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Monday, 16 September 2013

PREPARATION

Many people asked me, “arent u afraid of doing a solo ride?” My answer was... “Imagine if u are going to sit for an important, really important examination. If u are well prepared for the exam.....if u hv done yr revision well.....if u hv memorized the important facts.....even though u hv no idea how difficult @ simple @ moderate the questions will be, and u hv no idea what kind of question that will be asked, u will enter the examination hall with lots of confidence.....knowing that u already stored the facts and information somewhere inside yr brain, waiting for the correct time and place to trash it all out. But if u are not well prepared, if u havent done yr reading and memorizing, u will start to sweat heavily and keep on visiting the toilet due to the high level of anxiety and the lack of confidence.”
So same goes here....I’m not saying that I am not afraid to ride solo. Of course the fear is there, but it was under control because I know what I’m doing.....and should things didnt go as planned, I already hv a Plan B, or even Plan C on what to do. Why? Bcos I hv done my research and preparation well. The key to this matter is  - do not be lazy. Do your homework. The infos is just beyond your fingertips. Never expect ppl to spoon feed u with all the infos. If you think that u don’t hv the time to read or u dont hv the effort to do research, then, just go with a two wheels tour, which is expensive of course.....but worry free as everything will be taken care for u. All u need to do is to ride the bike when the time comes, under the guidance of an expert guide. It is actually your choice – do it the hard way.....or do it the easy way.....Its as simple as that. 
So, how important is preparation? Does it really essential? Ever heard of a quote, “FAIL TO PLAN IS PLANNING TO FAIL?” Well, I am the type who really hold to this quote in everything that I do in life. I am on organized person and I will make sure that everything that can be control, will be controlled properly, as to minimize the risk and trouble when the ride has actually taken place. Besides, we never know whats going to happen when we are on the road (things which we cant control), so to me, its important to make sure that we did the best for the things that we can control. We are not talking about a santai ride to Hadyai or Krabi, but we are talking about a solo ride to the STANS COUNTRIES which differed in language, alphabet, culture, food, climate, temperature, road condition, geography etc, compared to our own country. These countries are unknown to many of us before, and its not too much to say that my solo ride and my choice of countries hv opened the eyes of many Malaysian bikers out there of where these countries are located and what kind of ‘paradise’ it has to offer.
I hv involved in independent travelling since the past 12 years, but never had I make a big preparation as how I prepared for my Central Asia ride. The closest perhaps is the preparation which I did for my solo Eastern Europe backpacking trip, involving 10 countries in 2010. It took me 6 months of intensive research to plan and do everything from A to Z for this ride. When I said intensive, it meant that minus my lecturing time, meal, pray and sleeping time, I will be in front of my lappy – googling, searching, reading, emailing etc for about 16 hours per day. Enough to say how maniac I am on internet, isnt it? LOL...
My preparation list can be divided into several categories:
ROUTE AND ITINERARY
Doesn’t matter what type of transportation u choose when travelling, no other preparation can be done if u r unsure of where to go, when to go, what to see and how to get there. Everything should start from this very important info which will lead to yr future preparation & arrangements. I did my research and posted in several travel forums to ask for infos on best places to go and which scenic road to take. After gathering enough infos, I made up my mind, plotted my route and drafted my itinerary. Believe me, when on the road, no itinerary is really final. I make lots of changes here and there before I finally come out with a ‘TENTATIVE ITINERARY’. Still, when on the go, I hv to make ammendments and adjustments when I failed to keep track with the itinerary due to the bad road condition and miscalculation of riding time.
CARGO
This is the most important thing in my check list as this will cost the most out of my budget. Since my riding duration is only about 1 month, I hv to start riding from the most convenient starting point. For that, I hv to check which airlines fly to my origin destination, and I need to know if the airlines provide cargo services. Once I hv the infos, I started to make calls (lots of them) to check on the freight charges and the procedure to fly my bike there. I also hv to check if I need to hire an agent to help with the bike’s clearance at the customs and to help with sending the bike for shipment once I am done with my ride.
VISA
Out of 5 countries that I am visiting, only one (Kyrgyzstan) does not require a Malaysian passport holder to get a visa beforehand. I hv to call the respective embassies to ask them about the visa requirement and fees. I hv to travel few times from Ipoh to KL to get all 4 visas sorted out. The most difficult to get is Uzbekistan visa. I only get it 3 days prior to my ride and if its not for the help from MFA, Malaysian Embassy in Tashkent and Palani from Uzbek Airways, I doubt if I am getting the visa after all. Many thanks to those who hv helped me. As for permit to enter specific region in the Pamir, I first asked the Msian Embassy in Tashkent to help me, but unfortunately they cant due to some restrictions.....I managed to get it myself at Tajik Embassy in Almaty though.


