EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING, DAY 4 - 6

DAY 4: 7^th June 2014

Namche Bazaar (3480m) to Tengbochye (3860m)

9 km (6hrs) + monastery visit

Hotel Himalayan

I had diarrhoea twice this morning. Its not bcos of the food, but bcos of cold feet and my bloating tummy. For breakfast, I just had a cup of hot tea, afraid to eat anything due to the diarrhoea. My friend, Nathan didnt look very good. As a matter of fact, he already experienced AMS since Day 1 itself. But somehow, I admired his spirit. He fought his terrible headache and was always heading among the fastest in our group.

We started at 8.30am. The first 15 minutes were steep climb on steps, the same as yesterday. After that it was a gradual ‘Nepali flats’ on a narrow dirt trek, with crevasse on my right hand side. It was unfortunate as the views are meant to be incredible on this day but it was such a cold and foggy morning that I couldnt see anything. 

A monastery somewhere along the trek

For whatever reason, the poor weather and lengthy day had not bothered me at all.

The walk was very nice, until we reached 3700m, when after that it was down, down, down. Adoiiii!!! Two days of really hard work were wasted just like that!!! Reason for this was because there was no suspension bridge to connect the mountain we’re climbing, to the next mountain, so we had to go down the valley until 3200m, and then climbed up again. Haihhh, what to do. Redho jer la...but well, keep that until after lunch. I choose vege noodle soup for my lunch, but what was served for me was actually instant noodles.

Rs280 (RM11)

After lunch, the gruelling ascend began. It was up, up, up on a loose rocky trail. There were parts of dirt and sandy trek as well. Thank god that after 2 hours, we reached Tyengboche, our destination for today.

At 4pm, we went to the famous Buddhist monastery to witness the monks ritual prayer. It was a very surreal experience, until the horns started blowing. They started with their prayer songs and drumming and after that something like zikir using their prayer beads. Pics were not allowed in here.

Hotel Himalayan

Later, we gathered at the heated (thank god) dining room, waiting for our dinner. The heater was a traditional one (dont expect anything fancy up here). It was similar to what I had seen in Kyrgyzstan. The hotel staff put branches of sticks and dry animals shit inside a container with smoke chimney as fire source. It was nice to feel the heat and the warmth.

After dinner, we managed to get our first glimpse of the Everest. We rushed outside, braving the cold, to get a better view. It was so stunning, well, perhaps bcos I’m seeing it from here after climbing for 4 days, so the psychological effect contributed to how I felt at that time. While standing outside in the cold, then only I realized that we were higher than clouds!!!

 I was given extra blanket so I was not so freezing during the night. However, my bloating tummy disabled me to sleep, until it was already midnight.

DAY 5: 8^th June 2014

Tengbochye (3860m) to Dingboche (4350m)

8 km (7.30 hrs)

Sonam Friendship Lodge

I woke up at 4.30am for Subuh prayer and after that waited until 5am hoping to see any good view from the window, but there was none. I continued sleeping and at 6.15am, someone knocked on my door. I lazily shoved my sleeping bag and opened the door but there was no one. I got back to my bed and then only I noticed how heavenly the Everest view was seen from my window.

The red arrow is Everest peak. Now u see why it took 8 days to reach the Everest base. This magnificent mountain was located at the behind most of all the other mountains in front of it.
This was the reason why u hv to go up down, up down for many days to reach its base.

Ama Dablam, view from my room window

We started at 8.20am. Trekking from Tengbochye to Dingboche was for the most part, fairly calm. It was chilly, gloomy and foggy again, which always brought the mood down. The trekking day it self though was fairly easy (in comparison to previous days). The first 15 minutes was going downhill along a trail which looked like a scene in Harry Porter movie. Even with the fog, we were walking in the midst of the fully bloomed white and yellow rhododendron forest, which seemed so magical. According to the guide, there were 12 different colours of Himalayan rhododendrons, but at this time of the year, only two colours were left for me to feast my eyes.

Very soon after, the climbing on the dirt trek began, but it wasnt so bad. This time, we were walking alongside of Dush Koshi river. Now I realized how fast the current was. It really amazed me. The trek next to the river was very narrow with lots of loose gravels. I need to watch my steps. If I tripped and fall into the freezing river, that will be the end of me. 

