour and he advised me to go to Chobe Safari Lodge. On my way to this place, I saw tour offices by the roadside and decided to check it out. I was very lucky to get a tour for 260 Pula, and it will start in 30 mins time. Just enough time for me to eat my packed lunch.

People come to Kasane to experience its safari and the infamous cruise along Chobe River. This town is situated in Chobe National Park and Kasane is the place where you can see water and land wildlife. The boat tour which I took was amazing. I was the only Asian on board. There were two other westerners, whilst the rest were local tourists. The boat was full by the time I was picked up, so the shaded seat was already taken. I had no choice but to sit at the frontest most seat without shade. It was a very hot day. Since I forgot to bring drinking water, I felt almost dehydrated. However, I managed to see some crocs, hippos, African water buffaloes, birds, baboons, deers and lots of antelopes during the 3 hours tour. The closest the boat get to a croc lazing on the grass was about 2 meters. It was really fun except that I felt a bit frustrated as I didnt see any elephant. I was told that you can see hundreds of elephants in this river, but I wonder where did the elephants go on that day?

The sun was setting by the time I reached my campsite. I hurriedly pitched my tent, prayed and had a really delicious Sharifah Foods Gam Biryani for dinner. Two thumbs up for this brand of instant food. No more Brahims for me from now on. This brand was sold at selected supermarkets or you may contact my friend, @sfwithsuzaila on Instagram.

I slept very well in the comfort of my Eiger air pillow and sleeping bag. I loved them so much.

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

13^th Dec 2019: Kasane  – Victoria Falls (A33 – Kazungula Road, 85 km)

I started a bit late as its going to be a short ride today. I rode about 11 km to Kazungula which is a very small town bordering Botswana with Zimbabwe and Zambia. Most overlanders will opt for the ferry ride from this border into Zambia, but its costly and not worth it if you only spend little time in the country. So I chose to enter ZIM instead. A decision which many against and advised me not to, due to corrupt authorities. Well, if you dont try, how would you know hows your luck going to be, right?

The road to Kazungula border was under construction, so it was potholes and sandy for approx 5 km.

Exiting Botswana was easy, so as entering ZIM. The ZIM immi officer is a biker, so he was happy to see a female advrider. I had to entertain his lots of questions until I became the center of attraction that even the tourists at the border took pics with me. It was a proud moment to tell all of them that I am from Malaysia :)

To bring my bike into ZIM, I had to pay USD31 for road fund and insurance which was exactly as my internet research said. (Zambia entry fee will be pricier). Carnet was not needed. Both borders were done in about 30 minutes only. No hassle at all. It was a very straightforward procedure which proved that all the nightmares crossing this border might be a thing of the past.

Then it was a quiet ride to Victoria Falls town. Its just me, and the jungle dwellers. Again, I noticed some giraffes, but only after the ‘trees’ moving. HAHAHA. The giraffes disguised very well in the trees. They were very fast too and I didnt get the chance to take any pic.

Upon arriving Victoria Falls town, I headed to Shoestring Backpackers which I had booked earlier. Its wise to book your accommodation beforehand since Victoria Falls is a very popular tourist spot. The fee for a 4 bedded dorm is USD15 p/p. At 3 pm, I rode to Zim – Zambia border. I parked my bike at the parking lot and stamped out my passport. Then I walked 2 km into Zambia. I stopped by at the famous Victoria Falls bridge to witness the falls. Only a bit of it could be seen from here.

After stamping my passport at the Zambia side, I went to the ticket office and purchased the ticket to enter the world heritage site. I was surprised to learn that the ticket was only USD20, not USD30 as my internet research had said. But very soon afterward, I knew why was that so.

I walked into the park and saw only a tiny fall. Where was the supposedly half a million-liter gushing water per minute? Where was the mist and rainbow as it should be? Nothing. Then only I found out that I came on the wrong season. Its dry season now. No wonder the entrance fee was only USD20. Haihhh... 

A mind note, the best time to come here is April – June.

After spending about an hour at the park, I walked the same way back into ZIM, being careful of the many aggressive big baboons scattered around the area. It was a very hot day, hence I felt very exhausted by the time I reached my hostel.