SUPPORT LETTERS
Since I am doing a solo ride, and since I am born a woman, safety is my top priority. For this, I engaged a bond with the highest officer in charge of the Central Asia countries at the MFA, and with the Malaysian Embassy in Tashkent, and I acknowledged them about my itinerary and my route. I also get advises from them on the do’s and dont’s and the MFA supplied me with support letters for me to show to the respective embassies in order to get their support letters. This is not an easy task. Lots of calls and visits hv to be made and I finally hv to make do with support letters fr Afghan, Kyrgyz and Kazakh embassies only. As for Uzbek, I get a support letter fr our embassy in Tashkent. None from Tajik embassy though as they said that they never practised this. It was proven that during my ride, the support letters hv helped me in many situations and I am so glad that I took the trouble to get them. I also reported to the Malaysian Embassy in Tashkent upon my arrival, and I let them know about my riding progress and my where about during my ride. This is very important for them to track me should I go missing by any chance. 
 

FLIGHT TICKET
I must say that I am an expert when it comes to finding cheap flights. I master this skill by doing lots of reading and trying out purchasing the ticket myself during my previous backpacking trips. As for this ride, I purchased the ticket few months in advance after comparing prices via several different online agents.
MAPS, GUIDE BOOK & GPS
I bought a non-laminated Central Asia map (later I laminate it myself) and Central Asia Lonely Planet book at Kino book shop. I also printed out maps from the internet. As for the digital map, I hv it installed in my GPS from the place which I bought the device.

 
OTHER DEVICES
I bought a multi-functional watch which reads not just the time, but temperature, baromatic pressure, altitude, weather forecast and compass. I also bought a plastic inner which to be wore inside my sleeping bag and acted as sauna to add and preserve heat. As for cameras, I bought a Hero 3 Silver Gopro camera, and I used another two which are Canon digital and the camera from my Samsung Note II mobile phone. I also carry with me a netbook and a light weight mini tripod to help with the self timer pics and videos.


LANGUAGE AND ALPHABET
Planning to go to countries where English is not spoken and the alphabet is not the Roman type that we are used to, making it very essential for one to master the basic phrases and to learn the alphabet. I get my Russian friend to suggest me the best and easiest way to learn and it took me about 1 week to memorize the funny alphabet.
CAMPING GEARS
I get my stuff from an outdoor shop in KL. I brought along a single occupant light weight tent, a sleeping mat, Deuter sleeping bag, a solar lamp, a small portable stove, simple cutleries, small pots, a mini thermos, cooking wax (which I used most as I cant find gas canister in the respective countries which can fit my stove) and a small packet of sulphur. I brought two elastic strings with hooks to strap my camping gears (which I stored in a waterproof sack) on the pillion seat. I also brought some canned food, instant noodles and instant beverages from Malaysia.
PROPER ATTIRE
Riding on an altitude above 3500m is not something which we can take for granted. As weather can change dramatically, it is very important to make sure that I am kept dry and warm at all times. My sifu, Hadi Hussein is very concerned about this. He helped to buy a four seasons riding jacket and gloves for me. He also lent me his chest wind protector and a winter buff. As for my riding pants, I wore the one that I got from Givi. I also brought along another pair of Givi gloves as spare. I wore my used Daytona Goretex riding boots and brought along 3 pieces of T-shirt from dry-fit material. Long wool socks is also very important to keep my feet warm especially when in the mountains.


MEDICINES & VACCINATIONS
Speaking about medicines, as my ride will undergo 13 mountain passes ranging from 2200m – 4655m, I must be prepared with AMS tablet as AMS is very common to happen on high altitudes. I also brought with me fever & flu tablets, oral rehydration salts, a small bottle of ‘minyak cap kapak’, and heat & cold rashes cream. 2 weeks prior to departure, I took a flu and Hep A & B combi vaccines.
SPONSORSHIP PAPER WORK
As I am new to this, preparing sponsorship paper work is something which I find quite difficult and challenging. Being a perfectionist, I want my paper work to be the best and convincing. I asked for help and samples from some senior friends, but unfortunately they are not willing to share theirs. Never mind. God gv me brain,  so, I figured it out myself. By checking the net, I finally came out with my paper work and I send it to about 25 companies and ministries. I followed up regularly and in the end, only 3 agreed to sponsor me. They are Givi (riding gears), Yamaha Hong Leong (spare parts for my bike) and Yayasan Perak (some cash money). The rest either didn't bother to reply or replied with apologies for not being able to contribute. I understand that apart from financial issues, people are sceptical and not confident with my ability, as I am not only a newbie, but also a woman. I wished to proof them wrong. I also get sponsorship for my offcial T-Shirt from a biker friend, Nuri, and my mechanic refused to accept the payment for his work on the bike. I want to thank all my sponsors for all the support and for believing in me.
 