A collapsed suspension bridge

The trek ascends and descends gradually, and there were pretty fair flats as well. We stopped for lunch at Pyangboche. It seemed as if we had to wait forever for our meals to be served. As we were now at higher level, cooking took longer time as lack of oxygen resulted in poor combustion.

4000m, yayyyyy

Rs380 (RM15)

After lunch, we ascended up, up, up and sometimes flat, following the fast current river which by now was far below. This was the day when we passed the tree line and the geological landscape completely changed. When starting the day, we were still surrounded by rhododendron forest and as we walked, and as the hours passed, the trees turned to bushes, and bushes into rock, and rock into dust. I was already huffing and puffing even on flat trail, not to mention when I had to climb!!! That was the point I came to realize that I was really heading towards the highest mountain in the world.

Honestly, I felt ashamed when comparing myself, with the porters. They each carried 25kgs load and yet, they were faster than me. They could even chat and sing while walking. I couldnt imagine how efficient was their respiratory system and how big was their left ventricle.

The porters

By now, the weather had improved by lots. The sun was shining, the sky was so blue and Everest could be seen very clearly. Even though tired, I captured the view as much as I could. Everest seemed to be calling my name and I eagerly carried my tired legs and moved forward excitedly while the rescue helicopter flew above of my head. I wonder who was the unlucky climber who had to be brought down?

Sooo near, but yet too far...

Allahuakbar, Allah the greatest creator!!!

It was always a relief to see where you are staying from a distance; light at the end of the tunnel. In this particular case, it was just rest that I strived for. After walking for 7.30hrs, we finally checked in at the lodge. The room was very basic, but its okey as Dingboche was a nice cushy 2 nights stay…and again, yayyy free day!

The small settlement of Dingboche in the background

The guide warned us not to take a short nap during the day to prevent from difficulties to fall asleep during the night. Bcos of that, we had to stay awake. It was soooo boring to wait until dinner, with no entertainment at all. My dinner of fried vege noodle (again) came in a big portion, but the noodle didnt taste fresh. After dinner and praying, I went straight to bed, but the freezing room didnt allow me to sleep as I kept repeating the toilet. I finally dozed off but woke up at 11.15pm feeling so sick in the stomach. I knew it, it must be the noodles. Thank god I managed to get back to sleep as the sleeping bag was heaven, but my sleep was filled with nightmares – a very common AMS indicator.

DAY 6: 9^th June 2014

Dingboche free day (4350m)

Hike to view point (4710m)

As per the previous day, Yayyy free day! And on this day…we awoke to clear skies and we saw MOUNTAINS! and not just any mountains, we were surrounded!  The day before, you wouldn’t even think there were any with all that fog! It was really the first day you came to realize how vast the Himalaya region really was. 

Despite it was a great time for a free day, I felt weak due to the many days of poor sleep. Free days during this trek didnt mean that u can just lazed around. There was another acclimatizing trek to a view point to be done today. My biggest issue with these free day treks is that they seem to be a road to nowhere. I get their purpose, and I understand that the view is great… but after days of trekking in the past, and days of trekking for the future, the motivation just isn’t there. I would have been happy relaxing, healing my knee, and mentally prepping for the upcoming days.

The women planting potatoes

Regardless, it was a beautiful day and the weather was lovely to begin with. Todays trek varies – rocky, sandy, dirt and sometimes grassy, but it was another tough trek all the way up. In the words of my fellow trekker, “this is F*@%ing hard!” That is no word of a lie, it really is. I got tired very easily. Even on flat ground, I was panting and catching my breath due to the low oxygen level. At times, I almost tripped due to exhaustion. MINTAK NYAWA!!! At certain places, we crossed the river where the bridge was actually made of rocks lined together. It was pretty dangerous as some of the rocks moved when I stepped on it.

Geng 6 Jahanam....hihihi...

Somehow, I managed to see some really beautiful yaks.

Thankfully the viewpoint was not too far, because at this point you started to get towards real altitude. I started to get the AMS signs – mild headache and puffing on my face. 

We managed to reach the tea house after trekking for 2.15 hrs. After a short break of nice hot tea, we made it down. My friends walked very fast. I tried to catch up, but no matter how fast I walked (and I was known as a fast walker), I was still behind them. I had to run in order to catch up. At one time, I almost fall after tripping over loose stones. Finally, after sprinting for 1.25hrs, we arrived the lodge.