Sponsored items from Givi.....thanks :)
Some of the spare parts sponsored by
Yamaha Hong Leong.....thanks :)

INSURANCE

The most reliable for me for such a trip is Chartis. I got myself covered for all the countries that I’m riding to, and for the duration that I will be away.
TOOLS & SPARES
I brought along my basic tool box, with additional electric air pump, an air pressure indicator, clutch and brake levers, a bulb, bearing, a bottle of engine oil, an oil filter and a chain spray. I didnt bring too many spares as my ride will only cover 6000+kms, and since I hv made a thorough checking and changing some parts before the ride. Besides, I must also be careful on how much weight that I am carrying. I also carry with me a fuel canister to accommodate with the lack of petrol station in the Pamir.


BIKE PREP
This is the thing which I hv to delay until the very last minute. Why? Bcos of the Uzbek visa which was at hold until almost to the day that I am leaving. Bike prep costs me quite some money, so there is no point to work on the bike if I can’t proceed with my ride due to failure in getting the visa. Once Uzbek Embassy said that my visa is through, my mechanic Faiesal, had to rush to get all the things needed and starts working on my bike. Among the work that he did was:
Ported and polished head
Valve clearance intake 0.10 exhaust 0.16
Clutch: 5 pcs with hard spring
Sproket: 15/44
Ream: Front 2.50 x 17; Rear 3.50 x 17
Tyre: Front 80/90 tubeless Dunlop TT100; Rear 120/70 tubeless Pirelli MT60  
Dunlop TT100 tyre is a tubeless tyre, but since the size is smaller than the front ream and it can't be fitted without using a tube, so my mechanic decided to use swallow trye tube. To prevent leak, he injected slime liquid into both tyres.
Engine oil: Motul 5100
Accessory: Fixing bottle holder; a two 6 mm holes to attach a flag holder at the rear box
A minor repair has also been done to the wiring system.
 
Faiesal working on DREAM at his workshop:
IRHB Motorsport, 30 Jln Meru Perdana 2, Tmn Meru Perdana, Ipoh.
016-5579904
It was proven that Faiesal had done a great job as my bike didn’t suffer any puncture or major problem through out the ride. I wished to thank him, and also my sifu, Hadi for the advises given to me to ensure the bike is in great condition.
CALENDAR MEMENTO
The first time when I plan for this ride, my objective is not merely to satisfy my hunger on adventure riding and to appreciate the beauty of mother earth only, but also to help as much as I can to promote and introduce my country to the people of Central Asia. So, I came out with the idea of a 2013 & 2014 memento calendar which hv some beautiful pics of the attractions in Malaysia. I purposely chose to write the introduction of Malaysia in Russian alphabet and language so that the people can understand, and hopefully this will attract them to visit my country. I brought along 250 pieces of these calendars and distributed it to the locals whom I met on the road.
EVACUATION PLAN
Travelling to the Central Asia countries came with risks such as political unrest and disaster, namely avalanche, landslides, earth quakes etc.  I have to prepare myself with evacuation plan should unwanted things jeopardize my ride. For this, I hv someone who hv access to critical situations support to help me should I need to evacuate as soon as possible.
OTHER INFOS
I research for infos on how to do border crossings, procedures and payment to bring my motorbike into the country, latest road condition, mountain passes, speed limit and fuel price in each country, fuel type, petrol station locator, money changers, cheap places to stay (in bigger towns), mechanics and periodical maintenance, and the list goes on and on and on.....
MONEY @ CURRENCY
 
Last but not least is money. How much money must one take? What kind of currency? Answer for question #1 depends on what kind of traveller you are. Answer for question #2 depends on the country you are going to visit. As for me, since I am a budget traveller, my expenses while on the road is not that much. This is because I stayed at cheap homestays @ guest house or I camped. I also cooked my own meals to save  the cost. For this trip, before leaving home, I checked the XE to know what is the latest currency conversion for all 5 countries that I am going to visit. They are Uzbek Som, Kazakh Tenge, Kyrgyz Som, Tajik Somani and Afghan Afghani. I hv made my research and I knew that USD is more acceptable in these countries compared to Euro. Since it is difficult (if not impossible) to find an ATM (except in major cities), I decided to bring all the money that I need for the whole trip.

Sifu said...."Split yr money into 4 different places, so that
if u lost or someone steal yr money, u wont loose them all"
These are among the preps that I did before the ride. Preparation has its own challenges. It keeps my brain working, it keeps me occupied that I never feel that my life is dull.....it taught me to be patient, to work systematically, to accept what God had decide for me and many other things which I cant list here. Most importantly, it gv me the strength and confidence to do this ride alone in the unknown land of the Stans. Apart from the Lonely Planet book which I read countless of times, I read thoroughly not less than 50 blogs and I picked 7 of them to be my major source. Youtube is also my main source to check on things.
Some ppl might think that I am over preparing myself.....but before even saying it, plz bear in mind that I am a WOMAN, I am riding SOLO, my time is LIMITED and my days are NUMBERED. Only  a well preparation can ensure a smooth and safe journey for a lone rider as me. I am proud to say that apart from the technical part, I did every single thing that I mentioned above on my own. Its a one-woman-show. I dont hv a team to help me to manage things. Its tiring.....its frustrating (at times).....its challenging.....but to me this is the most exciting part :)

Tuesday, 10 September 2013

BLAME IT ON THEM

It has been a looongggg time that my blog had been in a total silence. Well, I hv three very good reasons for it. First, I hv been away for a ‘once in a life time’ dream, that is conquering the Central Asia ‘Stans’ countries on my motorbike – solo as usual. Second, after coming back, I hv been extremely busy with job, fasting month, Eid, attending interviews, invitations, preparing for the big event of my life....and the list goes on.  Third, I am now working on my book regarding my recent ride to the Central Asia.

Since too many ppl had been asking me to write a bit (at least) about my Central Asia ride, I hv decided to take some time to update this blog. However, the info will be basic, as the main purpose is to help fellow traveller, especially adventure riders and overlanders with infos regarding the road condition of the route which I hv taken. Full and detailed story regarding my ride will be told in my maiden book, which I am currently working on.
Anyway, today will be a long post. I am not going to write about my ride (keep that for tmrw), but I am going to write about two most important people who hv significantly changed my life. They are – Zahariz Khuzaimah, the Malaysian Nomad, the person who triggered the inspiration in me to do what I am doing; and the other one is my sifu and mentor Hadi Hussein IAMALAYSIAN. I hv wrote a brief story about them in this blog, in a post titled INTRODUCTION, but today I am going to write more.

ZAHARIZ KHUZAIMAH
I was introduced to Zahariz’s blog by someone who happened to know that I am an avid backpacker. This someone truly recommends me to read Zahariz’s blog to see how ‘crazy’ this Malay guy is. So, I did just that and it took me one looonggg full day (and night) to read all his posts from the very beginning, right till the end. I became so fascinated with Zahariz’s cycling and nomadic experiences and was at awe looking at the jaw dropping beautiful pics that he captured. I never knew that someone could be as brave and as crazy as him, especially for Malays!!! His story became an inspiration to me that after letting out one big sigh of satisfaction when I’m finally done reading his last post (saying that he’s back home and still in the same room with the air condition not working), I decided to leave him a comment. This is what I wrote to him:

>>“…..Even the smallest things. Cycling under the hot sun and climbing hills everyday during my schooldays, problems that i encounter and many more things that ive done and experienced, happened for a reason. and now everything seems clear, i started to realized that those things happen because god is preparing me to undertake this tough journey….”
How true !!! I can’t agree more….Same goes for me here….all the hardness that I’ve to endure during my childhood & all the challenges that I had faced thru out my life makes me what I am today….Even though not as daring as u….but somehow, I might be the very few Malay women who dared to backpack alone......... I am done reading yr blog…..setinggi2 tabik spring to you….siapa kata melayu tak boleh kan?
He never reply to my comment...

However, 6 months later, that is in October 2011, I received a friend request from Zahariz in Facebook. What? Zahariz Khuzaimah wants to add me? Am I dreaming? Without hesitating, I punched the accept button. The very first time I saw him online on FB, I asked him about the places he had been to, especially the beautiful pristine blue lake of Issykul, and the turquoise green river which had made me fall in love with Kyrgyzstan. Being a backpacker, the most important info that I need to know is how to get to the place. Zahariz told me that those places were remote (then) and I need to hv own transport to reach the place. Oh nooo....its going to be very costly to hire a car and driver, especially that I normally travel alone, so is there any other alternative? Zahariz told me to cycle, just like him. Cycling? Are u mad? How long will it take for me to cycle there? I would hv to quit my job then, not to mention whether I am fit enough and my bones and joints are strong enough to take the challenge at this age. Zahariz then asked me, “why don’t you ride a motorbike....u know....like Hadi Hussein, the one who rode solo all the way from KL to London on his kapchai?”  Whattt??? Serious??? A Malay guy can be that brave and crazy??? Through my knowledge, only western people and some from Japan and China hv this type of craziness in them, but Malays? Hardly so. Zahariz gv me the link to Hadi Hussein’s Facebook and asked me to add him to hear his stories. I said, ok, I will do that.
As for Zahariz, every other time I saw him online, I will chat with him and we enjoyed our conversations very much. Even though we are only communicating via the virtual space, I regard myself as a sister to him, and he as my brother. It was really an honour to me when he always showed his video work for me to comment before he actually posts it in the internet. It was only in May this year, 3 days prior to my Central Asia ride, that I managed to finally meet him personally. He was at that time, just returned to Malaysia after almost a year cycling to Iceland, Scotland, Norway and Sweden. To read more about his journey, plz visit http://zahariz.wordpress.com/