Lunch was a tasteless vege fried rice. I cant even see the vege. It seemed that the higher we get, the price of food gets more expensive, and the taste sucks.

Rs450 (RM18)

After lunch, I tried to get some sleep, but only managed for 20mins. It was hard to sleep at high altitude. Then I joined the rest at the dining, watching Nathan made fancy animals with his balloons. He was very skillful and really entertained the kids. How they loved him for that.

Vege fried potato for dinner, Rs300 (RM12)

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING, DAY 1 - 3

I guess there are not many people out there who would combine riding a motorcycle and trekking @ mountain climbing in one journey, but well...I'm one of the very few who did :)

DAY 1: 4^th June 2014

Lukla (2795m) to Phakding (2610m)

6.4km (5hr Trek)

Sunrise Lodge

I woke up early morning, at 4am. After a quick shower, I gathered at the lobby with my other trekking mates; couples Carly (29) and Kieran (32) from UK, sisters Katie (30) and Mia (29) from Canada, and finally a military cum cop Nathan (36) from Australia. Our guide was Gzaldjian, aka John. We chatted while on our way to the airport. My heart sank when I found out that not only all my trekking mates were much younger than me, but they ran marathons as well. Gosh, definitely my fitness was of no match to them. I hope they wont get mad if I kept them waiting when doing the trek. While waiting for our flight, we had our breakfast and very soon, we made our way to the small aircraft which will fly us to Lukla. I had read lots of scary stories about the journey to Lukla, and how dangerous the airport was, as they claimed that their runaway was the shortest in the world. I ignored the negative thinking and tried to enjoy the beautiful Himalayan view from my window. It was indeed very beautiful. After 30minutes, the small 15 passengers aircraft made a pretty frightening landing at Lukla airport. It happened very fast and the next thing I knew, we were already exiting the aircraft.

World Most Dangerous Airport

It was a beautiful morning and the view at the airport was stunning. I wanna take pictures but the guards asked me to leave as there was another flight about to take off. 

All of us were so excited. We had tea at a cafe near our airport. A big thermos of tea cost Rs750 (RM30), bloody expensive, and this is only Lukla and we havent even start trekking yet. The cost will double or triple the higher we climb for the next days. We met PT, our second guide, and three porters who will carry our bags during the whole trip.

We started walking passing the small town of Lukla which lined shops, guest houses and a school. It was a fairly easy walk as there were more downs and only a few ups as Phakding, our destination for today lied at 2610m, where as Lukla at 2795m. Meaning that we were descending to a lower altitude, rather than going up. I cant help thinking how its going to be when I had to ascend this same way on our last day of trekking. We met many people from the opposite direction, all looked weary, and some were limping. I had no idea how my condition would be on the last day. I can only pray for the best.

Prayer inscription carved on the stone

The view was very green and the trek was shady as there were lots of trees along the way. We followed a lovely fast current green river which was surrounded by pine trees. It was so beautiful.

We stopped few times for toilet and lunch. I ordered rara noodle soup which I found out later was actually instant noodle.

Rs250 (RM10)

On the left is a school

We encountered two suspension bridges which were long and the guides had so much fun running and jumping on it to make the bridge swayed. I felt like a yoyo, bouncing on the bridge due to their ‘king kong’ act.

All along the way, I saw porters carrying all sorts of things in a big basket behind their backs. It was amazing to see their muscles due to their hard work for earning a living. Despite their muscular limbs, they were short in height, probably because of carrying heavy loads as early as 15 years old.

We reached Sunrise Lodge at Phakding at 1pm, after walking for 5 hours (inclusive of break). I took the opportunity to sleep and only woke up at 4pm. It felt really good. I exited my room to find my friends chatting at the lodge’s yard. It seemed that chatting will be our only entertainment during this trek as there is no internet and very seldom the lodge will switch on the TV.

Sunrise Lodge, Phakding

My dinner, Vege fried rice & potato, Rs400 (RM16)

DAY 2: 5^th June 2014

Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazaar (3480m)

10.25km (7hrs) 

Tibet GH (2 nights)

I didnt get a quality sleep last nite. I woke up 4 times to go to the toilet as it was cold in the mountains especially after midnight. After packing up my things, I ate some bread in my room for breakfast. Outside food was actually not allowed, but things were crazily expensive up here, especially for my wallet. I can only afford to have tea at the dining room during breakfast. Then, it was time to trek again. 