HADI HUSSEIN

If any Malaysian biker who is into touring said that he/she does not know who this guy is, then he/ she must be joking. Hadi Hussein, as his blog reads, is a graduate from Instituto per Gli Studi Di Politica Internazionale (ISPI) in Milan, Italy with Advance Diploma in Management of Humanitarian Intervention. He is also a graduate from Aviation Career Academy in Lakeland, Florida, USA with a Diploma in Aeronautical Study. Being involved in the humanitarian field, he has been posted to several countries including the Middle East and most of Asian countries. He experienced hostage situation, attended several humanitarian courses including Emergency & Post-Conflict Internal Displacement, Camp Coordination and Protection Training in Geneva, Swiss Development Cooperation Security Field Simulation Exercise, Essentials of Humanitarian Negotiation in Sri Lanka, Advance Security in the Field, Humanitarian Logistics, Homebuild Aircraft & Club Management in USA and Crew Resource Management. His experience regarding humanitarian and disaster are beyond words, thus makes him a very tough person in any given situation.
In adventure riding, Hadi’s biggest achievements are KL – London (2010), and Equator Challenge (2012). He is now busy preparing for his Sahara Challenge, which will be due in a month or so. He regards this challenge as an unsure whether he will come back alive or not (I can feel shivers running down my spine upon hearing this). I wish him good luck and I will pray for his success.

Back to the story, after being introduced by Zahariz, I started to read Hadi’s blog http://iamalaysian.com/ from the very beginning, until the very end. Again, I was amazed at how ppl can do unimaginable things to live their dreams. As Zahariz, Hadi’s stories inspired me by lots and I became his friend in FB since October 2011. I tried to arrange a meeting with him, but it always ended up being cancelled last minute. It was one fine day in April 2012, that god decided to meet us both, and it took place at NZ Curry House (after I just finished watching Bunohan movie at KLCC with Dilla Hussein (Faizal Hussein – the actor’s sister) and my ex vocalist, Rose). My first impression when I met him was.....wowww....tall and handsome. He was very friendly and nice. I can’t help laughing when recalling how naive I was when I told him that I want to learn how to become an adventure rider from him, when the truth is not only I don’t own a motorbike.....I don’t hv a license....and I don’t even know how to ride a motorbike. He must hv been laughing inside his heart.
Anyway, it was his adventure and humanitarian stories which makes me almost drooling for 4 hours, instead of 1 hour that he had allocated for me in the beginning. He told me to learn to ride a motorbike first before planning on anything big. I took his words, and I met him 2 weeks later with a brand new Yamaha FZ150 which I just bought, with a big L sticker pasted in front of the bike. Actually, I had just learned to ride 5 days previously, when I braved myself and rode the bike all the way from Ipoh to Klang to meet him for the 2nd time. I can still remember how loud I screamed when the lorries overtook me on the highway, as I was only riding at 60 – 70kmh due to the bike's confinement period. To cut the story short, we agreed to go for a 22 days introduction Indochina ride on which he will be my sifu and I am his student. Before we started, he taught me how to do plotting, how to read the map, how to use the GPS, how to check location by looking at the sun, some bike maintenance skill, how to lift up the bike if I drop it, how to choose the correct riding gears and many more.

Finally, we set off on May 26, 2012. Lots of things happened during the ride. I did things which I never imagined that I have the nerve to do. (Stories can be read in this blog, May, June & July 2012 postings). Honestly, in the beginning, I felt that he’s being too strict on me. I was a newbie. I can’t even handle the bike properly...but he has taken me to the tough road of the Thousand Corners in Thailand, to the mountains in Laos, up to the Laos – China border and Laos – Vietnam border, down to the madness and chaotic Phnom Penh streets, heading east to the crazy Bangkok’s suburb traffics, and back to Malaysia. During the chores, I experienced 1 serious bike fall, and encountered 2 bridges failure in Laos which forced me to cross the river with a sampan and a raft. God knows how I felt. I was also instructed to navigate and lead the way (starting on the 2nd day in Thailand), to find the accommodation myself, to look for suitable place to dine, to find the way to attractions, and many more. There were times that Hadi asked me to go first and find certain attration myself, and he will meet me there later. I felt like a participant in Amazing Race. Through out the 22 days 'hell' ride for me, we only had 2 days rest. The other days, we were on the bike for 10 – 13 hrs every day. At that time, I don’t understand his training method and intention. I was tensed. I was tired. I want to go home. However, in all difficulties, I managed to finish the ride and returned home safely.  
Well, what did I learn from Hadi’s way of teaching? Apart from what I hv listed above, I learned how to navigate the road without the GPS (GPS was broken when my bike fell).....I learned how to estimate my fuel consumption by checking the kms covered (odometer was broken due to the fall).....I learned how to find my way in darkness of the mountain road in Laos when we still didnt reach the destination when night already falls.....I learned what to do when I get lost.....and most important thing.....I learned to fight my fear and survived in the hardest condition.....
These are the things which u can never find in any guide or handbook. These are the things which u can only learn by actually ride with the expert.....not from conversation with others who had been there, not via chatting, not through phone calls.....

My Central Asia ride had seen me riding on the worst terrain that one can ever imagine. It was among the most dangerous roads in the world. Should Hadi didn’t train me the hardest way, I doubt if I can accomplish my mission. Should Hadi only brought me to ride on nice paved road during the introduction Indochina ride, I doubt if I can tackle the crazy mountain passes in Kyrgyz and Tajik. Should Hadi didn’t challenge me to face my fear, I wonder if I can face the fear of being alone and helpless in the mountains. Should Hadi didn’t put me in tense situations, but being lenient to me, I hv no idea if I can survive doing solo rides. Should Hadi didn't train me well, can I be what I am now? And can I conquer the Central Asia solo on a motorbike?
Well, reality is....the Central Asia solo ride was done, and it was very successful.....

Hadi, you are the best sifu that I will ever have in my whole life....A million thanks is not enough to express my gratitude for the knowledge and experiences that I gained during my ride with you. Whatever achievements and praises that I’m getting now, it all started from the training that u had given me.....and for that, I will be forever grateful.....   

ZAHARIZ & HADI HUSSEIN....YOU ARE BOTH MY INSPIRATION....YOU SHOULD BE PROUD THAT YOU HV INSPIRED A ZERO-IN-BIKING-ME TO DO IMPOSSIBLE THINGS.....YOU BOTH ARE TO BE BLAME FOR MAKING ME WHAT I AM TODAY.....YOU BOTH HAVE CHANGED MY LIFE.....
I THANK YOU BOTH VERY MUCH.....

Yours Sincerely,
Anita Yusof

Monday, 4 March 2013

"I LOVE THAILAND & LAOS" RIDE...BEEN THERE, DONE THAT...ALHAMDULILLAH...


A partly repeat and partly new route to Thailand and Laos which seen me riding to North Thailand (again) until the Thai - Myanmar border, to the east entering Laos until the Laos China border, going up and down the mountains to Luang Prabang until Vientiane, re enter Thailand, and back to home sweet home. A journey of 10 exciting days with lots of new things observed and new experiences gained...new mistakes done and new lessons learnt...Something which you will never find nor see nor learn if you travel via an organized tour. Thank you Allah for giving me the opportunity, not only to witness this beautiful world of Yours, but also to experience the lives of other mankind....
I am truly blessed...

Sunday, 3 March 2013

"I LOVE THAILAND & LAOS" RIDE - DAY 10

15TH FEB 2013: SURAT THANI – THUNG SONG – HAT YAI – DANNOK – BUKIT KAYU HITAM – JURU – IPOH (680KMS) 

I started early today, at 6.45am. I hv plotted my route in the GPS, so I didnt face any problem to exit Surat town and find my way to route 44 which was a nice highway and very deserted. I turned left at the intersection to route 41 and rode straight down to Thung Song. It rained this morning for the first time since I started my ride. The road condition was quite bad before and after Thung Song. I was craving for sticky rice with red fried chicken but I told myself to hang on until Hat Yai. Unfortunately I couldnt find any until I reached the border. Since I’m hungry, I had a yummy somtam at a Muslim stall before crossing the border. 

Buying honey pineapple at Patthalung





Border crossing was smooth. I called sis Azliena and arrange to meet her at Juru. She waited for me at the R n R and took me to Coffee Bean. This is the first time I met this legend lady. She was the first Malaysian lady biker to ride her motorbike in China, up until Kunming. At first, I thought that I will only spend about 1 hour with her, but we ended up chatting for more than 2 hours. It was already 7pm by the time I continued my ride. I stopped at Bukit Gantang for prayer and arrived home safely around 9.15pm. Alhamdulillah... 