We hv to wait for the convoy to pass

I cannot stress how deceiving day one was, because day two was almost nightmare! I can honestly say it was among the worst days I ever had for this trekking. Its just a mental and physical battle! The first 3 hours were moderate, with lots of ups and downs on the stinking trail filled with donkeys and yaks shit, and suspension bridges and general trails along Dush Koshi Valley and its amazing river. This first portion kept up with my general expectations of the trek, gradual ups with a few downs with moderate strenuation. The view was great with lots of greens, but the one amazed me most was the river and the porters!!!

Potato flowers

The 6 of us

There were lots of beautiful flowers along this trek too.

We had our lunch at one of the tea houses scattered along the trek. To save money, I ordered plain rice and vegetable soup, which was not in the menu, and drank my own water. Not only the soup was tasteless, but the cook was so stingy with the vege (when veges grew so well in the mountains!!). I only had a few of very thin slices of carrot, some leaves and cauliflower in the water + salt so-called soup. Then came the horror part. The meal costed me Rs600 (RM24). What a throat cutter!!!

Then came the second half. Through my internet reading, I had set my mind that its not going to be easy. That portion was 500 vertical meters up, and in my perspective it was all up, a very steep, never ending up at that! I get it, we’re going to Everest, but that was beyond what I had imagined, especially on the second day! I had not anticipated having a bad knee acting up already, anxiety and generally being overwhelmed, it all went very poorly. In hopes of reaching the end, every corner you turned, another dirt hill or steps would emerge. I had never realized how such a physical challenge can have such an emotional effect on a person. Thank god it was not in my personality to quit so fast. All my other friends were way in front of me. In the beginning, I tried to keep my pace with them, but later, I gave up. They were young and fast and my fitness was of no match. The good thing was, I wasnt too far behind them, only about 5 minutes, and for that I can smile.

Eventually, after about 7 hours of trekking, there it was, Namche Bazaar. We had to report at the check point police before proceeding to our lodge. I saw posters of missing trekkers @ climbers pasted on the walls.  

Too bad, there were even more stairs to get to our lodge. After climbing for another 20 minutes, I finally arrived at Tibet GH. What a relieved!!!

End of Day 2...sooo relieved to arrive the GH

After checking in, I straight away washed my dirty clothes. Shower will cost me Rs350 (RM16), so forget it. I used my baby wipes to clean myself. I had fried vege noodle for dinner. Thank god, this time it was good.

Rs345 (RM13.50)

DAY 3: 6^th June 2014

Namche Bazaar (3480m) to View point (3860m)

4km up and down (3hrs)

I had a good night sleep as I made sure that I was wrapped warm enough. It was surprising to see how beautiful the view was when I looked from my window. When I arrived yesterday, the surrounding mountains were covered in thick clouds.

View from my room window

Its supposed to be our rest day today. However, after breakfast, we started our acclimatization trek to the view point. Its very important to climb up higher and then go down, as to acclimatize with the altitude so that yr body physiology system can adapt. The first half of the trek was a steep climb on steps. It was really steep that I was huffing and puffing heavily. It was cloudy and the wind was blowing strong. I felt very chilly.

I climbed slowly to get to the 2^nd half of the trek. Finally we arrived at a flat ground. It was very beautiful and I was surrounded in clouds. I took a moment of myself, sitting further away from my friends and drank in the view.

Where is my Shah Rukh Khan?

We continued to the view point, but unfortunately we couldnt view Everest from here as it was covered in clouds. What a waste. Never mind, I’m going for it, anyway. so there will be other days. We rested here for a while and when all of us couldnt bear the strong wind and chill, we headed down.

The gurls....myself, Carly, Katie & Mia

How high u think u can jump on high altitude?

Overall trek for today was 4kms (400m ascend and descend), taking 3 hours to complete.

A football field in Namche

Isnt he amazing?

Once reached the GH, I tried to get some sleep, but couldnt. Same thing happen after lunch due to cold feet and bloating. My winter socks which costed me RM100 per pair were useless. Drinking cold water (as hot water was expensive) makes matters worse. In the end, I quit trying to sleep and took the opportunity to write my journal.

Vege fried rice, Rs345 (RM13.50)