Again, I have had the best moment riding Thailand and Laos alone. The precious experience that I gained during this ride were beyond words. I know that I am going to miss Laos very much. I hope that I can ride there again soon and explore her beauty and what she has to offer. 

Thank you Allah the Almighty for giving me the chance to see Your beautiful creations, for protecting me from any danger thru out my ride, for giving me a small test and helping me to find a way to solve it, and for making me a much stronger person and wiser (from the test) in dealing with the problems.

"I LOVE THAILAND & LAOS" RIDE - DAY 9

14TH FEB 2013: AYUTHAYA – NAKHON PATHOM – RATCHABURI – PETCHABURI – PARACHUAP KHIRI KHAN – CHUMPHON – SURAT THANI (850KMS) 

I was sooo sleepy that I almost missed Ayuthaya station when the train arrived. I was sooo groggy that I had to ask a western girl on the train to help me carry my stuff down. As in Nong Khai, here also I didnt hv to pay for the service to lift DREAM up / down the train (unlike in Hatyai). Surprisingly, the train was delayed for less than an hour only, so since it was still dark (about 5am), I waited at the station for a while. I made my move around 5.45am and the first thing was to find a petrol station. I checked my GPS and headed to one, only to see that it was still closed. Getting worried since I know that DREAM wont last very long now, I rode slowly hoping to find a petrol station open at such an early hour. Fortunately I found one. What a relief. DREAM had succeeded a distance of 430kms before I refuel him. He’s such a darling. 

I rode on route 3262 – 340 – 346 – 321 – 4 – 41 all the way to Surat Thani. Nothing much to report about today’s ride. The road condition was good for Thai standard. Beginning from Parachuap, I saw few groups of Malaysian bikes convoying to Pattaya to attend Burapa Bike Week. I encountered at least seven road blocks today. I first targetted Thung Song as my destination, but since it was already 5pm and I am tired (due to the long ride and the lack of sleep on the train), I made up my mind to stop at Surat Thani instead. 





I met a Malaysian biker before entering Surat Thani. He was riding alone. We stopped for a drink by the road side. He told me that he was coming from Laos (Pakxe) and Cambodia. He was surprised when I told him that I was coming from Laos too, and that I am all alone. We exchanged phone numbers. I rode on to Surat Thani centre but my GPS directed me via kampong road so I have to go round and round until I was stucked at a bridge under construction. I asked a local, and he pointed me the way to a subsitute bridge (only for motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians). I crossed the bridge and made my way to the town, trying to find a GH. During my previous stay at Surat, I stayed at a GH along the highway and I didnt enter the town. The GH listed in my GPS was no longer operating, so I asked a local to help me find a cheap accomodation. I found one, Surat GH for B300 with wifi. That night, I went to a muslim restaurant which I hv spotted earlier to hv dinner, unfortunately the owner said that they are closing, and told me that I can find some Muslim stalls near the river. I found it and had a nice pad thai for dinner. 




The food court near the river / market

I went for a short sightseeing along the river to enjoy the colourful lights before heading back to the GH.



"I LOVE THAILAND & LAOS" RIDE - DAY 8

 13TH FEB 2013: VANG VIENG – VIENTIANE – NONG KHAI (200KMS) 



I woke up around 5.30am. The electricity has recovered. The first thing I did was to search for the pouch. I checked my backpack, searched under the bed, inside my jacket and everywhere, but I couldnt find it. Perhaps it’s in my panniers. I performed subuh prayer first and after that checked the panniers. The pouch was not there either. My heart sank. I started to curse myself for forgetting to activate my ATM (visaplus) and my credit card before I started the ride. I normally activate the cards before I started my travel, but this time I forgot. 



I tried to recall when was the last time I see the pouch. If memory served me well, I remembered that the last time I held the pouch was before I had my shower yesterday morning, at the GH in Luang Prabang. I remembered that I first put the pouch on the TV table, but I hesitated (since the table was black in colour, and so was the pouch). I’m afraid I might not see it later, so I took the pouch and put it on the floor, next to my backpack. Then I had my shower. I cant recall putting the pouch back in my backpack. Perhaps I might hv mistakenly leave it in the room? (But very strange since I always practised checking my room thoroughly before checking out). Perhaps Allah had blinded my vision from seeing it bcos someone else need the money more than me? Or perhaps someone entered my room in Vang Vieng when I went out to the reception (only for a while) to ask for the wifi password? For god’s sake, I hv no idea  and I dont hv the answer. 



What should I do now? I am thousands of miles away from home, and I have only Kips which were equivalent to RM75. If I’m not with DREAM, I can always purchased a flight ticket online using my credit card and fly back home. But now, I am with DREAM. I cant leave him behind. We came together, and we’ll go home together. What must I do? WHAT MUST I DO? 



Okey, now is not the time to panic, Anita....calm down....you know that you cant think straight in a tense situation. Relax, take a deep breath, smile, listen to your favourite song, eat yr breakfast, and after that think of a solution. 

So, I did just that, and I updated my status in FB, only to realize how many friends were sooo concern about me. Bro Seow, sis Azliena Baharin and my sister Are Nim even inbox me offering to gv me money. I thanked them for their kindness. Its not that I dont hv any money at all. I do hv money in my savings, but I couldnt withdraw the money as I didnt activate my card. That was my biggest mistake. 

Anyway, I packed my things and before checking out, I spoke to the Lao girl (the gf to the GH owner) about the missing pouch and money. She helped me to call Sysomphone GH and asked them about it. They said their cleaners didnt mention anything about finding anything left by the guest, but they promised to check with their cleaners again about it. I left my number to the girl and checked out. First, I try to find an IDD shop where I can make an overseas call. I found one and make a call. The bank officer (as always) asked too many security questions that I cant help shouting at him, telling him that I am in an undevelop country (Laos) and I hv lost my money....I hv only RM75 left and if he’s so keen to know about me, do it once I’m back in Malaysia and he can ask as many security questions as he liked. If he’s forever asking me questions, I might ends up finishing all the RM75 to pay for the call without him able to activate my card, so stop asking too much and activate my card RIGHT NOW!!! That put him on act instantly. After that, I try to find an ATM machine which has visaplus, but since Vang Vieng is a very small town, there wasnt any that I could find. 

I checked my fuel and made some calculations. I last refuel yesterday at Luang Prabang, and I had rode 226kms. Through my experience, if I rode DREAM slowly, he can manage up to 400kms before his tank dry up. Vientiane is 160kms away, meaning that I can arrive (hopefully) without the need to refuel. So I gambled and rode on, riding 75kmh maximum speed. The road was still winding but no climbing. Certain parts were under construction, so I cant speed anyway. The view was quite nice too. 



The farming vehicle most dominant in Laos 

With the slow ride, I only managed to reach Vientiane after 3 hours of riding. Surprisingly, DREAM still had a quarter tank of fuel left. I found an ATM machine with visaplus, and try to withdraw some money. Once my ATM card entered the slot, the machine suddenly stopped responding. I waited for about 30 seconds and when instinct told me that this is not good, I punched the cancel button repeatedly. Thank god the ATM machine didnt swallow my card and I got it back. Since I still hv some fuel left, I made up my mind that I will only withdraw money from an ATM machine in Thailand. I am very confident that the fuel can last until Nong Khai (the border town in Thailand). 

I went for sightseeing in Vientiane such as visiting Patuxay, the Malaysian Embassy (but I didnt enter as I think I can manage my own problem), Wat Chedi Luang, the Mekong Promenade and the President Palace. 


Patuxay






Wat Chedi Luang

The Presidents Palace
Malaysian Embassy in Vientiane
Mekong Promenade
Independant Monument

Then I made my way to the border, stopping first at a money changer to change my remaining kips to Baht. It was about 20kms to the border and I rode slowly. I was quite confused in the beginning on where to find the customs office but I found it after asking a policeman. There were many people from both countries (Laos and Thailand) making the crossing, however I managed to settle my exit smoothly even though this border was new to me. I rode on the Friendship Bridge, and upon entering Thailand, I hv to ride on the left side again (feeling funny after I hv adapted to riding on the right side). Entering Thailand via Nong Khai was smooth as well. I hv to pay B200 to bring DREAM in. The immigration and custom officers spoke good English. 



Once everything settled, I headed straight to the train station. I hv planned to take a train from Nong Khai to Ayuthaya, as I hv rode route 12 twice during my earlier part of this trip, so I dont want to waste time to repeat and ride on the same road again for the 3rd time. Nong Khai train station has changed so much since the last time I took a train here (heading to Bangkok in 2007). The train officer can speak understandable English and after checking on the price to transport DREAM on the train, I went out to find an ATM machine with visaplus. Thank god I managed to withdraw some money this time. 


I went back to the train station, settled the payment for DREAM and my ticket (B1400) and just relaxed at the station, enjoying the free wifi. I didnt refuel DREAM here as he still had a little fuel left in his tank. The train departed at 6.20pm sharp. I couldnt get a peaceful sleep bcos of the very annoying noises from the food seller  every time the train stops at a station.


NASTIA

Band: NASTIA, Title: ANGGUR (taken from EP 'EKSPRESI')
HAK CIPTA ANITA YUSOF